Home Blog Page 2112

Is your RV furnace burning your money?

By Russ and Tiña De Maris

Here’s a question worthy of posting on an Internet RV forum: “How much propane will a 15,000 btu RV furnace use in a day?” The question got posted – and it was certainly legitimate enough, but not a soul offered to render an opinion. Perhaps the safest might be: “Too much!”

“How much money will you spend to heat an RV?” is a frequently heard question when the cold weather rolls around and people think about getting away from the house and back to the great outdoors. Sad to say, the question is on a par with, “How much wood could a woodchuck chuck?” There are so many variables: How big is the RV? How well insulated? How cold is it outside? How warm do you want to keep the inside? What size is the furnace — or are you even heating with a furnace?

Here’s a scenario: A couple in Quartzsite, Arizona, were bemoaning how cold a winter trip had been. They have a 40-foot trailer, and based on an eight-day propane consumption history, they came to a nasty conclusion: Using their trailer’s furnace, it would cost them nearly $170 a month to heat if things stayed the way they were over the “trial period.” Needless to say, adjustments had to be made.

How much propane can you use? For them, their furnace is rated at 40,000 btu input, and a 31,000 output. A little math and a little propane background will help. A gallon of propane will supply 91,500 btu. Run their furnace a little over two hours and 15 minutes, and a full gallon of LP is burnt. Put another way, at $2.32 a gallon, for every hour of operation, $1.02 is spent. To add to the insult, 23 cents of that $1.02 is simply “thrown out the window” due to heater inefficiency — if you lived in a perfect world. But by the time you account for heat loss from ducting the heat throughout the rig, the dollars thrown away in this system are almost too painful to contemplate.

The couple finally resorted to closing off the areas of the rig when not in use, keeping the thermostat set at a chilly 50 degrees at night, and running an electric space heater in the areas being used, keeping the fuel hog furnace for use in heating the place up in the morning.

It’s no wonder that many RVers have opted out of using their rig’s factory furnace. Often they use alternative propane heaters: Blue flame, catalytic, or “brick” heaters. Nearly all models of these units are “unvented” meaning they are not connected to the outside. Almost 100 percent of the energy they consume in the form of propane is turned into heat. Keep in mind, to be safe you’ll need to keep a window or vent cracked to bring in oxygen, which translates to a heat loss itself. However, the efficiencies are higher and the equivalent amount of LP used is much less than a built in furnace.

There are other considerations: Putting 100 percent of the heat into the RV also means 100 percent of any combustion byproducts. There’s a whole world of controversy among RVers about just how safe or unsafe unvented heaters are. To that end, if you decide to use an unvented heater, ALWAYS follow the manufacturer’s instructions to the letter. We shop for heaters with oxygen sensors — these will shut down the heater in the event the amount of oxygen in the RV gets so low as to present a health threat. We also insist on having a working, frequently tested, carbon monoxide alarm in the RV.

How much LP will you burn with an alternative heater? When it comes time to refill your LP cylinders, no doubt you’ll moan, “Too much!” but it’ll certainly be less than with your monster furnace.

##RVT774 ##RVDT1272

Tips for your Southwest snowbird visit

0

By Bob Difley
If you are planning to head to the deserts in the Southwest this winter for the first time, here are a few tips to help make your winter escape comfortable, safe and stress-free.

  • Add a few desert guidebooks to your library, such as “Southwest Camping Destinations” by Mike and Terri Church, an excellent guide to the RV resorts, campgrounds, and boondocking locations in the southwestern deserts, and includes places to to and things to see. Another is “Audubon’s Deserts,” a classic on desert geology, climate, wildlife, plants and trees, and wildflowers, with color plates to help identify them. And don’t forget (shameless plug) my “Snowbird Guide to Boondocking in the Southwestern Deserts.”
  • Be prepared for desert winds — dry but not necessarily hot in the winter. But they do blow sand and if you do not familiarize yourself with where the wind comes from in relationship to your campsite (close windows facing the wind), the weather report (which will predict wind direction and velocity), and what time of day the winds will come up, you could leave for just a short shopping or sightseeing trip and come back to find the windows you left open to provide ventilation have welcomed the dust and sand layer that now covers everything inside.
  • Arizona is the skin cancer capital. Apply sunblock to all exposed skin whenever you go out. It doesn’t have to be hot to have UV rays do their damage. Desert air is thin, humidity low, not much to filter out those rays. Also wear a broad-brimmed sun hat.
  • Drink plenty of water. Carry a water bottle with you. The dry air evaporates the moisture right out of you and you need to replace it continuously.
  • When hiking stay on trails as much as possible. There are all sorts of cacti out there just waiting to thrust their barbs into you if you brush by them too closely (no, “jumping chollas” do not jump on you — but their easily detachable segments will stick to your clothes or skin if brushed).
  • If you plan to spend some time in a fancy amenity-filled RV resort for at least some part of the winter, be sure to make reservations. Many of the more popular resorts are booked out for the entire winter.
  • Plan to arrive at state parks midweek when they are not as busy. Many have overflow lots where you can stay a night or two until a campsite opens up. So ask — even if signs or personnel say they are full.

And finally, make an effort to learn about the desert — when and where the spring wildflower bloom begin; the unique native birds and wildlife (you won’t see any snakes, desert tortoises or scorpions — they’re hibernating); the mining and ranching history and historic sites; the untamed, raucous Wild West towns that exploded into being when gold or silver was discovered, then as suddenly turned into ghost towns when the veins ran out; and all the other unique characteristics of this fascinating environment.

You can find Bob Difley’s RVing e-books on Amazon Kindle.

 

##RVT774

Onan’s “fits and starts” give RVer fits

 

By Chris Dougherty
Chris Dougherty is a certified RV technician. Here is a letter he received from a reader while he was serving as RVtravel.com’s technical editor.

Dear Chris,
We have a 2011 Pleasure Way with an Onan Generator (QR2800). It has been exercised regularly but never actually used for more than 30 minutes. Now that we actually need to use it we find that after 30 minutes of running smoothly it surges, sputters, then quits. We have tried fuel cleaner but still the same result. It only has 26 hours on it and received its required 20-hour maintenance, so we really do not want to replace it but we need a reliable generator now. Have we given it some sort of memory by only running it for 30 minutes and not for many hours? —Freda

Dear Freda,
First, I think you have a QG2800, which stands for Quiet Gas, spec HGJBB.

Second, you won’t have to replace it — hopefully, it just needs service. The best people to provide service on this unit are the Cummins Coach Care Centers or their certified dealers and technicians, but I might be able to help.

The generator switch on the generator itself has a small red light which flashes a code, and there should be a chart for the codes in your genset’s owner’s manual. This code will help determine the issue. According to my contact at Cummins Onan, your problem could be ignition coil related, an intake seal issue, or a sensor problem. A technician will be able to take care of that for you.

 

##RVT774

Don’t freeze the pipes of your RV

2

By Greg Illes

When we first bought our motorhome, we never figured we’d be out in freezing weather. Freezing means snow and ice and things that just aren’t fun to camp in (we thought). And when we weren’t using our RV (“Howie”), we parked him in our Mediterranean-climate driveway in central California. So we never gave much thought to frozen plumbing problems. We’ve never winterized the rig.

But even in our first year of ownership, we found that cold-weather travel was a secret delight. Beautiful scenery, no crowds, clear crisp frosty mornings. And temperatures near or below freezing. Uh-oh.

Add to that basic problem that we eschew RV parks and crowded campgrounds — our ideal camp is a boondock location with nobody else around, just us and the wide open spaces. Which means no power, no water, no sewer, and no fix-it folks to repair ice-cracked pipes. If we wanted to have the experience, we needed to be able to deal with nighttime temperatures in the 20s or even teens.

Fortunately, our Winnebago/Itasca was designed with enclosed plumbing — there are no pipes or drains exposed to outside air. In addition, the design has a small air bleed from the forced-air heater duct into the holding tanks area. However, this built-in “warmer” had a major drawback — it only worked when the forced-air heater was operating. You know, that noisy, propane-sucking, battery-draining forced-air heater.

With deep concerns about saving our plumbing from solidifying, the first thing I did was install a remote-sensor temperature thermometer in the outside water bay (I used this one, but there are hundreds available). With the display mounted in our bedroom, I could thus check throughout the night on the downward progress of the coldest spot that our pipes were exposed to. When it started to read in the mid-30s, I’d start up the cabin heater and we’d have to live with the noise and propane consumption.

On a few chilly occasions (14 F one night), we gave in and retreated to an RV park, where we could plug in a small electric heater and keep it on “low” inside the water bay. But that was just a workaround. We really wanted to be able to deal with the problem while boondocking, and that much heat would drain our batteries too quickly.

Around that same time, we learned the wisdom of using a radiant heater instead of the built-in forced-air unit, and it worked fine for keeping us warm, at 1/4 of the propane consumption and no battery drain or noise. But too bad, it did nothing to warm the water bay because the air was not being circulated. I knew that I needed to get some heat into that water bay, somehow.

FINALLY, I DID SOME RESEARCH on where all the Itasca water pipes were routed. (This was really easy with the outstanding documentations supplied on-line by Winnebago.) Based on this new knowledge, I identified a spot in my bathroom inside wall where I could mount a small fan. The fan would blow warm cabin air down inside the wall cavity, and out into all the areas where piping runs. I made sure that there were places at the far ends of the cavities, where the air could flow back into the inside of the cabin, so it’s a true recirculation design. (One return spot is under the kitchen sink, one under the bath sink, and one under the bed.)

I tested the airflow using a special meter, but it could be done with a candle flame or small bit of smoke-generating tinder. All that’s necessary is a very modest flow to keep the air moving even a little bit.

Now we use the efficient, quiet catalytic heater to keep the cabin in the 45-55 range (we like to sleep cool). The recirculation fan distributes the air through the hidden spaces, and my remote thermometer assures me that the coldest spot never drops below 35-40 F. The real beauty of this solution is that it consumes so few resources. The fan draws only 0.16A, for virtually invisible battery consumption. And we only have to turn on the radiant heater, and only when the cabin drops to 50 F or less.

HOW TO DO IT
If you want to tackle this, you’ll need to be the kind of person they call “handy.” You will need to understand the physical routing of all your plumbing, either from documentation or by inspection. You’ll also need to be comfortable tapping into your vehicle’s 12V wiring.

If you have exposed pipes, the situation is not hopeless. But you will have to shroud them, box them, and/or otherwise insulate them from outside air exposure. Note that most of the common solutions to this issue involve heated pipe wraps or sheets (well beyond the capability of battery support); if you are okay with being tied to power hook-ups, that’s fine. We weren’t, and we opted for a super-low-power solution.

Here are the design issues I considered. You may have others as well:
Recirculation — the design must flow cabin air across all at-risk piping, and back into the cabin. Without this path, the air won’t flow. If the exit is to the outside, you’ll be cooling your cabin down when you least want it.

Low noise — Depending on where it’s mounted, the fan has to be quiet. Even the low-noise ones sound about like a desktop computer. Aim for a spec of 25db or less.

RPM — Slower fans are quieter but produce less air. This requires a careful trade-off.

Bearings — NEVER buy a sleeve-bearing fan; they just don’t last. Get ball-bearing or hydraulic.

Low power draw — The fan should run off 12V and draw very little from your batteries. Anything below 0.25A should be fine.

Adequate air — The fan needs to push enough air around to keep the serviced areas above 35 F. The really wimpy fans won’t cut it — look for 40CFM or more.

Diameter — small fans are noisier and have less airflow than larger fans. Try to stick with 5-inch or larger.

Color — My mounting location was in the middle of a pale-white wall, and a big black electronics fan (the usually available configuration) would have been pretty ugly.

Screens — I didn’t want to use a close-weave screen, even though it’s better looking. They reduce airflow too much, so I used a metal grill type.

Mounting clearance — Fans need about 1/2 their diameter in clearance to achieve their target airflow. You can’t mount one an inch away from a flat surface, because the blades will stall and not produce any flow.

Control — I used a simple panel toggle switch to turn the fan on and off. I thought about a timer switch, but I’m up several times a night anyway (aging prostate), so it’s no big deal to manage the fan. It’s right above the toilet anyway.

The fan I used was a thin white unit I got off of Amazon, but it’s apparently no longer available. Here’s a link to a similar fan. With a low power draw, I simply found the nearest 12V circuit and tapped into it.

Our nights are quiet again, and the peace of mind helps with my “inner silence” as well. Total cost was about $20 and several hours of figuring and fiddling.

Greg Illes is a retired systems engineer who loves thinking up RV upgrades and modifications. When he’s not working on his motorhome, he’s traveling in it. You can follow his blog at www.divver-city.com/blog

RVT774 ##RVDT1270

Tour a defective motorhome with a Norse god

In this short video, the owner of a 2015 Thor A.C.E. motorhome transforms himself into the Norse god Thor to show the many defects that came with his new motorhome and the difficulties of getting them fixed. The RV spent five months of its first year-and-a-half in the shop. Watch as “Thor” describes the hassles he encountered with Thor and the Camping World where he purchased the vehicle.

You’ll laugh your way through this video, even though the subject matter is downright depressing. Wrote the frustrated owner: “We made this video to make light of a very trying and unfortunate situation, just to ease ourselves of the incredible inconveniences suffered for months on end.”

##RVDT1265

Forest River recalls some motorhomes, toy haulers

0

 

Forest River is recalling more than 2,800 model year 2015-2017 FR3 motorhomes manufactured September 24, 2014 to May 12, 2016; 2015-2017 Prime Time Spartan toyhaulers manufactured June 10, 2014 to May 31, 2016; 2013-2016 Palomino Columbus toyhaulers manufactured October 4, 2012 to December 4, 2015; and 2015-2016 XLR Thunderbolt and Nitro toyhaulers manufactured May 23, 2014 to November 23, 2016.

The vehicles were equipped with certain black, aluminum ladders manufactured by Christianson Industries. The affected ladders have retractable hinges, each with a welded ‘top hat’ that can separate from the hinge.

If the hinges separate from the ladder while in use, the ladder may fall from the vehicle, increasing the risk of injury.

Forest River will notify owners, and dealers will install a remedy kit to correct the issue, free of charge. The recall is expected to begin January 6, 2017. Owners may contact Forest River customer service at 1-574-206-7600. Forest River’s number for this recall is 51-11102016-0271.

RV Travel Reader RVs, Dec. 17, 2016

4

 

Send a photo of your RV and a 150- to 200-word description of it, how and where you use it, and what you like or don’t like about it, to Diane (at) RVtravel.com . Be sure to include your name(s) and hometown, or if you’re a full-timer. (These are posted in the order received.)


The RVs of RVtravel.com readers and how they use them

Issue 68; Posted Dec. 17, 2016


Ted Sudtell, Full-timer

rv-sudtell-12-3-2016I tow a 2006 36-foot Teton Experience fifth wheel with a Volvo heavy-duty truck, on which I haul a Smart car. I have been doing this for nine years full-time. I got the truck when I decided the “dog was going to wag the tail, not the tail wagging the dog.” I travel with my dog. She is the only one who will put up with me, plus she likes a new front yard every few weeks.

My thoughts on towing a fifth wheel:

PROS:
• The heavy-duty trucks are very reliable. I started with 500,000 miles and have put 250,000 miles on it. • The engine should do another 300,000. The mileage is at 9 to 10 mpg. The tanks are 200+ gallons, which means very few stops for fuel.
• For the size, a fifth wheel is more maneuverable and can turn tight corners.
• The Teton is very well built but very heavy. Mine is 36 feet and 21,000 lbs.
• For the length it is very spacious.
• The truck allows me to carry 100 gallons fresh water and 100 gallons extra black. I can dry camp over a month while living like I was hooked up.

CONS:
• The effort and money to build the truck bed the way I wanted it.
• The total length in RV parks is 64 feet.
• When I get somewhere I want to stay a while — it’s too hard to set up and take down.

I am seriously thinking of changing things. The fifth wheel is quite an effort to set up. I keep looking at motorhomes that look a lot easier. Also, after nine years I’m not sure if I want to keep this up. There is a lot of exciting living to do. I have towed to Alaska four times and it keeps calling me — I may just move up there and travel down here for a few months.



Mike and Carlene Pardina, Oakdale, California

rv-pardina-11-26-2016We have had a few RVs over the years: pickup campers and travel trailers in the 1970s through the 1990s. Then for about 15 years … nothing. I retired in 2014, and still had the bug. When I was working I did not have more than three weeks’ vacation a year for over 40 years. So when the wife retired in June of this year, that was all the excuse we needed.

The result was the 31’11” Forest River Rockwood Signature fifth wheel, shown in the picture, which was taken in Elko, Nevada. It has three slides, an island kitchen, and a 42-inch main TV. We love the dining and kitchen areas. It has a layout that is wide open and is one of the best we have ever seen. We researched fifth wheel layouts for six months. We purchased the rig from a long-time dealer in Los Banos, California. The salesman had been there over 30 years! He made the purchase easy. This was our pick, and we are not disappointed.

We have over 13 trips under our belt. The best one so far was to Jordanelle State Park, Utah. We are leaving soon for the Southwest U.S, and to the Oregon Coast. Also, Branson, Missouri, is on the calendar.

We love the RV life, and we have met some very nice people in our travels. My F-350 Ford diesel has 250,000 miles on it; however, we are starting to look for a new truck — but I sure love this one. Never had much problem with it.

Love the newsletter, and my wife says, “Send them a check!” (Editor: Great idea, Carlene. Thanks! 😉 )



 
Copyright © 2016 by RVtravel.com

MORE IN A COUPLE OF WEEKS

Click here to see the last issue of RV Travel Reader RVs.

Cars of the future as predicted by Disney in 1958

9

 

Here’s what cars of the future will look like as envisioned in 1958 by Walt Disney. Jet cars, electro suspension cars and atomic cars will speed across the USA and in underwater tubes beneath the seas to connect continents. Radiant heat will melt away snow and ice on highways. When visibility is bad, radar will kick in to identify objects ahead. Colored highway lanes will help motorhomes reach their destinations. Prefab overpasses can be dropped into place nearly instantly.

Once in awhile the predictions have come true — “rear view mirrors will actually be television pictures,” the film predicts. What we call GPS is predicted. Self-driving cars, says Disney, are also in the future.

But most of what’s predicted to come has yet to appear and most won’t.  This delightful animation is fun. Enjoy!

The readers write — plenty of strong views

 

Edited by Russ and Tiña De Maris

If you’ve been a bit chilled by the weather, you’ve come to the right place. Maybe it’s the cold weather that warms up the opinions, and comments from our readers over the last couple of weeks show there’s no question about where folks stand on some RV topics. Here we go!

Vanishing RV fun?

no-vacancyHunting for a campsite? Editor Chuck Woodbury, now on the road full time, has had plenty of “adventures” looking for places to park his motorhome. In a recent story he wrote, “For people like me, who have traveled by RV for decades, RVing today is not as much fun. I was reminded of this in a letter last week from a reader named Paul. There are so many RVs these days, it’s often a chore to find a campsite. Until about five years ago, I never made a campground reservation, never needed to. Now, I make them most often, typically after a lot of time and research.”

Chuck’s comments struck a nerve with plenty of you. Here’s a sample.

B W Odom writes: “We have also noticed more campgrounds converting sites to long-term rentals — essentially becoming a mobile home park with some overnight spots. One local park with a six-month limit simply allows the residents to switch sites every six months to get around the rules.

“For us, there are two other factors pushing our decision: (1) the lack of quality/dependability we are finding in newer RVs, and (2) the lack and accessibility of reliable repair facilities. The upkeep of our RV has become a serious factor in our decision…costs have gone up every year due to increasing labor rates, lack of competent technicians, and poor product quality. Wait times to even get an appointment can be months!

“Surely the $$ that the RV industry is bringing in could be used to provide training and scholarships to put more qualified RV techs into the workplace; and to provide startup assistance for new campground owners or even campground expansions? Or perhaps all of those taxes being taken in for these new RVs being sold could be dedicated to expanding state/local parks?”

Tommy Molnar sounds a slightly different note: “Sometimes we stay in ‘pay parks’ for the necessity of washing clothes or cleaning out the black tank. If the park is in or near a small town, we always walk the town and take in the local flavor: Small mom and pop stores, a museum of local history, or a restaurant known for some specialty item on the menu. It’s still fun for us, but we too are noticing more and more folks out on the road (and in campgrounds). I don’t want to sound like one of those ‘I got mine, now lock the door’ guys, but in a way, that’s how I feel, selfish as that sounds.”

Finally, John Rakoci offers a thought that should give the RV industry folk a pause for thought. “Correct, not as much fun, more expensive, much more crowded. Since we live at the beach in North Carolina being on water is not as important as it is to many and that helps. Being retired is the biggest help of all. We stay home during summer months and I fish the Atlantic. Once school starts again in September we are on the road a lot!

“Florida, where we spend at least two months is very crowded and expensive. We have a campground that we will always reserve a spot for the next year before we leave as we have looked and will continue to but have not found anywhere we like better. We have even more plans for Georgia, Tennessee, and Louisiana. We are still open for Virginia, Alabama and maybe Mississippi this year before schools let out. However, I’m like [others] to a point, when all I can find are tight spots, I’ll quit too.”

RV quality becomes a bone of contention

hair-pullSad to say, but predictably, time would fail us if we published every comment received regarding the state-of-affairs when it comes to RV quality control issues. Got ear muffs? You might want to put them on before you read the comments!

DRW speaks from experience. “Too many people are buying the floor plan and the ‘bling’ factor with zero concern about the bones and build quality. My method is to avoid new motorhomes, and look for very high end older coaches that have depreciated into my price range, then update and modify to my taste.

Ellen recognizes the problem, but wonders what to do. She writes, “We’ve been full-time RVing for about eight years now and have bought two rigs in that time and definitely saw a decline in quality over those years.

“I’m wondering, though, how you’ll advise people to be smarter about buying an RV when many of the issues people are finding are behind the walls, above the ceilings? How can one know they’re buying a unit that won’t leak around the windows because the hole for it was made too big? Should you take all the face plates off the electrical switches and plugs to make sure they’re properly anchored? don’t have to take the dashboard apart in my new Jeep to make sure the steering wheel is properly anchored. Yes, buyer beware, but hey! We have to draw the line somewhere.”

James, in South Texas adds, “At the cost of RV’s one would consider workmanship and the manufacturer’s good name would go hand in hand. The recall lists continue to grow, the list of poor workmanship increasing each day, and the number of complaints verbalized and written increasing, why is the RV Industry not listening?”

To which, editor Chuck responds, “The RV industry listens, it just doesn’t care. As long as people buy what a particular manufacturer makes and the competition isn’t any better, then they just keep cranking out bad RVs, or at least ones with many flaws. Consumers must do a better job of shopping for a quality unit. Sadly, Consumer Reports does not rate RVs and there is no other organization that I personally respect that does.”

Which leads us to a related topic: Many of our readers have asked why rvtravel.com doesn’t recommend publications and reviews from say, RV Consumer Group. Here’s why from an answer Chuck provided a reader earlier: “I have mixed feelings about RV.org [RV Consumer Group], and cannot recommend it as a source of quality information. Some people claim the information they have purchased there has been a big help, others say they felt they wasted their money. RVreviews.net seems to be focused on selling information. In either case, my staff and I purposely avoid recommending either of these businesses. We know of no ‘Consumer Reports’ for RVs.”

Nightmare on RV Street

barnyard-discussionOnce again called in to mediate issues for an RVing couple, the RV Shrink deals with “Husband’s dream RV is wife’s ‘gas hog’ nightmare.” Evidently our readers felt there’s plenty of room in the RV world for a “bigger” rig. Or do they?

Jerry X Shay suggests, “Don’t think of gas mileage as ‘driving to work each day.’ Right now we are into our sixth week (of eight weeks) in one spot. Talk about great gas mileage – ha! You will not be driving down the road 365 days a year. As stated, you will drive your McMansion to a destination and then drive your car around to see the sites. Be sure to pencil in the fact that you are on an extended vacation when you RV. You will be paying to park, admission to attractions, you will eat out to try cultural food of the area, attending RV rallies, etc. Gas is not your only financial concern.”

Richard Warnke recommends conservative measures to make your big rig go farther. “Drive with a light foot. No jackrabbit starts. As long as we aren’t holding up traffic, 55-57 mph is fast enough. Don’t use the cruise control unless the road is really level. Watch the road ahead so that we don’t race up to the red light and have to jam on the brakes. In fact, watch the road ahead so that we almost never use the brakes on expressways. (Brakes destroy the inertia one pays to create with fuel.)

“Pay less for fuel. We use the Gas Buddy app on the phone to find good gas prices — of course, making sure our rig and towed can negotiate the gas station. One of our credit cards gives us a 5% rebate on fuel purchases in the USA and Canada, plus 3% on campgrounds. In this way, with limited $$$ resources, we’re able to enjoy full-timing, including driving our motorhome 25,000 to 30,000 miles per year, taking in many beautiful sights of God’s creation.”

Gene Bjerke suggests an alternative: “If your main concern is cost, why are you buying a McMansion? We travel in a top-of-the-line Class B. We get 18-20 mpg, dry-camp frequently, and are perfectly comfortable. If space is most important to you, you have to realize space costs. A smaller rig can be just as comfortable and offer all the amenities at a lower cost. You pays your money and you takes your choice.”

Ban diesels from big cities?

no-entryWe heard plenty off coughing from our readers when the story on four big cities around the world that plan on banning diesel engines from operating within. A sample of the responses shows the coughing wasn’t from smoke inhalation.

Glen got right to the point on his feelings on the matter. “This is absolute BS. For any of you who have visited Europe, what percentage of their daily drivers are diesel? My bet is it’s the higher percentage because the diesel powered cars get much better mileage compared to gas powered. And this doesn’t seem to take into account DEF [diesel exhaust fluid]”

Still, not everyone’s a fan of “oil burners.” RVGrandma gives her “two-cents” with, “I hate diesel pickups – they are noise pollution in RV parks! I hate getting behind diesel trucks that spew out black smoke causing you to cough. Doing away would be impractical. They just need to set emission standards for diesel like gas powered. Make the truck owners keep them in better working order so they don’t spew out the black smoke, etc.”

In response, Susan Callihan drops in another quarter’s worth. “Diesel vehicles produced prior to 2011 are dirty and smoky IF they are not properly maintained. I’ve been stuck behind many gasoline powered vehicles with the same problem – not properly maintained. However, diesels produced after 2011 are cleaner, with minimal particulate emissions, due to the use of DEF. Let’s not wrap all diesel vehicles in with the older, not maintained ones.”

Others question the practicality of such bans. Cindy, for example writes, “Yes, diesels are favored even in colder climates of northern Europe. And yes, it’s due to a couple of things: (1) mileage and (2) ease of repairs and parts. Most of the diesel cars are actually manufactured in Europe (e.g. Volkswagon, BMW, etc.). Doing away with them would hurt the automotive industry. I don’t believe it would make a great difference in air quality. Let’s face it, it’s NOT practical for everyone to drive an electric car, but that’s what would have to happen. Not practical for commercial trucks at all.”

 

##RVT773

RV driving on snow or ice

By Russ and Tiña De Maris

Winter is decidedly upon us. If you’re the typical RVer, your rig is probably tucked in, taking a deserved winter’s nap. On the other hand, maybe you’re a snowbird or full-timer, and your rig is probably somewhere in the sunshine. But what if you’re somewhere in between and that nightmare scenario develops: You’re driving your rig when suddenly, that “not too bad” weather turns cold and the white stuff begins to fall? Can you drive your RV in snow or ice? Should you?

We’ve gathered several winter driving suggestions for RVers – and many of these come from the trucking industry, where nasty weather and big rigs often have to mix.

First, RVers need to remember that they’re taking a “house” with them. You’ve got a lot of gear inside your rig, be it a motorhome or trailer. Unlike the big truckers, much of your household stuff isn’t lashed down. If you’re rig starts to get out of control, things can start flying – damaging not only your stuff, but seriously wounding (or worse) anybody that happens to get in the way. Recall, too, that your rig (especially a motorhome) is not designed to withstand a lot of twisting and the strain of a sudden “off road excursion.” Put your coach in the ditch, and the damage may be severe or irreparable.

snow-driving
R & T De Maris

For that reason, the first and foremost rule for winter driving in snow or ice is this: Just don’t. Pull off the road, turn up the heat, put on the coffee, and wait until the weather clears and the road crews get the roads back in safe (snow- and ice-free) conditions.

But what if you’re caught off guard and find yourself in a weather system while on the road? First, be prepared. Check your tire inflation. As temperatures drop, so goes your tire pressure. Tire maker Goodyear says tires can lose one to two pounds of pressure for every ten degrees of ambient air temperature drop. Low pressure tires are not only subject to damage, but also don’t have the traction of a properly inflated one. If you’re towing a trailer, make sure your hitch system is properly adjusted, and using a load equalizer system may help you keep better control. Motorhome drivers, your rig probably has standard highway tread tires, and they’re simply not designed for bad weather, particularly for snow. If you think you might be in snow country and just have to continue, consider putting on “winter shoes,” before heading out.

What about equipment? We’ve already touched on highway tires versus traction tires. What about chains? If you’re in an area where the “chains required” sign is up, you’ll have to have them. What about on the trailer? In California, if chains are required on your drive rig, then chains are also required on at least one axle of any trailer that has brakes. The same may be true in other states as well.

Driving an RV in snow makes you subject to the same issues as driving a car – only your problems are a bit larger. And while you may be the world’s most cautious driver, the other guy probably isn’t. People ahead of you may become the worse problem, doing “stupid driver tricks.” But with your rig, you have a lot of weight, and the forward momentum will keep your rig rolling right into the danger they’ve created, so the farther back you can stay from the guy ahead of you, the better.

If worse comes to worst, you may find yourself in a skidding situation. How do you cope with it? For motorhome drivers, it’s much like dealing with a skid in your car. Forget about the old, “turn into the skid” baloney. First you’d have to figure out which way the skid came from. Just LOOK AT WHERE YOU WANT YOUR RIG TO BE, and drive there. Your piloting instinct puts your rig where you look – if you look at where you don’t want to be (the ditch), you’ll be sure to wind up where you don’t want to be. Keep the foot off the brake!

Trailers add an additional element to skidding, and the cause of the skid will dictate how to deal with it.

• Hitting the brakes too hard, locking up your wheels is one way to head into a skid. When driving on snow, keep the speed down, and when braking, go EASY on the brakes. Slow down slowly, if you will.

• Over-steering is the next issue – making turns too sharply. Just like braking in the snow, turning in the snow means easing into steering.

• Over-accelerating: When moving out from a dead stop, ease onto the accelerator very gently until your trailer is “with you,” then give it more fuel.

• Driving too fast: A principal reason for skidding is just trying to take it too fast. Pay attention to the old trucker’s admonition: “Snow? Go SLOW. Ice? No go.” We’ll assume you’re in a snowy condition and you’ve gotten yourself in a skid. What’s happened? If your rear wheels have lost traction, get off the gas, but don’t hit the brakes. Here’s where it can get real scary with a trailer, because if you can’t get it back into control, a jackknife is the likely outcome. Stay off the brakes, look where you want to be, and go for it. As you begin to regain control, the forces involved will then likely push you the other way, and you’ll need to keep working the steering wheel until you’ve finally recovered – or crashed, whichever comes first. Sound scary? Absolutely! All the more reason to try and avoid being out on the roads when the snow falls.

• Stopping in a turn: Let’s say you’re doing well, but then ahead of you there’s an accident. If you’re heading straightforward, a stop is much easier than if in a turn but, sadly, accidents don’t always cooperate. If you’re in a turn and need to stop, what’s to do? Understand that your rig has much more traction when going straight ahead than in a turn. As crazy as it sounds, you may find it better to straighten your wheels, then brake. If there’s flat ground off the road, so much the better. But if there’s a ditch, you may well end up in it. However, it’s easier to pull a rig out of a ditch that’s “nosed in” as opposed to trying to get a big unit out of the ditch that’s gone in sideways. Either way, there’s going to be some nasty repercussions.

• Steep grade ahead: When traction is in question, it’s best to avoid them altogether. But again, if you’re forced into this situation, SLOW WAY DOWN, and do it long before you hit the grade. If you hit the grade too fast, you’ve already committed to a disaster.

Finally, the big disclaimer: Ice and snow on the roads makes driving hazardous for any vehicle. Add in driving an RV makes the hazard increase exponentially. Our strongest recommendation is STAY OFF THE ROAD if ice or snow is present. If you decide to proceed, our suggestions are meant as informational only, based on the best information we could research. We’re not accountable for any misfortune that befalls you if you apply these suggestions.

##RVT773; ##RV123-1/16/17 ##RVDT1264

RV too long for that site? Maybe not.

By Bob Difley

When a National Park’s or Forest Service’s campground designates a maximum length limitation, what does that mean? You’ve seen it in campground guides and on entry kiosks: “Maximum size 27 feet,” for instance. So, driving a 28-foot Class C, or towing a 28-foot fiver, you crossed it off as a potential camping location, and possibly missed an opportunity to visit what might be a wonderful national treasure or a “nesty” forest campsite beside a tumbling stream.

Unfortunately, that would be making a mistake. The maximum length referred to means that all the campsites in the campground will accommodate that length. But … some will also accommodate longer lengths, sometimes much longer. The people in charge, or at least those that write the rules (probably at the advice of the lawyers), do not want to officially include longer lengths when maybe only three or four campsites will fit longer lengths; and if those are taken but smaller ones remain open, they may get in a tangle with someone with a longer RV urging them to move someone with a shorter rig out of the larger site and into a smaller site.

Not that I blame them at wanting to avoid such hassles. But knowing that does open up some options. If you can fit into the campsite, they cannot tell you to leave. And often, the measurement is made from the wheel barrier at the rear of the campsite to the front. So, when you back in, your overhang extends over the barrier adding quite a few feet to the length that will fit. But watch out for those wood posts that some campgrounds use. Your overhang may not clear them. And there might be several sites that are long enough even without the overhang factor.

When you arrive at a campground that has a stated maximum length, drive around the campground and if you find one you fit into — no extending into the road, into foliage in the rear, or onto other obstructions — take it. It’s unlikely that you will find a host or ranger that will ask your length unless they know exactly which sites are open and whether you will fit in any of them.

In national parks, it’s a bit more difficult, especially on busy holidays and weekends. If the park is filled every day, those that assign campsites may hold to the size maximum to reduce chaos, so plan to arrive early mid-week, before they start to fill up, when you can scout for larger sites on your own.

You can find Bob Difley’s RVing e-books on Amazon Kindle.

#RVT773 ##RVDT1266