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Buying RV insurance: Sort out the terms, part 1

Owning an RV can be a big financial investment. Keeping it financially secure only makes sense. But when it comes to buying insurance, it can be a bit tricky–the terms can be so daunting. Just what are you shopping for, and what does it cover? In this and our next installment, we’ll walk through some of the seemingly mysterious terms that come with RV insurance.

insurance policyFirst, a word of advice: RVs are a special breed–not just any old insurance company will adequately cover an RV. It would be rare if the same company that covers your car or truck will be able to provide good coverage for your RV. Searching the Internet for “RV insurance” will help you track down specialty companies. Now, on to those terms.

Agreed Value

You think your RV is worth X amount of dollars. Get in an accident and total it out, you may find the settlement check is a lot smaller than what you thought. Agreed value coverage means you and the insurance company agree, up front, on what your RV is worth when you buy the insurance. You’ll need to hire an appraiser to have an agreed value.

Attached Accessories

Just because your RV awning is a “part” of your RV doesn’t mean your insurance company will cover damages. Here’s an example: We encountered a terrific rain storm on one RV trip, and despite having “set” the awning to run off rain, the torrent was so strong it filled the awning fabric so full the arms bent, and the whole awning was totaled. Happily, our insurance company covered it as part of our standard policy.

Not every company is so generous. Read the fine details, and you may need to opt in for the “attached accessories” coverage that handles not only awnings, but TV antennas, satellite dishes–maybe even roof mounted solar panels. Ask plenty of questions.

Diminishing Deductibles

If you’re a good and safe driver, selecting the diminishing deductibles means that every year you go without a claim the deductible that you have chosen for comprehensive and collision decreases every year until they reach zero. It could save you a lot of scratch.

Emergency Expense Coverage

Getting into a wreck with your rig is traumatic enough. Now imagine watching as your motorhome is towed away to the scrap yard and you’re stuck in the middle of nowhere. Emergency expense coverage should pay for motels, meals, and alternative transportation to get you home, or back into your rig if it’s fixable. Some RV towing insurance polices already include this as a benefit. Don’t pay twice for the same coverage.

Full-Timer Liability Coverage

Given up on the “sticks and bricks” home and moved into your RV full time? Congratulations! You no longer have liability insurance. Sure, you’ll have liability insurance on your vehicle insurance, but what is something bad happens to someone while visiting your RV or camp site? In this litigious society, covering your tail with liability insurance is a must. It does more than “vacation liability coverage,” which we’ll describe later.

Full-Timers RV Insurance

This is a term some companies use, and it can be a bit murky. One outfit describes it this way: “In addition to full-timers liability, there is other coverage that protects those that are spending more than six months a year living in their RV. Coverage for things such as stored personal contents, and additional living expenses coverage is available with full-timers RV insurance coverage.” You’ll need to read and question the fine print where this is offered.

Guaranteed Loss Replacement

This is NOT the same as “agreed value coverage. As your RV ages and loses market value, the payoff if the rig is totaled goes down accordingly. Guaranteed loss replacement means you have a total loss, typically within the first five years, you get a new RV of like kind and quality. Generally speaking, if the RV is older than five years and is totaled, then the purchase price of the unit will be paid.

Next time, we’ll round out the list with other policy talk.

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Buying RV insurance: Sort out the terms, part 2

motorhome crashBuying RV insurance can be like a trip into unknown country. It’s best if you have a map. In part 1, “Buying RV insurance: Sort out the terms,” we sorted out about half the “options” you might purchase with a policy. This time we’ll talk about the rest of them.

Mexico Liability Coverage

Motor vehicles driven into Mexico MUST have liability insurance issued by a recognized Mexican insurance company. Plenty of gringos think they can just swoop on into Mexico and “go bare.” Don’t risk it! If you’re in an accident–and even if it’s not your fault–you can watch your rig get towed away and impounded until things are sorted out–and that can take a long time. Liability insurance issued by US firms is of no value. If a US firm offers you liability insurance that covers you in Mexico, IT MUST REALLY be issued by a Mexican insurance firm. Incidentally, you can purchase this coverage for short (or long) visits in many US border cities.

Mexico Physical Damage Coverage

Some firms may offer a Mexico physical damage insurance coverage option. Provided that you purchase and maintain a Mexican liability policy (to cover you if you are responsible for an accident) then your rig receives coverage for collision and comprehensive losses if they happen in Mexico. Here’s where a bit of scruntiny comes in: Find out if your rig is damaged in Mexico if it must be repaired in Mexico. While there are good repair shops there, you may prefer to come home for the repairs. With parts and labor costs lower in Mexico, even if you can have the repairs done in the US, you may not get a compensation check that even comes close to what you’ll have to pay for the work done stateside.

Purchase Price Protection

Similar to “agreed value coverage,” purchase price protection applies not to pre-owned, but rather, new RVs. You won’t have to pay for an appraisal, just hand over a copy of your purchase invoice. the coverage guarantees reimbursement of the entire purchase price of the RV or in the event of a total loss.

RV Personal Property Insurance Coverage

If you have a sticks and bricks home and have “homeowner’s coverage,” you do have some coverage on the personal items you carry with you away from home. Here’s the catch: Most often there’s a limit on the value of what you take with you. Say for instance you have $50,000 worth of personal property protection on  your homeowner’s insurance plan. Typically there’s a fine detail in the policy that says only ten percent of that value is covered when the stuff is away from home. Take that $500 digital whizbang camera on your RV trip, a few hundred dollars worth of clothes and whatnot, and soon, your personal property isn’t covered too well. RV personal property insurance coverage covers the gap here. But be careful–there’s still an issue.  Look to the next item.

RV Personal Property Replacement Cost

So somebody breaks into your RV or a fire breaks out. You’ve lost a lot of stuff. How much you’re paid for depends on how the company values it. Typically most personal property is settled by “cash value,” meaning the price you paid less depreciation. Speaking as a consumer, it seems that things really depreciate fast when it comes time to get a pay-off for a loss. Personal property replacement cost coverage means if it’s lost, you get paid to buy it new. Again a caution: There are some things (cash and jewelry just as examples) that insurance companies won’t cover, even under personal property replacement cost coverage.

Towing and Labor

Your RV breaks down on the road, get’s a flat tire, or you run out of fuel. Emergency road service is a godsend for the RVer. But not all towing and “road service” polices are created equal. When you just had a car, you may have had AAA road service. Great! But now that you have an RV, here’s the caveat, direct from the AAA website: “Due to size of some RVs, not all AAA contract stations are capable of providing tire changing, towing, and winching service.” RVing friends of ours found this out when they got a flat tire on their fifth wheel trailer. ‘Sorry, we can change the tire on your pickup, but not your trailer,’ just doesn’t cut it when sitting beside the road on the hot desert.

Road service policies are such a detailed issue, we’ll leave them for a complete discussion in a future posting.

Vacation Liability

If you’re not a full-time RVer, then having a vacation liability insurance can help you. It covers you for situations in which you may become liable for bodily injury or property damage that occurs in your RV or campsite. Say “Junior” made a boo-boo and didn’t put away the hatchet after he whacked up some kindling in camp. If the neighbor’s kid comes over and cuts off his finger with the hatchet, having vacation liability coverage can help you sleep better.

Photo: RVWithTito on flickr.com

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New RVer asks: What do I do with my dirty laundry?

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By Russ and Tiña De Maris

It’s a problem all RVers have to deal with: Where to put the dirty laundry until wash day rolls around. If someone could come up with a ‘one size fits all solution’ they could really clean up. Meantime, here’s a laundry list of possible solutions:

Put the laundry basket in the shower stall–take it out when it’s shower time. Great, unless the cat’s litter box already occupies the space.

As an alternative, hang the dirty laundry from either a retractable clothes line, or an additional shower curtain rod, hung in the shower stall. Keeps the cat happy.

Get a hanging laundry bag. We’ve seen a couple of different inspirations on this idea. One hangs on a closet road like a coat hanger; the other hangs over the back of a door.

Motorhome or trailer owners with plenty of basement storage may find an idea here: Cut a trap door in the bottom of an existing cabinet, then place a laundry basket in the basement compartment immediately under the door. Pop open the door, drop dirty clothes in and forget about them until wash day.

One couple put a laundry bag in an under-counter cabinet, but found they were to lazy to pick up the bag to put the clothes in it. As a result, the clothes just wound up being piled on top of the bag–making a big hassle on laundry day. Solution? They put grommets on the rim of the laundry bag and hung them on cup hooks placed under the countertop, leaving the “front” of the bag gaping open, ready to accept dirty donations.

More inconvenient, but if there’s no other place: Put the laundry basket in your pickup canopy, or the trunk of your towed car.

Sources: Door hanger hamper, in-closet hanging hamper, both amazon.com.

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New RVer asks: How do I plan day’s end?

By Russ and Tiña De Maris

A family man finally has his new RV and the first big road trip is coming up. “How do you decide,” he asks, “where to stop for the night? And how do you go about doing it?” He thinks it should be a simple thing to do, but the stress is killing him.

days endOur new friend has plenty of company. Many RVers will tell you about their first trips on the road, and how what should have been a relaxing time turned into a major case of nerves when trying to figure out where to drop the hook. Here’s how many of your fellow travelers have shaken off the willies and learned to make traveling fun.

First, shake the fear that there won’t be a place to stay. If you’re planning on staying at an RV park, unless it’s a holiday weekend, or your stop will take you near a major city on a weekend, or a major destination (Disneyland, Yellowstone National Park, etc), most RV parks will have space for you without a reservation. OK, a couple of exceptions: If you must have a pull-though site, or if looking for a site on a summer weekend, might be best to call ahead.

Be sure to pace yourself. We don’t mean you’ll need to have your itinerary planned down to the microsecond: Know where you’re going in the long run, and when you need to be there. Now figure out a comfortable number of hours to drive and give yourself a rough stopping point for day’s end. In our case, unless we’re on a “dead run,” we plan on no more than 200 to 300 miles a day, at an average of 50 miles per hour. That way when we arrive, we’re not so worn out that all we can do is crash and burn.

Micromanaging your routing may work for a few; we knew one family who had every stop planned and plotted clear across the continent, long before they pulled out on the road. But for most of us, such tight planning doesn’t allow for those discoveries on the road, the “let’s stop and see if Grandma’s pie is really the best in the west,” side trips that make the RV lifestyle so fun.

Many RVers who plan on doing the “RV park” stop will pull out a campground directory a couple of hours before the end of the day. After locating one or two “likely” parks, they’ll phone ahead and confirm they can be accommodated. For those who don’t mind “Camp Walmart,” that is, dry camping in a parking lot or at a truck stop, your worries are pretty much over.

Mama has a rule for us: “Get me parked by 3:00 in the afternoon, or plan on taking me out to dinner.” It’s a fair rule; it’s a tough job navigating for this old bird, and I reckon she’s put in as hard (maybe harder) a day than I have.

R&T De Maris photo

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Look out for scammers

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By Russ and Tiña De Maris

These RVers met a “nice young fellow” in the parking lot of a Walmart in Cedar City, Utah just a day ago. On returning with a cart load of groceries, out in the far end of the parking lot a clean-looking fellow approached us to warn us of a problem with our trailer.

no scam“You must not know it, but you’ve got a real problem with your spring shackles,” he warned. Russ walked around the street side of the trailer with the man, and squatted down for a look. The young fellow was quite insistent that there was a problem that could really damage the springs. “You really ought to have that fixed,” he said.

Russ said he’d get in touch with his “repair advisor,” and the man quickly pointed out that we could get the problem repaired quickly at a nearby service station. He added that he was the shop manager there. Russ thanked him and headed back into the trailer. After the friendly informant was gone from view, he took at look at the curb side running gear just to compare the differences. Although not a professional by any means, he’d helped with a axle repair problem just a few months back, and nothing that he saw there struck him as strange.

Oddly enough, on the street side of the trailer there was an obvious and definite problem: A broken spring shackle. Not something we wanted to deal with, we checked on the Internet and soon found a local trailer repair shop.
At the shop the owner verified we had a broken shackle, told us he had the parts on hand, and soon had us backed up to the shop. Not only did he fix the problem, he also checked the suspension system and declared he could find no other problems–certainly nothing wrong on the side where our “friend” in the parking lot had so adamantly worried over. We left with repairs done, and a couple of spares for use if need be, and a bill of less than $40.

This is the first time we’ve been ‘hit in a parking lot’ by somebody looking to scam us on repair work. There are plenty of unscrupulous folks lurking at filling stations and “repair garages” waiting to soak you. The days-gone-by trick of not fully inserting your dip stick in the tube and showing a frightened driver that, “You’re two quarts low!” have moved to much higher dollar stuff, and most of us are careful about it.

So what do you do if somebody tells you that you need RV repair work–and you’re not so sure? First off, be sensitive to those internal warning bells. Why would somebody be walking around on the fringes of a parking lot, scrutinizing trailer suspensions? The guy was as smooth as a snake oil salesman, and it surely put us on alert.

If you really are worried about a possible problem with your rig, get a second opinion, a professional is best, but an experienced RVer may be in a good position to “talk you through” a question about something you’re not sure of. If you’ve a friend in the business back home, don’t hesitate to phone and ask advice, even sending a picture with your phone cam for a quick look-see.

Controlling RV trailer sway

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By Russ and Tiña De Maris

One of the most unnerving experiences that can happen for a new RVer–and even for old hands–is trailer sway. The trailer begins to fishtail back and forth and the tow vehicle responds in a similar way. If not controlled trailer sway can actually cause an accident. How can you control or eliminate trailer sway?

The first step is understanding the causes of trailer sway. Weight distribution is a primary factor: You need at least 10-percent of your trailer’s total weight “on the hitch.” With a properly designed trailer weight distribution is up to you. If you have a lot of personal stuff in your trailer, put the heavier stuff forward of the axles.

Another cause of sway is a bad matchup between tow vehicle and trailer. Exceeding a tow vehicle’s capacity will often lead to problems. Some RVers will match their trailer and tow vehicle based on the unloaded weight of the trailer, but then fill the holding tanks and stuff the trailer full of cargo and merrily head off down the road, by then exceeding the tow rig’s ability to safely pull.

Factors encountered on the road make up the balance of most sway issues. Wind gusts blasting the trailer; “bow waves” or winds pushing onto the trailer/tow combination by big trucks; steep down grades; and vehicle speed all can cause sway problems.

sway controlA sway control device added to your trailer will help reduce many of these sway problems. The most common sway control is a friction sway control that links your tow vehicle to the trailer that reduces that nasty pivoting between trailer and tow rig. These units are inexpensive–we’ve seen them for less than $50 up to a little under $200 and you may be able to do the installation yourself.

Wind gusts and blasts from trucks passing your rig are often unpredictable and can catch you off guard. If you’re hit and your trailer begins to sway RESIST the temptation to jump on the brake pedal–this will often make things worse. Gradually reduce speed by backing off on the throttle. If the sway is severe or doesn’t respond, use the manual lever on your brake controller and gradually apply trailer brake power to let the trailer to the braking and eliminate the sway.

Your own speed can create sway problems. “Keep it down to a dull roar,” should be common sense. If you find your combination swaying, ease off the throttle, get back into control. If you find a repeat of the problem as you speed up, then your speed is too fast for conditions. Be especially wary on downgrades and keep your speed down. Being on a downgrade, swaying, and trying to slow down all at the same time can be a real hair-raiser.

Photo courtesy Camco

sway control

New RVer asks: Where do I put levels on my RV?

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By Russ and Tiña De Maris

Having your RV level when parked not only makes it easier to get around in, it’s also critical for keeping your RV refrigerator alive. Most RV refrigerators can be damaged if run off-level, so keeping them happy is a first priority. Leveling your RV is a lot easier if you have levels mounted outside so you can “eyeball” them when setting up camp. But how and where do you mount outside levels?

levelsWe use “stick on” levels available at many hardware stores and most all RV supply houses. They’re inexpensive–less than $3 for two. However, we don’t rely on the double stick tape as heat and weather conditions can cause the tape to lose its sticky and the level can go “off” pretty easy. For a couple bucks more a pair you can buy “screw on” levels, but why bother? Use a small drill bit to bore screw holes at each end of the level, then using small stainless screws to hold them in place.

But not to get the cart before the horse here, you’ll also want to buy or borrow a small “bulls eye” level. Set the level on the floor of your freezer compartment, and level up your RV until the bubble is in the bulls eye.

Once the bulls eye is occupied, indicating that your RV refrigerator is “happy,” then you can attach the levels to the outside of the rig. We’ve found that having a level at each side of the RV and one mounted at the center of the front of the rig is a great help for trailer owners. You can hop out of the cab of the tow vehicle and check to see how far off you are from level in both perspectives. Putting them at the rear end can also help when blocking up the tires. Motorhome users may find it helpful to mount one someone on the dash near the steering wheel, and another on the side wall in view of the driver.

With your RV level (as described above) mount the levels oriented so that these tell-tales show “level.”

(Levels courtesy Camping World)

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Buy an RV through craigslist?

By Russ and Tiña De Maris

Shopping for a used RV can exercise your PQ — patience quotient. Many RV shoppers have a list of “just what” they’re looking for and high hopes they’ll find it in a hurry. But talk with any group of experienced RVers and you’ll find that most looked a while, and probably drove more than a few miles to find what they were looking for. Here’s a few tips on how to go about looking.

craigslistWhen asked where they found their RV, a surprisingly large number of folks say, “On craigslist! Yep, that widely known Internet classified service has lead to many a happy transaction for both buyers and sellers. Still, some are concerned about being scammed. Should you decide to go RV shopping on craigslist, watch these tips:

1. Scam artists rarely post a telephone number for contacts.

2. Have a handle on prices. If the price listed for a given RV is much lower than what you’ve been seeing elsewhere, it’s a good bet you’re onto a scammer.

3. Look out for ads that use terms like, “certified seller,” or “buyer protection.” There are no such things on craigslist, it’s definitely a “buyer beware” situation.

4. Look the photos over carefully. Some cheats have been known to steal photos from legitimate RV dealers, post them as their own, and try and sell a phantom RV. While there are plenty of good photographers out there, if you see other RVs in the picture (looking like the “for sale” unit is parked at an RV dealership) go carefully..

5. Never send money–not even to “hold” a rig until you have personally inspected the rig yourself.

While it sounds a bit scary, there are plenty of RVers who’ve bought their RV through a craigslist posting and come away happy–we include ourselves in that number.

Still, don’t drive down the street with your money in your hot little fist. It can be tempting to buy the first RV that “sort of” meets your needs. But our experience in shopping for a used RV is like the girl who wants to marry a prince. You may have to kiss a lot of toads along the way. Well, you won’t have to kiss them, but be sure, you may have look at a lot of junk along the way.

To weed out some of the trash without having to make a drive, we find it best to talk directly by telephone with a seller. They’ll be more than happy to tell you all that’s right with their RV, but you need to ask, “Now tell me, what’s WRONG with this rig?” Specifically ask if the roof leaks or HAS EVER leaked. A water leaked RV is one that’s best avoided–hidden damage can come back and haunt you very expensively.

If you find a rig you like the sound of and it’s a bit of a drive, ask the seller to e-mail you more pictures–lots of them. If the seller is reluctant, take that as a hint that the rig may not be all that it’s held up to be. When you do make a personal walk-through, follow all the hints we’ve given you elsewhere in this series. Before you begin to hash out price with the seller, look him in the face (making direct eye contact) and ask him, “Is there anything else about this RV that we haven’t talked about that I should know?” Keep you eye on the seller until (and while) he responds t the question. Trust your gut–if you think he’s hiding something, he probably is, and whatever it is is likely costly.

Screenshot: craigslist.com

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How’s your “leave no trace” knowledge?

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By Russ and Tiña De Maris

A columnist in an Idaho newspaper has a few gripes about bad campground behavior. Trash in fire rings, dog poop on trails, and the other usual suspects. Sometimes bad behavior is just that–a person with a nasty attitude. Other times it’s just a matter of education. How’s your campground courtesy knowledge?

leave no traceHere are some tips that can make fellow campers (and park personnel) a lot happier:

Don’t trash: It may be “biodegradable” but it can take a long time for the bio to degrade. Even paper plates can take four months to disintegrate, but a plastic drinking bottle? Try 500 years.

How about burning the trash? Not only does the stuff stink, it doesn’t always burn up. Imagine being the next guy in your site, confronted with a lot of garbage to clean up.

If there aren’t any trash cans, then use the “Pack it in, Pack it out” philosophy.

Got a tenter in your group? Encourage them to put their tent up on a designated tent pad. Putting them on native vegetation can stunt, even kill the stuff.

Walking around the campground? Please don’t walk through somebody else’s site. Cutting across a site is nothing but disconcerting–it invades a personal space.

Heading out from your site? Stick to the established trails. “Pioneers” cutting a new path, like tents in the wrong place, kill vegetation.

You’ve got an RV–use the bathroom there, or make the hike to the campground toilet. Whizzing in the woods (or worse) ain’t great in the eyes (and nose) of your next door neighbor.

The same holds true for Rover. Take a poop collecting bag and follow up on your dog. Put the bag in the trash or tote it home with you.

The ethics of “leave no trace” make for a nicer time for everyone.

Photo: U.S. Boy Scouts

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Outfitting your RV

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By Russ and Tiña De Maris

Having an RV is almost like having a second home. You have a kitchen, bathroom, bedroom, living room, etc. Unless you crave the thought of toting stuff back and forth though, you’ll need to “fit it out,” for your RVing trips. Is there a way to handle outfitting your rig without busting the bank? Most assuredly!

Start in the galley: While paper cups and plates are “easy clean up,” there are certainly times when they just don’t “make it.” We’ve found having “real” dishes in the RV is great. But what about the weight–and what about breaking stuff? You’ll find plenty of RVers who swear by Corelle brand dishes. These things look and feel a bit like china, but they’re lightweight and it takes a lot to break them. Drop ’em on the floor, they just bounce. The great thing about Corelle is that it’s been around so long you’ll find plenty of it second hand.

kitchen gadgetsWhich leads us to the point: Fitting out your RV doesn’t mean you need to buy everything “new.” Outfitting the RV galley is a snap with a visit to a thrift shop or by combing through a few garage sales. Take a look at your kitchen in the house, note what you regularly use, and make a list. You’ll soon find you’ll have just about everything you need for a fraction of the price of buying it new. With those gadgets installed in your RV galley, you’ll never have to worry about forgetting something you need for a road trip.

What about those other things you’ll need? We’ve found that when outfitting the rig with linens, it’s best to buy new, but hit the bargain linen joints. Why new? We like everything in the rig to match in color–and in a color we don’t use at home. It makes it easy when returning from an RV trip to simply toss it all in the wash, and when it comes out, sorting is a snap. In fact, we have a laundry bag for the RV, and when we’re done with the washing, we just put all the RV linens back in the laundry bag to tote back to the RV.

The family repair guy has a similar plot. We keep a few tools in the travel trailer in our “junk drawer,” including screwdrivers, a few wrenches, hammer, etc, that have a frequent call. You could put hit these with a shot of colorful spray paint to identify them as “RV resident” tools.

We also keep the rig fitted out with cleaning supplies so we don’t have to trot back and forth to the house with them. A broom hanger keeps the sweeper in the corner of the shower stall (ours is deep enough that it doesn’t get wet with the shower). A used Dirt Devil vacuum cleaner that we picked up for three bucks at a garage sale hides away in the corner of a closet. Small, powerful, just the right size for the small area of carpet we have in the bedroom.

printer shelfSince we work on the road, we even dedicated a computer printer to the travel rig. We built a plywood shelf, stained and finished it, and mounted it under the dinette table on the wheel well. The printer lives on the shelf there, out of the way, but close to where we work when using our laptops. To complete our “office” we bought a high school “locker organizer” that has multiple pockets for pens, stapler, note pads, etc. We hang the organizer on the wall by the dinette, next to a cork board where we can pin lists.

locker organizerAre you a music lover? We installed a new automotive-type stereo system to replace the old cassette/radio unit in our rig. The new one allows us to play music recorded onto USB flash cards. We simply build out own “mix” of music from our CDs at home and carry the tiny flash cards in the RV loaded up with our favorite tunes.

Household living suggestions are a favorite topic around the campfire. Next time you get a chance, ask your neighbor RVer their tricks for the rig.

All photos R & T De Maris

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Campsite “arrival” and “departure” checklists

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By Russ and Tiña De Maris
Camping with your RV can seem like a complicated process when you’re first getting started – kind of like flying a plane. Here are two checklists that can make your own RV “flight” arrivals and departures easier and safer.

RV arrival checklist

1. Before you “land” your RV in a site, do a quick eye-ball (or even better, a walk-though) checking for hazards like low limbs, broken glass, or other hazards.

2. Got a slide out room? Be sure to unlock any locks on the room itself, or the topper, if so equipped. Close any basement storage doors, and verify clearance from picnic tables, trees, neighbor’s children, etc., before deploying the slide out.

3. Using leveling jacks? Make sure you have firm ground where the levelers will hit the ground.

5. Plugging into shore power? Turn off air conditioning units first!

6. Using an awning? Make sure you have clearance, and if wind is possible, use appropriate tie-downs and “deflappers” or be sure to run the awning back into “storage” position if you leave camp, or prior to retiring. Nothing’s quite as disturbing as bailing out of bed at three in the morning to roll up the awning in a wind storm.

7. Hook up your water and waste hoses. Don’t leave the black-water valve open, unless you want to invite a clogged black water tank.

RV departures

1. If your black water tank is at least 3/4 full and you want to dump, dump the black water first, then the gray water. This way you’ll rinse your hose as you go.

2. Disconnect water lines and waste hoses.

3. Got slide-out rooms? Make sure the way inside is clear of anything that could get in the way of the retracting slide room. Make sure basement storage doors are closed.

4. Using leveling jacks? After they’re retracted, visually check to make sure they fully retracted. Using “jack boots” or pads under the levelers? Fetch them up and into storage.

5. Antenna down? Satellite dish stored?

6. Entrance steps retracted?

7. Double check locking on lockable cabinets and drawers. Secure the refrigerator doors to keep things from flying. Shower door secure?

Related:

Another wrinkle on RV departure checklists

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New RVer asks: How do I flush this thing?

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By Russ and Tiña De Maris

A new RVer lamented that his family had bought a used rig and had taken it out a couple of times. During those trips they’d used the shower and the sinks–but never the toilet. With notable embarrassment he confessed–they didn’t know how to use the thing. Are you in such a predicament? Well, fear not traveling toilet tribulations, help is on the way.

toilet mysteryThe typical RV toilet uses gravity, rather than water power, to remove those unwanted bowl contents from sight. Most RV toilets have a pedal near the floor, some have a lever mounted somewhere higher up–usually high up toward the back. In general, pushing the foot pedal down partway–or moving the lever partway–will release water into the bowl. Some RV toilets may have two pedals near the floor, one empties the bowl, the other adds water. All this, provided you have the RV hooked up to a “city water” supply or your water pump is turned on (and a supply of fresh water is in the fresh water tank). Step all the way down, or move the hand lever all the way to the opposite position–a valve in the bottom of the bowl opens and the contents vanish.

The reason most RV toilets work this way is centered on conservation. Gravity pulls the waste into the holding tank, rather than requiring a lot of water to flush it away. Unlike your home toilet, it does present a couple of new issues.

From a practical standpoint, “evacuating” the bowl when a large amount of solid matter is present usually calls for MORE water than may be present when you first enter the bathroom. Some RVers will add water to the bowl before ascending the throne. Makes things a little nicer, a little cleaner, after the flush.

Since a material valve (rather than a constantly present level of water) prevents noxious odors from migrating into the bathroom, problems can arise. RV toilet valves have seals, and sometimes the seals can dry out. Gasses from the holding tank then manifest themselves upstairs in the bathroom, particularly after traveling down the road. Before replacing the seal, here’s a trick: Try lubricating the seal with plumbers silicon grease. Turn off the water supply to the RV, don rubber gloves, have an assistant open the toilet valve completely, and apply a light layer of the grease around the seal at the bottom of the bowl. It may stop the stink, and do wonders at easing marital strife.

Never let your “black water” holding tank go empty. Once you’ve emptied the toilet’s holding tank (and never empty it unless it is three-quarters or more full to prevent clogging), always add a couple of gallons of water. It’s simple, step on the pedal (or slide the valve) and just run water a bit. Keeping water in the holding tank will help solids that might remain in it from getting really solid and forming an effective barrier against emptying tank contents.

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