On the road again traveling Nature’s Highways. Let’s stop on our RVing trip at Wayne Wonderland National Monument. Don’t recognize that name? That is because on August 2, 1937, FDR proclaimed it as Capitol Reef National Monument, with 37,711 acres. In 1958 Ike added another 3,040 acres. Then in 1968, LBJ added an additional 215,056 acres. Finally, Nixon made it a national park, adjusting the 1969 boundary for 243,921 acres. On the list of most-visited parks, Capitol Reef National Park (CARE) ranks at #22, with 1.227 million visitors annually. CARE offers more than desert rock. It holds fruit orchards and petroglyphs as well.
Getting there
We are driving up from Bryce Canyon. Naturally, we want the scenic route that gives us some waypoint stops. So, we leave on UT-12 east towards Tropic/Cannonville. CARE is down the road about 105 miles. You will intersect UT-24, turn left to Torrey, UT, turn right to CARE Visitors Center. However, should you make a waypoint stop or two, the drive will take longer than 2.5. hours. Truly a scenic drive, UT-12 travels through some interesting side stops.
Kodachrome Basin State Park lies just outside of Cannonville, UT. One can hike several easy trails through its palette of desert colors against a bright blue sky, thus the name. Basin Campground has 13 reservable full-hookup sites.
Escalante Petrified Forest State Park northwest of Escalante, UT, gets its name from a 145-million-year-old fallen forest of now petrified trees. Along Main Street (UT-12) in Escalante are a few old houses c. 1900 worth stopping to see.
Anasazi State Park Museum is on the grounds of an Ancestral Puebloan community occupied from A.D. 1160 to 1235 by as many as 250 people. Visitors can walk around the excavated site and view many artifacts uncovered there. You will find it about a mile after UT-12 turns left in Boulder. Before you make that turn, look for Hell’s Backbone Grill, a James Beard semifinalist for Outstanding Restaurant in 2022 and 2023.
RVing Capitol Reef National Park: Staying at the park
Inside CARE, Fruita Campground offers 65 reservable sites. Full hookups, or any for that matter, are unavailable. Should you want to stay there, reservations are a must… the earlier the better, as it fills quickly. A closure of the campground is scheduled for June 3 through 14, 2024. During this time period, the campground will be repaved and no reservations are available.
If you are up to it, Bureau of Land Management (BLM) and National Forests provide other places to park. Just remember that these are mostly primitive sites.
As UT-12 intersects UT-24, a left turn takes you into Torrey with a few RV parks. If you take a right turn, you are on the way to the CARE Visitor Center. During our visit, we stayed at the Wonderland RV Park, located just before the intersection.
You are there. Now what?
Visitor center
The visitor center is located about 5 miles from the UT-24/12 intersection. As with any national park, this should be your first stop. NPS recently renovated the interpretive exhibits as well as adding some new ones. Be sure to download the NPS Audio Description Tours mobile app to lead you through the exhibits.
Driving tours
Capitol Reef National Park (CARE) is a vast geologic park with several magnificent driving tours. However, most require a high-clearance vehicle, 4-wheel drive, and even overnight camping. One drive has you fording the Fremont River. Should you take any of these, always check in at the visitor center for conditions, suggestions, and back road passes, if required.
NPS has initiated a renovation project for the Scenic Drive. Consequently, road closure is expected from approximately April to October 2024. Due to this, you can expect construction equipment and trucks traveling through Fruita.
The Cathedral Valley Driving Tour winds through beautiful high desert scenery. The 60-mile loop begins and ends at UT-24 from the Hartnet Cathedral Road to the west and Caineville Wash Road at the east end. It takes approximately 6-8 hours to drive the road nonstop.
Another exciting drive is the Loop-the-Fold Driving Tour. This 4- to 6-hour, 125-mile loop meanders through shades of gray, blue, purple, and red geologic formations of the Waterpocket Fold. You will pass 95-million-year-old oyster shell fossils and enter Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument.
Fruita
Amongst the stark beauty of the black boulders, Navajo Sandstone, Mancos Shale, and the Waterpocket Fold, beside the confluence of Fremont River and Sulphur Creek sits the ghost town of Fruita. Established in 1880 by a Mormon group, it was renamed Fruita. The town became known as the Eden of Wayne County for its 3,000 fruit, berry, and nut trees. With the NPS purchase in 1955, it was noted as a National Historic District for its cultural significance.
Hiking trails
CARE is a long (60 miles) and narrow (6 miles) 242,000 acres. Yet it contains a multitude of hiking trails that resemble hiking Zion but without the crowds. Even though the Scenic Drive closure may preclude some popular trails, the ones at Fruita and adjacent to UT-24 will provide plenty of opportunities. A couple of my favorites are Sunset Point (easy 0.8 miles) and Hickman Bridge (moderate 1.8 miles). Visit AllTrails for a great overview of the best. Remember, you are at an elevation of 5500 feet, so hike accordingly.
Flora and fauna
CARE hosts six species of snakes, the non-venomous gopher snake (Pituophis catenifer) being the most prevalent. However, you may come across the midget faded rattlesnake (Crotalus oreganus concolor), so watch your step.
Speaking of reptiles, lizards come in ten species. Be on the lookout for the Western whiptails (Aspidoscelis tigris).
Around Fruita expect to see rock squirrels (Spermophilus variegatus) and yellow-bellied marmots (Marmota flaviventris).
Of the 230 bird species identified around CARE, most are seasonal migrators. Still, you may spot canyon wren (Catherpes mexicanus), pinyon jay (Gymnorhinus cyanocephalus), and mountain bluebird (Sialia currucoides) hovering around the orchards.
Let’s not forget the plants: Over 840 plant species are restricted by soils, slopes, and elevation. This includes more than 40 rare and endemic plant species, six listed as threatened or endangered.
Wait. What?!
The red rocks are red because of the iron oxide hematite, also found abundantly on the “red planet” Mars.
Next stop: Canyonlands National Park. Until then, happy travels.
MORE LIKE THIS FROM DALE:
- Hiking with the Angels: Everything to know about RVing around Zion National Park
- The beautiful Grand Canyon National Park: A guide for RVers
- An in-depth look at traveling by RV at Great Smoky Mountains National Park
- RV tripping to Bryce Canyon National Park: What to know, what to do, where to stay
##RVT1145
…and don’t forget to stop by the Gifford Homestead for pie!!!
And pick your own apples in the fall.
We did Capitol Reef NP in 2022 and thoroughly enjoyed it. The scenic drive was just beautiful. We stayed at Fruita Campground in our 45’ motorhome. The deer roamed through the campground and came to lounge outside our RV for quite some time. And we stopped for pie, which was one of the highlights of our trip!
https://www.nps.gov/care/planyourvisit/scenic-drive-rehabilitation-project.htm Road Construction this year.
Thank you, Dale! My favorite part was when you said it is like Zion without the crowds. 🙂 Safe travels! 🙂
Just curious…the two non-park scenic drives, can they be traversed with a Ford Escape?
Not sure. It depends on clearance. Call the Visitors Center for a trustworthy answer. 435-425-3791
Cathedral Valley cannot safely be done in an Escape. The other loop (which I’ve never heard called that name before) can be done if it’s dry, but there is a lot of washboard and some soft sand on the Notom Road. Check with the visitor center to make sure there are no washouts on the Notom road from previous weather. (I was a backcountry guide for 10 years)
It’s gofer snake not golfer. In over 20 years of exploring the Capitol Reef back country I’ve yet to come across the midget faded rattler.
Hi, Bob. I forgot to check the spelling when I proofed the post. Actually, it’s the gopher snake. I’ve corrected it. Have a great day. 😀 –Diane at RVtravel.com
If you are thinking of going to Cathedral Valley consider taking a tour with one of the outfitters in Torrey. I drove the tours for 10 years visiting CV 276 times, only once was I a passenger and I saw much more than when I was driving. You’ll learn so much from a guide and see a lot of things they know about that you might miss, plus not have to worry about fording the river, getting lost or vehicle issues. (I have no connection with any of the outfitters now)