Home Blog Page 2185

Beware of dangers lurking in re-frozen food

RV Staff
-
0
Beware of dangers lurking in re-frozen food

By Bob Difley

To be sure your refrigerator’s freezer is working properly, put an ice cube in a small cup in the freezer and look at it whenever you open the freezer door. If all is well, the cube will stay in its original form. However, if the freezer has quit for a period or is not working properly, the cube will have melted and you will have a frozen puddle instead of a cube.

If that happens, check your food. It’s not a good idea to re-freeze once-frozen food or even eat it due to spoilage if unthawed for awhile. It does not take long for a warmed freezer to breed microorganisms that multiply while the freezer is warm.

You can find Bob Difley’s RVing e-books on Amazon Kindle.

Fire fighting tools: Do you really know how to use them?

RV Staff
-
0

By Russ and Tiña De Maris

 

Losing an RV to a fire is a terrible thing. Losing your life to an RV fire is even worse. But a little prevention could save your rig — even your life.

Every RV is equipped with at least one fire extinguisher, and experts recommend several. But a sad experience from North Dakota highlights that having a fire fighting tool isn’t enough. Regarding an RV fire in a rural area, the local Fire Chief had this comment about the RV owner: “She had trouble getting the fire extinguisher off the wall bracket, which could have otherwise possibly mitigated damage.”

Mitigated damage? In this instance, the owner was able to get out of the rig — but that was the limit. Unable to get the extinguisher loose from the mounting bracket, she was unable to put out what had started as a small fire in the kitchen — evidently lunch just got away.

What about you — and your traveling companions? Does everyone who travels in your RV know how to get the fire extinguishers loose from their mounting brackets, and then how to use them? It could make a huge difference in whether a small fire is a nasty weekend-ender, or a total loss claim.

Truck stop fueling tips

RV Staff
-
0

By Russ and Tiña De Maris

 

If your RV runs on diesel, you may wonder about filling up at the truck islands. Some RVers feel a bit intimidated by the big rigs and professional drivers. Don’t be afraid, but do be courteous and things should go well for you.

First, remember for the truck driver, time is money. When you roll into the fuel island, be prepared to “get ‘er done” as quickly as possible. If you have a helper, send him or her inside with the credit card to pay. If you don’t, go in yourself and leave your card at the fuel desk. You’ll find many pumps don’t take credit cards, or if they do they’re usually limited to fleet cards.

If you have tank ports on both sides of your rig, don’t be afraid to use the satellite pump and the main pump at the same time. If your fuel port is on the side opposite the main pump, you’ll need to take the filler nozzle out of the cradle, set it on the ground, and flip the lever up to operate the satellite pump. Be careful when filling, the pumps on the big rig side pump MUCH FASTER than the consumer-style.

Clean your windshield? Sure, just do it while you’re fueling. Once the tank is full, stop window washing, pull WELL ahead of the pump island so the next guy in line can get in and start pumping. THEN finish paying, and complete your windshield ministrations.

If you need to make a purchase, or hit the rest room, move your rig to the parking area FIRST.

photo: Mountain/\Ash on flickr.com

How to clean your RV roof

RV Staff
-
0

Courtesy Dicor Products

 

RV owners should get their roofs cleaned at least twice a year to prevent damaging substances from getting too embedded and creating permanent stains. This also will help avoid mold and mildew that grow on organic matter attached to your roof. Especially if your RV is parked under trees for extended periods of time, your roof can be a ripe target for bird droppings, mulberry stains, tree sap, mold, mildew, fungus and the like.

For your cleaning technique, we suggest cleaning one manageable area at a time, such as a 3′ x 3′ section.

First, rinse the area with a hose or a power washer with a wide pattern nozzle and let it drain. Then spray on the cleaner and scrub with a medium bristle brush. Then rinse and move on.

If you are on the roof doing this, start in one corner and then move sideways to the other side and then down and sideways again to the side where you started and so on, working backwards to the other end of the RV. But be careful! Note that by working in such manageable areas, you can also handle the whole job from a ladder or scaffold without getting on the roof.

Lastly, if you have some stubborn stains, you can try mineral spirits, but with a BIG CAUTION: Do NOT use mineral spirits unless you carefully follow these directions. Mineral spirits is a petroleum distillate, and a rubber roof can react with swelling, deterioration and discoloring.

DIRECTIONS: NEVER pour the mineral spirits DIRECTLY ONTO THE ROOF! Always pour a SMALL amount on a soft cloth (less is best) and then use the cloth to scrub out the stain, using only as much as needed and wiping it up with another cloth when the stain is gone.

[Editor’s note: This information is provided by roof membrane manufacturer Dicor. While there’s plenty of “promotion” for their product included, some of the information and principles may be of assistance to our readers.]

RV smell bad after being closed up? Charcoal to the rescue

RV Staff
-
4
RV smell bad after being closed up? Charcoal to the rescue

To rid your RV of musty or bad smells after storage or after being closed up for a few weeks, place activated charcoal in disposable containers throughout your rig. Don’t use charcoal briquettes, which are not effective and are designed for burning not deodorizing. Activated charcoal is a much safer and effective product for deodorizing. You can buy it in many forms (loose, embedded in filters or as part of hanging deodorizers).

Another way to refresh your space is to use fabric softener sheets like you use in a clothes dryer. Placing them in drawers and cabinets will also give off a fresh, clean smell.

If you know where a smell is originating, use vinegar — which is safer than many commercial products — to neutralize the odor. Vinegar is also effective on pet accidents and for carpets. Stir a teaspoon of white vinegar into a pint of water (more vinegar for tougher jobs) and apply with a spray bottle. Blot the cleaned area and allow to air dry. Vinegar is effective as a general cleaner also.

And, of course, open up your RV’s windows and let Mother Nature do her bit to freshen up your wheeled home.

Selling your RV? Here’s help on consignment selling

RV Staff
-
0

by Russ and Tiña De Maris

 

How it works: You and the consignment operator agree on a sale price. From there, the dealer keeps anything above your minimum. The dealer may also require a “commission” or percentage fee of your “bottom line price.” You ask $5,000, the dealer keeps a percentage of the $5,000 — above what he sells the rig for. He may also require a “dealer fee” of a set amount.

Here’s how this might work out:
Your asking price: $5,000.00
Dealer sells the RV for: $7,000.00
Dealer commission percentage (10%): $500.00 (based on your asking price).
Dealer Fee: $50.00

Bottom line: Dealer gets $2,550.00; you get $4,450.00

No matter your “asking” price, the dealer will probably tell you it’s too high, that you’ll need to lower it. You can counter by doing your homework before bargaining. Check out Internet prices and NADA guides; walk RV dealer lots for a similar rig and try to establish a fair price. It’s subjective; we all tend to figure our “stuff” is worth more than the next guy’s. And watch out for crooks. “Fly by nights” are known to take RVs on consignment, sell them, take the cash and vanish. Before you consign, check with the Better Business Bureau and your state’s Attorney General for complaints.

Another shady trick: They have a buyer for your rig! But (“sigh”) the customer is offering the exact price that you want to walk away with. However, if you’d be willing to give us X-dollars for our trouble, we’ll waive the commission percentage. No, you won’t get your exact asking price, but hey, you’ve still sold that rig! The trick is, the customer came in with a good offer, above your asking price. The dealer is selling you a fish story to pad his pocket. Either refuse to buy it — don’t budge on your sales price, or tell the dealer you’ll come look at his “customer’s” signed purchase offer. If he refuses to show the order, you know there’s a problem. If it’s legitimate, you’ll need to decide whether the deal is worth it to you.

Whatever you do, always follow these guidelines:
•Make sure the deal is in writing and signed, and that you understand and agree to it.
•Who is responsible for insurance when the rig is on the lot? Your own RV insurance may not cover it.
•Who pays off title liens?
•Will you let the dealer accept a “trade in” as part purchase price? How will it factor into your bottom line?
•Who pays for repairs, detailing, transportation charges, advertising, storage, or other expenses?
•What happens if the dealer doesn’t sell your rig in the time you settle on?
•NEVER leave the title with the dealer until a sale is made and confirmed in writing — and you get a copy.

Some states have specific laws applying to vehicle consignment dealers. Check with the state’s Attorney General’s office.

photo: nateone on flickr.com

Why your tires don’t last longer

RV Staff
-
0
Why your tires don’t last longer

By Russ and Tiña De Maris

RVers depend on their RV tires — and they’re an expensive thing to replace. We’ve often talked about the matter of safety and RV tires, but this time will highlight finances and what you can do to cut costs.

tires-sm-746Industry experts, including tire-consuming fleet folks — all agree: “The largest contributing factor [to a tire’s life span],” says Pat Martindale, “is air pressure. It was years ago, and it still is today.” Martindale is a maintenance guru for Penske Truck Leasing, and gave this maxim to Light & Medium Duty Truck magazine.

Similar views are echoed by Michelin North America through their customer engineering support manager, Doug Jones. Jones says that under-inflated or over-inflated tires simply wear unevenly and prematurely wear out. Under-inflation can lead to zipper ruptures along the sidewall that lead to rapid deflation. As little as 10 pounds “under recommended pressure” can cause an increase in tire wear of seven to 15 percent. Over-inflate that big rubber roundie and you can look to see increased wear and tear on the center of the tire tread, a stiffer ride, and a lot less forgiveness when hitting ‘road hazards.’

You dually runners, listen up: Pressure between two tires in a dual set should not differ by more than five pounds. If the difference is bigger than that, one tire will be larger than the other, and the smaller one won’t roll nor deflect as it should.

Photo: kearnj on flickr.com

How to choose a campsite

RV Staff
-
0
How to choose a campsite
By Jose and Jill Ferrer

When you are lucky enough to pull into a campground or RV park where you can choose your site, here are some things to consider:Is the site level? An uneven site may present a challenge to your suspension, levelers and your patience.How are the hook-ups? Make it a practice to inspect the electrical, water and sewer hook-ups. Flip the breakers to ensure they’re in good working order. Inspect the electrical outlets: scorch marks or a white powdery residue might indicate a problematic connection. Inspect the water spigot to make sure it opens and closes properly. Spray a little bleach on the spigot to disinfect it. Check the sewer connection – standing water indicates a blocked or slow draining sewer system.

Where is the sun and what is its path relative to how the site is oriented? You may want to avoid a site where the sun will be beating down on your patio area, just when you want to be out enjoying the late afternoon and evening.

Where is the signal? If having satellite TV is important, then look for an unobstructed view of the southern sky. Remember that the tradeoff of no trees may mean no shade.

Where are the restrooms? If it makes a difference to you, look around.

Look at the traffic pattern within the campground. If you don’t want a lot of cars or foot traffic passing by then check it out as you make your selection. Or you might want to be right in the thick of things. If you do not want the glare of headlights in your campsite at night, camp on the inside of any curves on the campground road, not the outside.

Is there sufficient space? Ideally, you will have a site big enough for your tow vehicle and RV. Also consider the width of the site – for instance, when your RV is sitting level, will the picnic table fit or will it be sitting on a slope that renders it useless?

Jose and Jill Ferrer are the publishers of the website YourRVlifestyle.com.

Don’t trust your GPS!

RV Staff
-
0
Don’t trust your GPS!

by Chris Guld
GeeksOnTour.TV

 

We have several GPS devices, some are test units, some are our old standbys. Every time we encounter an issue with driving an RV on this country’s highways, we like to check out the various devices to see what they tell us to do. We often have two or three of them talking to us in different voices at each turn. We love it when they all agree. But not always.

After two harrowing experiences in New England with a tall motorhome and short bridges — a bad mix not indicated by any of our GPS units — we share some important lessons over our nine years of RV travels with GPS devices.

Consult a paper map periodically, just to see if what your GPS is telling you makes sense.

Review your day’s route in the GPS before you turn the key and start driving, especially the beginning — from the campground to the highway.

Learn how to see the entire day’s route in your GPS before following it. I’ve heard of people traveling six hours out of their way before they realized that the GPS was taking them to a different ‘Greenfield’ than their intended destination.

Always call your destination and verify your directions, or read the directions from the RV park’s website or directory listing. The local park owners or staff know better than the GPS devices! It’s that last mile that’s the most problematic.

Any time you find a routing issue that is not correctly identified in your GPS unit, communicate the problem to the manufacturer. Garmin provides a web form to report a map error. Google Navigation has an option at the end of your route to specify “Destination Not Here.” Microsoft Streets and Trips uses Navteq maps. Here is a Navteq form where you can report a map error. Rand McNally units have a button to “Tell Rand.” The more we all communicate with the manufacturers and map makers, the better the information will become.

Chris Guld and her husband Jim are “Geeks on Tour,” teaching RVers at rallies and seminars about computers, the Internet and other subjects.

Save water by washing in a dishpan

RV Staff
-
0

As RVers, it’s a natural for us to be a bit on the “conservative” side, after all, fresh water comes dear, and places to put waste water are just the same.

Most RVers recognize that when it’s dishwashing time, it’s best to wash in a dish pan, rather than in the sink. Why so? Because using a dishpan means you’ll usually use less water. Less fresh water consumed, less waste water produced.

Sometimes finding a dish pan that fits the RV sink is a bit of a trick. Here’s a source you might not have thought of: Ever had the misfortune of spending a day or two in the hospital? Nearly everyone receives a little plastic pan, and hey, it belongs to them! Got a friend in the hospital? Don’t let ’em leave without taking that little dishpan with them for your RV.

After you’ve washed your RV dishes up in that mini-pan, don’t just chuck it down the sink. If you’re boondocking (away from a utility hookup site), you’ll probably find your gray water waste tank is the first to fill up. To stretch your time before having to take off and dump the tank, dump your dishwater down the toilet. It won’t hurt your black water contents (or the tank) but it will “buy” you more time.

Easy way to keep a flashlight handy for an emergency

RV Staff
-
0
Easy way to keep a flashlight handy for an emergency


By Greg Illes

Everyone needs a flashlight at some time or another. Sometimes it’s almost an emergency. That’s why we all have one ready and handy — right? But lying in the back of the junk drawer is not the kind of ready/handy status we’d like. When things go “bump” in the night and we need a flashlight, NOW and no questions asked.

Use a common tool-holding clip (or gripping clip), available at hardware stores, which mounts with a single screw. These come in several sizes, to fit any reasonable flashlight barrel diameter. Find a place where it won’t get in your way or be an eyesore, and put your clip and your flashlight up there. It won’t rattle or fall behind the sofa while you’re under way. It will always be available, exactly where you left it, even in the dark.

RV’s have a lot of wood surfaces, so it’s easy to find mounting spots. If you later change your mind and want to move it somewhere else, the lone screw hole plugs easily with wood filler or caulk with no trace left behind.

Two locations are better than one, for both accessibility and backup. Don’t forget to put your light back after you use it, and to check the batteries before each trip.

 

Greg Illes is a retired systems engineer who loves thinking up RV upgrades and modifications. When he’s not working on his motorhome, he’s traveling in it. You can follow his blog at www.divver-city.com/blog.

Get a handle on your handles

RV Staff
-
0

If you are carrying several long-handled tools for maintaining your RV’s appearance, look into the Shurhold system where you will need only one handle. Among the company’s most practical tools are long handles which come in both fixed and telescoping sizes. This system quickly and easily allows you to snap more than 40 different accessories to the same fixed length or telescoping handle.

One handle can quickly snap to several different cleaning brushes, floor mops or scrubbers for removing black streaks. Headed down to the lake to catch some trout? Then add a few fishing or boating attachments like a net or paddle to your supply compartment.

In addition to RV cleaning products for the outside of your rig, you can use many of these same products to maintain the inside of the RV as well. Learn more at the Shurhold website.

1...2,1842,1852,186...2,228Page 2,185 of 2,228