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Is runoff from fiberglass roof staining sides of RV?

By Chris Dougherty
Certified RV technician

Dear Chris,
I am getting white streaks on the side of my Newmar Ventana RV from the water from the roof AC units. They are next to impossible to remove with anything that will not harm the finish. Newmar and others say the fiberglass roof oxidizes in the sun and the AC water picks up the resulting particulates, and that’s the cause. Hard for me and Wade Maid folks to believe my new coach roof would be doing that so soon (I took delivery July 2014). Another tech thinks minerals are from the metal in the AC Unit. Ideas? —Ed

Dear Ed,
Streaks from the roof are a common occurrence with RVs, and there are a few fixes that can help. First, the air conditioner is not the cause, and no metals are coming from it. I’m more in line with the roof oxidation theory, or a lot of dirt and environmental fallout causing the stubborn stains.

Wax is your best friend in this regard. A well waxed fiberglass or aluminum surface is much easier to clean, and is protected from soils settling into the surface, being difficult to remove. I think if you wash and then wax the fiberglass roof, and then the sides, any soils that find their way down will be much easier to remove.

I would advise using the highest quality wax for fiberglass you can find for the roof. There are a number of good ones, especially in the marine industry that might provide a longer lasting, more durable finish.

Although I am not familiar with Wade Maid, I agree that extreme oxidation with such a young unit is unusual, but by no means impossible. In fact, I really don’t see it happening the way you describe without exposure to a caustic substance.

If the roof finish is becoming rough or badly faded already, I would discuss the situation with the manufacturer and/or your selling dealer to get a visual inspection to make sure there is no physical problem with the fiberglass sheets used for the roof. I would do this sooner than later, so it is documented during the warranty period.

RV holding tank valves: Which is which?

You don’t have to be new to RVing to be a bit confused by some of the things RV manufacturers do. Here’s a quote from an RVer, “I have a 2008 Pilgrim Lite. And in my old age I can’t remember which is my black tank lever and which is the gray tank. Front or rear? The bottom of the trailer is covered so I can’t see the pipes.”

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Photo: Obsidian Soul on wikimedia

Bless RV manufacturers, for some reason they seem to like to do things on the cheap. If it cost a penny more for a dump valve handle that was anything other than black, they’d be sure to justify making both the gray water and black water handles black by saying they couldn’t afford the colorful one.

This leaves RVers with a “new to them” RV, or who’ve just can’t remember, in the unenviable position of trying to guess which lever to pull first. If you’re new to tank dumping, here’s something to learn and remember: Always dump the black water first, close the valve, then dump the grey water. Why? Because the gray water will then flush the nasty Klingons out of the sewer hose and make your life, oh-so-much easier.

Okay, here’s the case of knowing which valve handle is which. If you have an owner’s manual for your RV look there first. Chances are, if you bought a used RV, you don’t have the manual.

Next up, if your rig has “compartmentized” your dump valves (a lot of motorhomes do this), look in around in the compartment and on the inside of the compartment door for a diagram that may explain in Egyptian-style hieroglyphics which handle dumps which tank. Don’t understand hieroglyphics? Take a picture of them, and tell your significant other this is a great reason to take that vacation to Egypt to find a translator.

Seriously, if the above two steps fail, we’re down to down and dirty. Yep, crawl down to the ground level and hope against hope, that unlike the poor fellow with the 2008 Pilgrim Lite that your bottom isn’t covered and you can see your pipes. Well, be careful about that. Anyway, if you CAN see the pipes coming down to the dump valves, a giveaway for what’s what is that the black water line coming to the valve will be a BIG one, that is 3″ in diameter, while the line to the gray water is smaller, in the neighborhood of 2″ or maybe even less.

And what if you find that you can’t see what size pipes you have? Then it’s going to be (drumroll please), a CRAPSHOOT! Take your rig to a proper dump station, hook up your sewer hose to the outlet port, and repeat after me: “Eeny-meeny, miney-moe,” while pointing your finger back and forth between the two levers. With an assistant carefully observing the outfall of the sewer hose, pull one (just one!) of the levers, and have the assistant report what comes shooting out of the sewer hose. Once you’ve established what’s coming out the hose, you can associate the lever you pulled with the tank it’s attached to.

Now, using masking tape and other appropriate material, mask off the areas surrounding the dump lever that’s associated with grey water, and spray paint that handle with a color other than black. Gray might be an appropriate choice here. That way when dumping your tanks you can repeat the old acronym, TBOF – “Tug Black One First,” and you’ll be dumping your tanks in the proper order.

Your new RV: Where will you store it?

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By Chuck Woodbury

If you are planning to buy a recreational vehicle but are unsure where you will store it when not using it, you are asking for trouble. In many cases, finding a place to store an RV is as hard as or harder than finding a place to buy one.

If you are lucky enough to live in a single family home with space on the property suitable for parking an RV, that’s the best option. In communities where there are no laws that restrict where a recreational vehicle can be parked, any spot large enough on the property will do.

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Short of having an enclosed garage, a shelter like this is an excellent place to store an RV.

Many RVers lay a special concrete or gravel pad that serves as home to their RV when it’s not rolling down the highway. Others purchase special shelters designed specially for RVs. In rare cases, a home will include a garage large enough to store the RV. Class B motorhomes, which are about the size of a pickup in size and height, are often easily stored in a regular car garage.

In many communities, storing an RV on residential property is illegal. But be warned about RV storage: Hardly a week passes that another community across North America does not pass legislation that dictates where an RV can or can’t be parked. The most “generous” laws prohibit an RV from being parked on the street in front of the owner’s property except for brief periods for loading and unloading. But often as not, the laws also prohibit RV owners from storing their vehicle on their property in any place where it’s visible to the public. So a front yard, driveway or even side yard would be off-limits. Violators pay a hefty fine.

Before buying an RV with the idea of storing it on your property when not in use, check with your city or county to see if there are any laws that deal with where an RV can be parked. If there are no such laws, nose around to see if any are in the works. The usual reason that “no parking” laws are passes are because of complaints that RVs are “eyesores” or they block motorists’ views and present a traffic hazard.

RVers who live in condos, apartments or homes where it’s either illegal to park on the property or physically impossible often opt to rent a space in a commercial storage facility. Some are dedicated to recreational vehicles only, but most are within a self-storage complex where customers store the miscellany of their lives in walk-in lockers and garages. Prices range from a low of $100 a month to as high as $400 depending on the size of the RV and the locations (more in big cities).

But beware of the downside of these places. In a survey at RVtravel.com, of the more than 2,400 responses, nearly one in six of the RVers noted that their rigs had been vandalized; about half of the RVers who left comments said that the crimes had occurred while their RV was parked at a storage facility, even in those “secure ones” enclosed by fences.

So where will you store your new RV? It’s not always so easy, so do your homework. Perhaps a friend or relative has room. You might need to keep it miles from your home because there is no space nearby. But the main thing new RVers should not forget is make sure they know darn well where their RV can be stored when it’s not in use.

What’s best for a beginning RVer, trailer or motorhome?

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  By Chuck Woodbury

For many RVers, the first big decision is whether to buy a motorized or non-motorized rig. The two most popular types are the travel trailer and the motorhome, with variations including the folding camping trailer (also called pop-up or tent trailer), truck camper and fifth wheeler.

There are many considerations to make when deciding which is best, but they boil down to two things: budget and how the RV will be used.

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Class C motorhomes are designed more for vacations and light use. A Class A motorhome is generally favored by full-timers.

Beginning RVers, especially those on a budget, will often opt for a travel trailer, sometimes even a folding camping trailer, or pop-up. These come in many sizes, from very short and light pop-ups that can be pulled by just about any car, to longer and heavier travel trailers that require a more powerful tow vehicle.

Another version of the travel trailer is the fifth wheel trailer, which must be pulled by pickup truck. A 5th wheel trailer is the most popular towable among full-timers, who appreciate the extra room it affords over a travel trailer.

Perhaps the biggest advantage to any towable, whether a trailer, tent trailer or fifth wheeler, is that when you arrive at your destination you can unhook the tow vehicle from the trailer and use it to run errands or explore the local area. This is a huge advantage over a motorhome, where your home is also your motor vehicle, and once camped, it’s a chore to move again.

And foot-for-foot, a trailer or fifth wheel trailer is less expensive than a motorhome. This makes perfect sense because the towable has no engine — an expensive component of any motorized RV.

A motorized RV has advantages, too. For one, everything is in one unit — your home and your motor vehicle. Driving down the highway, it’s easy for passengers to walk back into the rig to grab something to eat, watch a video, or simply sit at the dinette and play cards. RVers with children find this especially nice, as it’s easier to keep the kids entertained on long trips (remember to be sure everyone is wearing a seat belt!)

Once at the campground, the motorhome can transform from vehicle to “home” in a matter of a few minutes. Just level it up, plug into the hookups (where available) and that’s it.

The disadvantage to the motorhome, besides being far more expensive than a towable, is that once you are parked for the night, you have no vehicle to drive to the general store to grab a quart of milk or to explore local attractions. For RVers who move around a lot, staying in one location only a day or two at a time, a motorhome makes perfect sense. But for those who spend weeks or longer in one place, a trailer with its detachable tow vehicle may be better. This is why many full-timers who stay months in one place, opt for a towable.

Some motorhome owners tow a small car behind, and use this for local exploring. This works fine, but can be costly, as there are two motorized vehicles to maintain instead of one. Options to pulling a car are to bring a long a lightweight motorcycle (or electric bicycle) or a bicycle. A two-wheeler can transport you to destinations too far away to reach on foot, and the cost is minimial beyond the initial investment.

Another option for motorhomers is to rent a car when staying in one place for an extended period. Rental cars are inexpensive and for motorhomers who usually move around a lot, but on occasion park for longer, the cost of a short-term car rental now and then is far less than towing a car behind all the time just to use every so often.

One final option is a truck camper. These units fit on the bed of a pickup truck. The larger ones are sometimes equipped with a slideout and can be roomy and packed with amenities. For RVers who already own a pickup truck, a truck camper is an inexpensive way to get into RVing. Most of the camper units can be easily detached from the truck at the campground, leaving the camper to be used as “house” and the truck as the motor vehicle.

Top ten researched used RVs in 2015

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If you’re in the market to buy a used RV, you may be interested in what the “rest of the crowd” is shopping for. Used RV appraisal guide book producer, NADA Guides, looked back over the year 2015 and broke out statistics on what rigs looky-loos were eyeballing on their websites. Here come the stats!

Top 10 Researched Class A Motorhome Brands

Winnebago 20%
Allegro 14%
Monaco 13%
Holiday Rambler 12%
Bounder 8%
Itasca 7%
Coachmen 7%
Damon 7%
National RV 6%
Pace-Arrow 6%

Top 10 Researched Class C Motorhome Brands

Winnebago 20%
Coachmen 15%
Four Winds 13%
Tioga 11%
Gulf Stream 10%
Jayco 9%
Jamboree 7%
Itasca 7%
Forest River Sunseeker 5%
Dutchmen 3%

Top 10 Researched Travel Trailer Brands

Keystone 30%
Jayco 21%
Dutchmen 7%
Rockwood 7%
Prowler 6%
Coachmen 6%
Starcraft 6%
R-Vision Trail Lite 6%
Gulf Stream 6%
Airstream 5%

Top 10 Researched Fifth Wheel Brands

Keystone 44%
Jayco 14%
Heartland 11%
Wildcat 5%
Crossroads 5%
Prowler 5%
Coachmen 4%
Forest River Cardinal 4%
Cedar Creek 4%
NuWa 4%

Top 10 Researched “Camping Trailer” (Pop-Up) Brands

Coleman 27%
Jayco 18%
Starcraft 13%
Rockwood 12%
Fleetwood 9%
Forest River Flagstaff 7%
Palomino 7%
Viking 5%
Coachmen 5%
Dutchmen 3%

Top 5 Researched Truck Camper Brands

Lance 54%
Palomino 17%
Arctic Fox 15%
Starcraft 7%
Bigfoot 7%

Visit Mars without leaving America

mars.739
By Chuck Woodbury

If you’re like me and wish you could go to Mars, well, you’re in for a disappointment. It’s not going to happen —maybe for our grand kids.

Still, I consider myself fortunate to have lived in a time when I am able to view amazing, high definition photos of the Red Planet taken by our rovers. It’s not like being there, but it’s pretty darn close and convenient considering we don’t have to take a four-month spaceflight to get there.

dv-739-2There is one place here on Earth, close to home for we North Americans, where someone can feel very much like they’re on Mars, and that’s Death Valley National Park in Southern California. If you have seen photos of Mars, then you can see by my photo above that Death Valley offers a very similar landscape. And good news: you can breath the air!

Not all of Death Valley looks like this. The Furnace Creek oasis, only about ten miles from where I took this photo, is studded with palm trees. Water gushes from the ground, providing plenty of life support for plants and humans, too. There are even fish in Death Valley, which you can’t say about Mars. But don’t bring your fishing pole. These are just little fellows, maybe an inch or so long. They’re called Pupfish. They’re endangered so don’t try bringing one home.

There are several campgrounds at Furnace Creek. Sunset Campground is huge — just a big flat parking lot. But it can hold hundreds of RVs (no hookups). If the other two campgrounds are full (Furnace Creek and Texas Springs) you can always hole up there. You can walk from all three of the campgrounds to the Furnace Creek village with its Park Visitor Center, general store, cafe, bar and museums. Furnace Creek Campground, by the way, has hookup sites.

You should avoid Death Valley in the summer. A cool day would be 100. But it’s usually hotter.

 

Truck stop overnighting — be safe out there!

By Russ and Tiña De Maris

When RVers think of “pavement camping,” it’s often in terms of a “necessary evil,” sort of way. We need the sleep, we need a place to put up, and we don’t care to spend a small fortune to get a few hours of Zs. Walmart is likely to be the first place to drop anchor. But truck stops, too, can fill the bill. But few of us want to spend any more time than necessary in a truck stop. Trucks are running in and out, 24/7, and “reefer” units sounding off can just about kill even the hopes of the deepest sleeper. But hey, sometimes that’s about all that’s available to the weary wanderer. But are they a safe place for us?

truck-stop-car-739We’ve spent our fair share of nights in truck stops, and we know plenty that have. How safe staying in a truck stop often depends on the attitude of the commercial drivers who bring those big rigs through. Witness the case of Dave and Shirley, who rolled their motorhome into a big truck stop one night. They got a rude–and jarring–awakening at around five in the morning. Their car alarm was bleating like a sick sheep, and Dave, bailing out of the motorhome, watched a rapidly retreating semi-truck skating for the exit–just moments before he spotted the remains of the rear end of his toad car, lying in a number of pieces in the parking lot.

Witnesses told Dave that a semi-driver had looped around the rear of the toad car, which had been neatly mounted on a tow dolly. The trucker caught the rear of the car, working hard to yank it of the dolly. The driver then stopped–presumably for a better look–and then headed out of the lot. The mystery hit-and-runner was never caught. Dave’s insurance company paid the freight for the trucker, and the couple were toadless for several days while the car was repaired.

So is the moral of the story, “Don’t park in a truck stop”? Not necessarily. Commercial drivers mention that drivers rolling into truck stops are often tired out, bored, and under pressure to get their mandated off-road time done. Paying attention may not have as high a value as getting paid. If you park in a truck stop, try and find a quiet corner. If you have a rig you can back in (obviously out for Dave), you’re probably better off putting yourself in a back-in spot. Don’t park on a “corner spot” where your rig will be exposed to the danger of every passing rig making too close a cut.

Where truck stops–like Flying J for example–have a designated “RV” parking area, avail yourself of it. Nothing “chaps the hide” of a long-haul driver when he rolls into a truck stop that has dedicated RV parking and finds that instead of taking advantage of it, RVers are needlessly parking in the big-truck lot, which may already be crowded. All it takes is a hot-head with a grudge and 65,000 pounds of mass and 300 horsepower to ruin your whole day.

Driving your RV part 1: Keep it visible

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By Russ and Tiña De Maris

Says the RV salesman: “If you can drive a car, you can drive a motorhome!” While many of the “driving” principles are the same, driving a motorhome–or any other kind of RV–can present challenges to the fledgling RVer. In a series, we’ll discuss how to get used to driving (or towing) your RV. This is part 1 on how to ensure visibility in your RVing lifestyle.

Most of us RV because we yearn to see new places. But seeing in your RV is more than scenery, it’s also safe operating and not clobbering anything along the way.

Looking forward: If anything, the view from most motorhomes looking ahead is clear, and sometimes a mite distracting. If you have a penchant for sticking things on the windshield, make sure they don’t block your view. Keeping stick-ons low is best. Remember though, not all states are windshield “stick on legal.” Yes, radar detectors are legal in Arizona, but if you stick them (or anything else) on the windshield you can be pulled over, even cited. I know from first-hand experience having done a “ride along” with a state trooper.

Side swiped? When evaluating a motorhome for purchase keep a close eye on side view. This is where motorhome designers often come up short. Windshield pillars can be in “just the wrong place” and adversely your view to the side, giving unwanted blind spots. Some motorhome side windows are so small or blocked up with hardware they too, mess up the view. You can’t move them or eliminate them but you may think twice before buying a rig with “junk” in the way of your view.

backup mirror
While mirror is good in size, tying up half with a convex mirror defeats the purpose. R&T De Maris photo.

Looking back: Rear-view mirrors are a CRITICAL issue with RVs. You can’t just toss a look back over your shoulder to see what’s going on, you must rely on mirrors. Again, motorhome designers don’t always have it right, window frames can block the view of a mirror. It may not be necessary to pass up a motorhome that has this fault as you may be able to relocate the mirror for clear vision.

The larger the mirror, the better the view. One source tells us that they feel the minimum adequate size for a rear view mirror on either a motorhome or tow vehicle is 10″ x 7″. If you’re putting together a tow package and your OEM mirrors aren’t adequate, skip the idea of adding a fender mounted mirror. They’re just too far away from the driver’s position to give safe judgment. Whatever mirrors you use, make sure they’re mounted tightly and have no loose adjustments. A vibrating mirror will throw a distorted–even useless–image your direction.

Convex mirrors are a godsend to RVers. Giving a wide-angle view, they eliminate a lot of blind-spots where small cars may be hiding out and can keep you from a smash-up when lane changing. “Stick on” convex mirrors can be added to existing mirrors but they then reduce the amount of “normal” mirror image, making for an unsafe condition. You’re better off adding an auxiliary convex mirror above or below the existing mirror, fixed on its own mount.

You may need to add extensions for mirrors on tow vehicles to get them out far enough to see around the trailer. Some factory equipped tow rigs (recent Chevy Silvarados as an example) have a wonderful setup: Push a button in the rig and the tow mirror extends out from the side of the rig. Done towing? Hit the button to retract it.

Rear vision cameras add a high tech back view. Some motorhomes come with these gems direct from the factory; they can also be added as an aftermarket item. They can be a wonderful asset when backing up into a site, or keeping an eye on the “toad car.” Similarly, back up cams can be mounted in the bumper of a tow vehicle making it easier to back up to hitch a conventional travel trailer.

In our next part, we’ll discuss how you can cope with the seemingly behemoth size of an RV.

#nrv

Six safety tips for overnight RV parking at casinos

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By Jane Kenny

Question: Why do you suppose so many RVers are attracted to casino parking lots?

Answer: It’s the free overnight parking.

RVers looking for a place to “blacktop boondock” (dry camping, parking lot style — overnight) soon discover there aren’t too many places that allow free overnight parking. Most states discourage overnight parking at interstate rest areas, Shopping centers ask RVs to leave at the end of the business day and even some 24-hour supercenters have posted “No Overnight Parking” signs. You can usually stay overnight at a truck stop, but their parking areas tend to be crowded and noisy.

Screen Shot 2016-04-22 at 4.33.40 PMCasino parking lots, on the other hand, are hospitable. Casinos throughout the country welcome adult campers because they know they might get additional business. And the travelers get a quiet, safe spot to rest for the night without being hassled. Since most casinos are open 24/7, security personnel are on duty all night

Here are a few safety tips for free overnight parking (blacktop boondocking) at casinos:

1) After pulling in, check with security to verify whether you can stay overnight in the parking lot and ask where they want you to park.

2) If the casino has a fee-pay campground as part of the facility, it is essential to check with security to ask about your options for staying overnight. Some casinos will allow you to stay in the parking lot anyway. But there are a number of casinos that require you to pull into their campground if you want to stay for the night.

3) Blacktop boondockers: limit your free overnight stay to a single 24-hour period.

4) If there is no designated area for large vehicles, park on the perimeter of the lot. Don’t take up spaces intended for cars. (Note that casinos in crowded urban areas do not have space to accommodate RVs. Be sure to get permission before you park.)

5) Don’t abuse the property owner’s hospitality. A parking lot is not a campground. If there’s enough space, it’s okay to open a slideout, but restrict your activity to the inside of your vehicle.

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6) Do not leave your RV unattended overnight or for any extended period of time. This may seem like simple, common sense advice, but you’d be surprised at how many folks park their expensive units in a parking lot and then go off to visit friends for a few days. If you are foolish enough to do this, don’t be surprised upon your return to find your unattended vehicle has been towed away.

“Boondocking” at a casino is convenient. Casinos are located all over the country; many within a mile or two of an interstate exit. RV-friendly casinos are listed in the popular guide, Casino Camping from Roundabout Publications.

“Blacktop boondocking” at a casino is comfortable. You have your home with you, so you can either walk or take the shuttle bus to and from the casino. You can play shorter, more relaxing gaming sessions with breaks in between. For couples, when one wants to play cards or slots and the other doesn’t, there’s no problem. And then there’s the obvious benefit: “blacktop boondocking” at RV-Friendly casinos is free!

Casino Camping, A Guide to RV-Friendly Casinos is available at Amazon.com.

#FB-4/24/16

Boondocking 101: Solar power for your RV

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By Russ and Tiña De Maris

For those who haven’t experienced boondocking, a question often pops up: “Where do you get the stuff you need to make your trip fun, and not a bunch of misery sitting around a candle every night when the sun goes down?” For the boondocker, electricity has to come from somewhere. For some, a mechanical fossil fuel-fired generator is the answer. Others find solar or even wind power a happier alternative. Solar and wind power are quiet and the “fuel” costs are free.

In general, solar panels and wind generators produce low voltage direct current (DC) that charges your RV batteries. The batteries store the power up for use when needed–even when the solar panels or wind generators aren’t producing power. What about “shore power” devices like microwave ovens, computers, or televisions? Most of these can be operated from stored battery power through the use of an inverter, which changes DC battery power into alternating current (AC) power that’s palatable to your shore power equipment.

So, will these “alternative” electrical sources, wind or solar, work for you? In most cases, yes. It really comes down to how much power you use. What’s true for one “RV family” probably won’t hold true for the next. Space doesn’t allow us to go into detail on how to calculate how much power your own lifestyle uses, so we’ll need to use a few generalities.

How Much Power?
All of us need electricity to operate our lighting system, maybe running a couple of lights for four hours a day. It’ nice to keep the dishes clean, and take an occasional shower, so electricity will be required for the RV water pump. Let’s say that water pump will run a total of 45 minutes a day. Most of us will want to watch a little TV–maybe three hours a day. If you’re boondocking in cooler weather, you’ll wind up running the furnace fan to take the chill off–let’s say just two hours a day. The power these devices consume is measured in “amps,” and adding the factor of “how long” they’re used equates to a figure called “amp hours.”

Using “typical” consumption figures for these devices in our hypothetical example, our generalized RVer will use about 43-amp hours of electricity per day. How many solar panels, or how big a wind generator? Whoa, pardner! First let’s talk about where you’re going to put that electricity.

A common misconception is that your lights, pumps, TVs, computers, etc., all draw their needs directly from solar panels or wind generators. But the sun doesn’t shine at night–when you need those lights, and sometimes the wind doesn’t blow. And even with the sun shining brightly, the panels may not be producing enough power to meet a peak of power consumption. Enter your electrical “bank account.”

battery-739RV Batteries: Your Power “Bank Account”
RV batteries are like a “savings account,” for electrical power. With them you can save up the power your solar panels produce, and are critical for wind generator folks who probably produce far more power on a windy day than they can consume. Specially designed “deep cycle” batteries are made for “house” use, that is, they can store and provide power for powering lights, pumps, etc. These batteries customarily produce low amounts of current over a long time. If you’re a “motorhomer,” you’ll also have one or more “starting, lighting, ignition” (SLI) batteries which are designed simply to start up and operate your motorhome engine and associated “running” operations.

When choosing batteries for your RV, never try to make an SLI battery do the job of a house battery–it won’t live long enough to tell the tale. Deep cycle batteries for house use are built differently, designed to be deeply discharged and recharged many, many times. SLI batteries produce a lot of current real fast–needed for starting up an engine–and then need to be quickly recharged.

Here’s the first place you need to know how much power you actually use. A properly designed electrical system for boondocking has the right amount of battery capacity to provide your electrical needs for at least two days, while only discharging the batteries to half of their capacity. Why so? Well, you may run into a situation where the sun doesn’t shine for a day, and you’ll need that extra reserve to keep you going. And the other part of the equation? If a house battery is often discharged to less than half its capacity, its longevity will quickly be reduced. Deep cycle batteries can be expensive, so you want to keep them happy and healthy.

So let’s take our hypothetical example, where our RVer uses 43 amp-hours of electricity per day. When he “shops” for RV batteries, he’ll need to have a battery bank with a minimum capacity of 172 amp hours. How so? Double the use, 43 times 2 equals 86, and then never allow the batteries to be discharged to less than half their capacity, so double that again, 86 times 2 equals 172 amp hours of storage capacity. Since it’s a rare day when you’ll find a single deep-cycle battery that will have this kind of capacity, you’ll need to get more than one battery and wire them properly to get the desired amount of capacity. Let’s say our friend finds 12 volt batteries with a capacity of 80 amp-hours. He’d need three of them to meet the needs–and he’d have some extra capacity left over, as his “bank” would provide 240 amp-hours capacity.

Now that we know what our “bank account” looks like in terms of capacity, let’s talk about how to put “money in the bank.”

solar739Solar: The Primary RV Alternative
Most boondockers start out with solar panels as their primary “alternative energy” source. How much solar power do you need? Figure for every amp-hour of battery capacity, you’ll need a ½ a watt of solar panel power. So in our hypothetical example, our RVer could really get away with 120 watts of solar power for his battery bank, provided he boondocks where there’s good solar exposure. What is good exposure? Solar panels need to “see” full sun. Add even a bit of a shadow across their surface, or a tiny bit of cloudiness, and energy production drops off significantly. When we consider panel production, we assume six good hours of sunshine a day. If you boondock in cloudy areas, you’ll need more solar panel muscle. Figure ¾ of a watt per amp-hour of battery capacity.

Mind you, you’ll wind up buying more than just solar panels. Solar panels, left to themselves, can overcharge (read “cook”) your batteries. And at night, left to themselves, panels can likewise discharge your batteries. What’s needed is a electronic “middle man” who controls the flow of electricity. When the batteries are full, the flow of current is cut off. At night, power is not allowed back up to the panels. That “middle man” is a solar regulator, which acts as a kind of automatic switch.

Where does that leave you in terms of dollars and cents? You can buy all the individual components needed, or some outfits will sell you a complete package. A glance at a popular Internet RV solar retailer shows a package, including 200 watts of solar panels, mounting brackets (that allow for easy roof placement of the panel), and a regulator for $349. Add a few bucks for wiring, and you’ve got your stuff. Of course, if you don’t feel comfortable installing a system, you’d have to add installation charges.

But what if your power needs are greater than our hypothetical example? Or what if your needs changed, and you need more power? The beauty of solar power is that it can be expanded with relative ease. Another panel can be mounted on the roof and wired into the existing system without much effort. If our RVer found he needed another 100 watts of power, he could find a suitable panel to add into the system for around $150. Mind you, these are new equipment prices. If you frequent heavily traveled RV hot spots like Quartzsite, Arizona, you’ll find solar dealers often have used equipment for less money. Since solar panels don’t “wear out,” a used panel is not like buying a used car–they’re far more dependable.

RV stove on the fritz? Or Fritz on the RV stove?

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Dear RV Shrink:
rvshrinkThank you for the reminder that we should have our alarms tested periodically. After reading your column we tested all of ours and had problems with two of them.

Two months later we were glad we did the testing. It wasn’t something normal like a failed gas fitting. Our stove top burner “went on the fritz” just as we went to bed one night. I smelled gas before the alarm sounded. I jumped out of bed and started investigating just as the buzzer went berserk. In the kitchen I could hear the gas hissing from the stove. I knew exactly what happened immediately. The stove didn’t go on the fritz, Fritz went on the stove.

Yes, our cat, Fritz, got a wild hair up his hind end and was running around the motorhome. He does that on occasion. His gets that wild look in his eyes and runs from end to end of the motorhome as if he is chasing something, or something is chasing him. From what I can figure, he ran across the couch, jumped up on the stove, and as he dove from the stove top his back leg must have pushed in on the knob and twisted it at the same time.

A freak accident for sure, but one that could have been a cat-astrophe had we not smelled the gas or the alarm was not functioning. —Thank you in Zion

Dear Zion:
Glad to hear a happy ending to what could have been a totally different ending to this story.

Yes, it is often the unexpected that can cause serious problems. You can’t prepare for every situation, but having working sensor alarms are your first line of defense. Everyone should check these devices on a regular basis.

You might want to cover your knobs or block Fritz’s path to the stove in case he decides to make a habit out of stove Free BASE jumping. —Keep Smilin’, RV Shrink

The RV Shrink is not really a psychologist (or professional RV technician). But he does know a lot.

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