Blowing Fuse for Turn Signals

PokerDiva · Joined: 06 Sep 2007 Posts: 2

We are blowing the fuse that works for turn signals and emergency flasher and at the time it blows, the ABS light comes on. We have a 2004 Allegro on a Workhorse chassis with a gas engine. It seems to also affect the cruise control as it goes when the fuse blows, even though there is a separate fuse for the cruise control which is OK. Any ideas on what causes this or how to track down the problem? We also tow a Chevy Colorado and have tried to check that connection. Crying or Very sad

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TannerBee · Joined: 28 Oct 2006 Posts: 702 Location: Rock Hill, SC

Electrical gremlins can be tough. Does the fuse blow when you activate the turn signal? If so, left or right? Have you taken a ride without the toad? Could be the harness for the toad. If you don't need to hook up the harness for the toad brakes, you might try travelling a while with the harness unplugged. Otherwise, it's going to be a 'wiggle the wires' trial and error. Since the ABS light comes on when the fuse blows, I'm guessing you can tell right when it happens. If you are just cruising along, not using the signals, then no current should be in the hot wires going to the signals, which may mean that the trouble is not there. Perhaps there is something in the ABS system itself that is causing the fuse to blow. That is a question for a service technician. Are the cruise controls on the turn signal stalk? Might be something to think about. Good luck and keep us posted.
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Don & Nancy · Joined: 21 Jul 2007 Posts: 6

I read somewhere recently - perhaps on this forum - that the common part when losing your cruise control along with the ABS light coming on is the brake switch. I'd really be interested in what you find and how you found it, when you get it resolved. I have a similar problem with my ABS light staying on in my 05 Winnebago/Workhorse W20 - still troubleshooting.

greggb · Joined: 21 Oct 2006 Posts: 3 Location: Livingston, TX

We also have the same problem blowing the 15A turn signal mini-fuse many times on our 2004 Itasca Suncruiser (2003 chassis). Workhorse folks have been trying to find a cure for the past 3 1/2 years. It may blow within a week or maybe 3 months. The 20A fuse has also blown for the cruise control/horn several times. Again, the Workhorse "experts" were unable to find it. I would like to find a solution for the problem as well.

I might add, this coach's electrical system had suffered major grounding problems soon after buying it new in 2004. Also, there was a dead short of the wiring in the steering column, apparently caused by poor design or routing of the wires.

GreggB

Big-Mo · Joined: 21 Nov 2006 Posts: 8

I had my cruise control blowing my 20 amp fuses continually when I braked. My Fleetwood Pace Arrow (1998) was on recall for the cruise on a Ford chassis. They are now waiting for the new parts to be manufactured for the spring of 2008. The dealership disconnected my cruise up front which is simple plug-in.
Unfortunately, it gave me prior problems in past year and I had my dealership trace it down. One of the main problems was my Car Caddie wiring and brake lights. It might have been as simple as placing fuses on the trailer from stop and signal lights to the RV. They also put an auto reset fuse in main fuse box to circumvent other problems.
Since the dealership could NOT pin it down to an exact cause, the fuses and partial rewiring has remedied most of the problem. Without rewiring the whole trailer, this seemed to remedy the main cruise problem without a fire hazard.
They also stated that this new insert being manufactured is simply a form of a fuse applied between the cruise and wiring, so I may have remedied it the more expensive way but resolved the problem. Just be careful: it cost me over $1,000 over the whole year to fix it.
This recall was for all Ford chassis from 1985 to 2002 with cruise control. The years are a little off but you should get a letter too. You can check with recalls or Ford listings.

oldgasser · Joined: 02 Feb 2006 Posts: 32 Location: Arizona

Your problem sounds to me like it could be a wire where the insulation has worn through where it goes through a bulkhead or other tight place. These are hard to find without specialized circuit tools. I would replace the fuse with a circuit breaker of the same amperage. You can buy these at any automotive parts store and they plug right in in place of the fuse (unless, like some manufacturers, the space is too tight to accommodate the circuit breaker). The circuit breaker acts just like a fuse, opening when overloaded, but resets when the temperature goes to normal avoiding having to replace the fuse.
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Stacy · Posted: Mon Sep 24, 2007 7:23 am Post subject:

I had a problem when someone tried to (I don't know--steal my brake contoller?) in a lousy campground. When I used the car I could feel the ABS engage immediately. I was able to get the ABS figured out, but the company no longer makes cars (Isuzu) and I had an impossible time finding anyone even with a diagnostic computer to read the wires in the steering column. Everything is functional, but I'd like to actually get it repaired.
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