Did you know that Dave answers almost every single email he receives? Now that’s what you call impressive! He’s also what you’d call a great guy. That being said, not every email he answers needs a long article like you’re used to seeing here. But he has A TON of other emails that could help answer some of your RVing questions—just in a shorter format!
Dave is busy at the Florida RV SuperShow this week (say “hi” or attend one of his seminars!), so we’re taking some of his shorter email answers and consolidating them into one article.
Here are a few:
Do I need a pressure regulator on the black water flush valve?
A lot has been mentioned about using a water pressure regulator on the fresh water input at home or a campground, but I’m wondering if it should also be attached to the black tank sprayer when cleaning it out? Thanks. —Johnny, 2022 Lance Model 1985
If your connection for the black water flush is actually on the side of the tank, I don’t think it is necessary as there are no plumbing lines connecting it. However, most trailers have the connection in the service center and a hose and fitting that go across to the actual tank, so that would be a good time to use a regulator.
Honda CRV “toad” battery goes dead after travel. Why?
Any idea why our 2012 Honda CRV (used as our tow car) has a dead battery after reaching our destination? We have the Blue Ox Patriot 3 tow package. We installed a new battery in the Honda but still had a dead battery upon arrival last trip out. —Marilyn, Thor Quantum Class C
When I towed a Chevy Malibu, I had to pull two fuses that would drain the battery with certain settings being saved. I did a search in the Forums and it seems the CRV has the same recommendations. You should be able to find the correct ones in the owner’s manual. We tied small zip strips to help identify and make it easier to pull out.
Jack switch corrosion results in intermittent operation
Got this from a reader and thought it would be good to share the info.
Not a question, but a comment regarding electric tongue jacks acting irregularly intermittently. I had the same intermittent operational problems with my electric tongue jack (a major name brand). I replaced the one that came with the camper when it began “acting up,” assuming it was age. Then I installed a new one and within a year, began having the same issue. I tore the jack housing down and discovered the switch (up/down) had severe corrosion. I broke down the original jack, which I had saved, and discovered the same issue. Although it’s a simple toggle switch, an exact replacement was $65. I installed a new switch and the jack has worked flawlessly since. I, occasionally, will spray the switch with terminal protectant. No problems. As an aside, the switch in the old jack had corroded/crumbled into a handful of dust and debris. —Joseph, 2013 Casita
Why does my furnace just click and the blower not come on?
Why does my furnace just click and the blower not come on? —Gary
The first thing you need to verify is that you are getting 12.6 volts to the module board. Typically, low voltage will still start the blower but won’t be fast enough to raise the sail switch.
It could be a bad module board or limit switch, which is on the back side of the burner assembly and creates an open circuit if the temp is high. The module board can be checked by a dealership but it is usually cheaper to replace it. To check the high limit switch you typically need to remove the furnace. Check out an article on troubleshooting here.
How should I reapply trim hanging from overhead cab?
There is a sleeping area over the cab of the Chevrolet 4500. On returning from our recent camping trip, I noticed something flapping against the driver’s side roof/window. It was a cord (plastic or rubber) and was originally attached to go around the bottom of the cab-over part and the top of the cab roof. It only came loose about two feet from this area (driver’s side). I taped it down with duct tape to keep it from flapping. Is there an adhesive to purchase to tack it back into place to fix this issue? Thanks for your help. —Patrick, 2018 Coachmen Freelander 21RS
It is most likely the covering for the aluminum channel that is attached to the sidewall and overhead cab corner. This trim piece is screwed in place and the rubber or plastic piece you are referring to covers the screws to help weatherproof it.
Clean both surfaces off with mineral spirits to get any adhesive or other particles off, then use rubbing alcohol as it will flash fast and be good to apply. Then use non-sag silicone such as Dicor or automotive trim adhesive to reapply. Typically the edges of the trim piece fit into a slot or groove in the aluminum trim to keep it in place.
Dave Solberg is a leading expert in the RV industry and the author of the “RV Handbook.”
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