Dear Dave,
The four 110v plugs on the side that is not hooked to the GFCI outlet quit working—all at the same time. I have checked all breakers and fuses in the panel and all is good. All lights work and everything on the GFCI side work with no issues. I made sure all was good at the RV park pedestal and even changed my 50-amp cord. Need help. What next? —Ed, 2019 Keystone Alpine 3400RS
Dear Ed,
I believe all four of the outlets that are not working are “ganged” together. That means one Romex wire coming off either the distribution center or another 120-volt AC source goes to the first outlet, then comes out that and goes to the next, etc., supplying power to all four.
As we have stated many times, RV manufacturers use the cheapest materials and components, and outlets are some of the worst, in my opinion. Instead of using the traditional double outlet with the hard wire screws on the side, they often use a very cheap spade-type outlet. It not only costs less but can be installed faster, meaning labor $$ saved. Here is a photo of one that another reader found with a similar issue.
As you can see, it would be very easy for one of the wires to either get loose or even pop out of the spades with road vibration. I would prefer a solid connection like you get from the studs on the side of a traditional outlet.
This makes a much more secure connection that most likely will not jar loose. These even have a “quick connect” hole in the back that I would also not use.
Steps to troubleshoot the non-GFCI outlet problem
To troubleshoot, get a Non-Contact Voltage (NCV) tester and test each wire coming in and out of the outlet.
First, remove the cover of the outlet. If it is the spade type, as in the first photo, loosen the outlet and pull it out. Be very careful when working with 120-volt power. If you are not comfortable pulling an outlet out, turn off the main breaker or disconnect the shoreline cord and the battery, if you have an inverter that will supply 120-volt power to outlets. Make sure the outlet has no power with the NCV tester.
Then you can pull the outlet slightly out of the box and inspect the wires. Most NCV testers are sensitive and will indicate power within several inches rather than touching a wire directly.
You can also turn the power off, pull the outlet slightly out, then turn the power back on to test. My guess is there is a wire disconnected at one of the outlets and nothing is going to the rest of them.
You might also enjoy this from Dave
Powering your RV: Essential 120-volt electricity tips and gadgets for every RVer
This is Part 3 of Dave’s “Everything you need to know about RVing” series. In this installment, Dave looks at 120-volt electricity and tells you all about it and some very useful gadgets to have when dealing with RV electricity.
Learn all about RV electricity here.
Dave Solberg is a leading expert in the RV industry and the author of the “RV Handbook.”
Read more from Dave here.
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##RVDT2516
You would have to be “desperate” to want to work for an RV manufacturer in light of their well known labor practices. If they don’t care about their customers what makes you think they give a damm about their employees.
Check the thing that shuts off the tv
When the key is turned on to prevent ppl from watching when driving
Mine controls tv and 5 12v plugs
Worth a shot
Another excellent article, thanks Dave
Thinking Ed might have a second GFCI, I had that same issue & found a GFCI on the back side of a counter that i didn’t know it even existed & was the same dark color as the panel!
Snoopy
(See Dave-Snoopy comment below). Be sure there isn’t a second GFCI. I found a 2nd one in my Class A under the bathroom medicine cabinet floor and one at the end of the kitchen counter. I replaced the one in the bath as the outlet quit working – not sure what else was on that circuit. I also had a loose wire in the Rv outlet noted in this article.
Thank you, Dave, for the information. Have a great weekend and safe travels!