What is the best way to check the level of my RV?

Dear Dave,
What is the best way to show the level of my rig? Seems the level on the console is out of whack. I use a 24” level rig now to do front and back. Any suggestions? —David, 2000 Bounder 39Z

Dear David,
There are a few critical areas on a motorhome that need to be level, or at least close to level. I assume your 2000 Bounder has a Dometic absorption refrigerator, which operates on LP gas or 120-volt electric.

Refrigerator needs to be level

The refrigerator cooling unit contains a liquid solution made up of hydrogen, ammonia, sodium chromate, and water. The liquid is heated either by a flame in LP mode or by a heating element when running on 120-volt electric. This heat turns the liquid into a vapor that travels up to the evaporator coils where it “flashes,” which removes heat and creates the cooling effect.

There are several chemical reactions involved, but the important point is that the vapors eventually turn back into liquid and must flow back down through the cooling unit tubes to the vessel.

Dometic requires the refrigerator to be level within 3 degrees side-to-side and 6 degrees front-to-back. If the refrigerator is not level, the liquid can pool in a corner and fail to recirculate properly. This causes the liquid to overheat, begin to flake (which reduces cooling efficiency), and eventually the material can solidify. When that happens, the cooling unit or the entire refrigerator must be replaced.

In your owner’s packet, there should have been a round bubble level with a circle in the center. Place this level in the bottom of the freezer. If the bubble is at least halfway inside the circle, the refrigerator is level enough to operate safely.

It is important to check level at the refrigerator itself because the countertop or dinette table may not be level even if the coach appears level. After 25+ years, you may no longer have the original level, but replacement bullseye levels are easy to find on Amazon here.

RV needs to be level before opening slide rooms

The next issue is having the unit level and stabilized before operating the slide rooms. You did not mention whether you have slides or which mechanism, but Fleetwood Enterprises commonly used Power Gear rack-and-pinion slide mechanisms.

If the motorhome is not level and stabilized, the chassis and floor can be slightly twisted. When this happens, the sidewall opening is no longer square, which creates resistance on the slide room, mechanism, and motor when extending or retracting the slide. Generally, if the coach is level enough for the refrigerator, using the bubble level method, it is level enough for the slide mechanism.

RV should also be level for your comfort

A third concern is personal comfort, especially when sleeping. In addition to using the bubble level in the refrigerator, I mount a small cross level on the outside rear corner near the bedroom. This allows you to fine-tune the leveling so the refrigerator stays within its acceptable range while also making the bedroom more comfortable for sleeping. You can find one on Amazon here.

 You might also enjoy these posts from Dave 

• Class A gas MH parked out of level overnight. Now I smell gas, generator wouldn’t start
• My RV’s absorption refrigerator died. What replacement would be best for dry camping?
• Is it necessary to level a travel trailer?
• No leveling jacks on RV, so can I just use a block on the outside dual wheel?

DAVE HAS ANSWERED MORE THAN 1,000 readers’ maintenance and repair questions. Read a directory here. There is so much to learn!

Dave Solberg is a leading expert in the RV industry and the author of the “RV Handbook.”

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