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Communication tips for backing up your RV

By Rene Agredano

Learning how to back up an RV is one of the biggest challenges that every RVer encounters. The following tips can make the back up procedure second nature for both driver and co-pilot.

First, use walkie talkies or cell phones to communicate. A walkie talkie that doubles as a weather radio is useful but cell phones can also be used.

Next, pre-determine which hand signals and verbal commands you’ll use. Handy terms such as “Driver side” and “Passenger side” are useful for indicating which way to point the rig’s back end. A raised fist signal can indicate when to stop.

Assess the parking area when you arrive at your destination. Look for obstructions that might block your slide-outs and be mindful of low-lying trees and boulders that can interfere with your turning radius, especially on the passenger side.

When the backup procedure begins, the co-pilot must be able to see the driver’s face in the mirror. Make consistent eye contact or else the driver cannot see the co-pilot’s signals.

Keep your backup speed as slow as a baby’s crawl. The co-pilot should be able to walk around the entire rig while it’s moving. Slow speed gives the driver enough time to react to an impending accident.

Finally, don’t yell. Yelling increases both parties’ stress levels and doesn’t help. If you follow these tips, you won’t need to raise your voice at all during your next camping adventure.

Radiant heaters: An alternative to RV forced air furnaces


By Greg Illes

Heating in most RVs is with a forced-air, propane-fired system. These heaters are effective at heating up the trailer or coach in short order but they have disadvantages. A forced-air heater is noisy and it uses a 12-volt driven fan to circulate air. If you’re not on shore power, a long cold day could deplete your battery.

An alternative is the propane ceramic (radiant) heater, which uses no fan. It’s a real boon when boondocking (pun intended) not to drain the battery, and the quiet heat is very pleasant. Most coaches don’t have built-in radiant heaters, but you can easily add one. Models are available in many sizes and prices. Small portables start at around $50, and the larger units run $150 and up.

These add-on heaters can be supplied from a small propane bottle, a bulk-style bottle, or plumbed into your propane system. (Propane in small bottles costs 20 times that of bulk, not cost efficient to use for high-consumption heaters.)

The amount of heat to keep your coach warm is less than what’s needed to quickly warm it. A forced-air unit takes 20 minutes to warm a 30-foot motorhome. If you use your forced-air heater just to warm things up, and then the radiant to keep it warm, you are win-win. You get warm quickly and then eliminate noise and battery drain. This way, a radiant can be sized at much lower capacity. Even a 6,000 BTU/hr unit can keep a 30-foot coach warm in most climates.

Some caveats for using the ceramic heaters:
•They all burn propane inside your coach and are not self-vented (like your forced-air unit). You MUST provide ventilation — a slightly-open window (1″ or so) usually does it.
•Be sure to purchase a unit with a thermal control. This will allow it to self-cycle on and off as needed.
•All units must have low-oxygen sensors (and your coach should have a CO monitor). But some people are still not comfortable leaving a radiant heater on while they sleep (I’m one of them).
•For fire-risk reasons, most people won’t leave the radiant heater on while they’re not in the coach.
•Despite these operational limitations, the radiant is a valuable tool for managing RV heating.

Editor’s note: Many authorities view having a “bulk-style” LP cylinder inside an RV a major safety hazard. A properly plumbed gas line to the RV’s low-pressure side is much safer.

Greg Illes is a retired systems engineer who loves thinking up RV upgrades and modifications. When he’s not working on his motorhome, he’s traveling in it. You can follow his blog at www.divver-city.com/blog.

Many uses for this multi-purpose power source

The Power Dome EX is a multi-purpose, portable and emergency power source that can be used as a power supply for several 110volt AC or 12volt DC applications when away from wired electrical power. Use it to operate computers, TVs, fax machines, fans, electrical tools, etc. You can also use it to start your car or RV engine when confronted by a dead battery.

It has a built-in 18 amp-hour maintenance free sealed high-grade lead acid battery.

Functions

– Portable & rechargeable power
– 2 AC outlets and 1 DC outlets
– 260 PSI air compressor
– 600 amp cranking power jump-starter
– 400 watt inverter
– 1000 watt surge
– Built-in radio with iPod™ input
– High intensity LED light

The Power Dome is able to power:

– Laptop(45w): 4.5hr
– Boom box (23w): 8hr
– Fax machine (15w): 18hr standby
– Camcorder (8w): 24hr
– Video Game (35w): 5.5 hours
– Portable Refrigerator:(45W) 4.5hr
– 13″ TV (59w): 3hr
– Power Drill (360w): 1hr

It has a built-in 18 amp-hour maintenance free sealed high-grade lead acid battery.

You can find the Power Dome at Amazon.com for about $130.

Dry your world with H2Out Space Dryers

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Actually, it is rocket science! A U.S. company has developed the space-age solution to keep your RV interior dry and fresh. With a rugged yet classy design, the H2Out® Space Dryers use a desiccant developed by NASA. This proven technology will prevent water condensation and contamination, eliminating corrosion, rust, mold, mildew, dampness and odors. Not messy, corrosive and toxic like other products. The H2Out® Space Dryer has many more applications and works while your RV or Trailer is in motion as well as stationary.

A renewable element means that it will last through hundreds of renewals. No mess to clean up, no hazardous waste to dispose. Place the Space Dryers in your interior to keep it dry . . . RV’s, Trailers, Trucks, Cargo holds, lockers, gun-safes, tool boxes, even freezers to prevent frost build up. Virtually any enclosed space can be protected. H2Out® Space Dryers come in a variety of sizes to meet any need.

When the H2Out® Space Dryer is new and dry, the interior desiccant is a cobalt blue color. The H2Out® Space Dryer will adsorb water molecules from the air, gathering the moisture and bonding to it. In time, this material will turn a pale pink color that indicates it is working. To reactivate your Space Dryer simply place the H2Out® metal element in the oven for 2 hours at 325 degrees F (160 degrees C). The pink will disappear and turn dark blue again, ready for re-use.

You can download the H2Out Space Dryer RV Brochure here.

You can find H2Out on Amazon.com or at the H2Out Systems website.

A renewable element means that it will last through hundreds of renewals. No mess to clean up, no hazardous waste to dispose. Place the Space Dryers in your interior to keep it dry . . . RV’s, Trailers, Trucks, Cargo holds, lockers, gun-safes, tool boxes, even freezers to prevent frost build up. Virtually any enclosed space can be protected. H2Out® Space Dryers come in a variety of sizes to meet any need.

When the H2Out® Space Dryer is new and dry, the interior desiccant is a cobalt blue color. The H2Out® Space Dryer will adsorb water molecules from the air, gathering the moisture and bonding to it. In time, this material will turn a pale pink color that indicates it is working. To reactivate your Space Dryer simply place the H2Out® metal element in the oven for 2 hours at 325 degrees F (160 degrees C). The pink will disappear and turn dark blue again, ready for re-use.

You can download the H2Out Space Dryer RV Brochure here.

You can find H2Out on Amazon.com or at the H2Out Systems website.

Want toast? Stove-top toasters save the day

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By Greg Illes

If you camp mostly hooked-up, you probably have an electric toaster which meets your needs. But there are many camp situations where an electric toaster just isn’t a viable choice. Maybe you’re not hooked up, and perhaps it’s quiet-time and you can’t run your generator (or maybe you just don’t want to listen to it).

Personally, I love a slice of toast in the morning, but I hate starting the day listening to the rumble and roar of my generator. Inverter power is a possible option, but an electric toaster at 900W will draw 80A from an inverter — four slices of toast can use up three to four percent of battery capacity. It’s always possible to pan-fry bread, but let’s face it, that’s fried bread, not toast. Besides, it’s just another dirty pan to wash.

Enter a delightful little product, the stove-burner toaster. These inexpensive, compact little tools can cook up a slice of toast in about a minute or so, with no battery impact and only a miniscule consumption of propane. There are multi-slice models from camp-equipment vendors like Coghlan and Coleman, but the best-working unit I’ve found is the single-slice device (models available from Primus, GSI, Chinook). These take longer to make multiple slices, but the results are very controllable and uniform. Besides, who’s in a hurry when camping?

To use one of these, un-fold it and place it over a stove burner. Light the burner, and adjust the flame and toaster position to produce an even dull-red-hot heat in the lower layer of the toaster. Using tongs, place a slice of bread on top of the toaster and count to 30 (maybe more or less, depending on your stove and personal preferences). Flip the slice over, repeat, done.

The one-slice units fold up as thin as a slice of bread, and come with a tidy little storage bag to be cleanly tucked away in the tiniest of RV rigs. And, at $10-$15, they don’t dent a wallet.

Greg Illes is a retired systems engineer who loves thinking up RV upgrades and modifications. When he’s not working on his motorhome, he’s traveling in it. You can follow his blog at www.divver-city.com/blog.

Overweight RVs: An industry and consumers’ problem

By Greg Gerber
editor, RV Daily Report

There has been a lot of discussion in recent years about overweight RVs. Most of the talk centers around RVers cramming too much stuff in their units and exceeding the vehicle’s weight rating.

Groups like Escapees Club and FMCA offer the opportunity to have RVs weighed at many events, and most who do have their RVs weighed are surprised at the results.

But, overweight RVs are not entirely the consumers fault. The RV industry shares much of the blame. I recall reading a blog a year or two ago where the writer noted their motorhome was designed to carry everything but people. I can’t put my finger on the post now, but the bottom line was that after weight for fuel, LP gas and fresh water was added into the mix, the family had just 400 pounds available for clothes, dishes — and people.

A few weeks ago, I was approached by Kimberly Travaglino, who is the founder of the nearly 1,150-member Fulltime Families group. She was very concerned about her Heartland fifth wheel after learning some interesting information about the unit. The fifth wheel is officially rated to hold 18,000 pounds, according to the labels affixed to her RV. However, she has since discovered:

  • Each of her three axles are rated for just 5,200 pounds — for a total weight carrying capacity of 15,600 pounds.
  • Furthermore, the leaf springs on her toy hauler are rated to carry just 12,000 pounds.

She was rightfully concerned that even if her family was diligent to keep the weight of the entire fifth wheel to just 18,000 pounds — the maximum weight rating — her family was exerting more pressure on the axles and springs than they were designed to bear. She asked what, if anything, could be done to shore up the structure. I immediately recommended MORryde because their staff has told me in the past they were the experts in RV suspensions, and their website boasts of that claim as well:

“At MORryde, we think of your RV as a house on wheels — one that needs a solid foundation to withstand the rigors of the road. For nearly 50 years, we’ve been delivering suspensions systems that protect this foundation. Considered the expert in suspension systems, we offer a variety of solutions, for every budget.”

Which is why Kimberly and I are both surprised the company would not even offer the courtesy of a response when we both sought confirmation that MORryde had products to help people in situations like this. Assuming that this is a very common problem in the industry, I even offered to do a story in RV Daily Report and Let’s RV on how effective the products were in addressing Kimberly’s weight issue. Crickets — no response at all.

While Kimberly and I were in the process of trying to find a solution to her weight issue, the family moved their RV from Cocoa Beach back down to Delray, Fla. They made it exactly one exit down Interstate 95 when her husband, Chris, spotted white smoke billowing out of the driver’s side wheel compartment. By the time he pulled over, flames were shooting out from the rear wheels, and burning perilously close to the toy hauler’s fuel tank.

Because they had been trained by Mac the Fire Guy to have fire extinguishers at each RV exit and in the tow vehicle, Chris was able to suppress the fire with a whole can of extinguisher foam.

THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED to a service center where the Travaglinos were told the axle bearings had locked up on the driver’s side rear tire. They are left to believe that this whole situation was caused because the fifth wheel toy hauler was rated for a certain capacity — which is why they bought it — but built with components that could not bear that much weight.

Kimberly is, perhaps, one of the RV industry’s greatest cheerleaders. Besides her own organization, her Facebook group has nearly 10,000 members. She is responsible for hundreds of people buying new RVs each year, if not for full-time living, then at least so families can experience many of the things her group does on a part-time basis.

However, she is constantly listening to horror stories from RV owners about defective products they bought. The problem has increased in recent years, she told me. She has been at her current campground for only a few days, and three of her neighbors have complained about product quality.  One can point to the RV roof peeling away and exposing lumber on a two-week-old travel trailer.

“I think the recession forced several high-quality RV manufacturers with commendable reputations out of business because they couldn’t compete against companies who build and sell RVs that are, for all intent and purpose, designed to be bought and stored,” Kimberly told me.

If anyone in the industry has a solution to the problem of overrated RV weights, and what can be done to help people who bought these RVs shore up their systems, Kimberly and I would welcome more information. Perhaps an RV dealer has jerry-rigged a solution that could be shared with others?

How to “reserve” your newly occupied campsite

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by Greg Illes

Everyone’s been there, perhaps many times. You found a good campsite, but you need to leave for a while. Whether it’s getting some groceries, going sightseeing, or just driving that annoying half-mile back to the entrance to register, you have to leave that (great or last) site vacant. Other campers are trouping by, eager for a vacant site. So how do you save “your” site?

If you only need to register, your traveling partner can stay behind. But if you’re both going out for an hour or the day, some other method is needed. Typically, a camp chair or a cooler will suffice to “mark your territory”, but these aren’t always noticed or heeded. I recall a time when we pulled into a site and got all situated, and the real occupant pointed out to us his “marker”, a camouflage jacket draped over the far picnic bench, virtually out of site of where we were. Poor technique, but we didn’t argue.

A really useful item to use for reserving your site is the collapsible traffic cone. These are sold in various auto and RV stores (and of course Amazon), for use as safety/emergency markers (a very good item to have handy in a roadside breakdown). They come in sizes from around a foot high, to more than two feet high, and they collapse into a 2-inch-thick square which packs away very nicely.

The cones are high-visibility orange, plus they have reflective bands which are easily seen at night (very useful when you arrive back at camp late and have trouble finding your own site). They also have that “mystique” of officialdom, and tend to garner a bit more notice and respect than the odd piece of camp equipment.

They have weighted bases, so they won’t blow away in a stiff breeze (unlike camp chairs). And at $10-15, if some rude traveler does make off with them, it’s not a major economic event.

Put one or two of these in the entrance to your campsite, and you will have to pick them up before you re-occupy the site. Using this technique, you’ll never leave them behind.

Greg Illes is a retired systems engineer who loves thinking up RV upgrades and modifications. When he’s not working on his motorhome, he’s traveling in it. You can follow his blog at www.divver-city.com/blog.

Improve your RV’s FM radio reception

by Russ and Tiña De Maris

 

In these really “high tech” days, the thought of FM radio may seem a bit “quaint.” Still, saving money is far from quaint, and those free FM radio signals are a lot cheaper to draw in than satellite radio. But one RVer recently asked us how he could add an antenna to his recently-purchased FM radio.

Many think “crank up” RV TV antennas are perfect for bringing in FM radio signals. Why so? In the “old days” of analog signals, the FM radio band rode in between TV channels 6 and 7. It’s still there, the trick is to coax the signal out of your coax — short for coaxial cable.

If your TV is hooked up to your TV antenna, then you’ll need a splitter. This little device allows you to add one more receiver to a single antenna connection. It’s best to look for a TV-FM splitter, and you’ll find one on the Internet, like this one.  You’ll also need a couple of additional pieces of coax cable with the appropriate fittings. One piece will attach to the “jack” that allows your TV to attach to the antenna, the other will go from the splitter to your FM radio. You’ll have to figure out just how long these two pieces of cable will be by looking over your own situation.

A look at the back of your FM radio will help you determine how to hook up the coax cable. For radios that allow the use of an external antenna, you’ll either see a fitting like that on the back of your television where the round coax fitting screws (or slides) on; otherwise you’ll find two small screws, side by side. If you’ve got a coax fitting, you’re set to go: simply connect up the coax fitting. If you find the “two screws” style, you’ll need one more attachment, a Radio Shack purchase.

Called a “matching transformer” this little guy acts as a go-between from your two screws to the coax cable. Screw the one end into the coax fitting; the clips slide under the screw connectors on the radio.

With your FM radio connected up to the coax, turn on your TV antenna amplifier and prepare to be wowed by more stations than you thought possible. All of them free!

A final note: Some RV TV antennas make use of an “FM trap” that is designed to block overpowering FM signals from interfering with TV reception. Look over your antenna manual to see if your antenna has a trap (some that have traps have an option to turn them off or on). Lost your manual? Give the splitter a try (just keep your receipt to take it back if you find your antenna has a trap).

Help your RV refrigerator operate more efficiently

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By Rene Agredano

If you’ve watched food become prematurely moldy or endure freezer burn inside your RV refrigerator, the problem could be resolved as easily as storing less food and adjusting the refrigerator temperature based on the current outside temperature — in other words, turn it up or down depending if it’s hot or cold outside.

RV refrigerators operate most efficiently when cold air is allowed to freely circulate inside the unit. Food that is packed too tightly will prevent circulation and quickly spoil. To prevent this expensive problem always keep your food purchases to a minimum when taking your RV out on the road. Buy your items at least one day before departing and store them in your home refrigerator until leaving. Placing cold food items inside a cold RV refrigerator puts less demand on the unit.

Plug in your refrigerator to get cold air flowing at least a day prior to your departure. Once your refrigerator has cooled to an optimum temperature of about 34 degrees, pack it with the heaviest and tallest items on bottom. Place flat items such as egg cartons on the top shelf so air can freely flow out of the cooling fins. Sensitive produce such as lettuce and berries can be wrapped with paper towels and placed in the vegetable bin to prevent premature spoilage. Finally, the bottom left corner of your freezer is the coldest place in the unit for easily spoiled items such as ice cream and meats.

Pay attention to the weather once you arrive at your destination. Your refrigerator has to work extra hard when the outside temperature rises so remember to cool down the unit during hot weather and increase the temperature during cold weather.

A small battery-powered interior fan can also help cold air circulate more efficiently. If you’re still experiencing food spoilage it’s time to take your RV refrigerator into the shop for annual maintenance.

Read more from Rene at Live.Work.Dream.

A Benchmark Atlas may change your view of the road

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by Greg Illes

The Benchmark series of atlases have long been favorites with wanderers, and with good reason. Covering the 11 western states, these tabloid-sized books are a wealth of information and far richer than the typical road atlas. Each one covers one state, and the information is generally provided as two sets of maps: recreation view and landscape.

The recreation maps are large-scale, grand-view depictions of terrain and land-use, with major highways and arterial roads; Landscape maps are topo-style, smaller-scale, with secondary roads, campgrounds, contour lines for elevation, and so forth — exactly the kind of detail needed for serious exploration (or just for finding that great out-of-the-way campground).

The recreational maps are especially useful for locating public lands. They cover, in excellent detail and accuracy, parks, monuments, BLM lands, national forests, and state lands. Easily find roadways, dirt roads, and even trails. The road markings are remarkably clear, and it’s easy to tell the difference between a motorhome-capable dirt road and a rough 4WD track. Of course, local conditions and weather can change these things, but the maps are still a great place to start.

In addition to the pure cartographic information, the atlases also provide a fair-sized listing of points-of-interest such as campgrounds, historical places, parks, museums and such. On several occasions, I’ve found a great place that I didn’t know I was going to — until I read about it in the Atlas.

THE BIG PAGES AND CLEAR DETAIL of these giant books (11″ x 16″) make for easy orientation — the “big picture.” Despite being dedicated electronic aficionados, we find ourselves making extensive use of the atlases over our iPad and Droid maps. In fact, our several-year-old atlas copies are well-worn and dog-eared. Atlases list for $23-$25 on the Benchmark website, but they are routinely discounted at retailers; Amazon pricing runs about $16 to $21.

If you still prefer a more digital orientation, Benchmark is beginning to offer the atlases as downloads electronic devices. Check out your favorite app store for more information.

Greg Illes is a retired systems engineer who loves thinking up RV upgrades and modifications. When he’s not working on his motorhome, he’s traveling in it. You can follow his blog at www.divver-city.com/blog.

Are propane tank “trade ins” worth it?

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By Russ and Tiña De Maris

 

You see them nearly everywhere: Propane cylinder trade-in kiosks. Bring in your empty and trade it in for a refreshed, full one. Often with 24-hour service it may be tempting to trade-in rather than fill up. But are they really a bargain?

On a visit to a Flying J truck stop we found bulk propane for $2.75 per pumped gallon. The same truck stop offered Amerigas exchange cylinders for $21.99. A quick nod at your calculator says you’re paying $1.64 more per gallon for the exchange, but you’re getting a “fresh tank.” Not exactly!

Reading the fine print on the exchange offer shows that the Amerigas offer is “Net Weight 15 pounds.” Propane weighs 4.23 pounds per gallon, which means you’re not anywhere close to a full five gallons, and in fact, you’re paying the equivalent of $6.20 a gallon — $3.45 more per gallon than having your own cylinder refilled.

And those “spare” cylinders they tout? Buy a spare for $54.99, filled up with a little more than three and a half gallons of fuel (which you could pay $9.75 for in bulk), and you’d still have $45 left over to buy a brand new (not refurbished) cylinder. At the time of the price check, Camping World would sell you a new cylinder for $35 which would be good for 12 years before it needed to be recertified. Those “refurbs” from Amerigas? Unless you look closely at the cylinder, you’d never know how soon you’d have to have the container recertified.

Which does bring up a point: If your existing cylinder is getting near its time for a re-cert, it might be advantageous to trade it in on a refurb. It is definitely more convenient than calling around propane service yards finding out who’ll recertify your old cylinder, lugging it out, and waiting around for the job to be done. On the other hand, if you have the time and the re-cert price is right, lug it on in.

You pay the money, you make the choice.

Meals almost fix themselves using tin foil on the barbee

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By Russ and Tiña De Maris

 

While traveling does bring out quite an appetite, once you land in camp at the end of the day, who wants to fiddle around with a lot of meal prep hoopala? It’s so much easier to cruise into a McDoogies, but the nutrition is so questionable. Go some place with better nutrient values and less fat, you’re apt to spend a bundle. What to do? Pull out the barbee, the tinfoil and let the meal almost fix itself.

A couple of our favorite foil-wraps can be prep-worked before pulling out, then on arrival fire the grill and toss a packet on. Go about the rest of your set-up business and in a short time the appetizing aromas will signal the meal is ready. Best of all, cleanup is easy!

Foil Wrapped Burger Bundles: Toss a burger patty in the middle of a square of aluminum foil. Top it with slices of onion, potato, carrots and chunks of celery. Dab on a small pat of margarine, season with a pinch of garlic powder, and (if you have it) a few drops of “liquid smoke.” Fold up the aluminum “bundle” to seal in the food good and tight. Poke the pack once with a fork and toss on the grill over medium heat. Cooking time will vary with the size and thickness of the hamburger patty: check it out at about 20 minutes but it may take longer. When the spuds can be poked easily, it’s chow time. Alternatives? Ground turkey is a hit.

Painless Foiled Fish: This is one of our favorites when traveling through native fishery areas when fresh salmon is sold by the roadside. Starting with a good sized chunk of foil, lay the fish on the foil, skin side down. Butter the fish as you would a piece of toast and dash on lemon juice. Salt and pepper to taste. Wrap up the tin foil and fold over tight. Poke once with a fork and toss on the grill, medium fire. Thickness of the fish determines cook time: 10 minutes per inch at the thickest point is a good starting point.

Alternatives? Forget the butter! Layer on mayonnaise instead. Wow!

Clean Up: Toss the “pan” in the trash!