LP Issues

[ddfuller]

Hi, new to group and new to RVs. Been a longtime tenter/backpacker, but young children have required a change.

I have a 1988 Fleetwood Yukon 19' TT. Have noticed some issues while using LP and would like some help. New, full LP tanks by the way.
Trip #1. Completely off grid and utilities. LP hot water heater starts fine, but sputters out after about 1-3 minutes every time. LP fridge worked fine until LP heater and stove burners used at same time. Then fridge would cut out. Restarted all right after other appliances turned off.
Trip #2. Also completely off grid. We are currently traveling in the North Cascades in WA. Hot water heater situation unchanged: not working. LP fridge worked fine for 1+ days. Second day of driving I got thinking the fridge should run on 12V while driving (save some LP), so I thought I had it set to 'electric' during 5-hour drive, but I don't think it was working on 12V as inside warmed up. No problem. I started up on LP once TT leveled and secured. It would not start for long time. I'm stressin.. Finally got it going, but at 6 am this morning, noticed it had cut out. Restarted it; went out. Restarted it again and it remained on for the 5 minutes I was at campsite; however, I have been gone from campsite for 6 hours now, so it may have died again. Unreliability is making me stressed. Fridge works fine for many days in a row when on 120V, but seems unreliable on LP.

My questions:
1. How picky is the fridge on the level of the TT? I have it pretty darn good, but it's not 100% perfect.
2. Any ideas on my LP issues? Fridge? Hot water heater? Anything I can troubleshoot out here at the campsite? The fridge is my big concern. I can live fine w/o hot water.

Thanks a lot.
-ddfuller

[dave n]

Most fridges and hot water heaters must have a 12 v supply while running on gas. Is your house battery charged up and on line to supply 12 volts to units? We only turn on hot water heater to bathe/wash dishes, then turn off to save gas. Fridge doesn't use much gas if left on. Dave
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Retired SCPO USN

[ddfuller]

Yes, my 12V battery is fully charged and online as far as I know. The lights work fine. Since the fridge worked fine the previous day, I assume the 12V system is connected and operational for these two appliances.

[tealeel]

It sounds to me like you're not getting enough gas pressure. Check for kinked gas lines. Also it could be your gas regulator. Check to see its vent isn't plugged.
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2000 Chevy K2500 24.5' Hornet by Damon 5er

[Motor31]

My vote would be for the gas pressure as well. It sounds like you are not getting enough flow since it starts up, then dies. A partial obstruction would allow pressure to build up normally when off, then allow insufficient flow when the appliance starts to run.
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Mike, Nancy and the Fuzzies
2005 MS 38 RL3
2001 Volvo MH (HDT)
2004 R1150RT (piggyback)
1996 Jeep Cherokee (toad)

[GDT]

Refrigerator cutting out while on gas could also be rust on the burner. They are bad about rusting in the flue and dropping onto the burner. You will probably have to remove a cover to see the burner. Tap on the flue with your hand to get all the rust out. Blow out the burner compartment with compressed air or simply blow out with your lungs. If you blow it out with your lungs, be sure to close your eyes as it will come back into your face. I clean mine every year to prevent problems on the road.

[kingrokon]

It sounds like a problem with the regulator or supply lines.

The propane gas pressure should be about 11 inches of water. You could tap into the gas line at the stove and measure the pressure with a “U-Tube Manometer.” See:
http://www.rverscorner.com/manometer.html

If the trailer still has the original regulator, it is around 20 years old now, and about due for a new replacement anyway. They aren’t very expensive, around $15 for a one-stage type, or $35 for a two-stage regulator, available from most RV stores and RV internet companies. The two-stage type is regarded as being superior. It may be a good idea just to go ahead and replace the regulator. You may be able to do this replacement yourself, if you feel confident in your abilities.

However, if you don’t have a pretty good idea what you’ll be doing – maybe it’s better to let someone else do it. Then again, an RV dealer can run up a bill equal to half the entire value of your trailer.

Also, get a good book on RV repair like “The RV Handbook” by Bill Estes, or a similar book. Some of this particular book is aimed more towards motorhomes and engine repair, but there is a fairly good section on propane and other RV systems.

[oldgasser]

Hi there,
Just a couple of additional items to check: many older RVs use 1/4" copper pigtails between the LP tanks and the regulator. Copper will react with the small amount of sulphur in the propane and carbon residue will build up in the copper line to the point that it will severely restrict gas flow. These are high pressure lines so 1/4" is more than enough to supply needed pressure, but when partially plugged, will limit delivery severely. Most newer RVs use rubber pigtails which do not have this problem, but must be replaced about every 5 years because of deterioration. If yours are copper, I would recommend rubber replacements. If your pigtails are OK, I would replace the LP regulator. If it is an auto changeover type, replace with the same type. It has been my experience that very few RV owners know how to properly use their auto changeover regulators and even fewer dealers know how to instruct their owners. These regulators are intended to be used with both LP bottle supply valves full open. The regulator will use from the cylinder which the selector arrow points to until it has emptied that cylinder and then will automatically switch to the full cylinder, and a red indicator will show that the first cylinder needs to be refilled. By switching the arrow to the cylinder being used, you can then disconnect (turn off the supply valve first) the empty cylinder and refill it without interrupting service to the coach.

Hope this solves your problem.

Gerry
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Old Gasser