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All RV outlets work except the galley top and bottom. Why?

Dear Dave,
The outlet at the RV’s dinette is dead, as is the one in the overhead cabinet directly above it. All others work. The circuit breakers at the control center at the foot of the bed are hot. Somewhere between the two is mostly hidden and inaccessible. What do you think? Thanks. —Jack, 2017 Winnebago Via 25P

Dear Jack,
I love the Winnebago questions as I can go to the website and get 3D drawings as well as wiring and plumbing diagrams for every model in the owner resources tab. Here is what I found for the 120-volt wiring of your Via.

The RV outlets are powered by the distribution center and the dedicated circuit breaker. A 14-2 brown wire first goes to a 110v connection below the floor and then to the 1000w inverter located in the compartment directly in front of the entrance door.

A Winnebago diagram of RV outlets

From the inverter, it is wired to another 110v connector below the floor and then the receptacle in the bedroom for the satellite prep and one for the bedroom TV receptacle. Then it is run to another 110v connection box located under the wardrobe, and ganged from there to the TV receptacle, Sat Prep, and then the lounge receptacle. This makes sense as the TV is located on the back wall of the slideout dinette booth.

Connector in wardrobe extends and retracts

With the 110v connector located in the wardrobe which is part of the slide, it would extend and retract, which could have created some resistance and pulled apart creating an open situation where nothing downstream would have power. These are not GFCI circuits as those come off the distribution panel on a separate circuit breaker and go to the bathroom, exterior, and galley receptacles.

With the line going to the inverter first, it would have a transfer switch that automatically connects 120-volt power from the distribution center when connected to shoreline power or a generator to the outlets. It is basically a pass-through feature rather than pulling 12-volt power from the batteries and providing 120 volts through the inverter to the outlets.

Where to start testing

I would start at the inverter and verify there is 120-volt power to the inverter, then follow it to the bedroom TV receptacle. You can use a simple non-contact voltage tester at the receptacle or even just touch the wire along the way.

Check an RV outlet with a non-contact voltage tester

If there is no power there, then you need to look at the inverter or the circuit breaker in the distribution center. If there is power, follow the line farther down and verify power to the connector under the bed, then to the connector under the wardrobe. Notice there is a “flex” cord, as this is the wire that needs to move with the extension and retraction of the room. If you have power to the connector under the wardrobe but not to the remaining outlets, it is most likely a bad outlet just after that. These can go bad and not provide power to and from, so it would need to be replaced.


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Dear Dave,
We had an electrical problem with our Alpine 3250RL 5th wheel. My husband, John, found most of the problem and fixed it, except for the outside receptacle and the kitchen island receptacle. Those two outlets still don’t work. —Linda

Read Dave’s answer.


Dave Solberg is a leading expert in the RV industry and the author of the “RV Handbook.”

Read more from Dave here

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Dave Solberg
Dave Solberghttp://www.rv-seminars.com/
Dave Solberg is a leading expert in the RV industry and author of the “RV Handbook” as well as the Managing Editor of the RV Repair Club. He has been in the RV Industry since 1983 and conducts over 15 seminars at RV shows throughout the country.


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Thomas D (@guest_216846)
10 months ago

What is throw in wire? Romeo 14/2 is white. Is that brown a tape put on by Winnebago to identify that particular cable?
Don’t forget to tell people that rv’s don’t use outlets that screw wire on connections but are simply pushed into the cable. Very bad connection especially if using high current. Seen a lot of them burnt. Like the guy said non contact testers only tell you if power is there no neutral, still flashes tics. Not dependable!

Mike (@guest_216825)
10 months ago

“The circuit breakers at the control center at the foot of the bed are hot”

I would hope the author is indicating the breakers are supplying power and not “hot” by temperature.

Brian (@guest_216823)
10 months ago

A non-contact tester only tells 1/2 the story, a circuit can have an open neutral and will not power anything but the non-contact tester will still ring. We only use the NC testers for an initial assessment, and to help prevent a shock. Real test instruments must be used after an initial assessment that may include a NC tester. An amateur looking for power at an outlet should at least plug in a working lamp, if the lamp doesn’t work then apply the NC tester. If the NC tester rings but the lamp didn’t work then you know it’s the neutral. If neither one works you know it’s the line.

Bob p (@guest_216792)
10 months ago

You state to check if there is AC power to the inverter. In my experience power comes from the inverter after being inverted from DC to AC, I think you meant to say power from the inverter. Lol

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