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Winter Comes Early–Bryce Canyon is Waiting

In Utah’s high country, winter comes early. A few years back we were “chased out” of the canyon country by snow in October. But now’s a great time to catch the scenery without the huge crowds–and oppressive heat.

Bryce Canyon is unique among the “Crown Jewels” of the national park system–its wide ranging terrain takes you up nearly 2,000 feet and through three distinct climate zones. And the mysterious “hoodoos” formed by the action of water on sandstone never fail to do a little jaw dropping.

If you go with your trailer or fifth wheel, you’ll need to “drop it” in a specified parking area, or leave it in your park camp site in order to appreciate the park. A long “uphill drive” takes you to viewpoints over the park’s “amphitheatres,” and trailers just aren’t allowed. We took our truck camper instead, and were happy to perch on overlooks with our kitchen and own bathroom near at hand.

But as we said, winter comes soon. The cold nights are already sneaking in, and snow can’t be far behind. Plan your visit by checking out the park’s web site.

Last Gasp of the Fruit Stands


Leave it to the fair-sex navigator to spot the signs a mile away: “Hey! There’s a fruit stand!” Sure enough, coming up on the side of the road was an old 4-bay garage turned produce market. The multicolored sign proclaimed just some of nature’s delicious offerings that could be purchased.

Yes, dotting the countryside are those wonderful little independent vendors who proffer their produce prodigiously. But don’t be piqued, the season is almost kaput. As autumn rushes in on us, the farmers are begining to drag in the last of it. In fact, in the Oregon onion fields, all that’s left is the scent and a few husks of what used to be.

Oh intrepid travelers with a taste for fresh fruits, dither not. Find a fruit stand afore it’s too late. This one is at the east end of The Dalles, Oregon.

Plenty to see in Silverton, Oregon

If you’re headed north or south on I-5 and are near Salem, take the turnoff for Keizer and go east to Silverton. Silverton Road will lead you directly to old downtown Silverton with its many murals.

The Oregon Garden is three blocks from the Silver Spur RV Park and less than one mile from downtown. Also nearby is Silver Falls State Park, the largest state park in Oregon.

Next week is Oktoberfest but I won’t be here to share in the fun. However, the other sights in Silverton are available year round. You can spend a day here but take two so you can appreciate what this little town has to offer. Check out their website for more information: http://www.silvertonor.com/

Take a “poor man’s cruise” on a Washington State Ferry

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Visitors to the Puget Sound area of Washington state looking for a fun way to spend a few hours or even a day might want to take “a poor man’s cruise” on a Washington State Ferry. There are about a dozen major routes to choose from, some as short as 15 minutes but some more than an hour. The two biggest urban routes leave Seattle and Edmonds (to the north), but the most scenic is from Anacortes to the pretty little town of Friday Harbor in the San Juan Islands. En route, the ship passes by isolated islands, some with a home or two. If you get lucky, you may see a pod of Orca Whales.

Walk on fares are inexpensive, ranging from about $4 to $13 round trip in peak season. Passengers only pay going west: the trip back is free. Vehicles, however are charged both ways. It might cost $25 to bring a car back and forth on a short trip, or up to about $75 on longer routes. RVs are charged extra if they are longer than 20 feet and also when their height exceeds 7 feet six inches. A ride from Edmonds on the mainland to Kingston on the Kitsap Peninsula would cost about $85 round trip on an RV between 20 and 30 feet that is higher than 7 feet six inches. A big rig RV sailing to and from the San Juan Islands might pay about $300 during the prime summer season (figure about 20 percent less in the off-season).

Most riders with vehicles leave them after boarding and head upstairs to lounges, the cafeteria and viewing areas. Grab a hamburger or some fish and chips in the cafeteria. Kids can play video games. And there’s always an extensive literature rack with good information about the destinations ahead.

It’s hardly ever a problem walking onto a ferry — there is always room. But driving on can involve a wait of an hour or two on Fridays and Sundays during the busy summer months.

The two-minute video clip here is of the trip from Edmonds to Kingston.

Learn more about the ferry including schedules and fares by visiting the Washington State Ferries website.

Lobsta – Maine style!

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More than 25 years ago my family discovered a wonderful little spot hidden on a quiet inlet in the pretty town of Kittery, in southern Maine. We’d been visiting the beach in Ogunquit for many years and would often drive the local backroads. One day we happened across a small pier in Kittery that led to a dock with a tempting sign: “Chauncey Creek, Lobsters.”

Lobster sounded mighty good, so we headed down the wooden gangway onto the floating dock where a few picnic tables were scattered about, overlooking the pine-shaded briney inlet. Lobster traps were piled along the sides, the fragrance from the open kitchen was somewhat like that of a warm aquarium, and the ten or so people at the tables were busy cracking, butter-dipping, and savoring their boiled lobsters. We joined them that day and so began a long-standing annual tradition.

Today, not much has changed… you still have to pretty much know the back road in. There are a few more picnic tables on the dock, each year painted in fresh, bright colors. Most of the dock is open air; a covered shelter holds about 8-10 tables for those summer storms. You bring your own side dishes, desserts, and wine or beer (or the making for whatever drinks you like to enjoy. You can get fries at Chauncey’s now, and even tuna sandwiches for those who aren’t into lobsters… but personally I ignore all of that.

My mother has always baked a chocolate roll for our desserts there, and we almost always bring along a cucumber and tomato salad, and lots of good, crusty bread. Together, we go into the little room with the live lobster holding tanks, reverentially look them over with awe and wonder (trying to discreetly wipe the drool off our faces), point to the one with our name on it and go back to our table… and wait.

Meanwhile, the lobsters are taken “to the back” and yes, boiled in large pots of Atlantic sea water. A sad fate if you stop to really think about it, but one that I can somehow always manage to “move past” emotionally.

Out come the friendly staff bearing cardboard trays, plastic bibs with a big red lobster picture, the necessary nutcrackers, fork picks, and lots of napkins. Oh and the melted butter. We talk, have a drink and behave in a (mostly) patient and civilized manner for about 15-20 minutes. Then back come the friendly staff, trays piled high with bright red pound-and-a-halfers — and yes, those are what I consider the perfect personal-sized crustacean of the lobster variety.

Chauncey Creek has never let me down. I know that on this tiny dock in a picturesque Maine village, surrounded by a watery inlet bordered by pines, bobbing trap buoys just off the dock, with the perfume of steaming brine in the air — and my family around me — I will lose track of time and worries for a perfectly delicious couple of hours.

I am also happy to report that now three generations of my family make the annual pilgrimage to Chauncey’s. And oh… if you want to do as the local do, here “down east Maine”… order a LOBSTA.

For the record, Chauncey’s is located 16 Chauncey Creek Road, Kittery Point, Maine. Phone 207-439-1030.

World’s Biggest Egg awaits in Winlock, Washington

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Do you enjoy eggs for breakfast? Do you really, really enjoy eggs? Then point your RV toward Winlock, Wash., where you can visit, up close and personal, the world’s largest egg. It’s on a pedestal way above your head, so you can only look.

You can probably figure this out by yourself, but I will tell you anyway: the egg is fake. It’s made of concrete and weighs a bundle — about 1,200 pounds, which means don’t stand beneath it in case the once-every-100-year earthquake shakes things up.

Until the 1950s, Winlock was America’s second largest egg-laying town next to Mentone, Indiana, which today has a big egg of its own and claims it’s the biggest one in the world. Who knows? But our vote is for the Winlock egg for the simple reason that how the heck could there ever be a bigger egg?

To see this impressively large orb, exit Interstate 5 at exit 63 (in the south part of the state) and drive just a few minutes west to Winlock. You can’t miss the egg. It’s “Extra Large!”

And if you happen to be in the area the third week in June, then lucky you! You are just in time to attend the famous Winlock Egg Festival!

Triple Caramel Crunch- yum, yum!


Triple Caramel Crunch was the flavor of the day when we toured Ben and Jerry’s in Waterbury, VT. What a fun tour! There were cow puns galore and a short but humorous “moovie” of how the company got started. We could see the workers and machines processing one of the two flavors of the day. And, of course, got our sample cup.

 

You can either purchase a regular ticket for the tour at $3/adult or $2/senior or the $20 package which includes tour, tshirt and a coupon for a free pint of Ben and Jerry’s ice cream. Kids are slightly less and tours are free for those 12 and under.

 

Of course there is the gift shop and a place to purchase cones and shakes made from the other flavors. George had Creamy Broulee (delicious) and I had Coffee, Coffee, Buzz, Buzz. When we later visited the flavor graveyard, we found one for Coffee, Coffee. Apparently it has been resurrected!

 

To read about how to find a job working at Ben and Jerry’s and other Vermont attractions, go to “Vermont Possibilities” at the Working on the RV Road Blog.

 

The tour is lots of fun so if you are in Vermont, be sure to add that to your itinerary. Jaimie

Salt water taffy shopping on the Oregon Coast

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Depoe Bay, Ore. is located right along majestic U.S. 101 on the Pacific Coast and is famous for whale watching and shopping for salt water taffy. The Depoe Bay Candy Shoppe sells 60 different varieties — great for the sweet tooth, and probably for a dentist’s business, too (sticky stuff!). Here’s a short video I did in between visiting the tiny town’s many trinket shops. — Chuck Woodbury

Junk Yard Dogs Won’t Hurt You!

RVers headed north out of Junction City, Oregon on Highway 99 will be delighted to dine at Junk Yard Dogs. Owner Craig Zumwalt serves up a great sausage deal at Junk Yard Dogs. Here a couple of hungry and hard working brothers Scott (left) and Jacob Corliss (right) wait for their order. They love the food here and rightly so, check out this chili dog. Junk Yard Dogs is located on Highway 99 and Lingo Lane. Jim Twamley

Hiking the Grand Staircase

The reward at the end of the trail along Calf Creek is a stunning 126′ water fall. Much of the almost two million acre Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument in Utah is largely wilderness and not easily accessible, but this hike is right off scenic Highway 12, 15 miles east of Escalante. Day users pay $2 ($1 for Golden Age or Access).

The trail is six miles round trip so we packed a lunch. The trail is moderate, with some ups and downs as it follows the creek. A trail guide, available at the trailhead, points out historical and cultural features like a huge pictograph on a canyon wall and graneries hidden in cliffs for storage. What made the trail a little harder was the loose, sandy soil in many places, which makes for harder hiking, and the fact that about two-thirds of the trail is directly in the sun. The last third has more shade and you are rewarded with lovely trees, mist and cool at the falls itself. You can fish for brown trout and wade in the pool or simply enjoy the cool before heading back.

While there is a small campground at Calf Creek, it is limited to smaller RVs – 25′ maximum. An alternative is to camp in Escalante, which has one private campground. Plus just west of town is a state park. You can also pick up a few groceries and buy an expresso coffee in town. In fact, the best thing to do is leave your RV in Escalante and drive the 16 miles to Calf Creek. Parking is very limited and the turn onto Highway 12 with an RV is tough if you are headed east from there.

Globe mallow was in bloom with the trees leafing out- wonderful contrast to the red rock of this area. Southeast Utah always amazes me. It is high desert but down in the canyons is another world. Cottonwoods, willows and other water-loving plants thrive. From a high vantage point above the canyons, you can see a ribbon of green wherever a stream flows.

If you’re following Highway 12, the hike to lower Calf Creek is a way to stretch your legs plus see riparian Utah up close and personal. Jaimie

Zion National Park by shuttle

I last visited Zion National Park in 1993. Since then, they have closed the Zion Canyon Scenic Drive to private vehicles (except up as far as the lodge and campground if you are staying there). We were thinking having to ride a shuttle would diminsh the experience. We wouldn’t be able to see everything we wanted easily or we’d be stuck waiting for a shuttle along the route.

 

It turned out that the free shuttle improved our experience. The only vehicles on the road were shuttles, which, during mid-day, ran every 7-10 minutes apart, plus a few bicycles. There was always room and we only waited for 7 or 8 minutes once, when we just missed a shuttle pulling out. If you ride up and back without getting off, the round trip takes about 90 minutes. The drivers tell you what’s along the route, though you can sign up for one shuttle with a ranger aboard, which takes 2 hours. The ranger-narrated shuttle tour left at 9 a.m., so check for times and availability as soon as you arrive at the visitor center.

 

At Zion you are at the bottom of a canyon with steep walls- a different perspective than a park like the Grand Canyon where you are at the top looking down. We got off at nearly every stop. You can access several hikes from shuttle stops. We did the half-mile round trip up to Weeping Rock and back, plus the two-mile Riverside walk along the Virgin River canyon. Both were handicapped accessible. You can do challenging hikes like the one to Angels Landing as well. The lodge, one of the stops, has a coffee shop, cafe, restaurant and gift shop.

 

Parking is available at the visitor center, but that often fills up by 10 a.m. Another free shuttle runs through the town of Springdale with several stops and more parking to take to you the park entrance. From May 20 to September 8, shuttles run from 5:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. More information on shuttle schedules can be found here.

 

We came in from the east on Highway 9. It is a gorgeous drive, however, it is best if you leave your RV at a campground and drive your tow or toad vehicle in. You need to drive through two tunnels with height and width restrictions. Vehicles with a combined length of move than 50′ are prohibited. RVs less than 40′ long (single vehicle) can enter but will have to pay a $15 escort fee. In fact, with our dually truck, we had to pay the $15 because it exceeds the width limits. If you have an oversized vehicle, the tunnel is closed to traffic coming the other way while you go through. Large RVs can come in from the south on Highway 9 through Springdale to reach the park.

 

If you’d like to spend more time there, you could work for one of the concessionaires. Click here to read more about jobs at Zion at the Working on the RV Road blog. Or here for information on volunteering at a national park.

 

This is one of the top natural national parks and a visit is often combined to other national parks in the area like Bryce Canyon, the north rim of the Grand Canyon, plus other Utah parks. If you haven’t been yet, put it on your list! Jaimie

The ‘House On The Rock’ Treasure Chest Goes On And On And On

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In the 1940’s Alex Jordan, a eccentric collector and dreamer with a wild imagination, purchased a 60-foot chimney rock in the beautiful Wyoming
Valley of Spring Green, Wisconsin.
He painstakingly began to build a weekend retreat – all supplies were carried up by hand. But because people kept asking to see what he was building, he began to charge 50 cents for the tour. He called his house foundation ‘Deer Shelter Rock’ and his structure slowly transformed into an architectural wonder. The House is so much more than a static museum.
Over the years Alex’s original 14 rooms expanded to numerous buildings and collections that seem endless – esthetic beautiful floral garden displays highlighted each area. It officially opened to the public in 1961.
Our first visit in 1987 was simply mind-boggling but every time we returned the displays have grown and become more extensive. The collections include rare and unique treasures from around the world.
In 1988 Alex sold ‘The House’ to his partner and friend, Art Donaldson – Art shared Alex’s enthusiasm although Alex stayed on staff until his death a year later. Art has made every effort to continue and expand Alex’s dream.
Huge extensive collections include items such as Cannons, Dolls, Circus angels and the amazing Carousel, one of a kind Organs, Circus room; Streets and Music of Yesterday, a huge Christmas collection during the season and, and and; the listings seem endless. Of course no one should miss the original 14 rooms plus the infinity room.

The House is undergoing major renovations and expansion during the next 3-years but it continues to remain open. This complex has grown so large in size that it may be advantageous for visitors to choose a shorter single tour; however a combined extensive three-tours-in-one is also available. John and I visit this one of a kind ‘Gem’ every few years to appreciate the changes, but we split up and meet several hours later. He isn’t interested in the doll room and/or similar items and I had too much to see to spend time appreciating the extensive gun collection.

The House on the Rock expansion now includes an inn, resort, golf course, restaurants and mega garden displays inside and out. Various campgrounds are located nearby
For more details please check out the official website of the House on the Rock