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RV batteries go dead, even while plugged into shore power

 

RV batteries go dead, even while plugged into shore power

gary-736Dear Gary,
What runs off the electrical when you’re at an RV park? Been here two days and last night my lights dimmed to nothing and the water pump quit. I switched the fridge over to propane just to be safe. The clock on the microwave still works though. I’m here for another 5 days! I started the RV and it gave the lights a big boost and the pump worked again — but only lasted a short time after shutting the engine off. Why did this happen? It’s the first time it ever happened. Are my auxiliary batteries dead because they’re brand new? And I thought once you plugged the RV into the park power, the auxiliary batteries weren’t in use! I’m confused here. How does this all work? Please help. —Kelly

Dear Kelly,
When plugged into shore power at the campground, presumably the AC to DC converter will charge the auxiliary battery bank. All the lamps, fans, water pump, etc., still operate on 12-volts DC, just that the DC electricity is provided by the converter instead of the batteries while plugged in. If the converter charging module (or the breaker for the converter), is turned off, or if you have some type of battery disconnect solenoid engaged, the batteries will not be able to receive a charge. Your microwave, by the way, is powered by 120-volts AC only, which is why the clock still works.

The fact that the lights got brighter when you started the engine is an indication that the batteries are indeed very low, if not completely dead. The engine alternator was simply providing the DC voltage while the engine was running. Regardless of the brand of motorhome, the brand and type of converter/charger installed and whether or not any disconnect devices are employed, it’s obvious the batteries are not receiving a charge while the coach is plugged in to shore power.

If you can measure an increase in DC voltage at the battery bank when the coach is plugged in, then the battery charge circuit is at least complete and probably working. If the voltage does not go up when plugged in, look for a blown fuse in the charge circuit in the converter/charger. Look also for any electronic disconnect switches that totally isolate the battery system. It’s common on some coaches to employ these during storage or a lengthy downtime. If they are activated while using the coach, it literally takes the batteries out of the system, meaning you cannot charge or discharge them.

Another cause would be an open conductor (broken wire) between the converter and the battery bank. Any type of break in that circuit would result in the same symptom. A high degree of oxidation or corrosion on the battery posts (both positive and negative posts), can also prohibit the batteries from being charged. Be sure the battery terminals are clean, dry and tight, and check the ground connection at the frame from the negative terminal on the battery bank. Any open in the charging circuit could prohibit the converter from charging the bank. The last items to have tested are the batteries themselves. A carbon-pile load test will determine the health of the batteries if everything else checks out.

Read more from Gary Bunzer at the RVdoctor.com. See Gary’s videos about RV repair and maintenance.

##RVT794

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Charlie z
1 year ago

I have a 2007 Fleetwood Bounder. It is a 38 ft class a diesel. I always keep it plugged into shore power and it always keeps the batteries charged. This time I went out to get ready to go in a couple weeks and the RV would not start. Dead as could be
It started just two weeks before. I let the RV run for about an hour and both motor batteries are charged. I am a little lost here. Can anyone help

C.Lee
2 years ago

When we’d had our new rig only a year or so, we got home from a trip and parked the trailer in it’s spot, disconnected, and plugged it in to charge. Usually, it would charge at a high rate for a few hours, then drop to a trickle, indicated by the speed of the cooling fan in the converter/charger. This time it didn’t. Three days later, I notice the cooling fan still on high. Got volt meter out, started testing…Checking fuses, circuits, wiring, etc. We’d had an issue with the wiring earlier, caused by the dealership running some screws through the wiring to the water heater, so there were many possibilities. I couldn’t find the problem for the life of me. Finally, I’m out by the tongue checking the wiring in the junction box out there, totally frustrated, and I notice a cord hanging that I’d never noticed before. What the…? After plugging the breakaway electric brake switch back in, it took me about an hour and a half to put the wiring back together and button everything up.

Thomas R Villone
2 years ago

coach is in storage and plugged in but the inverter/charger keeps turning itself off, it will remain on for a couple of days or so then off again. all I keep on is the refrigerator, the batteries are only two or three years old and high dollar sealed batteries. what should I be looking for? Thanks in advance for any info…

Jen
2 years ago

Our coach batteries kept running low. Hubby checked water level in battery terminals – very low. So filled up with distilled water. No more problems.

Carl Showers
3 years ago

I have put two new batteries in my 5th wheel. They died immediately as soon as connected. What would cause this?

Mike Sokol
3 years ago
Reply to  Carl Showers

Was this a replacement for the original batteries and wiring, or did you swap in a pair of 6-volt batteries for more capacity? When you say died immediately did you mean in minutes or hours or it just didn’t work at all? And were the batteries fully charged before installing them. I need more information to be able to provide any answers. Note that I’ll be covering current tracing in my next Electrical Short series, and that would help discover what the problem was.

Susan Callihan
6 years ago

Perhaps you can offer a suggestion for this problem: The RV Norcold reefer in our 2016 fifth wheel (we full time) has started giving us an error message that says “lo dc”, mostly occuring in the afternoon when we open one of the doors. Our batteries are fully charged. The reefer remains on shore power and keeps the correct temperature, but we don’t know why we’re getting that error message.

Kenneth Conley
6 years ago

Twice I have helped newbies that didn’t realize the breaker on the pedestal was off: they figured once they plugged in that power was there.

Paul Schmidt Jr.
6 years ago

“converter charging module (or the breaker for the converter), is turned off, or if you have some type of battery disconnect solenoid engaged”
I am trying to learn before buying a Class A RV so a picture of what is a converter charging module, where do I find the breaker for the converter, where would I find the switch and some type of battery disconnect solenoid? Maybe a picture or two would help. If a picture can’t fit in the newsletter than a reference to a web page would help. This leaves me more confused than helped. Sir I consider myself a decent handyman but never having had an RV the answer has me asking for an RV repair class.

Pete Belletto
6 years ago

Help, help, did I mention help. New rv owner of a Tiffin Allegro Open road 2005. Coach batteries unable to receive charge. Do you know where the switch for the converter charging module is located? Please throw me a life line.

chuck
2 years ago

check the breaker under the hood first . converter is under a storage hatch . output is a red and black wire . should see 13 volts or more

Eric Eltinge
6 years ago

Excellent answer. Unfortunately, you would have to be an electrician to do all of this. Back to the dealership!

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