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Making your first RV trip with your dog

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Making your first RV trip with your dog

Taking your dog on an RV trip can be rewarding for both you and Fido but it requires planning. Only non-aggressive dogs should be brought along. For first timers, plan a shorter trip so Bowser can get used to being away from home. That way, the trip can be ended early if needed. Stay close to home and give your dog extra attention.

When making a reservation, mention your pet. Some parks will offer a campsite farther away from busy areas. Others have a restriction on the number of pets allowed. Many parks require proof of vaccines against rabies and Bordetella. So call ahead to confirm. It’s a good idea to carry copies of vet records with proof of all current vaccines.

One veteran dog-camper carries a notebook of places where it’s safe to stop with dogs. Her notes include rest areas, dog-friendly parks, schools and other places.

Be sure licenses and contact information are included on pets’ collars. Don’t forget food and water dishes, an extra collar and leash, medicines or supplements, brushes, tie outs, shampoo and something from home like a toy or blanket. If a dog is comfortable sleeping in a crate at home, bring it. Owners of small dogs may also consider an outdoor pen where their dog can stay while they are all together in the campground (but never leave the pet there when you’re away: wild animals could prey on it).

Photo: Vicki Watson and her dog Katie.

Beware: RV awnings can become missiles

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It’s a good idea before hitting the highways this spring to give your RV a thorough maintenance inspection and make any necessary repairs. One of the cautions almost every RV manufacturer, insurance company and consumer group recommend is to make sure your awning is stowed and locked.

If that awning comes loose from your RV, it can become a dangerous projectile to others. In 2004, Terry Bassett was driving home in Alabama when an awning broke loose from a horse trailer ahead of him, struck his vehicle and killed him. In 2010, Ginger McSween was returning from a writers’ conference in Pensacola when an awning billowed and separated from an RV. The fabric roller tube assembly flew into her lane of traffic and went through her windshield. It struck her in the face, severely fractured her jaw, knocked out most of her teeth, and fractured her vertebra. She has survived and has undergone multiple complex surgical and medical treatments. She is still undergoing treatment according to her attorney Bill Cunningham.

Awnings should be designed to withstand wind gusts that can be expected on the highway. Before any trip, a walk-around to check the vehicle and component parts is always necessary. A detailed re-inspection should be done periodically and before any extensive trip. Some of the safety features to prevent separation are not seen by the naked eye. Because not all potential problems are obvious, an inspection of the component parts by a qualified mechanic should be performed periodically.

Originally published in the Mobile, Alabama Legal Examiner.

Take care with your RV generator

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Got a “built in” RV generator? Don’t have to “plug and unplug” shore power cords when switching from shore power to the genset? Then you have an ATS (automatic transfer switch). They’re convenient, indeed, as the rest of us without them have to go outside, typically open a door, and plug the shore power cord into a special receptacle fed by the genset.

However, there are a couple of caveats you need to be aware of: An ATS is not a “perfect” device and problems can occur. Here’s a good rule when firing up the generator when using an ATS. In fact, this is a good rule when firing up any RV generator, ATS or not: Reduce power consumption before firing up the generator. That means, make sure the air conditioner, the microwave oven, the portable electric space heater — any of those “big draw” devices are turned off.

A big surge in electrical current can actually damage an ATS, and in some cases, the genset itself. There have been cases, too, when the ATS somehow wasn’t fast enough to isolate the generator from the shore power system — with very nasty and sometimes expensive results. Take the extra moment to reduce your power consumption before you hit the start switch.

How to keep the condensation out of your RV

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How to keep the condensation out of your RV

By Russ and Tiña DeMaris

One of the banes of winter RVing is the buildup of humidity in a rig. Cooking, taking showers and running non-vented LP heaters like Blue Flames and catalytic units build up the amount of water vapor in the air. Result? Nasty slickness that can promote mold growth.

To reduce condensation, first reduce the amount of water vapor in your environment. Cooking? The more you cook, the more moisture is released. So keep it down and use the range hood fan. Showering? Crack open the bathroom roof vent to release some of the moisture. Need hot water? When it starts boiling, turn off the burner immediately.

Keeping the air in your RV circulating will also help. If you’re plugged into shore power, a small fan will help and even out the temperature in your rig making it easier to keep warm (huge fans used by orange growers increase the temperature about two degrees, sometimes saving a crop from freezing). If you’re away from shore power, a 12-volt fan kept on low will move the air with little battery power.

Dehumidifiers pull moisture out of the air. Mechanical ones are rated by the amount of pints of water they can remove in a day. A 50-pint unit is plenty big for an RV, but can make noise. You’ll also need to dump the device when it fills.

Other dehumidifiers work without motors and claim they don’t have to be drained. How? Says an advertisement, “Air-Dryr tackles moisture by drawing in cool, damp air through its bottom panel. Once the air is heated to the point that moisture is held in suspension, it’s released through the perforated top surface.” We’ve never tried one of these and perhaps we’re wrong, but it sounds like hocus-pocus. There are several air dryers (including Air-Dryr) available on Amazon, mostly with 4.5 star ratings.

Keeping a couple of windows cracked can help. Many RVers use Maxair Vents, which allow keeping a roof vent open without rain coming in.

Best recipe for killing off condensation? Move to someplace less humid!

How to repair an RV roof on the cheap

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We’ve mentioned our love for EternaBond repair tape for years at RVtravel.com. Leaks in your RV’s roof are a major headache, and RVers have tried (and continue to try) just about anything to stop them. Pour on some sealant, stick on some duct tape; we’ve seen folks who’ve even tried using old tire inner tubes. Forget all that!

Screen Shot 2016-04-07 at 8.37.58 PMAs we’ve often written, EternaBond can help you make a repair on just about any kind of RV roof material in a hurry. EternaBond is a micro sealant tape that installs simply. Clean up the area to be repaired, cut off the correct length of the tape, peel off the backing, press the tape down on the repair area and rub the dickens out of it. It works — and it lasts.

The problem is the darn stuff costs a lot. Most stores, online and off, will sell you a roll of EternaBond, 4 inches by 50 feet for a stiff $70 to $90. It tends to make one shy away from this fine product, and then leaves the same person grumbling when the feel of the drip, drip of a rain leak late at night.

We searched around, however, and found many sizes available at Amazon at a far lower price. You might want to pick up a roll . . . just in case.

Watch a video by Gary Bunzer, the RV Doctor, demonstrating how to use EternaBond to fix a roof leak.

Read more from Gary Bunzer at the RVdoctor.com.

#rvd737; #rvt743

Fire extinguisher alone is not always enough to prevent disaster

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Losing an RV to a fire is a terrible thing. Losing your life to an RV fire is even worse. But a little prevention could save your rig — even your life.

Every RV is equipped with at least one fire extinguisher, and experts recommend several. But a sad experience from North Dakota highlights that having a fire fighting tool isn’t enough. Regarding an RV fire in a rural area, the local Fire Chief had this comment about the RV owner: “She had trouble getting the fire extinguisher off the wall bracket, which could have otherwise possibly mitigated the damage.”

Mitigated damage? In this instance, the owner was able to get out of the rig — but that was it. Unable to get the extinguisher loose from the mounting bracket, she could not put out what had started as a small fire in the kitchen — evidently lunch just got away.

What about you — and your traveling companions? Does everyone who travels in your RV know how to get the fire extinguishers loose from their mounting brackets, and then how to use them? It could make a huge difference in whether a small fire is a nasty weekend-ender, or a total loss claim.

Choose from a wide selection of fire extinguishers at Amazon.

Where to dump your RV holding tanks

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An essential chore for RVers is dumping their holding tanks. It sounds unpleasant, but if done right it’s quick, easy and not messy. The question is where to do it. There are fewer dump stations all the time — many of those sponsored by local and state governments have shut down because of budget squeezes or because of abuse by users. So it may take some creativity to find one. Here are some common places:

Highway rest areas
These have always been convenient. Keep your eyes open as you drive. If you come across a rest area with a dump station, take advantage of the opportunity even if not absolutely necessary. It could be awhile before you have another chance. These are almost always free.
Public campgrounds and parks
State, national and federal parks are still great places. If you camp, there is almost never a fee. If you don’t, then prepare to pay about $5 to $10.
Commercial RV parks
If you stay, the dump is free. But if you need to simply dump and run, it will cost you $5 to $15. Most KOA campgrounds offer such a service. Their parks span North America. Stop at one and pick up a free directory.
Local government sewage treatment plants
You may have to do some research to find these, but once you do, make a note so you can return again.
Truck stops
Flying J has always been a favorite place. Nowadays, many are charging a fee. Still, when your RV has “gotta go” this may be the only option for miles. Check other truck stops, too.
Service stations
Keep your eyes open. Many still offer the service, and for free.
RV dealers
Most have a dump station. Ask. They may charge you, but maybe not.
However. . . never do this!
Never dump by the road or down a street drain. It’s illegal and creates a serious health hazard. If you get caught, you’ll pay a stiff fine and even land in jail. RVers who use environment-friendly soaps may be able to dump their gray tanks (from shower and sinks) in certain areas with permission of the landowner. But never, ever dump a sewer tank except at an official disposal site!
Finally. . .
To help locate dump stations, pick up The RVers Guide to Dump Stations, a comprehensive guidebook to public facilities across the USA, at Amazon.

How to keep your clothes from falling in the closet as you drive

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If only the hangers in our RV closets would stay put like the ones at home! Well, they would if we would just stop driving around, bouncing and jolting them as we drive down the highway. What happens, of course, is our shirts and jackets often end up bounced right off the rod into a heap on the floor. This is not good! Most of us know first hand. Now, fixing our highways so we don’t bounce around so much isn’t easy. But keeping your clothes hanging in your closets is easy as pie!

Stay Put Hangers grip the closet bar instead of slide, and will not bounce off while an RV is happily rolling down the road, chuck holes and all. They will keep clothes neat and off the closet floor where they don’t belong and they are sturdy enough for the heaviest parkas and musher coats.
You can get a six-pack of Stay-Put hangers at Amazon for under $7.

Inverter problems can ruin your day

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By Steve Savage, Mobility RV Service

If you own a diesel pusher, odds are that you have an on-board power inverter. Not only does the thing charge your batteries, it also converts battery power to shore power for appliance use when you’re away from the grid and don’t want to use your generator.

Since the inverter doubles as a battery charger when tied to shore power or running the generator, a frequent question is this: What happens if the inverter stops working? Happily, you can keep your batteries charged by running your coach engine. Trouble is, if the transfer switch inside the inverter fails, you may no longer have “shore power” to run stuff like your microwave oven or entertainment center. This is because some power outlets may be fed through the inverter, regardless of whether you’re on battery power, on generator, or plugged into an outside source of shore power.

One work-around: Use extension cords inside the coach to temporarily plug into outlets that are still “hot.” Can’t find any? You may be plain out of luck until you can get your inverter repaired. Like so many things in high-end RVs with lots of high tech, inverters are great when they work, and a bust when they don’t.

What octane is best for your RV or tow vehicle?

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By Russ and Tiña De Maris

It’s a question that stirs up a lot of feelings, but first the factoids: The “octane rating” listed on a fuel pump is a measure of the ability of gas to reduce engine knock. “Regular” must have a minimum octane rating of 87; mid-grade from 88 to 90; and premium needs a rating of 91 or higher. The higher the rating, the slower the fuel burns, preventing “knock” when engine cylinder pressures are high.

When an engine runs at full throttle, cylinder pressures are naturally at a high level; you can expect a bit of knock then. Towing a rig, particularly when climbing a steep hill, calls for higher cylinder pressures resulting in some ping. But prolonged engine knock can cause damage. Fuel injected gasoline engines automatically adjust for driving and performance conditions, squeezing the most mileage out of whatever gas you’re burning.

What gas should you use? As a rule of thumb, fuel up with the octane grade your manufacturer recommends. Pumping in premium or even mid-grade gas when your vehicle calls for regular won’t improve fuel mileage or engine performance, but will reduce your wallet’s thickness. If you consistently have knocking issues while towing, you may want to consider pumping in a higher octane fuel. We say “may” with this caveat:

If your engine knocks or pings it isn’t necessarily the gas — it could be you have an engine problem needing work. You could have electronic control systems, ignition timing, or exhaust gas recirculation problems. If you’re dealing with an older or high mile rig, it’s possible you have a build up of carbon in your cylinders causing the problem. Once engine problems are ruled out, consider pumping in the higher octane fuel. It won’t hurt your engine, and if knocking vanishes, then you may find using higher octane fuel when towing helpful.

Gas with added ethanol can have an impact on your RVing. Ethanol, or grain alcohol – typically produced from corn – is often added to gas to reduce air pollution. Grain alcohol doesn’t have as much energy per gallon as gasoline, so your tow vehicle or motorhome will indeed use more gas per mile driven. Industry says you may see a three percent drop in fuel economy with the use of 10 percent ethanol, many drivers say they lose a lot more. If you fill up without ethanol, or at least less than 10 percent ethanol, you’ll get better fuel economy.

WaterLogic hybrid provides safe drinking water to RVers

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Contaminated water is worrisome for the general consumer but it has created a special dilemma for RV travelers. RVer’s draw water from unfamiliar sources and then they must deal with what can happen to the water once it is inside their holding tank.

water-737Most RV’ers stock up on water bottles or purchase high price filtration systems and let their water worries float away. But should they be putting down their guard? Is that water free of contaminant? The answer is NO!

Waterlogic, a water purifier company that provides corporate units for companies like Google, Yahoo! and Microsoft, have created the Waterlogic Hybrid – a plug-in countertop water purifier. This is the solution for RVers water worries.

“Most consumers don’t realize that standard chlorine filtration actually encouraged contamination because it’s the only protection water has against bacteria and viruses,” says Moshe Gazit, Manger Director of Waterlogic’s Consumer Products Division. “When we filter the chlorine out of water and then leave it on the counter, or even in the fridge until we are ready to drink it, we effectively remove any protection it has.”

The Hybrid Home Water Purifier relies on three components to deliver the purest drinking water:

· A high quality active carbon filter absorbs chlorine, microbes and other contaminants.

· Unique Firewall Technology places a UV light inside a double helix made of quartz and encased in polished aluminum with a mirror finish. This Firewall maximizes the amount of time water is exposed to the UV light and the strength of that exposure in order to remove 99.9999% of bacteria and 99.99% of viruses.

· Finally, the entire reservoir and nozzle are treated with Biocote®.

The Waterlogic® Hybrid Home Water Purifier is now available at Amazon.

How long will canned food last in your RV?

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How long will canned food last in your RV?

By Bob Difley

How long can you safely keep canned food in your rig?

Most food authorities say canned food will last for two years or longer, but experts say that’s completely arbitrary. In reality, if a can’s seal is not broken it can last for many years longer. But to be on the safe side, follow these procedures for food stored for emergencies, or when trying to stretch a couple more days into your boondocking trips:

Write the date of purchase on the top of the can with a permanent marker.

Store in a cool dry compartment. RVers often deal with broader temperature swings than at home, but the cooler you can keep the cans the less chance they’ll have of overheating.

Before using, inspect the can for dents (a can with a large dent may have an invisible, broken seal), bulging (a bad sign — throw the can out immediately) and leaking.

Never eat canned food that has a strange odor, flavor or that spurts when it is opened.

The Food Reference website states: “Canned food retains its safety and nutritional value well beyond two years, but it may have some variation in quality, such as a change of color and texture. Canning is a high-heat process that renders the food commercially sterile. Food safety is not an issue in products kept on the shelf or in the pantry for long periods of time. In fact, canned food has an almost indefinite shelf life at moderate temperatures (75 degrees F and below). Canned food as old as 100 years has been found in sunken ships and was still microbiologically safe!”

In canned foods, preservatives are used to maintain quality. The canning process keeps it safe. If a product is correctly processed, it should remain safe until opened or the seal is broken.

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