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Organize your RV documents. Go paperless

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Organize your RV documents. Go paperless

By Greg Illes
If you are like most of us, your RV has a huge collection of operating manuals, installation manuals, specifications and other literature. This stuff usually comes with all the appliances and accessories that are part of a trailer or motorhome, such as refrigerators, air conditioners, heaters, TVs, smoke alarms, generators, electrical panels, and on and on. The list sometimes seems endless, but (if you’re lucky) it’s all filed away in a box or a bag — somewhere.
 
Thing is, you never need this stuff until you really need it, as in when something fails or acts up. (So where was that fuse located? And what exactly was the reset procedure? And what was that oil type for my leveling jacks?)
 
None of us can remember all this stuff, so it’s written down and filed away, maybe — big maybe. If your RV is used, maybe you didn’t get the whole enchilada when you bought it? And if you (once upon a time) did have everything, do you still? And even if you do have all the docs, can you even find what you’re looking for in the pile? Different doc sizes, different fonts, sometimes faded with age.
 
After finding out that my personal collection of such documentation amounted to thousands of pages and at least 15 pounds of paper, I got the brilliant idea to “go paperless.” After all, I’d been doing this with my bills and statements, why not my product manuals?
 
Turns out, it’s really simple to take everything that documents an RV and make “soft copies” of it. This can be done with a scanner, or even a smart phone. What’s more, it’s very common for updated manuals and documentation to be available online; and if that’s the case you just download them to your RV folder. It all takes a few hours of diligence, but once done, it’s done.
 
Now that I’m paperless, other doors open. I can keep photos, manuals, even receipts and work records, all organized for quick access and easy identification. Right now, it’s all on my laptop, but I have a secure online backup service and I can access the files from any computer if I need to. It is also simple to burn a CD with all the contents of my RV folder.
 
To put icing on the cake, I also have simple, free software that allows editing of the PDF and JPG files, and I can make notes or edits to them.
 
Greg Illes is a retired systems engineer who loves thinking up RV upgrades and modifications. When he’s not working on his motorhome, he’s traveling in it. You can follow his blog at www.divver-city.com/blog.

Dry camping? Use smarts when charging your RV batteries

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Dry camping? Use smarts when charging your RV batteries

By Russ and Tiña De Maris

Some RVers rarely stray from an RV park and that’s a real shame. There’s a lot of beauty that can be reached only when “dry camping” or boondocking. If you’re new to the idea of RVing without hookups, this is a good reminder regarding battery life.

RV batteries take a LONG time to charge, particularly if you’re trying to charge them with the typical RV converter-charger. Here’s a scenario: “I’ve been out here a couple of days and my lights started going dim. So I fired up the generator and it’s been running for hours, but my battery is still low!”

The standard “factory equipped” converter-charger rarely sends more than 3 or 4 amps to the battery when “shore power” or generator power is available. At that rate it can take many, many hours to really charge up the RV battery. If you don’t have solar or wind power and don’t have a built-in high-current charging system, here’s how to make your RV generator help out:

Use a fairly high-current freestanding battery charger — like you’d pick up at an auto parts store — and hook it directly to the RV “house” battery — the one that operates your interior lights and water pump. If you need an extension cord, be sure to use a suitably “gauged” (heavy enough) cord for the charger.

Buying an RV without slideouts is a big mistake

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Buying an RV without slideouts is a big mistake

by Steve Savage, Mobility RV Service

Considering the purchase of any type of RV without slideouts? Think again! I know, I know. You’re going to tell me slideouts are prone to water leaks — and I’ll tell you, you’re 100 percent correct. Slides have done more to destroy the structural integrity of RVs than any other single design change in recent memory. If left unattended with the slides extended, in my opinion, the majority of slideouts will experience water damage.

On the other hand, the simple truth is the overwhelming majority of buyers are in love with the added space slides offer and are not about to give them up. They cost more and they cause more problems, but folks can’t live without them.

So where does that leave you when it comes time to trade or sell? Hopefully, you saved big on the initial purchase because what you will find is the market for your used non-slide camper is thin to non-existent. That means you are going to take a huge hit on resale and it is going to take much longer to even find a buyer.

Best advice from this end is buy a unit with slides and maintain them. You will realize the wisdom of your choice when it comes time to resell.

Should you use black tire covers?

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Should you use black tire covers?
by Russ and Tiña De Maris

We once wrote about keeping your tires safe when stored in a hot, sunny climate. One of the points we made is this: “Old Sol can make a proper job of burning things up with UV rays. Outside, be sure to thoroughly cover your tires. Industry folk tell us that tires are best preserved when blocked from all light — so dark (black) covers that fully wrap around are best.”

One of our readers took a bit of exception to this advice. He writes, “I can’t agree with using anything black to cover the tires. Black absorbs sunlight and the extra heat is not what you want on the tires. Light transmission has nothing to do with the color of the material but the material itself.”

We asked industry expert Marvin Bozarth about how to best protect tires from UV light. Mr. Bozarth is the Tire Industry Association technical expert. Marvin noted that indeed, black actually absorbs UV radiation; therefore, UV rays will get through to a tire covered with a black cover, white or other colors, unless specially treated to block UV rays.

We then called on one of the top-selling RV tire cover manufacturers for their take on the situation. A representative from ADCO Products, a maker of tire covers sold by outfits like Camping World, told us that, yes, their tire covers are made with “automotive vinyl that’s pressed with a UV inhibitor.” When we asked for information as to just how resistant to UV radiation their covers are, the representative said he couldn’t tell us — not without laboratory analysis. Push come to shove, he did say that ADCO tire covers were “in some way UV resistant.”

The Tire Industry Association’s Bozarth also told us that tires that are not completely covered with some material that resists UV radiation are susceptible to radiation damage wherever they are uncovered. UV radiation doesn’t have to fall directly on a tire — it can “bounce,” as it were, and cause damage to the back side of the tire if unprotected. He did add that the additional heat captured by a black tire cover was not a concern in terms of damaging a tire.

Mr. Bozarth said his best advice for RV owners when it comes to tire longevity is this: Don’t let your tires stand idle for months at a time. Tires are manufactured with anti-ozonate chemicals which travel to the surface of the tires to protect them against UV radiation. However, these chemicals only migrate when the tires flex — meaning, the tires must be driven on to flex. He recommends that an RV be driven a bit every one to two months for best protection.

photo courtesy pplmotorhomes.com

Does a satellite phone belong in your RV travel kit?

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Does a satellite phone belong in your RV travel kit?


By Greg Illes

For years my wife and I were more amused than concerned about cell phone coverage on the road. It was almost a “badge of courage” for us to find ourselves out of contact — a condition emblematic of our isolation. At times we reveled in how far away from civilization we had managed to wander.

After many outings, some realities began to intrude. Once, a financial issue had to be attended to very quickly. Another time, our daughter had a medical urgency. We were lucky to be able to quickly drive to an area of phone coverage and take action.

About a year ago, I had my trusty 4×4 out in the remote desert of southeastern California. I had been out of cell coverage for literally days and was more than 30 miles of hard, rough country from any outpost or help of any kind. Did I say “trusty”? I realized that even a simple mechanical breakdown could be life-threatening.

I did some research (Spot, InReach, etc.), but decided that I really wanted two-way communication. I decided on the Inmarsat IsatPhone Pro. This is one of the simplest satellite phones, and is small and light enough to be day-packed or backpacked.

There are more expensive phones, many on the LEO (low Earth orbit) system. My Iridium phone uses geo-stationary satellites (higher orbit, with slight lags in conversation). Both systems have other advantages and disadvantages, but this Iridium phone met my needs without breaking the bank.

As for the expense, yes, satphones are pricey, but not hideously. The IsatPhone Pro is $650 from various service suppliers and retailers. My service plan is $35/mo., which includes 10 minutes of talk time. Extra minutes are $1 each. Service can be paused for $30 cancellation/activation fees — so if you will only need the phone for a couple of months a year, it’s even cheaper.

Obviously, this is not the tool for long, leisurely chats. But short-and-sweet connections to stay in touch, let folks know your whereabouts, contact your broker, wish a friend a happy anniversary, or (worst case) call for help in an emergency — these all are very affordable. It will also handle texting and voicemails, so you don’t have to have it powered up all the time.

A few months ago, my new satphone proved indispensable to make contact with a traveling friend. I had been out of cell coverage in the Oregon woods for more than a week. Through several satphone connections, we managed to adjust both of our travel schedules and meet up on an Oregon beach.

Life is good — and just a bit safer and more convenient, too.

Greg Illes is a retired systems engineer who loves thinking up RV upgrades and modifications. When he’s not working on his motorhome, he’s traveling in it. You can follow his blog at www.divver-city.com/blog.

RV wind deflectors: Use ’em right or don’t use ’em

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RV wind deflectors: Use ’em right or don’t use ’em

By Jim Twamley

Just how effective are those RV wind deflectors you see on trucks pulling 5th wheels and travel trailers? Though somewhat technical (what you’d expect from a Professor of RVing), this information could save you some serious cash.

Trucks pulling trailers lose a majority of their energy at highway speeds through aerodynamic drag. Using computational fluid dynamics, scientists study airflow as it interacts with test models in a wind tunnel. These studies have determined that in order for an RV wind deflector to work efficiently it must be within a few feet of the trailer due to the fact air flow created by the deflector closes in within a few feet unless it’s conducted by another surface. Cab extension gap seals and side fairings will help to make this possible. (From the article “On the Aerodynamics of Tractor-Trailers,” by M. Hammache and F. Browand.)

According to these scholars, the best place for an air deflector is actually on the trailer itself because that’s where the majority of the drag occurs. When you place a rounded “nose cone” on the trailer, you eliminate the gap of a cab wind deflector and the aerodynamic drag is significantly reduced. So, if you’re looking to save a bunch of money by installing one of these over-the-cab deflectors, make sure it’s as close to the trailer as possible and also install gap seals. If you don’t do this you’re throwing money to the wind.

In fact, if the gap is too large, it will end up reducing your fuel economy because you’re actually increasing the drag. The bottom line is that trailers like the Titanium brand, made with an aerodynamic nose, are more fuel-efficient than any aftermarket cab-mounted wind deflector. The more aerodynamic the trailer, the better the fuel economy. —Preventing the money from blowing out of your wallet —Jim Twamley, Professor of RVing

##RVDT1335

How to replace your RV’s drain valve

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By Jim Twamley
It was early in the morning and I could see my breath as I hurried to winterize my coach before leaving for Europe. I opened the access panel and reached down to open a drain valve and the handle broke off in my hand. Note to self: “I need to fix this when I get back.” I decided to “deep six” the old valves and replace them with a higher-quality and more useful valve. I headed for Home Depot and found the parts I needed for the job.

For the hot water drain I selected a 1/2-inch “SharkBite” fitting with a 1/2-inch male threaded standard garden hose valve. The “SharkBite” fittings are great because you just push them on and they form a tight seal with absolutely no leaks. They can also be easily removed by compressing the release collar. This particular fitting has a braced back for securing it into the wall.

On the fresh water tank drain I used a standard 1/2-inch barbed hose connector with a 1/2-inch threaded male end attached to a standard garden hose valve. This is held in place by a hose clamp. You probably already figured out why I’m using a standard garden hose valve, and you would be correct. When I drain my fresh water tank I want to be able to attach a standard garden hose and water the trees or run it down the sewer instead of making a small lake under the coach.

(Editor: Apparently, there now are drain valves available that connect to a garden hose, if you don’t feel up to building your own. Here are a couple available at Amazon.)Most RV manufacturers use cheap drain valves that seem to break after several uses. I had to replace valves on my travel trailers, 5th wheels and now my motorhome. You can use any combination of valves you like as long as you have room for the modification. I don’t use these drain valves that often, but when I do use them I want them to work properly. Hopefully, someone from the RV manufacturing industrial complex will read this and say, “What a great idea — drain valves that connect to a standard garden hose. Why didn’t I think of that!” (We have previously shown this RV tip.)

Older drivers involved in fewer fatal collisions

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The stereotype of RVers is often of Grandma and Grandpa driving slowly in their big Winnebago, a trail of passenger cars tailing impatiently behind.

driver-736That’s not entirely accurate anymore as the average age of an RVer has dipped below 50. Still, there are a lot of older RVers on the road, many over 70. So how well does the safety record of these older drivers compare those of younger ones? Darn good according to the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety.

Advancing age can bring impairments that affect driving ability. Drivers age 70 and older have higher crash rates per mile traveled than middle-aged drivers, though not as high as young drivers.

The number of drivers age 70 and older is growing. As baby boomers age, older people make up a bigger proportion of the population than they used to. In addition, older drivers are keeping their licenses longer.

Despite their growing numbers, older drivers are involved in fewer fatal collisions than in the past. A total of 4,115 people ages 70 and older died in crashes in 2013. That’s 30 percent fewer than in 1997.

Many older drivers limit their driving. Surveys show that many people drive fewer miles and avoid night driving or other challenging situations as they get older. Some states require in-person license renewal for older drivers to help identify those who shouldn’t be driving or should have restricted licenses.

What to look for when shopping for a trailer

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What to look for when shopping for a trailer
By Steve Savage
Mobility RV Service
When shopping for a trailer, as with all RVs, start by considering how you intend to use it. As a general rule it’s easier to tow a smaller RV than a large one, and obviously it’s important to be aware how much weight your tow vehicle can tow. Naturally, if you plan on staying put for long periods of time or full-timing, lean in the direction of going larger in size.
I advise staying away from any RV that falls into the entry level, i.e., the cheap price range. The only way the manufacturers market entry-level products is by “decontenting”* the product or by pushing it down the line. I have seen some of these wherein appliances were not even wired before leaving the factory. I would also advise against buying from any manufacturer that has not been in business for at least five years. Everyone needs a track record.
Once you know what size and shape you’re going to tow, attend several RV shows and do some research on the Internet, until you have a sense of differences in construction. Examine every aspect carefully and don’t attempt to buy based simply on a manufacturer’s reputation. Don’t forget to make sure everything works. After you narrow the candidate list, be sure to complete a test tow before signing on the dotted line, and try not to get caught up in modifications and add-ons until you have used your RV for several months.
* Editor’s note: “Decontenting” is a term lifted from the auto industry. It is the practice of leaving out features for the sake of price-reduction. Car/truck shopping? A “decontented” pickup may have manual door locks, instead of switched electronic locks normally found on the same model.

Take care with your RV generator

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Got a “built in” RV generator? Don’t have to “plug and unplug” shore power cords when switching from shore power to the genset? Then you have an ATS (automatic transfer switch). They’re convenient, indeed, as the rest of us without them have to go outside, typically open a door, and plug the shore power cord into a special receptacle fed by the genset.

However, there are a couple of caveats you need to be aware of: An ATS is not a “perfect” device, and problems can occur. Here’s a good rule when firing up the generator when using an ATS. In fact, this is a good rule when firing up any RV generator, ATS or not: Reduce power consumption before firing up the generator. That means, make sure the air conditioner, the microwave oven, the portable electric space heater–any of those “big draw” devices are turned off.

A big surge in electrical current can actually damage an ATS, and in some cases, the genset itself. There have been cases, too, when the ATS somehow wasn’t fast enough to isolate the generator from the shore power system–with very nasty and sometimes expensive results. Take the extra moment to reduce your power consumption before you hit the start switch.

Susanville in northeast California celebrates its ranching, logging traditions; good ale

Julianne G. Crane
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Susanville in northeast California celebrates its ranching, logging traditions; good ale
Downtown Susanville, Calif. (City of Susanville website)

Many RVers travel along US 395 on their way to and from Arizona and the Pacific Northwest or Canada.  In northeast California you’ll pass near Susanville, a small historic town nestled in a mountain valley at 4,400-feet. It sits about 90 miles north of Reno, Nevada, and about 90 miles east of Red Bluff, Calif.

This is a perfect place for RVers to stop for a few hours to visit the local historic railroad depot or pull over for the night and enjoy a Lassen Ale draft at the local brew pub–Pioneer Saloon, “the oldest operating business in northeast California.”

Here are a couple places to tempt you off the road:

Inside Railroad Deport

Susanville Railroad Depot and Visitor Center
601 Richmond Rd., Susanville, Calif.
Located at the head of the Bizz Johnson National Recreational Trail this restored railroad depot offers a visitor center and a museum. Free.
Hours: Monday thru Friday 10 a.m. – 4 p.m.
(530) 257-3252.

Roop’s Fort / Lassen Historical Museum
105 N. Weatherlow St., Susanville, Calif.
Open to the public Monday through Friday during the summer.
The
fort is the oldest structure in the town. The museum houses exhibits
chronicling the last 170 years in Susanville’s history. This small museum hass plenty of information on local history. The museum docents were helpful and informative. Take the time to stop by.
(530) 257-3292.

Pioneer Saloon

Lassen Ale Works at the Pioneer Saloon
724 Main St., Susanville, Calif.
(530) 257-7666

“The Pioneer Saloon, established in 1862, is the oldest operating business in northeast California. The bar, building and its large, exterior vintage neon sign are beloved local icons. People come in to take a seat at the 36-foot-long bar, ostensibly the longest in northeast California, and admire the display of hundreds of hand painted ranch brands representing generations of Lassen County cattlemen and women. The back room features a historic mural, one of many in Susanville, but the only one located inside a building, that celebrates the ranching and logging traditions of Lassen County,” according to the Sierra Nevada Geotourism’s website.

Lassen Ale Works at the Pioneer Saloon opened in May of 2012. The owners “dreamed of creating a warm, welcoming brew pub in a historic building that would become a community gathering spot and provide a boost to the economy. The four felt lucky to find this historic western saloon, steeped in history, with its rustic appeal still intact.”

The Lassen County Fair
Lassen County Fairgrounds in Susanville, Calif.
The summer’s biggest event comes in the form of a great old fashioned county fair. Live entertainment, 4H competition, Parades.
Third week in July.
(530) 251-8900.

For places to park your rig, check out RV Park Reviews. 

— Sources of information and photos: Sierra Nevada Geotourism, City of Susanville, Lassen County Chamber of Commerce. Lassen Ale Works at the Pioneer Saloon.

–– Julianne G. Crane
To read more about the RV lifestyle, go to RVWheelLife.com

How to help keep your RV fridge food fresh

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The typical RV refrigerator is smaller than the one in your home and many RVers tend to overstuff it, making it difficult for air to circulate and maintain an evenly-distributed temperature. This can also cause some meat and dairy items to smell a bit after just a couple of days.

A way to help the refrigerator cool efficiently is to use a small, battery-powered fridge fan, which will move the air around. But be warned: if your refrigerator is really, really stuffed, the device may be only marginally effective. So try not to pack it like a sardine can.

A small inexpensive fridge fan from Camco (and other retailers) will operate for 30 days on two D-cell batteries and has a charcoal filter to absorb odors as it circulates the air. It retails for $22.29 but you can find it for about $14 at Dyers or Amazon. Most RVers seem to like it, although some have reported it is not as effective as promised. The biggest problem with the device, we think, might be trying to pronounce its name without wearing out your tongue. It’s called the Fridge Airator Fridge Fan Food Fresher Fridge Odor Absorber. Yeah, the word “Fridge” is in there three times. Good luck asking for the product by name.

If you want something a little easier to pronounce, the Valterra A10-2606 FridgeCool 11.28 mA Fan with On/Off Switch is about the same price and should accomplish the same mission. But, really, that isn’t so easy to say, either!

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