Hi Dave,
I have a 2019 Ford F-150 Lariat, 145 wheelbase, 3.5L V6, 4×4 super crew, 3175 lbs. GVWR. Can I tow a 2023 Coachmen Catalina Legacy Edition 263FKDS, GVWR 9,718 lbs.? Can you break out the math? —Lorena, 2023 Coachmen Catalina Legacy Edition 263FKDS
Hi Lorena,
According to the Ford Towing Guide I found on the Recreational Vehicle Safety & Education Foundation (RVSEF) site, there are two different 3.5L V6 engines that have a big difference in towing capacity. You can find the guide here.
It lists the 3.5L EcoBoost V6 with 375 HP @ 5,000 RPM having a maximum towing capacity of 13,200 lbs. Then it lists a 3.5L EcoBoost H.O. V6 with 450 HP @ 5,000 RPM having different towing capacities, with the Raptor model having only 8,000 lbs. towing capacity, and the Limited having 11,000 lbs. Since you indicated your truck is a Lariat, I believe it has the 3.5L EcoBoost with 13,200 lbs. towing capacity—but please verify by checking the engine size.
Trailer weights
I’m not sure where you got your trailer numbers, as the website shows the Dry Weight or Unloaded Vehicle Weight (UVW) of the trailer listed at 6,869 lbs. and the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) at 8,600 lbs., giving you a Cargo Carrying Capacity (CCC) of 1,731 lbs. Keep in mind the UVW is the unit without any water, cargo, LP, and typically batteries, as the unit is shipped to dealers without batteries. So I am not sure where you got the GVWR of 9,781 lbs.?
Assuming the trailer does have a GVWR of 8,600 lbs., it is recommended to not load the unit to maximum capacity, but rather deduct 10% from the GVWR. You do not want to be at maximum weight trying to have the trailer brakes slow the vehicle down on hot days or in the mountains. We will also be deducting 10% from the truck towing capacity. So that means we take 860 lbs. off the 8,600 lbs., which means we should be towing 7,740 lbs.
If the trailer does actually have a GVWR of 9,781 lbs., then 10% off that would be 8,803 lbs.
Truck towing math
Let’s start with the EcoBoost H.O. V6 Raptor, which has 8,000 lbs. towing capacity. We take 10% off that, which leaves us with 7,400 lbs., and the trailer is 300 lbs. heavier than that. Does that mean we cannot tow this trailer safely? No, since the trailer weighs 6,869 lbs. dry and we have 1,731 lbs. of cargo capacity, so we need to only load the trailer up to our towing capacity, which means we can put in 1,371 lbs. That is still a pretty good payload in a small trailer. Keep in mind that water weighs 8.34 lbs. per gallon, so don’t travel with a full fresh water tank. Your trailer has a 44-gallon fresh water tank, so that would add 352 lbs. of weight.
The Limited is listed at 11,000 lbs. towing capacity, so 10% off that would leave 9,900 lbs. and is within a safe towing weight.
If you have the 3.5L EcoBoost that is not the H.O model, you have a towing capacity of 13,200 lbs. listed, and that comes to 11,880 lbs. You would also be well within a safe towing weight with that.
There is a difference between towing legally and towing safely
Every time I post an article or question about towing limitations or recommendations, I get a ton of comments on both sides of the argument. Some say the truck manufacturers have already factored in the safety factors, and some state that the RV manufacturers have done the same.
First off, I would not trust my life to the RV manufacturers’ or dealers’ recommendations. I have found that most will tell you anything you want to hear to make the sale. Not all, mind you, but probably most. Knowing the weight ratings of your truck and trailer will better educate you to know who is just trying to “push tin,” as we call it.
You will most likely see several comments from owners, not just here but in other forums, that state they have been towing at max weight ratings for years without any problems. That is most likely true, but you seldom see the post of someone that had an issue which caused major damage or even death.
You might also enjoy this from Dave
How do we educate the RV consumer about towing capacity?
Dave Solberg is a leading expert in the RV industry and the author of the “RV Handbook.”
Read more from Dave here.
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I noticed you didn’t mention anything about tongue weight or hitch capacity. As an example, if you only have a hitch with a 5000 lbs capacity and a tongue weight max 400 lbs, towing more than that would not be safe even if the manufacturer specs say otherwise. Is this true?
Would bet that if RVs had to go through the truck weigh stations, they might get a scare.
Dave, Lorena’s question posed the perfect opportunity to include a discussion of payload, including tongue weight and GCVWR. Too often this most important issue gets ignored in favor of “what can I tow.”
+1
Not considering payload is RV salesman BS
Why not just go to the “horses mouth” and send the VIN to the manufacturer to get the specifications on the vehicle? I did that, got a great response that was specific to my vehicle, and printed a copy for my looseleaf logbook.
We can get the same info using the VIN from the dealership parts dept.
I hate to be critical of an expert but, in the answers you give on water weight, in one you say it weighs 8.34 lbs/gallon, in the other you say 8.6 lbs/ gallon. I realize I’m nitpicking but for the newbie reading this it could be misleading. Of course in the wisdom of my daughter in law every time she orders water in the restaurant she’ll order “diet water”, I guess that would explain the difference between the two different weights you quote. Lol Have a good day.
Sorry, water is 8.34 lbs per gallon. Milk is 8.6 lbs per gallon so don’t fill your fresh water tank with milk, it will weigh more!
My first TT back in 1978 was stick n tin with EW 6657#, and a GVWR 7895#. Before signing the contract I asked the dealer what my axle ratio was, calling his friend at the Chevy dealer it was confirmed I had the 3:42 to 1 ratio. Later after the buy and finding out the hard way, I had the 2.73 to1 ratio. It would literally pull the trailer and get better economy by pulling in 2nd gear but that was a lot of noise even at 55 mph. That was an important lesson about sales people, they will tell you anything to make the sale. I bought the truck from my parents who had listened to the salesman when they bought it in 1976. It was no wonder my dad got 15 mpg at 70 mph, but the speed limit was 55.
Having had a 2012 3.5L turbo-charged F150 crew cab, I’m amazed at how much it’s rated towing capacity has increased over the years. On average I would guess by 1/3, and with no significant increase to the sturdiness of the frame, drive train or suspension. I suspect the truck manufacturers’ more recent efforts in oneupmanship over horsepower, towing capacity, etc. may have resulted in this stretch. I hope the brakes have increased proportionally.
One word, aluminum. After switching to all aluminum bodies in 2015, they saved about 700lbs from that alone. Instant increase to payload and towing capacity with no need to upgrade drivetrain or braking capabilities. There have been other advances, but I would say this is probably the largest single factor to increased towing ratings
This article totally misses the most important capacity limitation. That limitation is the truck’s payload. Any discussion of towing capacity that does not include payload is suspect.
+1
Not considering payload is RV salesman BS
Simply can’t believe payload not factored or mentioned as a major determining factor!
+1
Not considering payload is RV salesman BS.
I agree, payload or cargo capacity is usually an important, but neglected part of the equation. Everytime I see a truck (tow vehicle) towing a camper, it may be within specs with the trailer unloaded, but….and this is a big BUT, I see many tow vehicles (usually 1/2 ton pickup trucks) with the bbq grill, the kitchen sink from home, and half the barn in the bed, totally loaded up and no dount exceeding the cargo capacity….ugh, they will not be able to stop suddenly, and are risking catastrophic mechanical failure on the tow vehicle.
Tongue weight is a huge part of this… and I personally prefer to limit my trailer length for my F-150 to under 30′ since I have the shortest wheelbase. If your trailer is significantly longer than your truck, it can have an impact on sway, turning etc.
When I was looking for my first tow vehicle (Suburban) it had a 3.08 rear axle ratio. The Chevy booklet showed 2,000 pounds of tow weight. The 3.42 ratio showed 5,500 pounds. The salesman said with a straight face that the booklet data means the 3.08 can tow.from 2,000 to 5,500 pounds! I asked are you sure and he said yes. As I walked out I said I would think about it. Don’t trust the salesman! Some know the truth while others just want to make a quick buck. (They didn’t have any axles higher than 3.08 in stock.)
Outstanding advice! I am always looking at the gear ratio when researching my tow vehicle.
It’s not if it will tow it, but if it will do so safely. It’s dangerous and very uncomfortable for the driver when a vehicle doesn’t weigh enough to handle the trailer and payload, especially in heavy winds or in the case of a sudden stop or quick swerve. A 1/2 ton or SUV might pull the weight but not safely. I found this out by experience.
Also need to check the GAWR for the rear axle.