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Beauvoir: At home with Jefferson Davis

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Serving as both Mississippi Senator and Secretary of War under President Franklin Pierce, Jefferson Davis staunchly supported slavery and states rights, though he opposed secession from the union as a method of maintaining Southern principles. When Mississippi seceded, Davis resigned his senate seat.

Following his tenure as President of the ill-fated Confederacy during the Civil War, a government indictment for treason (later dropped), and a couple of business failures, he retired to Beauvoir on the Mississippi Sound–as a guest of wealthy intellectual Sarah Dorsey–to write his memoirs. His wife joined him a year later and they purchased the estate, along with some furnishings, for $5,500. Davis died in 1889 but the property remained in the Davis family until 1902 when the central portion of the estate was sold to the Mississippi Division, United Sons of Confederate Veterans.

Beauvoir operated until 1957 as a home for Confederate veterans and their families and now the 51-acre estate, recognized as a National Historic Landmark, has been restored. Along with the Jefferson Davis Presidential Library, which opened in 1998, the home and grounds are open to the public. Beauvoir is located at 2244 Beach Blvd., Biloxi, Mississippi.

See a giant mammoth in Waco, Texas

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Point that RV of yours toward the just opened Waco Mammoth Site in Waco, Texas, where you can see a giant Colombian Mammoth from about 70,000 years ago. Of course, you can’t see the animals because they are long dead. But you can see their bones and learn all about the elephant-looking beasts. The Mammoth Site opened December 8.

The site is in a 100-plus acre stretch of wooded parkland along the Bosque River. Covered in sprawling oak, mesquite and cedar trees, it offer an escape from the modern world and provides a glimpse into the lives of Columbian mammoths. Though the first bones at site were discovered in 1978, the site remained closed to the public until the end of 2009. Baylor University staff, students and volunteers spent countless hours excavating the area during the past 30 years

The Waco Mammoth Site now includes a dig shelter that creates an atmosphere of an art gallery. Natural light floods into the shelter from all directions and a suspended walkway provides a stunning overhead view of the mammoths. The site also features a scenic trail complete with benches and rest areas where visitors can reflect on what life was like during the age of the mammoths.

Admission rates range from $5 to $7. Public hours are 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Tuesdays – Fridays & from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. on Saturdays. Congressional legislation is currently pending to create the Waco Mammoth National Monument and to include the site as a unit of the National Park Service.

Visit the World’s Shortest River in Oregon

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Maybe you seek a claim to fame — something you can brag about at all those cocktail parties you attend. A good claim to fame might be to walk from the beginning to the end of a river. Now that would be quite an accomplishment on most rivers. For example, to travel from one end of the Colorado River to the other would be 1,450 miles.

Given that, maybe you’d prefer something more manageable. In that case, you might opt for the D River, which is 440 feet long and begins and ends in Lincoln City, Oregon. It flows from Devils Lake under U.S. 101 into the Pacific Ocean. The D River was once listed as the “shortest river in the world,” by the Guinness Book of World Records. Then, in 1989, Guinness said the Roe River in Montana was even shorter. Well, the Lincoln City people were not about to accept being second, so they re-measured it at “extreme high tide,” and claimed once again that their river was shorter.

Guinness must have been confused because after that it no longer listed a category for shortest river. But as you can see in this sign by U.S. 101, Lincoln City still insists its river is the shortest.

Cabela’s fantasy outdoors stores

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As you cross the limitless plains of the American midwest and find yourself drifting off into dreams of challenging exploits, tracking grizzlies through the Rocky Mountains, photographing moose and elk in the wild, or stalking rare birds along the Rio Grande River, Cabela’s–every outdoor enthusiast’s wish store–is for you . You can now find one of the twenty-nine Cabela’s along the interstates from Reno, Nevada to Hartford, Connecticut.
Whatever your needs for outdoor adventures, real or fantasy, you’ll find it here at one of the world’s foremost outfitters. You can equip yourself with all the clothing, gear, gadgets, and tools for hunting, fishing, canoeing, and mountain climbing that you could possibly need.
Cabella’s go-do-it staff consists of active and experienced outdoor people, so they will be able to help you in choosing just the right gear or clothing for that Alaska polar bear photo shoot or for rafting the Snake River gorge.
But that’s not all, you can snap a picture of your spouse chatting with a brown bear, facing a threatening Bighorn, or staring down a bull moose–the real McCoys (stuffed, of course)–at their realistic outdoor displays, some that rise more than two stories above the sales floor.

Vinyard hopping near Jerome, Arizona

This time of year, as more RVs flock to the warmer climates, some wonder, “What’s to do?” If you’re a vino fancier, the red rock areas near Sedona beckon. Yep, it’s hard to believe that this is wine country, what with all the press California gets, but this has been a “vintage year” for Arizona. No rain, perfect grape growing temperatures, and no late frost. As a result, the vintners are rejoicing.

In Jerome alone there are two places you can taste the miracle of the grape in wine tasting rooms right at the wineries. Clinging to the side of Cleopatra Hill is Jerome Winery. If you have a hard-to-please vino palate, they may have what you desire, producing 30 different handcrafted wines. Meanwhile, down on Main Street you’ll find Caduceus Cellars, headed up by Maynard Keenan, the lead singer of a musical group called Tool.

Never heard of ’em? That makes several of us. But Keenan makes an interesting claim for his vino, if we may quote: “My art and music has been described as ‘thick, dense, rich complex, engaging, emotional, and spiritual,’ by those who are fans. And an ‘acquired taste’ for those kind others who are not.” We’ll let you sort that one out on your own.

Where to stay in the Jerome area? For the hardy boondocker, there’s the Mingus Mountain Campground on US Forest Service land (Take Highway 89A south out of Jerome about 7 miles to Forest Route 104, thence roughly east about three more miles–inquire locally!). If you need something softer–with hookups, there’s Dead Horse Ranch State Park near Cottonwood (about 8 miles away).

Dramatic desert cliffs, buttes, and rock formations at Red Rock Canyon SP

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The 50-site campground at Red Rock Canyon State Park is tucked into the base of colorful desert cliffs where once the Kawaiisu Indians hunted rabbits and small game. I was reminded of this when I had taken no more than a dozen steps outside my motorhome and confronted a coyote stalking a cottontail. Suddenly the coyote made his move, startling the cottontail that darted off to its burrow—and right between my legs. The coyote hadn’t noticed me until then, and came to a sliding, dust-swirling stop just feet ahead of me, then disappeared off into the scrub.
The park’s prominent buttes, steep cliffs, and colorful rock formations served as signposts for the Native Americans that for thousands of years passed over this trade route. Twenty-mule
team freight wagons stopped here for water in the 1870s, miners worked the area in the late 1800s, and it has been the location of several movies. The cliffs, caves, and narrow canyons behind the campground are fun to explore and offer great views from the top.

The park recently removed the alien invader tamarisk trees, which soak up lots of water, and the stream now flows above ground again. Wildflowers are beautiful in the Spring. The park is 25 miles north of the town of Mojave on route 14 near Cantil, California. The no reservation, no hook-up campground has water and pittoilets but no dump station.
Check out my eBook, Snowbird’s Guide to Boondocking on the Southwestern Deserts.
##RVT767

Ash Springs: A little known Nevada desert hot spring

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We were boondocking at Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge, about 15 miles to the south of Ash Springs, which we knew had a natural hot springs. We drove up and found the hot water bubbling out of some rocks and falling down into a couple of pools below in the shade of very old cottonwood trees and lush plants, all this in an otherwise dry, monotone desert. The only others in this beautiful setting were a young Hispanic family finishing a picnic and about to leave. They said they had already been in the water and it was nice and warm. We gingerly entered the hot water and were soon aahing and oohing as the heat soaked into our bones.

We sat for a while until all of a sudden Lynn felt a little tickle on her leg, then on her arm, then on her toe. The water was crystal clear and as she looked down she saw tiny little fish, swimming up to investigate her, giving her that little tickle. She was thrilled to share her bath with the little fish.

The springs are free and just outside the tiny town of Ash Springs seven miles north of Alamo, about 1 1/2 hours north of Las Vegas on US93.
Check out my eBook, Boondocking: Finding the Perfect Campsite on America’s Public Lands, the RVers complete guide to boondocking.

Big Morongo Canyon Preserve

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Overshadowed by its neighbors, upscale Palm Springs to the south and Joshua Tree National Park to the north east, Big Morongo Canyon Preserve is one of the ten largest cottonwood/willow oases in the California desert, a startling discovery surrounded by Mojave desert creosote and yucca. Nationally recognized for its migratory bird watching, this soggy riparian habitat is also home to numerous songbirds, great horned owls, raccoons, ringtail cats, coyotes, bobcats, red-tailed and Cooper’s hawks, and is frequented by bighorn sheep who come out of the barren high canyon hills to drink.Several trails of varied lengths lace through and around the boggy canyon bottom, revealing a burn recovery area from a 1992 fire, desert plants of the dry canyon sides, a boardwalk through the fresh-water marsh where plants have adapted to a life-time of living up to their knees in water, and a canyon trail skirting the marsh providing overlooks into the wetlands.From Interstate 10 north of Palm Springs, turn north on Highway 62 (or from Joshua Tree National Park, drive south on 62) to Morongo Valley. Turn east on East Drive to the signed entrance. Adequate parking and turn around for big rigs.

Nook Farm: Home of 19th century liberal thinkers

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Women’s rights and the abolitionist movement, controversial and emotional subjects in the Victorian nineteenth century, sparked lively discussions at Nook Farm, an exclusive enclave in Hartford, CT, where some of America’s foremost liberal thinkers gathered to confront these issues.Harriet Beecher Stowe, a Nook farm resident, wrote Uncle Tom’s Cabin, which became one of the turning points in the movement to abolish slavery. The Stowe Center Library’s documents on African-American History trace the attitudes prevalent at the time, and even includs pro-slavery publications.The library’s extensive manuscripts and letters in the area of women’s history illustrate how Harriet Beecher Stowe and her sisters, forceful advocates of women’s rights, along with 100 letters from Susan B. Anthony, responded to the challenges facing young women of the day. The library includes an extensive collection of works by renowned ministers Lyman Beecher, Harriet’s father, and Henry Ward Beecher, her brother.Another famous resident, Mark Twain, spent 20 of his most productive years at his home on Nook Farm, where everyday brought new visitors and intellectual discussion, along with billiards, card games, and musical productions by his daughters.A visitor center and the Twain and Stowe houses are open for touring, and you can stroll the grounds in the footsteps of some of America’s great thinkers.Harriet Beecher Stowe Center, 77 Forest St., Hartford, CT 06105. (860) 522-9258. From I-84 take exit 46, Sisson Ave., north to Farmington Ave. Turn right to the parking lot opposite Woodland St.

Out of the way places: Lee’s Ferry Campground, Arizona

Legend has it that when one of the wives of a Mormon settler came west to this spot on the Colorado River, she declared, “Oh! What a lonely dell!” Hence, the name of the new homestead came to be–and continues to this day–Lonely Dell. For RVers, a lonely spot away from the crowds might just be what you’re looking for. You’ll find a quiet campground alongside a beautiful stretch of the Colorado, not far from Page, Arizona.

Not dubbed with the homestead’s name, rather, Lee’s Ferry is what the Park Service has monikered this 54 site campground. A number of the sites border right on the cliff-side of the river, giving wonderful views of the rolling water, dotted with occasional passing rafters, as not far away is the “put in” for many Grand Canyon float expeditions. It’s said this is a good spot for experienced fishers to maybe pull in a big trout, but we’ve never tried. Rather, we find Lee’s Ferry a place to pull in, set up camp, and just unwind for several days.

The National Park Service charges what seems to be reasonable $12 a night fee for this no-hookup-but-flush-toilets-available campground. Of course, with the appropriate pass in your possession, you can knock that fee down to just $6 a night. If you’re enthusiastic, you can do a self-guided tour of the Lonely Dell ranch site and imagine hand-watering the garden and orchards as the original family did.

Getting There: From Highway 89 near Page, go northeast on Highway 89A. Cross the Navajo Bridge over the Colorado. At Marble Canyon take the Lee’s Ferry Road north about 5 miles to the campground.

All photos: R&T DeMaris

Rest stop at the end of the long Interstate 70 to Colorado


There’s a long, pretty stretch of highway that many RVers find themselves on. It runs from Nevada, across Utah, and on into Colorado. But as you cross I-70 through Utah, you may find places to dump those tanks few and far between. If you can hold it until you make it east across the border into Colorado, there’s a “welcome” spot at the Welcome Center in Fruita.

The Welcome Center caters to RVers here. You’ll find long, easy, pull-through sites where, if you don’t mind a bit of freeway noise, spot over the night. A well-designed dump station stands ready to take away your burden, and separate fresh water taps will refill your tanks. With in an easy walk are shops, a dog walk area, and goodness gracious, even an Internet cafe. You’ll even find free coffee at the visitor center, and it’s said free Internet access, although we didn’t physically confirm that on our visit.

Access can be a bit confusing–from the interstate simply look for the Welcome Center signs. But once you pop off the highway and the ramp, you’ll encounter a roundabout. Not everyone in the world of traffic understands how to negotiate (or share) a roundabout (or “traffic circle”) so watch out for the other guy. Keep your eyes peeled, as signs in the roundabout will direct you to the correct jump off spot for the Welcome Center.

Powerful waterfalls showcased at newest national park

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Paterson Great Falls National Historical Park on the Passaic River in Paterson, New Jersey is America’s newest national park. It features the second-most-powerful waterfall east of the Mississippi at the spot where Alexander Hamilton founded the country’s first planned industrial city.

According to the U.S. Geological Society, “the potential power of the Great Falls of the Passaic River so inspired Alexander Hamilton that he organized the Society for Establishing Useful Manufactures. Pierre L’Enfant, the planner of Washington, D.C., designed a complex three-tired system that harnessed the falls and supplied water power to several mills. The city of Paterson became a thriving industrial center known for the manufacture of silk and locomotive parts. Today, the old industrial complete has been partially restored.”

The creation of the new national park not only honors and preserves Paterson’s past but should also brighten its future. One federal agency has ranked Paterson as the most economically distressed city in the United States.

The park covers 35 acres, 15 miles west of New York City. The adjacent area is home to the largest and best example of early manufacturing mills in the United States with 18th, 19th, and 20th-century waterpower remnants. The 77-foot-tall falls engineered raceways and mills to form a complex that is unique in the United States.