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Not all TPO roofing is created equal

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[Editor’s note: This information is provided by roof membrane manufacturer Dicor. While there’s plenty of “promotion” for their product included, some of the information and principles may be of assistance to our readers.]

In 2011, some RV manufacturers started using new formulations of TPO (thermoplastic olefin) roofing material that has come into the RV marketplace. To stay on top of the situation, Dicor tested some of these new formulations against sealants currently available on the market. We found some TPO roofing membranes are not chemically compatible with on-the-shelf lap sealants. When these sealants are used on some new TPO membranes, bloating and disfiguration of the membranes results. This is mostly a cosmetic problem, and does not reduce the performance of the roofing material or sealant, but it’s something you probably want to avoid.

If your RV was built in 2010 or earlier, you needn’t be concerned. But, if you have purchased a 2011, 2012 or later RV model, and you need to do repair work that involves resealing the roof membrane, you should determine if your roofing is TPO or EPDM.

Important Notes:
•If your roofing is EPDM (Ethylene Propylene Diene Monomer), indicated by a colored top and black bottom, you can confidently use Dicor Lap Sealant.
•If your roofing is a solid color all the way through the membrane, or if it has a fleece backing, it is TPO.
•If your TPO has a fleece backing then regular Dicor Lap Sealant will probably be the right choice.
•But if your TPO does not have fleece backing then Dicor Ultra Sealant System should be used.

How to store a small vacuum in your RV

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By Jim Twamley

Vacuum cleaners come in various sizes and therefore the storage requirements differ. My wife and I use a DirtDevil hand-held vacuum because it’s small and we need to get on our hands and knees to get to the cracks and crevices anyway, so we get along just fine with this little jewel.

We store it in a plastic tub in an overhead cabinet. This keeps the cabinet clean and the cord out of the way. (We also store the toaster in one of these plastic tubs under the sink and it’s amazing to see how many bread crumbs it collects).

Most full time RVers we hang out with have learned this trick. You might want to try it.

Dry camping? Remember your batteries

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Dry camping? Remember your batteries

By Russ and Tiña De Maris

There’s a lot of beauty that can be reached only when “dry camping” or boondocking. If you’re new to the idea of RVing without hookups, here’s a good reminder regarding battery life.

RV batteries take a LONG time to charge, particularly if you’re trying to charge them with the typical RV converter-charger. Here’s a scenario: “I’ve been out here a couple of days and my lights started going dim. So I fired up the generator and it’s been running for hours, but my battery is still low!”

The standard “factory equipped” converter-charger rarely sends more than 3 or 4 amps to the battery when “shore power” or generator power is available. At that rate it can take many, many hours to really charge up the RV battery. If you don’t have solar or wind power and don’t have a built-in high current charging system, here’s how to make your RV generator help out:

Use a fairly high current freestanding battery charger — like you’d pick up at an auto parts store — and hook it directly to the RV “house” battery — the one that operates your interior lights and water pump. If you need an extension cord, be sure to use a suitably “gauged” (heavy enough) cord for the charger.

Light up your RV with magnetic LED lights

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By Jim Twamley

I was in WalMart with my camera and spotted these LED lights. Who else but yours truly would remove these from the packaging and risk arrest by the security guards? I do it for your readership, of course.

The lights come two in a package and are magnetized so you can easily use them hands free. I’m thinking that if you have a metal plate in your head you could just use this instead of the strap on kind of LED light. How convenient is that?

Each light has an on/off switch on the case. They are sold under the “Bell” brand and are powered by 4 “AA” batteries. They are sold as truck bed lights, but they have bountiful potential applications for the RV lifestyle.

Bell has many other products, most related to 12-volt power, at its website. Many of them would come in handy for RVers. Amazon has a huge assortment of magnetic LED lights.

How to prevent your solar panels from being stolen

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How to prevent your solar panels from being stolen

By Russ and Tiña De Maris

Reports from around the sunny side of the nation show that theft of solar panels is on the increase. Some brazen thieves are marching into yards and removing the precious panels from sticks and bricks homes, but RV solar panels are attractive as well. If you’ve purchased a solar panel, you know they’re an expensive item. What can be done to keep your solar panels where they belong?

Tamper resistant screws are a possibility. Requiring a removal tool unlike any Phillips head or “star drive,” these unusual screw heads can confound the casual crook. However, many hardware stores are now carrying tools to remove even the “standard” uncommon screw.

At least one company is now offering custom tamper resistant nuts and bolts; with each order a custom designed bolt head and cone-shaped nut is sold to the customer — along with the corresponding installation and removal tool.

If it sounds a bit overboard, just consider how much your panels cost.

For more information on this line of security hardware, visit the Bryce Fastener website.

How to get rid of slideout squeaks

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By Russ and Tiña De Maris

Many an RVer has been driven to distraction by a squeaky slideout. There’s just something jarring to the nerves about this noise — perhaps it’s the same affliction that hits us when fingernails are drawn across a chalkboard. What’s to be done to exorcise those squeaks?

First, with your slideout extended, take a close look at the slideout support arms. If you spot any “wear marks,” it’s a good indication of a primary source of nasty noise. Grab a can of spray-on dry lube. Shoot the wear marks thoroughly, then using a clean, dry cloth, wipe down the excess. Dry lube sprays are preferable to “wet” lubes as they are less likely to attract dust and dirt. You’ll also find it useful to shoot the “teeth” on your slide out mechanism, if you have any.

Other anti-squeak tricks include ensuring that the squeak doesn’t emanate from contact between the slideout seal and the sidewall of the slide. With the slide extended, wash and dry the sidewalls, then apply the appropriate wax for the wall surface.

Photo: Wear marks on slideout arms. R&T De Maris photo.

Blacktop boondocking etiquette

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Blacktop boondocking etiquette

By Rene Agredano

From WalMart parking lots to visitor centers, asphalt camping is still allowed in most towns across America. However, property owners are increasingly prohibiting it thanks to the bad etiquette of sloppy RVers. To keep this overnight parking option alive, always practice good manners such as:

Remain Inconspicuous. Remember, you’re staying overnight, not setting down roots. Locate the most distant point in the parking lot, away from customers and delivery trucks. Don’t use awnings, patio chairs or barbecues. If you must use your slide outs, park alongside a wall so they aren’t sticking out into traffic.

Look Respectable. Let’s face it; first impressions are everything and nobody wants a homeless encampment on their property. Keep you and your RV neat, clean and respectable.

Try to Get Permission. If the parking area belongs to a retail establishment, go inside, buy a few things and ask to speak to the manager. If you’re parked at a restaurant, treat yourself to a meal. These are simple ways of saying “Thank you.”

Don’t Overstay Your Welcome. Keep your parking lot camping excursion to a maximum of two days to avoid a run in with the police.

Leave No Trace. From national forests to the urban jungle, the same code of camping ethics applies: pack it in, pack it out. Don’t put your jacks down (they dimple asphalt), and leave the area cleaner than when you found it.

Visit Rene’s website here.

Traffic accident? Your cell phone camera could save the day

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Traffic accident overtake you? First, make sure everyone is safe and that medical assistance isn’t needed. Then there’s the big paper exchange. Do you know the whats  — and hows —  of information exchange?

It’s a snap — literally. Most cell phone cameras have a high enough resolution to make recording paperwork images a natural. And when your adrenaline is pumping after an accident, there’s less likelihood of forgetting something or having the “trembling hand syndrome” leave you with notes that you can’t read.

Here’s the stuff you want good, close-up photos of:
Driver’s licenses
Vehicle registrations
Proof of insurance cards
License plates
Business cards (if available) of accident witnesses.

And, of course, accident scene photos. They should include:
Damage to vehicles
Vehicle positions
Weather conditions
Skid marks
Other unusual things having a bearing on the accident, say construction zones, detours, road hazards, and the like.

Don’t take risks when you take your photos, keep out of the way of traffic, and make your information exchange as quick as possible — reduce the likelihood of yet another accident. Contact your insurance company and let them know you have photos of the pertinent information. And it’s always wise to upload (or electronically transfer) your photos to your home computer for safekeeping.

A power inverter can save you on hookups

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A power inverter can save you on hookups

By Chuck Woodbury

A small power inverter like the one pictured can provide some household power needs without the use of a generator or a utility hookup. Most of my electric needs while traveling in my motorhome are minor — to power my laptop computer (and its portable printer and scanner on occasion), and to charge batteries of my other electronic devices — iPhone and camera batteries for the most part. For RVs without a built-in inverter, a device like mine comes in very handy, and saves money.

While my motorhome’s onboard 12-volt power system powers the lights of my coach, its water pump and heater fan, it isn’t good for much more. And that’s where my nifty little $30 power inverter saves the day. All I need to do is insert it into my RV’s 12-volt plug (be careful if you use the “cigarette lighter” in the cab as you can run the automotive battery down), and then plug whatever I need to power or charge into the inverter. The inverter converts the 12-volt power into regular household current. There is absolutely no noise (or maintenance) like a generator and no need to find an RV park just for the hookups.

Granted, it will not power a microwave or air conditioner — not nearly enough juice. But it will do just fine with items that require small amounts of power.

My first portable power inverter changed my life as an RVer by allowing me to have household power when shore power was not available. It has saved me thousands of dollars through the years in hookup fees and generator costs. These small devices can typically be purchased for $30 or less at any big box store. Here’s one at Amazon.com for under $30.

Prep meals at home for RV use

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By Tiña De Maris

Heading out for an RV trip and don’t want to spend too much time slaving over a hot stove on the road? A few “work a bit before you go, less while you’re gone” tips are in order. Nearly any soup, stew, or side dish can be worked up ahead at home, frozen, then kept on ice in the RV until you’re ready to use them. Thaw them in the refrigerator or in a microwave and finish them up on the stove. If you’re a home canner, make extra stew and soup, can it, and have it ready in the RV pantry.

You can get a jump on dry stuff, too. Don’t settle for “store bread,” you can put together the dry ingredients for home made bread, stuff ’em in a plastic storage bag, then add the wet stuff when it’s time to bake. Not just bread, but waffle, pancakes, biscuits, muffins, and cookies too!

Got a pasta meal or more on the menu? You can mostly cook pasta at home, bag it, and keep it in the RV refrigerator. No boiling water — just ‘nuke the pasta and serve. No power for the microwave? Heat it in hot water on the stove in less time than to cook-from-the raw state.

Grill time? Stick your meats in your favorite marinade at home, keep in a zip lock freezer bag in the RV ‘fridge. Alternative: Bag in marinade, freeze, and then thaw.

Eliminate smelly kitchen towels

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By Rene Agredano

If you’ve ever had an unpleasant whiff of mildew on a kitchen wash cloth or sponge, you know that humidity and a general lack of circulation in your RV is probably the culprit.  Kitchen towels are usually germ factories, but now they don’t have to be, thanks to a product called Skoy Cloths.

Skoy Cloths are made from a natural cotton and wood-based cellulose pulp. These eco-friendly, mildew-resistant clean up towels can replace any paper towels, rags or sponges around the RV. They’re so absorbent that using a Skoy Cloth is equivalent to using 15 rolls of paper towels in an average home. These mighty little towels dry within minutes, even in the dampest climates. This means bacteria doesn’t have any time to grow on them and cause odors.

Skoy Cloths are washable, but between washings you can disinfect them by sticking them in the microwave for 30 seconds. Each one will last several months until you need to discard it. And when it goes into the trash, you won’t clog up landfills because they are 100 percent biodegradable and will break down within five weeks.

RV kitchens and bathrooms are prefect for Skoy Cloths. Once you try them, you won’t want to buy regular household cleaning towels ever again. Skoy Cloths are an indispensable tool for any household, but especially for RVers. They are available at skoycloth.com or Amazon.

Visit Rene’s website here.

A better drain valve for your RV

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By Jim Twamley

Seems like the fresh water tank drain valves provided on RVs are just too wimpy and easy to break. Here’s a way to replace them with something with a little more “muscle.”

For fresh water tank drains you can use a standard 1/2 inch barbed hose connector with a 1/2 inch threaded male end attached to a standard garden hose valve. This is held in place by a hose clamp. Why a standard garden hose valve? When you drain the fresh water you’ll be able to attach a standard garden hose and water the trees or run it down the sewer instead of making a small lake under the coach.

Most RV manufacturers use cheap drain valves that seem to break after several uses. I had to replace valves on my travel trailers, fifth wheels and now my motorhome. You can use any combination of valves you like as long as you have room for the modification. I don’t use these drain valves that often, but when I do use them I want them to work properly. Hopefully someone from the RV manufacturing industrial complex will read this and say, “What a great idea — drain valves that connect to a standard garden hose — why didn’t I think of that!”

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