By Chris Dougherty
The RV range is a pretty simple device, and usually works when lighted. However, without a little maintenance it can fail, which will leave you by the creek without any supper!
As with the range at home, a clean range is a happy range. On the cooktop, lift the grates and clean the top. Then lift the top to reveal the mechanical space just beneath (units with sealed burners can’t be lifted). Clean this area thoroughly. Look for any damage, evidence of mice, etc.
If the range is getting moderate use, the burners should be cleaned annually or as needed. Make a bath of warm soapy water in the sink or in a bin. Using a Phillips screwdriver, remove the burners one at a time (see the screw on the bottom) and soak in the bath, carefully brushing around the ports. Rinse and dry, then replace as it came off, placing the tube back over the manifold port, and screw back down to the pan. Be sure to remove/reattach the lead for the auto igniter if applicable. Once done, put the top of the range back together.
The oven (if applicable) basically follows the same rules. Check to see that the seals around the door are in good condition. Clean the inside of the oven. The burner underneath shouldn’t require user maintenance, although I would look at it to make sure there’s no obvious damage. On the rear wall of the oven on the top is the thermal bulb, which connects to the thermostat. If this gets gummed up for some reason, it can read falsely. This can be carefully removed by squeezing the spring clip, and can be lightly cleaned using emory cloth. Be sure not to kink or damage the tube going to the bulb.When you’re done, test all of the functions of the range.
As a side note, many RVers complain about temperature control in the RV oven, and about the bottom of their food burning. One fix I have found to work well is to buy a pizza stone of the appropriate size to put on the bottom heat plate of the oven (the plate the burner flame touches.) This helps to diffuse the direct heat, and makes the range work better. It shouldn’t cover the entire floor of the oven, though – make sure any open ports or holes in the heat plate are open.
Chris Dougherty wrote this when he served as technical editor of RVtravel.com
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For deflecting heat in my Suburban oven, I use a piece of heavy duty aluminum foil, folded in half to cover the center on the bottom, leaving the airholes exposed.
It works perfectly. I can cook biscuits, brownies, casseroles and even a 12 pound turkey that turned out just right.
I can leave the foil in the oven and replace as needed with a new piece of foil. Cheap and easy.
Use a cookie pan with a 1 inch rim turned upside down on the bottom as a defuser. Won’t break and we’ve done this for over 30 years with perfect results.
As someone else asked hiw can I keep the burner screwed onto the bracket? That tiny tiny screw just shakes loose about every other trip. The bigger screw that holds the burner and bracket to the base of the stove is tight. The burner is tight against the gas valve bolt. How can we keep the little screw on the burner ? I bought a new burner and it didn’t help.
You may wish to try a touch of “Thread locker”, any car parts store can help you get the right one. There are different colors and temperature variants so depending on how permanent and or temperature involved where the screw is located; make sure you get the appropriate color (strength).
Use Loctite on the threads then they won’t back out. Loctite makes different strength liquids from light holding (get that one) to their permanent holding product that you won’t be able to take apart without heating it up to 450 degrees with a torch. Go to an auto parts store for the right one.
Where can I get the screws that hold the burgers together on a Dometic stove. Not from Dometic evidently.
Ace hardware stores, Home Depot and Lowes have a nice selection of screws. You’ll just have to figure what size you need.
A good friend recommended using an inexpensive aluminum roasting pan. Dollar store variety works great. Just pound it flat with a mallet, then trim as needed to fit with tin snips or heavy scissors. Brownies don’t burn on the bottom anymore!!!!
I read about pizza stones in this newsletter a few years ago. We purchased one that was a bit smaller than the metal plate and the first time we used it the stone cracked to the point of being useless. We bought another one recently and instead of putting it directly on the metal heat plate we put it on the lower rack. This works. No cracks. Much more even baking and cooking. Did we just have a faulty pizza stone causing it to crack when placed on the heat plate? Would be nice to have it on the metal plate rather than on the rack. Advice?
I’ve been using a pizza stone for a few years now. I have mine directly on the metal heat plate. Have traveled 30,000+ miles without a problem or burnt items in the oven. You must have just had a weak pizza stone.
The same thing happened to me.
The pizza stone is a good diffuser and with it we can bake without burning the bottoms of things. The first attempt with a stone directly on the metal plate also cracked. That one was a tight fit over the metal plate. Bought another one and cut it down so that it is a bit smaller than the plate and it doesn’t cover the holes on each side of the plate. The second stone has worked great for a couple of years now. I did screw a small L bracket into the metal plate to keep the stone for possibly sliding out and pushing the oven door open while traveling. Probably not necessary but we learned a lesson when we stored a cast iron skillet on the rack while traveling. It slid around on the rack, pushed the oven door open, fell out, and dinged/gouged the vinyl floor. Live and learn….
Pizza stone makes a huge difference