Need Advice on Car Hauler to Be Towed Behind Our Trek

[goofycat]

I am looking to purchase a flatbed hauler to be towed behind our Trek motorhome. It will be used to carry a historic sports car to races and sports car events. We now tow a small toad pickup truck 4-down with no problems, but I have never pulled a car hauler before (we live in California), and would appreciate any advice on purchasing such a device from out of state and getting it registered in CA. I understand that the maximum weight limit before automatic brakes are required is 1,500 pounds in California, so if possible, I would like to keep the weight below that. The sports car weighs about 1,450 pounds.

Purchase of a hauler would involve an adapter to accommodate the ball-hitch. We are already set up with a 7-prong electrical cord to activate the brake lights and brake gizmo inside the truck. Turn signals are not an issue because CA law states they are not needed on a flatbed hauler if the signal lights can be seen on the Trek.

I am confused, however, as to the nuts and bolts of making sure the trailer will sit at the proper angle fore and aft. Seems reasonable that I would have to try out several hitches to check the angle, but how can this be done without buying several, trying each one out, then taking all the ones back that don't allow the flatbed to sit at the right angle? I have a used flatbed car hauler in mind, but am stopped cold by the logistics of trying to figure out exactly how to go about getting it to fit properly onto the back of the Trek.

Any help would be appreciated......and if anyone has a flatbed for sale that would accommodate a 12-foot long car, I am in the market.
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"Shoot low boys, they're ridin' Shetlands."

[bandit1538]

I'm guessing you have some $$ wrapped up in the car so don't cheap out by bypassing the trailer brakes and turn signals. You are running a big risk of having a wreck towing a loaded trailer without brakes and if you go to other states without turn signals, you will get a ticket. The trailer lights will have both elements for turn/stop and tail lights, so please use them so you don't cause a wreck.
Pat
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Pat & Helen
30' 04 Coachman RoadMaster
For NW HOVER-IN updates and info goto
http://bandits-stuff.com

If it ain't broke don't fix it.

[goofycat]

You are right, Pat. The car is well worth taking the precautions you mentioned. We were talking about this very thing last night and decided not to cut corners.
Thanks for reinforcing our thoughts.
_________________
"Shoot low boys, they're ridin' Shetlands."

[bandit1538]

One suggestion on the trailer is to put a "rock shield" on the front. 3 sheets of plywood would work. You don't want your car to get rock chips that will get kicked up from the tow vehicle. This last August, I was amazed as to how many rocks got on my trailer and IN my hovercraft from the road. One reason was that there was about 20 miles of road that was just "chip sealed." That's where they put tar down then gravel, but it brought to my attention just how much crap gets kicked up by the tow vehicle.
Pat
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Pat & Helen
30' 04 Coachman RoadMaster
For NW HOVER-IN updates and info goto
http://bandits-stuff.com

If it ain't broke don't fix it.

[goofycat]

Pat, I too am amazed at stuff that can get kicked up past the mud flaps and splash shield on the motorhome. My Porsche 550 Spyder replica even had a recent application of 3M Clear Bra installed, but yes, I do plan to add even more protection. The rain sipes on the motorhome's rear tires are just wide enough to catch gravel, then release it sooner or later, making any vehicles behind it unfortunate targets. We have been driving the car to sports car races at Infineon Raceway and Laguna Seca, but would like to travel to Portland to some of the neat car events up there. Driving this open car is just too far and if it rains, we are in big trouble if we drive it. With a motorhome if it starts to rain, we can just stop, cover up the car and wait until the rain stops.
_________________
"Shoot low boys, they're ridin' Shetlands."

[bandit1538]

If you're planning to come up to the NW, then you may want to invest in a covered trailer. It does rain here once in a while. Today is one of the rare days of rain. It figures just when we are ready to finally start the new house that the monsoon season sets in.
Pat
_________________
Pat & Helen
30' 04 Coachman RoadMaster
For NW HOVER-IN updates and info goto
http://bandits-stuff.com

If it ain't broke don't fix it.

[goofycat]

My only concerns are cost (not too concerned) and weight (very concerned). If an enclosed hauler didn't weigh much more than a flatbed type of hauler, I would be very interested.
_________________
"Shoot low boys, they're ridin' Shetlands."

[lanerd]

One thing nobody has mentioned is that the Trek is limited to a 5000 lbs tow rating. You really need to check on the total weight that you will be towing. Some of those trailers get really heavy.

We tow our Toyota pickup four down with a "Roadmaster Guardian" for front end protection. However, we have found that the majority of the chips in the paint are on top of the cab or on top of the tonneau cover with a few on the driver's side. Very little (if none) on the passenger side. This leads me to believe that the majority of the chips are caused by vehicles going in the opposite direction.

I have a '64 Fairlane that I have restored and occasionally take to car shows. I always put it in an enclosed trailer just for the above reasons.

Hope this helps.

Ron
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Currently: 2008 Safari Simba SRD35
Previously: 2000 Coachmen 252RKS TT

[goofycat]

Thanks, Ron. I too would use an enclosed trailer, but they weigh more than an open hauler and are usually longer. I am presently looking for a Featherlite all-aluminum hauler in 14' deck length. Total length is about 17'. The unit is the model 3110 which weighs 1,200#. My sports car weighs around 1,500#, so the total amount would equal my existing truck weight of about 2,600#. The combined total length would also be the same as the truck and tow bar I am now using. I am forced to keep the total length less than 20 feet (including deck and tow bar) so it will fit into an enclosed non-pull-through canopy in the storage area where we keep the car.

These particular haulers in the shorter lengths are hard to find used, but I am on Craigslist frequently for a good used one for around $5,000. The five-year registration is $38 in California. These light haulers feature torsion bar axles, electric brakes, never rust and never require painting. An aluminum vertical shield that can be easily attached to the front of the hauler to protect the car's paint is offered as an option by Featherlite.

If I can find an enclosed hauler that falls within the pulling weight limits of the Trek, I will grab it in a minute, tear down the canopy and keep the car in the hauler.
_________________
"Shoot low boys, they're ridin' Shetlands."

[polecatlw]

Just want to add that in most states, the length law for combination vehicles is 65'. In Texas it's not 66'. I know; I have been there. You must get an Over Length Permit: front bumper to rear bumper of trailer.

Good luck.

[goofycat]

Interesting. 65' would still allow for a fairly long coach, plus ample room for a hauler. Our motorhome is only 25' long, plus another 20' more-or-less for a hauler would still keep us way under the limit.

Speaking of enclosed haulers, do they tend to get condensation on the interior? This would be a consideration, since we would have to store the car inside.
_________________
"Shoot low boys, they're ridin' Shetlands."

[lanerd]

Goofycat, since we are in the desert and typically only visit more humid areas once in a great while, we have not experienced any condensation in our enclosed trailer.

Yep, the enclosed is much heavier. Fortunately, our Simba is rated for 10,000 lbs so it is not an issue with us. With the Fairlane, the trailer weighs just over 6500 lbs.

One of the main points in my previous reply was that while trailering, your classic will need protection to keep the flying gravel, pebbles, and sand from peppering it. Setting on a trailer exposed to everything, you gotta expect to receive paint damage.

Ron
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Currently: 2008 Safari Simba SRD35
Previously: 2000 Coachmen 252RKS TT

[goofycat]

Thanks, Ron. I agree. I will plan on the aluminum shield on front of the Featherlite 3110 in 14' length. The enclosed is just too heavy for our little Trek with 454ci engine to pull. It does fine pulling the small Toyota truck, but the enclosed hauler with car would put the weight over the top and make the Trek harder to handle in spite of the numerous handling upgrades we installed. I am now scouring Craigslist and have found nothing. Looks as if I will just purchase one new. The used prices are almost up there with the new prices, so it should make things easy.

We plan to take the car to some distant events on the hauler. Driving an open top car for a couple of thousand miles is not fun any more. We could do it in our twenties, but not now.
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"Shoot low boys, they're ridin' Shetlands."

[Abbott]

Which Toyota truck are you towing, Goofycat? Year, model, 2- or 4-wheel drive? The reason I ask is I am currently looking for a small 4x4 truck to use as a toad.

[Bossbill]

I'm going to tow a 20' enclosed behind my 26' Class A. I'm right at the limit of the hitch.
Here are some of the things I considered before buying my shortie...
-- Flat tow is not trailer tow. Only GCVW counts in the comparison.
-- Consider the distance between the hitch and the rear wheels. The longer this distance, the more the tail wags the dog.
-- I would consider anti-sway hitches mandatory. Especially if you have a long hitch to rear wheel distance.
-- If you are approaching the max tongue weight, get a load leveler hitch.
-- You either need to watch your trailer wheels a lot or consider a tire pressure warning system.
-- I'm mounting the back-up camera to the rear of the trailer as well as the coach.
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Bill V.
2001 Rexhall Vision V-26 Widebody "Shortie"
Ford F53 / V-10
Race car hauler