Dear Dave,
I bought this RV from a dealer “as is.” How do I remove the decals and adhesive? The decals are split vertically every 2 inches and curling. We tried an “eraser wheel” and it just gunked up the wheel while only removing a 10”x5” area of decal. I’m 68 and on a very low fixed income. This is my “Plan B” when I can no longer afford rent, but it has to look nice to be allowed in. —Deb, 2007 Keystone Cougar fifth wheel
Dear Deb,
I would start with a heat gun on low setting and scrape off what decal you can with a plastic putty knife. Be careful not to get the gun too close or you will burn the gelcoat finish of the fiberglass. I don’t recommend using a metal scraper as it will gouge the fiberglass. Then, if you are going to put new ones on, it will show up as a crease or wrinkle.
Make sure you start with a small area and not heat too much surface of the decal, as it will cool down fast. You most likely will not get all the adhesive off. However, getting the bulk of the vinyl off will make it easier to remove the adhesive. The eraser wheel only works on decals that have become very hard due to exposure to the sun.
Here is a 2000 Winnebago Adventurer that came from California and had some very nasty decals. We used a heat gun and putty knife to remove the decals and stripes.
Next remove leftover adhesive
Once we had the bulk of the vinyl off, which took many hours of tedious scraping, we soaked the leftover adhesive with Goo Gone. I have found this is the best product on adhesive and gummy substances. You can find it on Amazon here. It comes with a plastic scraper.
There are other adhesive removal products available at auto body shops or parts stores. However, I have used Goo Gone on decals, vinyl floors, and even the adhesive used on the engine cover (doghouse), that was a real bugtussle! (How about that for Midwestern slang!)
I used the 3M eraser in some of the harder parts, so it does work, just not typically on the vinyl of the decal. You can find it on Amazon here.
After getting most of the adhesive off, I use denatured alcohol to get the remainder of the light adhesive off. There was still some shadowing or oxidation that you could see on the finish, so I buffed it out with Meguiar’s Oxidation Remover. It is a very light polishing compound which you could also use, or even Barkeeper’s Friend. However, Crane Composites, the parent company of Filon, the fiberglass exterior panel, recommends Meguiar’s products. You can find it on Amazon here.
After that, you can reapply new decals and stripes, or have it painted like we did on the Adventurer.
You might also enjoy this from Dave
What can I do to restore faded fiberglass and damaged RV decals?
Dear Dave,
The finish on my RV has lost all its luster and the decals are all damaged. What product can I use to get the luster back? Also, the manufacturer no longer has my particular RV decals. Any suggestions on how I might get a new set? —David, 2015 Thor Chateau
Dave Solberg is a leading expert in the RV industry and the author of the “RV Handbook.”
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Be gentle with the 3M eraser wheel. It will remove paint with too much pressure. I used to remove much hated diamond shield.
GooGone is an excellent adhesive remover.
Instead of a putty knife, you can but “plastic razor blades”.
https://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Scraper-Sticker-Remover-Application/dp/B07TVM7W35/ref=asc_df_B07TVM7W35&mcid=e65136b55bf63c0da51a6e99255d28e4?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80058270750317&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583657825716882&psc=1
I used on my TT when the front decals were cracking and lifting. I also used a hair dryer to heat the decals. Safer than a heat gun. If you have an autobody supply store near you, buy some prep-sol to remove the remaining adhesive. Body shops use this to prepare a car for painting.
I removed the decal and stripping on my bounder. I tried a number of things but as Dave said a heat gun and plastic scraper worked best for me. Slow but good.
Thank you, Dave! 🙂
Having been in the vinyl business since 1984 I have tried many things. But have found that steam is the way to remove vinyl. Buy one of those small steamers at Walmart as well as a small plastic funnel (3-4”) place/tape the small end on the steamer then hold the large end tight against the decal for just a few seconds. Then using a plastic scraper get an edge pulled up then you can steam the next area and pull vinyl up with your fingers. Much easier and faster than a heat gun. Erasers are a waste of time.
I removed my decals with a air hair dryer – use the low heat setting. I also used an old fashioned single edge razor blade in a holder – very carefully not to put too much pressure on it or hold it at a steep angle to avoid scratching the fiberglass. (They were used for windshield scrapers). It is a slow process but it works well at minimal expense. I followed up the Goo Gone and a 3M cleaner product and finally, with alcohol. I replaced with similar designs – except painted them on with RustOleum in similar colors.
GraphXOff is the fastest and easiest. Smear it on. Wait 10 minutes and then scrape off with a plastic scraper.
Beats all others by miles.
Instead of a plastic scraper we used plastic razor blades. I ordered from Amazon. You get two holders and 100 blades for about $10. Really worked well and as they get dull you flip the blade or change it out. Getting the decals in the sun helps depending on how bad they are. One side of our Montana was dried and cracked the other had just started to peal around the edges and those pealed off just with the summer suns heat.