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Driving your RV part 2: Coping with size

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By Russ and Tiña De Maris

Looking at the RVs owned by some new RVers, you might think they made their purchase at a scratch and dent sale. While RVers, for the most part–including new ones–don’t get in major accidents, “getting too close to something” seems to be a way of life for those getting accustomed to driving a “big” rig.

It’s likely that compared to what you’ve been driving most of your life an RV is much bigger. Not only is it longer, it’s probably much taller, and possibly a bit wider. Out on the open road these factors aren’t usually a big problem. But put you and your RV in a tight spot, say maneuvering around a fuel island or small campground, and that size suddenly becomes a huge issue.

Keeping out of trouble with your new RV means two things: Knowledge and practice. It’s important to be knowledgeable about your RV’s characteristics. We’re often surprised to find RVers who simply don’t have a clue as to how tall their rig is. Get an accurate measurement, then write it down where the driver can see it. Using a “tape gun” or label maker and printing the information in large print really helps. Put the information close by: A good place is on the upper portion of the windshield. When you approach a low bridge or awning at a fuel station you’ll have the information you need to know whether or not you can make the passage.

Some snicker at this idea, but a couple we know once got “off the beaten track” while towing their travel trailer in an unfamiliar town. Before they knew it, they tried passing under a railroad overpass and literally peeled the roof off their new travel trailer. It took several days out of their vacation plans and the help of their insurance company to put themselves back together.

Practice putting your RV through turns before you get in a ticklish situation. An empty parking lot, an assistant, and some cardboard boxes set up to simulate obstacles can help you see how easily (or how difficult) you can steer and make corners. A major issue that new RVers often run into (literally as well is figuratively) is the phenomenon known as tail swing.

Tail swing “happens” when you steer one direction and the rear end of the rig goes the other. How’s that? We can illustrate it with a pencil. Take a pencil in your hand, holding it parallel to the floor. Pretend the point of the pencil is the front of your RV; the eraser, the rear end. Now “drive” your RV into a left turn. As you do, you’ll find the eraser swings out to the right.

In an automobile you don’t notice the effect of tail swing near as much, as the pivoting point of the car (the rear wheels) is fairly close to the rear bumper. In a motorhome the rear wheels can be quite far away from the back bumper, and the effect of tail swing is multiplied. Now picture yourself at the fuel island with your big motorhome. You’ve parked close enough to the pumps to stretch the fuel hose to the tank. When it’s time to pull out, if you don’t pull far enough forward before making your turn, the rear end of the motorhome can easily meet up with stationary objects (like a fuel pump) with embarrassing consequences. This same effect can plague RVers yanking a trailer.

With a motorhome, carefully watching the rear view mirror can help you see where your tail swing can take you. With a travel trailer, you’ll be blind on the right side as you make a left turn and vise-versa. Practice is where tail swing problems can be accounted for. Drive your motorhome in the parking lot with a spotter ensuring you haven’t “hit” your obstacle boxes. If you’re dealing with a tow rig, the only way to get the “feel” for what your rig can and can’t do is to have someone else drive it while you stand outside and see the tail swing effect for yourself.

Next, we’ll discuss passing with an RV.

If you missed our last part on keep an eye open behind, you can find it here.

#nrv

Driving your RV part 3: Passing and being passed

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By Russ and Tiña De Maris

Driving a big motorhome or pulling a travel trailer, either way, you’ll quickly find out you don’t have the zip you’re accustomed to in your “4-wheeler.” Still, it is possible to pass slow traffic provided the circumstances allow.

pass with careCommercial truck drivers are experienced in passing slow traffic, and they provide some of the best tips for RVers on passing topics. First, you’ve got to know your vehicle. When you have a long empty road ahead of you, put your rig through the paces to see just how fast it will accelerate. With an automatic transmission, slap the accelerator down to the firewall and wind up the engine. Try it on the flat, and then compare how much longer it takes you to build up speed on an upgrade situation. When you know your rig’s capabilities, you’ll be in a much better position to put it into real practice.

When passing, allow yourself plenty of room. Make sure you can see beyond where you think you’ll be returning to your lane–no curves, grades, or blind spots. When preparing to pass, start your “run up” from far behind the vehicle you’re passing, building up the necessary passing speed so you won’t have to spend a lot of time on the other side of the centerline. Don’t run up on the “passee’s” rear bumper–it’s a good way to ask for a “brake check” when the other driver slams on his brakes.

As you pull out over the centerline, turn on your high beams and leave them on until you’re safely back in your own lane. This will give a heads-up to anyone you might not have seen coming your way, allowing them to slow down to allow you to complete a safe pass.

Professional drivers often say it’s often best to simply be patient, rather than risk a pass. They say they often find the slow drivers are ones who are locals or visitors looking for a turn; in either event they’ll likely be turning off soon. If you do happen to decide to pass a semi-truck, one way to ensure a bad reputation is to pass, then slow back down once the pass is made. If you’re following a semi up a grade, it’s often best to simply put up with him–he’ll probably go faster than you once the top of the grade is reached.

Far more often you’ll be the one somebody else wants to pass. Hill climbing can be a real killer for making good time. It seems most auto drivers are far more patient with commercial truck traffic than they are with RVers, even though both are suffering the same problems. In cases like this, it becomes incumbent on us to show a courtesy where we can. Pull to the far right side of the lane to give your tailgating friends a clear view of what’s ahead of you. If there’s a safe turnout, use it.

Next time we’ll talk about making turns while pulling trailers.

If you missed our last installment on dealing with the “largeness” of an RV, you can catch up here.

#nrv

Driving your RV part 4: Making turns with a trailer

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By Russ and Tiña De Maris

Getting accustomed to driving an RV is different for each kind of rig. Making turns in your motorhome isn’t too much different then making turns in your automobile, with the exception of knowing about tail-swing, which we talked about in an earlier post. The really LARGE motorhome driver will also need to learn to swing wider in a close turn; beyond that, it’s not a tough act to learn.

For trailer pullers, there is a bit of difference, and it’s called “tracking.” That appendage behind your tow vehicle, the trailer, will not always follow the same wheel track as the towing vehicle. Generally speaking, the smaller the trailer, the more closely to the tow vehicle the trailer will track, but extend the length of the trailer and things require more practice and a careful eye. If the trailer a fifth wheel the issue is compounded. What causes the problem? The pivot point for a travel trailer is a few feet behind the rear axle of the tow vehicle causing the rear of the tow vehicle to “steer” the trailer. The fifth wheel pivot point is directly over the tow vehicle’s axle–tracking is completely different.

Learning about how your individual trailer reacts to turning is something best gained by experience. Again, a large, empty parking lot is the ideal environment for practicing. With travel trailers, drive into a slow turn, and watch in your rear view mirror to see how the trailer follows. With a longer trailer, or with a fifth wheel, don’t be surprised if the trailer gets closer to the inside corner. That is to say, when driving ahead into a left curve your trailer will likely get closer to the oncoming lane of traffic.

The idea is to learn to compensate for this proclivity. An area where many new trailer towing folks get into trouble is negotiating a turn on a narrow street. You go to make a right turn, the trailer tracks “inside” and you may find the trailer tire going up over the curb, or worse yet, clobbering a phone pole or parked car.

swing wide turnTo overcome this problem you may find it necessary to pull a little to the opposite side before making a turn. Making a right turn? You may have to pull a bit out toward (or even over) the centerline before making the turn. You may also need to “overshoot” the turn, pulling father ahead than you would normally in order to keep the trailer from tracking into trouble. It’s a matter of experience: Use your mirrors, practice in an open lot before hitting the road.

Next,  we’ll discuss backing up your RV.

If you missed our installment on passing safely with an RV, you’ll find it here.

Driving your RV part 5: Backing up your rig

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By Russ and Tiña De Maris

backing anxiety smallFor new RVers, backing up the RV may be one of the most fearful of all of the “new” things to learn. After driving a car, an RV can look fearfully large. Backing up a rig, even a trailer, is something that most RVers get the hang of with practice.

First, a word on safety: Whenever you’re backing up a rig, trailer or motorhome, you have a big area behind you where you simply can’t see. Before backing into a site, get out and look it over for obstacles (both at ground level and high up, like tree branches). If there are children anywhere in the area, ask someone to keep an eye open for you to keep kids from getting behind you ask you back up.

When backing a trailer, always back in so that the rear of the trailer swings into the site from the driver’s side. In other words, when backing, the driver’s rear corner of the tow vehicle is the one that will be closest to the trailer during a turn. Why this way? Backing from the driver’s side allows a clear view of the trailer; backing from the passenger side is what trucker’s call “backing from the blind side.” When doing a blind-side back up, it’s nearly impossible to see where the trailer is going.

When backing in with a turn, some RVers “draw a line” into the site, indicating the path the trailer should take into the site when backing. You can do this by laying out rocks, safety cones, or even a rope or laundry line marking out the curve the trailer should follow into the site. Trailer or motorhome, pre-spot a target as to where you want the rig’s tires to be when you hit “home.” Set out a stone or other marker that you can see from the driver’s seat. When your wheels hit the mark, stop–preventing yourself from overshooting the site.

If you use a spotter to help you back in, agree on hand-signs before you start backing. Yelling back and forth is a sure-fire way to get into a huge argument and getting nothing accomplished. Walkie-talkies can be helpful, but hand signs work when batteries fail.

The old rule for steering wheel use when backing in a trailer still works best: Put your hand at the bottom of the wheel and move your hand in the direction of where you want the rear of the trailer to go. Mind you, if you’re backing a fifth-wheel, you’ll find it takes a lot more turning of the wheel to “get there” than it does in backing a conventional travel trailer. Still, the hand on the bottom of the wheel is more natural–you don’t have to stop to think “opposite” of what you do when driving forward.

Some tricks to better backing are these: First, it’s easy to “over steer,” and likewise, to hold the steering wheel locked into a turn. This is something practice will help with. Second, take a tip from the 18-wheeler drivers: Don’t be afraid to stop, pull forward, and the back up again. It may take several back-and-forward maneuvers to get into a spot. Sure, we’ve seen RVers who can practically drop a rig on a dime in one move; but that’s more the exception than the rule.

Fifth wheelers, you’ll soon learn you have to pull a lot farther ahead than a conventional trailer if you have to back into a turn. The turning point on a fifth wheel, being above the axle, just makes it take more room to back the fiver back where you want it. Travel trailer folks, contrary to what it may seem, the longer the travel trailer, really the easier it is to back it up.

Take your rig, a spotter, and a bunch of safety cones out to a big, empty parking lot and practice, practice, practice. With time, you’ll get the bugs worked out of backing.

In case you missed our last part of making turns with your RV, you can re-turn to it here. 

#nrv

RV owners sue Dometic for refrigerator defect linked to explosions and fires

April 26 update: See bottom of this article

SAN FRANCISCO (April 21, 2016) — A group of RV owners filed a nationwide class-action lawsuit against Dometic Corporation, stating that the company sold defective gas absorption refrigerators with cooling systems that can spontaneously ignite in RVs and boats, putting consumers at risk of deadly fires, explosions, loss of property and loss of the value of their RV/boat, according to consumer-rights law firm Hagens Berman.

trailer-fire-739
Photo supplied by the law firm of Hagens Berman

The lawsuit states that the defective refrigerators have caused or contributed to at least 3,000 fires since 1997, resulting in more than $100 million in property damage and personal injury claims, all of which Dometic tracked through multiple non-public, internal databases. Despite this knowledge, Dometic “failed and refused to eliminate the defects and/or provide consumers with adequate warnings,” according to the complaint.

“As millions of owners prep RVs and boats for summer activities, they’re completely unaware that the vehicles they will soon use to transport family and friends essentially contain a pressurized tank of hydrogen gas that can leak and ignite a fire,” said Steve Berman, managing partner of Hagens Berman. “While Dometic promised consumers that its refrigerators were safe for use, it chose to overlook reports of fires and failures of its products and never publicly disclosed the true risk of this defect.”

“We don’t think owners should risk their lives on every trip and have to wait for a potentially deadly hydrogen-fueled fire to get a safe refrigerator or receive payback for Dometic’s brazen misconduct,” Berman added.

The lawsuit states that every gas absorption refrigerator manufactured by Dometic since 1997 shares common technology, common cooling unit design and common defects, including the propensity of the refrigerator’s cooling unit boiler tube to corrode, crack and expel hydrogen gas at high pressure, which can spontaneously combust, or reach other ignition sources, causing a fire.

The 80-page lawsuit filed in the U.S. District Court for the Northern District of California in San Francisco seeks to force Dometic to repair or replace defective refrigerators and compensate consumers for the diminution of value of their RVs and boats as a result of these manufacturer defects.

If you own a boat or RV equipped with a Dometic gas absorption refrigerator, you may be entitled to compensation. Find out your rights and sign up for the class-action lawsuit against Dometic.

“It’s an alarming issue, especially when you consider the layout of an RV,” Berman added. “If a Dometic refrigerator were to suddenly release this pressurized, flammable gas and start a fire, occupants could easily become trapped inside.”

The suit also addresses two recalls issued by Dometic: “Defendants have used and manipulated the recall process to conceal the true dangers and safety risks inherent in their Defective Gas Absorption Refrigerators from both federal regulators and consumers. As a result, United States highways and campgrounds are flush with RVs containing Defective Gas Absorption Refrigerators that can, and with alarming regularity do, spontaneously burst into flames.” The company continues to receive new fire claims “at an alarming rate,” the suit states.

In addition, the suit states that Dometic resorted to “retaining a cadre of regionally based fire investigators, third-party claims administrators, attorneys and various engineering and metallurgical experts” upon each report of a refrigerator fire or explosion deployed “for the express purpose of diverting attention” from the refrigerators as the cause of the fire and to hide the issue from the public.

Learn more about the lawsuit.

SOURCE: News release from Hagens Berman, a consumer rights law firm with offices in 10 cities.

April 26 update from Dometic:

On April 21, a class action complaint was filed in the United States District Court for the Northern District of California. The complaint alleges that Dometic’s gas absorption refrigerators are defective.

The complaint also alleges that Dometic has failed to remediate the defects and provide adequate warnings or instructions on proper use of its gas absorption refrigerators. The complaint currently includes five individual plaintiffs.

Dometic’s opinion is that the allegations are without merit and intend to vigorously defend against them.

RV Travel Reader Pets Issue 23

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Reader Pets

dog and photographer - leftDo you travel with a pet? We’d love to introduce your pet(s) to fellow readers. Here’s what we need: a photo or two of Fido or Boots (or you with your pet) and a 150-200 word description of your furry friend(s) — name, breed, age, how long you have traveled together, what makes them special? Go ahead and brag about them if you wish! Do you have any tips for other RVing pet lovers about traveling with pets that you’ve learned along the way? Don’t forget to give us your name(s) and hometown. Send to Diane(at)RVtravel.com .


From Richard Forlani, Valatie, New York

Pets-Forlani-bed-3-28-16My wife, Jackie, found Sweet Emily at our local humane society about seven years ago after losing our two dogs to bad Chinese dog food. (I never buy anything from China anymore.) Emily had little hair (fleas) and was very insecure. There are really two dogs and two cats that make up the family, but I only took Emily on my recent trip — my first since I lost my wife last spring. There were a few lonesome moments on my trip, but Emily took care of most of them.

Pets-Forlani-3-28-16-bedEmily is a great traveling dog and has been across the country four times and has seen most of the U.S. She lives in the full-size back seat of my F150 and as long as she is back there she is content — she knows I will be back. She sleeps in the trailer with me in the queen size bed and takes up too much room.

One night coming back to our campsite after our last walk she gave me good warning that a bear was waiting right by our trailer. We backed away and waited for it to move on. Advice: No after-dark walks in the Sierras, especially if you smell like bacon!

Life is what happens … while you’re making other plans.


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From Bill and Carol Newman, near Calgary, Alberta, Canada

Pets-Newman-3-21-16-puppyThis is our dog, Elvis. He is the friendliest, best-natured doggy in the world, and we’re not biased. Elvis is a Shih Tzu – Bichon Frise cross (also called a Shichon, a Zuchon or a Teddy Bear).

Pets-Newman-3-21-16Elvis is 8 years old and has RVed with us just about all of his life (in fivers and currently our class A). Elvis is a great traveler. Kids love him and he loves people; he makes us laugh; and he is a chick magnet.

When we travel for days at a time, Elvis usually doesn’t eat much, but after we settle in a place he starts eating again. We’re told that dogs worry when their life changes, and this is possibly the case with Elvis when we travel. At truck stops when we fuel up, Elvis often gets in the driver’s seat and puts his paws on the steering wheel so he can see what is going on. The truck drivers get a great kick out of seeing him there.

Guidelines for overnighting in an RV at Wal-Mart

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Thanks to WalmartLocator.com for permission to reprint this.

Some of the most respected RV consumer clubs have joined together to support your right to park on private businesses’ parking lots overnight under the following code of conduct. The code pertains to establishments that permit “dry camping” on their lots. Dry camping means camping without the use of external hookups for electricity, water supply or waste disposal.

Industry-Sanctioned Code of Conduct
(RVers’ Good Neighbor Policy)

•Stay one night only!
•Obtain permission from a qualified individual.
•Obey posted regulations.
•No awnings, chairs, or barbecue grills outside your RV.
•Do not use hydraulic jacks on soft surfaces (including asphalt).
•Always leave an area cleaner than you found it.
•Purchase gas, food, or supplies as a form of thank you, when feasible.
•Be safe! Always be aware of your surroundings and leave if you feel unsafe.

If your plans include touring the area, staying for more than one night, or necessitate conduct not within the code, please relocate to a local campground. It’s the right thing to do!

Most of the complaints lodged regarding RV parking on business parking lots have to do with aesthetics and perceived abuse of the privilege. There are a variety of competing interests that were balanced to arrive at this industry-sanctioned code of conduct. As you can see, this Code of Conduct is nothing more than an RVers’ “Good Neighbor” policy.

Not following the code has serious consequences and is detrimental to the rights of all RVers. Already, some municipalities have passed ordinances to prohibit parking on private business property overnight.

Please do not take offense to this letter; it is only provided as a reminder that RVers must be perceived as good neighbors, or there will be more pressure to institute state, county and local ordinances to prohibit parking on private business property.

RV brake controllers–which for you?

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By Russ and Tiña De Maris

In another post we explained why you might need a brake controller. Now we talk about choosing one. It can be a bit confusing, as there are several different “types” of controllers, not to mention brand names.

choicesFor RVers, brake controllers fall into four different categories; two of the types are quite common in use, the other two, much less so. We’ll cover all four types.

Time (or timing) activated brake controllers: Are probably the least expensive of brake controllers on the market. We’ve seen at least one that retails in the $50 range. Time activated controllers receive a signal when you step on the tow vehicle brake, then after a predetermined interval apply a preset amount of current to the trailer brakes.

They are inexpensive, but do have a drawback: The tow vehicle does the braking to begin with, then the trailer chimes in. This puts more wear on the tow vehicle brakes, causing them to wear faster than they would normally. In the case of a lightweight trailer this might not be a real problem, but our personal recommendation is that heavier trailer owners avoid these guys.

In an emergency “panic brake” situation, the lag time between when the tow vehicle brakes and the trailer brakes come on could also be an issue. We once were towing a 28 foot fifth wheel at a fair amount of speed on an Oregon two-lane highway. Coming around a bend in the road we came face-to-face with a highway flagger standing in the middle of our lane with a STOP sign in her hand. There were no warning signs posted ahead of the curve. We laid plenty of rubber on the roadway–and when the smoke cleared we found the flagger had taken a dive out of the lane onto the shoulder. Had we been using a timed controller, the outcome would have been ugly.

Enter inertia activated controllers: A pendulum inside the controller senses the amount of deceleration of the vehicle and sends braking current to the trailer in direct proportion to the deceleration. The stopping is smoother, the wear on the tow vehicle brakes is lessened, the results overall are much better.

The hang ups? Inertial systems are best for level towing; throw in up and down hill grades and the pendulum can be “confused” resulting in less than stellar results. And (heaven forbid) you should be towing and have a catastrophic tow vehicle brake failure, the system will not sense deceleration, and simply pumping on the brakes will not lead to a tow vehicle brake actuation. If you keep your head you’ll be able to activate the “manual” lever on the controller and get the trailer brakes to wake up.

Proportional brake systems: Are perhaps the most popular among RVers. Inside the proportional controller is a gadget industry calls an accelerometer that measures the tow vehicle’s g-force in deceleration. Touch the brake and a proportion of the full amount of braking power is immediately sent to the trailer brakes; as the vehicles decelerate the controller senses this and adjusts the amount of “braking power” required for the stop.

In our terror scenario, should the tow vehicle completely lose braking power, the proportional system will still send some braking power to the trailer, helping you to begin to get the combination under control. This would theoretically give you more time to regain your composure and think to grab the manual override lever and apply all the juice. Between us, we’d rather not have to contemplate this scenario, but it’s nice to know it works.

Proportional brake controllers do cost a bit more; we’ve seen “entry level” models–those without a lot of display whistles and bells, for less than $100.

All brake controllers we’ve discussed have some amount of “adjusting” to the specific trailer they’re connected to. We don’t find it too difficult to make these adjustments, but if you’re not into a bit of fiddling, you could consider the fourth type of brake controller.

Hydraulic over electric brake controllers: These controllers are similar to their three cousins we’ve already mentioned–they send electrical current out to the trailer brake system. However, these characters add a sensor to the tow vehicle’s hydraulic brake system and use the brake system pressure to gauge how much current to send to the brakes.

Simply put, step lightly on the brakes, a small amount of current is sent. Step a little harder, more current is sent, and so on. They’re easier to “learn,” and some claim no “adjusting” is required to set up a new trailer.

The most recently released models of these units are said to be compatible with ABS brake systems; this overcomes a problem with some of the first entrants onto the market where ABS systems presented real operational problems. Some early systems also required a hydraulic line be run through the firewall to the controller–leading to installation issues including leaking hydraulic fluid and serious (and dangerous) operational safety issues.

We’ve never tried one of these, so we can’t speak much about them. They are certainly more expensive, ranging from the mid-$300 range clear up to over $1,000.

As you cogitate the differences between the types, be aware that different levels of the different types of controller will offer things like digital visual displays (some allowing choices of what language). Like anything else, the more options you want, the more you can expect to pay.

#nrv

New RVer asks: Should I use holding tank treatments?

By Russ and Tiña De Maris

“I stink, therefore I am,” says my philosopher. He lives under my RV, and travels everywhere with me. He is a rather nondescript fellow, about six feet tall, four feet wide, and a thin six inches thick. He seems to prefer a dark suit, in fact, every time I lay eyes on him, he’s laying about, clad in the black skin of plastic suited to folks of his kind. Although he is never invited inside, from time to time he does–in an awful way–make his presence known. He is a windy fellow, and many of my associates simply state, “He’s full of it.” And so he is, for my friend the dark philosopher is a black water holding tank.

As much as I try and force him to keep his ideas to himself, he does on occasion air his opinions. Usually my better half, she with the more sensitive of noses, is the first to complain. “You’ve got to do something about this!” she’ll yelp, making a rapid exodus from our little room of rest. It is perhaps the torture stake of the male species, this job of being resident problem solver.

DescartesTo keep my dark friend happy, I feed him a gruel of enzymes and bacteria, guaranteed to be “earth friendly,” and to relieve my friend of unwanted odors. To be sure, when it doesn’t work, I’m not sure who makes a bigger stink–my tank, or my wife.

Such is the sad proposition for all who RV. We must play the roles of many professions, and “sewage treatment plant operator,” is probably not our favorite. Let the “job” go, and trouble is sure to follow. Smelly holding tanks will not go away on their own. Hence, the huge line up of holding tank “treatments” for sale at any RV supply house or Walmart you can mention. What works? What doesn’t?

Want to stir up a controversy around a friendly RV campfire? Just put to RVers together and ask them what holding tank treatment to use. So here we go, adding more fuel to the fire. But the fuel we add is not only from our own years in the lifestyle, but from research by generally recognized sources.

cat fightThree areas of dealing with black water should concern RVers: Keeping odor at bay; ensuring solids don’t cause a ‘hang up’ in the tank; being good stewards of the earth with whatever we “output.” What choices we make in terms of treatment (or lack thereof) will affect all three of those areas.

Odor from black water comes from the naturally stinky nature of what we put down the pot. Some holding tank treatments deal with that by masking the odor with perfumes or other deoderants. Others deal with the smell by reasoning this way: Since the breakdown of the waste is what’s causing the smell, stop the breakdown and you’ll stop the smell. These “biocides” do just that: They kill all bacterial action in the holding tank, the wastes stop breaking down, and the odor, to some degree stops. How well these work in really killing the odor is rather subjective, and can certainly be affected by outdoor temperatures.

So what’s the drawback with a biocidal treatment? They may have a limited affect on the odor level, they allow a continuing buildup of solids in your holding tank that may, over time, cause a clog. And from the third concern, some biocidal treatments can harm sewage treatment plants (where your tank contents eventually wind up) and even the environment. To that end, “treatments” containing formaldehyde are almost universally banned by RV parks.

What treatments use biocides? A close read of the label (and sometimes by looking up a Materials Data Safety Sheet on the Internet) may show you. These are common biocides that have been used by the industry:

Bronopol: a bacterial pesticide.

Dowacil: another bacterial pesticide, one which the EPA says should not be discharged into to sewer systems “without previously notifying the local sewage treatment plant authority.”

Glutaraldehyde: Also known as embalming fluid. This material retards bacterial action.

Paraformaldehyde: A kin folk of formaldehyde and one that’s extremely toxic to humans.

Para-dichlorobenzene: The stuff you’ll smell in urinal cakes and moth balls. It’s a known carcinogen and drinking water contaminant.

Where does this leave the RVer who wants a smooth running holding tank that won’t run him out of his rolling home with a bad smell? Some RVers tell us they don’t use any sort of holding tank treatment at all. Almost universally among these we find that most thoroughly flush their black water holding tank every time they dump it, and few venture into hot climates.

Other RVers say they make their own treatments using everything from water softeners and soap to folks who pour huge quantities of bleach down the stool. We’re obviously in no position to evaluate these “moonshine” treatments. We can say that those who pour caustic chemicals like bleach down into their holding tanks are running a good gamble on how long they can treat their wastewater this way before they wipe out their holding tank seals, and possibly the metal rods that control the dump valves.

Others say they find that bacterial, enzyme, or a combination of both, in holding tank treatments work for them. In our experience, we’ve found bacterial-enzyme treatments to be quite effective in keeping the odor down, and in keeping the tank free of build up. For years we spent months on the desert, never moving the RV (hence not rinsing the tank for months at a time), and had few problems.

We did have one foul smelling experience when the combination of heat and non-motion did “shut down” the bacterial action in our tank. That was bad! To get out of that problem we had to empty the tank and fill it completely with water and a large dose of baking soda. After 24 hours we emptied the tank, then started using it again with a fresh dose of bacterial-enzyme treatment. The odor was gone, and we were happily back in business.

Bacterial and enzyme based tank treatments will not harm any sewage treatment system, be it a big municipal system or a campground septic tank system. However, if you have used biocide treatments before, you’ll need to thoroughly rinse the holding tank before adding the new treatment. The same is true if you use bleach in your tank–it will kill the “good guy” bacteria.

Regardless of the treatment choice you make, stick with good holding tank care: Keep your black water tank valve closed and dump only when the tank is at least 3/4 full. Use plenty of flush water. Don’t put undigested wastes down the toilet. We say that because we know of some who think it’s fine to empty out those “little dabs” of food leftovers into the toilet. Nyet! Rinsing your tanks between use is not a bad idea, but certainly not a necessity.

What about treating your gray water tank? Few RVers ever do much of anything about treating their gray tank. We recommend you abstain from pouring grease down the drain, but for the most part, a gray tank will give you few problems.

#nrv;##RVDT1342

New RVer asks: What happened to my fuel economy?

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By Russ and Tiña De Maris

A gent new to RVing was in a bit of a quandary: Looking for good economy he bought himself “hybrid” travel trailer; the rig provides a hard sided RV with “pop out” beds to increase living space while still keeping the “towed size” down. At 4,000 pounds he felt his new, lightweight rig would tow with good economy.

fuel pump banditHitching up to his old reliable SUV, which when traveling “solo” gave him over 16 miles per gallon, he was shocked to find his towing mileage jumped off a cliff to about 10 miles per gallon. Was he doing something wrong? Were his trailer brakes sticking? Just what is a reasonable expectation for fuel economy when towing a trailer?

When fuel prices are high it’s a question on many RVers minds. The answer may not be the one you want to hear, but there is some hope.

First off, plenty of seasoned RVers will say, “What’s the beef? Seeing double-digit fuel economy is about as likely as sighting a Sasquatch!” If you’re towing with a gasoline engine tow vehicle, you can expect a less-than-ten figure as the order of the day. “It’s the price of doing business,” is a common thought. “Just don’t look at the fuel pump when you’re RVing,” say many. “If you worry about how much it’s costing you, you won’t enjoy the lifestyle,” say others.

True, towing (and motorhoming) is not a proposition to be taken lightly. Still, you can do some things to improve your economy. Diesel owners will tell you they have much better fuel economy than an equivalent gas engine rig, and from our own experience, it’s true. Our 7.3 liter diesel pulling a 24 foot, 5,000 pound trailer generally “sees” around 12 or better miles to the gallon. Granted, we pay more for diesel than gas. Still, using today’s gas versus diesel prices we figure we’re ahead with our 38% better than the average gasser fuel economy, even taking into account we’re paying 15% more for diesel than gas.

Regardless of your fuel of choice, there are things to be done that can help. First, the consensus among RVers is that weight, per se, is not the enemy. Aerodynamic drag is the killer of fuel economy. The more “face to the wind” you have, meaning the larger the front of your trailer, the more fuel you’ll burn. Mind you, much of your trailer front will be “hidden” behind your tow vehicle. But if you crave a “tall” rig, one that sticks up above your tow vehicle, you’ll pay for it at the pump.

Some of the greatest drag reduction is found under your foot. Yes, it pays to have both feet in the truck when you pull away from the curb, but getting off the gas pedal will work wonders. Here’s a little law of physics to go by: Double the drag, quadruple the force required. Translated: Go twice as fast, the amount of energy required to move your trailer goes up four times. Slow it down! If you hate paying dollars at the pump and drive at 65, try driving at 55 for your next tank or two and compare the changes in fuel economy.

Keeping the drag forces down not only means keeping wind away from your front end, it also means keeping wind in your tires. A single tire underinflated by 10% costs you 3.3% in fuel economy. For the sake of argument let’s say all your tires are inflated 10% less than they should be. Four tires on the tow rig, four tires on the trailer, eight tires at 3% fuel economy loss each–24% loss of what might have been. If you’re getting 10 miles to the gallon with low tires, wouldn’t you rather go over 12 miles to the gallon by bending over and pumping those tires up?

#nrv; #rvt741

Norcold refrigerator gets warm. What’s the problem?

Chris Dougherty is a certified RV technician. Here is a question he received from one of our readers.

Dear Chris,
We have a 4-door model Norcold refrigerator. It takes a long time for it to get cold and in warm/hot weather, I have to keep it set at ’9′ for it to stay at or near 40 degrees (using a refrigerator thermometer). Meanwhile, the freezer section gets overly cold. Also, the drip pan at the back of the top shelf of the refrigerator collects an excessive amount of water and icicles form on the mechanism above the drip tray. I do reset to a lower numerical setting when the refrigerator’s interior temp has reached 40 degrees. There was a recall on the Norcold Refigerator kit, and that was replaced about nine months ago. Is there something we don’t know or are not doing right? —Betty

Dear Betty,
I would almost guarantee that the problem you’re experiencing is with the door seals, not the cooling system. The symptoms point to the interior of the fresh food section getting really warm, but the freezer is getting ‘overly cold.’

The excessive water and icicles in the rear point to excessive moisture or humidity in the compartment. The fins are trying to cool, but really warm air is being circulated over them. I don’t know how old your refrigerator is, but Norcold does make replacement seals for that unit, and you’re not the first person I’ve heard from who has had the same complaint.

I would check the seals first visually to look for any obvious damage or failure. I would also check the door hinges to see if their bent and check the fitment of the doors. There have been issues with the hinges bending with heavily loaded doors with oak panels on them, so its conceivable that they might bend for another reason.

Check also for gaps around the doors. Some folks suggest using a piece of paper closed in the door and trying to move it around to see if the seals can hold it. A bright battery powered light at night placed inside might ‘illuminate’ a gap. I would see if the door is ‘positional.’ In other words, does it close properly sometimes and not at others.

RV recipes and a free downloadable cookbook, too

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By Bob Difley

Cooking, eating, and sharing great meals is one of life’s most enjoyable pleasures. The number of cookbooks available in bookstores and on the Internet is a testament to we humans’ search for new and different gastronomical enjoyment.

Shiprock Shepherd's Pie
Shiprock Shepherd’s Pie

But some (most?) RVers find it a challenge to reproduce their specialties or their family’s favorite recipes in the confines of an RV Kitchen.

Cathy Lea, the editor of GoodRVFood, hopes to change that challenge into a joyful experience as she demonstrates from the confines of her Roadtrek Class B motorhome. You will find on her extensive website recipes for everything from Griddle Johnny Cakes to Green Chili Chowder as well as sections like Hints & Tips, Beverages, Preparation, and Shopping.

But what makes Cathy’s website so unique is revealed in her mission statement: “Our goal is simple: to help people cook good tasting food in their recreational vehicle by collecting proven recipes and sharing them with others, making everyone better cooks in the process.”

Notice the word “collecting” in that statement. That is just what Cathy does. Besides being a versatile and competent cook herself, she has taken the website into an evolving collection of recipes from RVers all over the country. All the recipes that RVers send to her, including all of her own, are included and are free to everyone — and she invites RVers to keep sending in recipes in a continuous update.

Cathy has also gathered this extensive collection into a free e-book for those times when you may not be connected to the Internet. The GoodRVFood Cookbook has it all in a linked PDF, and readers are encouraged to share this free cookbook with their friends and campground neighbors.

You can learn more about cooking good food in your RV at the GoodRVFood website. And upload one of your favorite recipes to her while you’re there. Bon appetit.

You can find Bob Difley’s RVing e-books on Amazon Kindle.