By Chris Dougherty
Chris Dougherty is a certified RV technician. Here is a letter he received from a reader while he was serving as RVtravel.com’s technical editor.
Dear Chris,
What is the best way to power all of the 12 volt accessories that I have? I do not want to overload the outlet on the dashboard of my Class A, but I do have a lot of “accessories”:
– Tire monitor
– Toad brake system monitor
– GPS
– Radar detector (probably do not need this, not much speeding going on)
– Phone charger
– etc.
You get the picture. I have one splitter that goes from one outlet to two, but I do not want to keep adding more and more. Should I add more 12v outlets? If so, is that hard to do? Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. —Dennis
Dear Dennis,
Wow, you do have a lot of stuff on your dashboard! The good news is that most of the items you’ve mentioned are low amperage devices, and if you’re not blowing fuses, then you’re probably OK.
To determine this for sure, start with the circuit in the dashboard feeding the 12-volt DC receptacles and see what that circuit is rated for. Your coach manual should be of help here. Next is to determine the amp draw of each item you are plugging in and add them up. Most devices will have their power requirements printed right on the device, but each item’s manual should be of help here as well.
The weak link may be the splitter. Most of the ones I have seen are fused in the plug to prevent overloading, but I would double-check and see if the amp rating is listed on it.
Again, the idea is to make sure that each item in the chain from the source to the load isn’t being overloaded,
If wiring clutter is a concern, or if you do happen to be overloading the circuit, or close to it, then adding 12-volt DC receptacles may be a solution. Options for installing these vary widely, from tapping into an open space on the vehicle’s fuse panel and installing a new circuit that way, if the vehicle manufacturer has left a spot open for that purpose and approves it; or running a new, dedicated, protected circuit from the coach or chassis battery to the receptacles directly. In this case, it is essential that the proper circuit protection, wiring, connectors, receptacles, and wire protection (loom, grommets, etc.) are used.
##RVDT1332
Added 12v outlets, hate splitters. The typical Ford E-series has two additional spots to add 12v outlets.
Removing the dash is very touchy, but doable. Fuse and adequate wiring for the draw is necessary.
I added a USB power outlet also.
If you add outlets I recommend looking for outlets that are made for marine use as they’re made a lot better for harsh environments.
Anderson PowerPole connectors are another option if you’re willing to cut off the cigarette lighter plugs and shorten the wires to each accessory. Then put one PowerPole distribution “splitter” on the dashboard with short wires running from there to each accessory. It will take some work and isn’t cheap but would be a neat compact solution. Find a ham radio operator who has a crimping tool and have them help you or loan you the $45 tool.
https://powerwerx.com/dc-power-products
I agree with Crowman that marine grade cigarette lighter outlets and plugs are a lot better than what you can buy at auto parts stores.
I’m just curious. Why would someone towing or driving an RV need a radar detector?
Hi, Mark. You will notice in his list he says: “– Radar detector (probably do not need this, not much speeding going on)”. 😀 —Diane at RVtravel.com
You assume that all LEO are ethical and all radars are infallible. Both are very wrong. This fall I beat a fraudulent ticket by playing dashcam video of my GPS and speedometer as the LEO speedgunned me. Time vs distance was a third speedometer. The court was rather embarrassed to be soundly caught enhancing revenue. Add a dashcam to your accessories.
Then again, we have the “impaired” driver caught doing 192 mph yesterday in his Corvette on a highway near where I live. Just couldn’t resist all of that empty roadway in front of him, I guess. 😯 —Diane at RVtravel.com