A while back I was looking for a coupler lock for my travel trailer when a friend, who happened to be in the hitch business, recommended the Reese trailer hitch lock. I have been successfully using it ever since.
My friend rightly pointed out that the lock that can completely theft-proof your trailer does not exist and that a determined thief will always have a way. Therefore, it becomes about deterrence and getting the thief to move on to an easier target.
He pointed out several things about this lock that made it especially attractive. I can concur and they are included in my reasons for why I like it below.
What I like about the Reese trailer hitch coupler lock
• It’s sturdy and well-made.
• The way the lock works, it’s impossible to get bolt cutters around it.
• It’s inexpensive.
• It’s small (8 x 1.2 x 5.5 inches).
• It works to ensure the coupler stays closed while driving and can also be used when unhitched.
• Comes with two keys.
What can be improved?
It took me a bit to get used to how the key turns, but now that I am used to it, it’s easy. When I first got the lock it was a little stiff, but it has loosened up with use.
The only other problem I have had is user error and no fault of the product itself. The Reese trailer hitch coupler lock I currently own is my third one. Why? Because I used to be in the bad habit of setting it down while unhitching and doing the accompanying camp setup tasks, forgetting about it, and driving off with it on my bumper—never to be seen again.
I now make a point of relocking as soon as I move the truck out from under the trailer—problem solved.
Order the Reese trailer hitch lock for a great price from Amazon.
##RVT1149
I have been using this very same lock since I started RVing 28 years ago. Still using the original lock. GREAT VALUE
I didn’t know these Reese locks existed. When I’m towing my utility trailer, I always use a long hasp padlock in the trailer lock. Not only does it prevent theft, but it also protects against the trailer coming unhitched while in tow. I’m not sure if a long hasp padlock is cheaper than a Reese or not, but it is an option. 🙂
I store my utility trailer in a barn on my property. I always store it with the padlock in place to prevent theft. After having two utility trailers stolen (while living in Atlanta) I guess it’s habit that I still use one at my current rural home in Alabama though likely not needed here.
You can easily cut through a padlock, not so easy with this.
I used these on my previous trailers. Unfortunately it is not wide enough for my newer trailers.
I use a simple spring hasp safety coupler pin while towing. I use a imitation towball lock when unhitched. And I put a hasp lock through the tow chains behind the tongue jack to make them too short for a thief. When the owner uses just a coupler pin lock, the thief can use a too small ball or a vertical pin, or just the safety chains to get the trailer away from its parking spot. Then using a cordless drill and a cylinder puller (which makes a bit of noise) remove the locks for a secure hook up. I make it harder to use the coupler or chains to make that initial run.
For what it is worth, every bank has someone fairly good at breaking in to a safety deposit box. It truly takes two different keys to get into a box and the bank only has one. If the box renter loses his or hers, the bank has to extract the lock cylinder – as a former bank officer, I learned how to get physical with locks. 🙂
Is that lock the same as this lock? Because this is how you open it with a 30 cent nail file.
https://youtu.be/nkRRz2XU_k8?si=V4BtVVxbcJlPnGKD&t=143
I just got a trailer and was considering this, or some very similar style ones for my Coupler Pin Lock. But a lot of reviews about it rusting locked onto the trailer, and some saying it started just falling apart. That would be a royal pain. So I wound up ordering a Deadbolt Locks RC6-SS. I have (2) Deadbolt Locks Trailer Receiver Tongue locks we got when we first got the MH in April 2012. They still work like new. So hopefully this Coupler Lock will last long too.
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Coupler-Locks/etrailer/e98890.html
I did a lot of research on this subject. I concluded that the Proven Industries hitch lock is the most robust, and the one that provides the most visual deterrence. A thief would have to lay on his back, or be on their knees bending over to even see the lock mechanism. Although the mechanism is not totally pick proof, it’s a 7 pin lock. If I looked at the lock I’d think I’d need a torch to remove it. I agree with the post that a 30 cent nail file will remove the advertised lock. So will a battery powered grinder. I recommend RVT not advertise a product unless they have done research.
Got one of these with the puck lock…a monster of a lock that encases the end of the hitch making it unusable as a connection for towing. Plus , you can incorporate the tow chains to make them also unusable. Great insurance to keep the trailer as yours
Thank you, Cheri! Glad that you stopped losing them. Inexpensive times X-times lost can become expensive. 🙂 Safe travels! 🙂
I have seen a lot of rv’s using this and similar locks. Quite a few have left the lever in the upright position and putting the lock though the hole in the lever. This leaves the coupler wide open.
Another good secondary idea is to use a steel cable through the holes in the wheel and loop it over the axle and use a high quality pad lock. Basically out of sight and when someone tries to pull the trailer, the wheel will not turn. Cables are harder to cut than chains.
https://www.bing.com/th?id=OPHS.61%2b23MV8W0W0hA474C474&o=5&pid=21.1&w=140&h=140&qlt=100&dpr=1.4&bw=6&bc=FFFFFF&c=17