Issue 982 • October 4, 2018
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QUICK TIPSÂ
Adjust tire pressure when using a TMPS?
Our resident tire expert, Roger Marble, says he found at least one tire pressure monitor system manufacturer that suggested users need to adjust tire pressure to 70 degrees. “Au contraire!” says Roger. “According to the Tire & Rim Association yearbook, which any tire engineer should be very familiar with, under ‘Cold Inflation Pressure’ they are very clear when they state that the inflation pressures shown in the tables are measured when the tire is at the prevailing atmospheric temperature, and do not include any inflation build-up due to vehicle operation. The key definition is that of ‘ambient temperature,’ which is the air temperature of an environment or object.” He continues that what appears to be happening is, “Some are confusing SATP or ‘Standard Ambient Temperature and Pressure’ as used in a chemistry lab as a reference. We are not doing a Chem Lab experiment. Tire cold pressure may be measured if a tire has not been driven or in direct sunlight for the preceding two hours.” Thanks for the clarification, Roger!
More holding tank surprises
“To save yourself from pranks, failing to close the valves after dumping and small leaks, I leave a clear 45-degree extension on my sewer outlet with the cap on so that I can see if there are any surprises waiting for me! If there are I rotate the extension up before attaching the hose.” —Thanks to Phil W.
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Tank Sensors Reading Full?Restore them overnight with Caravan Sensor Cleaner
Caravan’s highly concentrated, bio-enzymatic formula is guaranteed to remove the debris causing your tanks to misread. No driving necessary. No dangerous chemicals. No strong odors. Perfect for full-timers and permanently parked RVs. Learn more or buy at Amazon.com.
Today’s brain teaser (answer below): I am a delicious way of representing data. What am I?
MORE QUICK TIPS
Coin storage containers
Mel Goddard adds his thinking on “coin storage” containers: “I’ve been using grey or black 35 mm film cans – they hold 32 quarters.” Or for Canadians: “26 Loonies or 29 Toonies.” When questioned about where to find something as “antique” as 35 mm film cans, Mel quipped, “Any ex-serviceman is well versed in the art of ‘scrounging’. Try a photo shop, for a start. And grocery stores or other stores still sell 36 mm film in those plastic cans.” Thanks, Mel! And if you’re not a good enough “scrounger,” yep, you can still pick up new ones here.
Water pressure regulator tips
by John and Kathy Huggins
Water pressure varies from campground to campground. Some have in excess of one hundred pounds per square inch pressure. Modern rigs are designed for less than fifty. If you do not use a water pressure regulator, you could rupture an interior water hose. Believe me; you do not want to clean up after that, not to mention the expense of a very difficult repair. Most folks don’t know the difference between pressure and flow, but you should in order to understand the difference. “Flow” is a measure of volume of water delivered in a period of time, usually measured in gallons per minute or gpm. The poor shower is caused by low flow, as are most other RV water supply problems. “Pressure” is a measure of the force of the water, and it is measured when no water is flowing (“static” pressure). It is measured in pounds of pressure per square inch or psi.
RV plumbing systems in an RV fresh water system are generally tested to a pressure of 100 to125 pounds per square inch (psi), but to prevent warranty problems, RV manufacturers may recommend only 40-50 psi. Unfortunately, this may not provide the shower you’re looking for. Most house plumbing operates at about 60 psi, and this can be adequate for RVs, too. The cheaper (under $10) pressure regulators are really water flow restrictors, and you will notice the restriction when you have to dance around under the shower to get wet. The best way to go is with an adjustable water pressure regulator with a pressure gauge so you know what water pressure is entering your rig. There will be an adjusting screw to raise or lower the pressure. I set ours between 45 and 50 pounds per square inch (psi). —From “So, you want to be an RVer? And Enjoy the RV Lifestyle? [Revised].” Get an adjustable water pressure regulator here. You’ll be glad you did.
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Editor and Publisher: Chuck Woodbury. Managing editor: Diane McGovern. Staff writer: Emily Woodbury. Contributing writers: Russ De Maris, Bob Difley, Gary Bunzer, Roger Marble, Mike Sokol, Greg Illes, J.M. Montigel and Andrew Robinson. Advertising coordinator: Gail Meyring. Marketing director: Jessica Sarvis.
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I use the container that Mini M&Ms come in. Quarters are a perfect fit. Then tube has an attached cap so you are unlikely to loose it. The larger taller tube holds $20 and the shorter tube holds $14 worth of quarters. Just another solution for storing your Laundry Day coins.
I also use old prescription bottles to hold quarters. Don’t save any other change.
I know that Roger is the tire expert, but I have to question the advise given above. The standard temperature is 60F. That means that a 20F deviation from that will yield about a 5psi delta from the standard. I guess if that kind of difference is insignificant then don’t worry about it. Just sayin’, but if my pressure is deviating by 5 psi, I am adding air. Is that wrong?
I couldn’t vote in the flushot poll because my answer is “always used to, now never.” You need to capture quitters (as many older folks are once the risks from the shot exceed those of the flu).
The last several years I got the shot, my lungs flooded (hacking up water for a month?) and I felt mentally foggy from sustained low O2. So, whatever they changed in the shot a few years ago. I can’t tolerate it anymore. The only year I did get flu, I had gotten the shot, so it’s a blind defense anyway.
The water pressure regulator article has a link to Amazon. The regulator which is linked to is not the best regulator, according to the reviews. Check the regulator reviews carefully before ordering. I found a regulator with much better reviews, and almost no negative reviews. It costs about 5 dollars more than the linked-to regulator.
Thanks, Marmot. I’ve changed the link in the tip so that it goes to the RV water pressure regulator category, and people can choose the brand they want. —Diane at RVtravel.com
This is the best fixed non adjustable water pressure regulator on the market in my experience: https://www.rvwaterfilterstore.com/Fixed.htm
Or from here less money: https://www.easternmarine.com/water-pressure-regulator-brass-wr-rv55
The pressure in the hose will drop when the water is flowing. If you want 50 psi with the hose open (dynamic) then set the regulator at about 60 psi (static) when there is no flow.
Not sure I understand the purpose of saving coins. I don’t spend the quarters I get for change and put them in a plastic jar kept in the car…they are very handy when going to the car wash or the laundry.
My Dear Bride uses these size cases to carry her daily requirement of pills. They are getting hard to find.
Regarding the water pressure regulator article, it and other articles focus only on the campground water. But boondockers, and occasionally other RVers, fill their tanks at many other places. Therefore, I use my water pressure regulator ANYWHERE I connect my tank fill to a faucet, not just in a campground. This may seem obvious, but newbies or others who just haven’t thought about it, might need the reminder.
Then filling your fresh tank from the open “stuff in” fill port, you don’t need a regulator since you want maximum flow and can’t build pressure in your pipes. DO use one anytime you connect your screw-on “city water”
In the potential prank of a tank valve being opened, since a previous rig had a leaky valve I picked up a new one that simply bayonets on the outlet. It ended that problem and worked so well I’ve kept it on our current one since it was new. While it is not clear, it has never leaked in 5 years of use and is easily seen if someone has pulled the valve open. One additional benefit is if your rig is like ours and two grey tanks, it allows the balancing of those tanks if one is full and needs some room till at a dump station.
I installed a third valve also. However, I use mine to allow me to flush out the black tank with the soapy water from the gray tank. Empty black, close third valve, open gray valve for about 15 seconds, close gray valve and open third valve to empty black tank again. I do this at least two times (when both tanks are at 2/3rd full) and it keeps all residue from being left in the black tank.
We use paper coin rolls, cost little and can be tossed when done. Carry easy in pocket on way to laundry
For coin storage I use old prescription bottles, but they only hold nickels, dimes and quarters. Never tried anything in the looney bin. Lol