Ask Dave: I am replacing RV’s absorption fridge with a Dutchaire. Is 120-volt DC or 12-volt AC better?

Dear Dave,
I am looking for guidance. I am going to replace the Norcold 1210 fridge in my RV with a Dutchaire 2317 fridge. Still deciding on the 12-volt or 120-volt model.

We do not boondock but do like to have the fridge running as we drive from place to place. We live in the RV full time and are usually set up for 1 to 6 months in the same place. I feel that my 12-volt system that runs on my house batteries is already pushing the limits. My motorhome has a Progressive Industries PD9260C power converter charging two 12-volt 24M-EFB Interstate batteries, 700 Cranking Amps, 140 Reserve Capacity (RC)@25 Amps, 77 Amp Hours (AH)@20 Hr.

My question is, would I be better served installing a pass thru inverter/transfer switch that would power the 120-volt fridge while driving, and pass thru the inverter when hooked up to shore power or generator? Or just go with the 12-volt hooked up to my existing 12-volt system.

Thanks for any thoughts you can provide on the subject. —Ron, 2017 Newmar Canyon Star 3710

Dear Ron,
I would agree that your 12-volt house system is “pushing the limits” with only two Group 24 Interstate batteries, which provide 77 Ah each. That means you have 154 Ah total, but with a 50% depletion, only 77 Ah usable. Most likely your Newmar came with four 6-volt batteries. The Interstates are cheap replacements and most likely not holding 100% storage capacity.

Dutchaire 2317 refrigerator

According to the JC Refrigeration website, the Dutchaire 2317 refrigerator runs 6.1 amp. That means you could get 10 or more hours with nothing else running in perfect ambient conditions. However, most of the tests that I have found show running the refrigerator through an inverter will reduce that run time by more than half, as the inverter is an energy hog.

One of the most popular compressors used in the 12V refrigerators is Danfoss. According to the JC Refrigeration technician, they use a knock-off version from Sikelan. It appears to be manufactured in China. However, it does have great ratings, and JC Refrigeration has been using this brand for years.

12-volt DC versus 120-volt AC

JC Refrigeration does offer both a 120-volt model, which is the Dutchaire 2317E, or a 12-volt DC version which is the Dutchaire 2317. The 12-volt version would be wired directly to the house battery system through the inverter. It would require upgrading the wiring to 10-gauge, since your current wiring is most likely not sufficient enough to run the compressor. The current 12-volt wiring would only run low-power components such as the thermistor, module board, and eyebrow board.

The 2317E could be wired directly to a 120-volt source. It is already available in your rig with Romex coming from the distribution center to the outlet in the vent compartment. However, it would not power the refrigerator while running down the road without an inverter, as you suggested. This would be fine when traveling down the road, as your engine alternator would keep the house batteries charged sufficiently to run the refrigerator via the inverter.

Which is the better choice?

So, which is the better choice? First, the 2317 has a list price of $2,695 and would require new wiring, which would not be that expensive. An advantage would be a longer run time IF you do decide to dry camp at any point.

The 2317E has a list price of $1,965, which is $700 cheaper. However, you would need to include the price of a pass-through inverter and installation, which might eat up the $700 in a hurry. Plus, it will give you half, or less, run time if dry camping, and require the inverter to run continuously when driving.

The technician at JC Refrigeration recommended the 12-volt model and stated that many customers that purchased the 120-volt AC model returned to swap out to the 12-volt DC model in time.

Just some things to consider.

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My RV’s absorption refrigerator died. What replacement would be best for dry camping?

Hey Dave,
First, I, like many, wish to thank you for ALL of your help and advice. My 3-way Norcold fridge is finally done. I replaced the main board this past summer ($700 CDN) and was told if that didn’t work I would need to replace the fridge. It worked for about 3 months and now doesn’t. The front panel on the fridge won’t light up and I can’t turn it on. The shop I use is great and told me this might happen. So, my question is, what do I replace it with? I do a lot of boondocking, have two huge solar panels and eight batteries, so have a lot of power. But I feel I need propane also for those cold, cloudy, Canadian days; however, I am open to suggestions. —Larry, 1996 Winnebago Luxor

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Dave Solberg is a leading expert in the RV industry and the author of the “RV Handbook.”

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