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Washer ‘n dryer in that RV?

by Russ and Tiña De Maris

Contemplating the purchase of a new rig? How important is it to have a washer/dryer in the rig? Wow, there’s a loaded question if ever there was one. If you opened this one to reader commentary, the answers would likely make your head spin. Consider us agitators, but we tend to buck the tide and we say, send that washer down the drain! Of course, our leanings in this matter are all in favor of no machines because we’re so addicted to boondocking.

In the boondocking world, resources like water and electricity are precious, and getting rid of drain water is a big deal. Every load of clothes run through an in-RV washer means not only fresh water used, but gray water produced. Since we have to lug both fresh and gray, that’s a lot of extra work. Notwithstanding, the average in-RV washer/dryer unit isn’t all that large in terms of capacity, and you can spend a lot of time fussing around doing multiple loads.

Consider too, the extra weight you’re lugging around. If you pull your rig about, the weight of the machines can leave you hung out to dry when you get to the gas station.

Now that we’ve drawn the battle lines, there are plenty of RVers, even some boondockers, who would call us out on this one. They feel the convenience of having your own clothes cleaning apparatus far outweighs those disadvantages we’ve outlined. Without having their Maytags they’re afraid they may take a tumble in terms of time at the Laundromat. Others hold the resale value of your RV will be higher with these units, rather than a vacant hole (even if you fill it with shelves or other storage).

Taking all things into consideration, though, it may just be a wash.

Dealing with RV kitchen fires

By Jim Twamley

When I was a kid I was frying something in oil and the pan caught fire. I didn’t know what to do. My mom got a hot pad, grabbed the pan, and put it in the sink under running water. This caused the flames to erupt into a fireball and ignite the curtains. My dad came over with a towel and beat out the flames.

Throwing water on an oil fire causes a fireball because the water sinks to the bottom of the pan, becomes instantly superheated and erupts, spewing the flaming oil out of the pan.

One way to deal with this kind of fire is to follow these three steps:

1. Turn off the burner (but don’t move the pan).
2. Moisten a hand towel with water and ring it out so it is damp.
3. Smother the fire by covering it with the damp hand towel and let it sit until cool.

In order for fire to exist the three sides of the fire triangle must be present: fuel, heat and oxygen. The above procedure extinguishes the fire by robbing it of oxygen.

You should also keep your fire extinguisher charged and handy. My son, who graduated from Fire Academy, reminded me that another good way to extinguish a pan fire is to place a lid over it. Fire produces toxic fumes that rob a room of oxygen and can quickly asphyxiate a person. So, if you can’t immediately control the fire get everyone out of your RV (including yourself), call the fire department and warn your RV neighbors to evacuate their rigs. Once an RV starts burning, it goes fast!

photo: state farm on flickr.com

TireTraker monitors tire pressure and temperature wirelessly

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Your RV’s tires are near the top of the list of safety features that you don’t want to take any chances with, like hoping that they maintain the proper pressure, are not going flat from a road puncture, or are weakening from age or road temperatures.

Low pressure is the leading cause of premature tire failure. The TireTraker™ TT-500C can provide early notice of potential problems and assist in maintaining proper pressurization in vehicle tires.

The TireTraker™ system is a full-time wireless electronic tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS) designed to monitor and display tire pressures from 0 psi up to 232 psi, and also to monitor tire temperatures from 14°F to 185°F. The system is capable of displaying current tire pressure and temperature.  It’s the only TPMS system on the market with a lifetime warranty.

In addition to your RV, your trailer and tow vehicles can also be monitored, as the system is capable of monitoring up to 22 tires. The base system includes everything you need to monitor up to 4 tires. If you require more, simply check additional sensors in the ‘Accessories’ tab, and then adjusting the quantity when you Check Out (remember that the system ships with 4 sensors, so if you have 10 wheels, you would need to order 6 additional sensors which is 3 packs of 2).

The TireTraker™ TT-500C consists of two basic components: Tire Sensors/Transmitters, which screw onto the valve stems of tires, and a Monitor/Receiver. Sensors transmit a coded RF signal and alert if pressure drops, pressure increases or temperature increases. The Monitor displays each tire’s pressure and temperature per tire position and will display an audible and visual alert if tire pressure or temperature changes.

Learn more about the TireTraker at its website. As of April, 2016, the four wheel version was selling for $289.

Hygienic care of your RV sewer attachments

By George Bliss

Hygiene: “Conditions or practices conducive to maintaining health and preventing disease, especially through cleanliness.”

RVers have to travel long distances and often are a distance away from the supply store. If you’re like me, you carry everything you need and more.

As far as emptying your grey and black water tanks, you often need various attachments depending on the dump station or RV park. I like to keep these items together in a small, close-able, Rubbermaid or other plastic style container. It’s a good idea because it allows me to keep my attachments in an isolated state. That way, there’s far less likelihood of contaminating any surrounding items — stuff like fresh water hoses, drinking water fittings, or anything else you wouldn’t want to have come into contact with black water contaminants.

You could put these pieces into other kinds of storage containers, bags for instance. But putting them into plastic containers has another advantage. It also allows me to add some bleach and water to the container to sterilize the contents every few weeks, depending on use.

To be safe, always wear disposable gloves and safety glasses.

Is your RV awning boring? Personalize it!

By Nancy Gardner
RVtravel.com

Carl Mello, the creative mind and owner behind FunInTheShade, Custom RV Awnings, likes to tell the story of how he came up with the idea for his burgeoning company about two years ago on his first camping trip.

“The whole concept was this crazy idea I wanted for myself — I saw that all the motorhomes had either stripes or boring, fading colors on them. So I decided that I wanted something more exciting and creative for myself. I tell people you have to personalize your home away from home.”

All this personalization amounts to about 200 designs available at FunInTheShade.com or at 877-341-6793. They include 67 colleges, patriotic, scenic or camouflage awnings, or Mello will print your company logo on your rig. The made-to-order RV awning replacement fabric is constructed of durable, 13-ounce vinyl with a customer’s image of choice printed directly onto the fabric.

RVtravel.com spoke with the 46-year-old on a recent afternoon. Mello said business was particularly brisk, and credits his unique product and increasing selection to the surge in popularity. The Baton Rouge, La., native says he sells between 30-40 awnings a month to all corners of the United States and Canada, and, at least for now, he’s a one man show.

“I literally speak to every customer,” says Mello. “There’s no shopping cart on my website, and that’s to make sure that customers measure everything correctly.” There’s no automated telephone answering system either. “If they push one for parts they get me, two for service they get me, or three for customer service they get me. It’s to ensure they’ll get quality service every time.”

Custom awning prices range from $279 to $479 depending on size and design and include free shipping.

Don’t gamble with your restraurant budget: Try a casino buffet

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By Bob Difley

If you’re not a gambler and you’ve never been to Las Vegas, Biloxi or Atlantic City, you may not realize the full-scale delights of a casino buffet.

The hotels and casinos figure that you wouldn’t be there if you didn’t engage in gaming, and they want you to choose their casino to spend your gaming dollars — but there’s no rule that says you have to gamble.

The casinos figure that if they offer the best deals on where to eat, you’ll probably hang around to drop a few coins in their slots, or digest that huge meal you just ate by sitting at the black jack table. And they’re right — that’s just what people do. Therefore, the casinos keep coming up with fantastic, low-cost buffets to draw you in. The food quality and variety just keep getting better, some including low-fat choices and lots of fresh fruit and vegetables.

The cost of these buffets is laughably low — stomach-filling breakfasts for $3.99, all-you-can-eat dinner buffets for under ten dollars. It would be hard to eat at home (at least the same volume) for these prices. And it is especially good for expense cutting if you don’t then move on into the gaming rooms.

When you’re passing through one of these cities or any others where gambling is legal — including most of Nevada — this is a good way to eat cheap. If you are immune to the draw of overeating and gambling, or limit the amount you gamble to an exact amount that you free up out of your entertainment budget, you can also enjoy a free lounge show or just wander around people-watching.

You can find Bob Difley’s RVing e-books on Amazon Kindle.

photo: larryjh1234 on flickr.com

Sadder but wiser: The case of the falling fifth wheel

It almost happened to me. Maybe it has happened to you. No doubt you’ve heard of it happening to someone else. My dad was a professional truck driver but it happened to him three times in two years. I think that’s a record! I came that close to dropping our fifth wheel trailer on the truck bed rails.

No, I didn’t forget to lower the landing gear. Since my dad’s experiences, I have been especially careful to make sure the landing gear was down before I released the hitch. So if the landing gear was down, what happened? Like a lot of fifth wheelers, I place blocks under my landing gear. This procedure reduces the length the landing gear has to be extended, which seems to help stabilize the trailer. But the practice, and some carelessness, almost did me in.

The last time we parked I went into my unhitching routine. After getting the fifth wheel positioned, I placed the blocks and lowered the landing gear. Then I released the hitch, jumped in the truck and proceeded to drive the truck ahead. But I pulled the trailer too. I hadn’t raised the trailer high enough and there was still too much weight on the hitch. The block under one leg slid along but the other leg was hanging in midair about eight inches off the ground! I was just lucky the trailer didn’t slide off the hitch right then. Even now I cringe when I think of the damage that could have resulted.

I could argue that I had been somewhat distracted by our daughter-in-law’s greeting when we arrived. We’ve all had the experience of stopping to talk with someone while in the process of hitching or unhitching and then forgetting to do some part of the process. Have you noticed that the RVer with all the “helpers” is usually the one who gets into trouble? Because it’s easy to get distracted during hitching and unhitching, I wait to greet or say goodbye to a fellow RVer until after I know he’s completed his chores.

However, more important than the distraction was that I had allowed myself to become complacent. Hitching and unhitching had become a routine. Now, I believe in having a routine, a set procedure to follow each time, and I’m good about following it. But I allowed the routine to become a no-brainer — and that’s what really got me into trouble. It’s easy to become complacent when you are an “old-timer” at RVing. After you’ve hitched and unhitched a few hundred times you get pretty good at it. Breaking camp used to take an hour or more — now I can do it in 15 minutes, or 20, tops. It’s clear now that at least part of the extra time it used to take me allowed me to stop and think once in awhile.

Then there is the issue of the blocks. If the fifth wheel hadn’t been perched on blocks, the potential for damage would have been minimal. I went for years without using blocks for fear the trailer would somehow fall off them. I’ve seen some precarious setups that still make me wonder if the slightest movement would topple the blocks, allowing the fifth wheel to fall a foot or more. Because we use a king pin stabilizer jack and it is capable of holding up our fifth wheel by itself, I decided the risk of the trailer falling off the blocks was minimal. The thing is — I never considered the possibility of the trailer falling while I was unhitching, before the jack was in place.

What I should have done, and will do from now on, is set my wheel chocks before I unhitch. Yes, I do use them. But on a level site, which this was, I use them to stabilize the trailer rather than out of any concern for the trailer rolling down a slope. In this situation I didn’t set them until later. Now I know better.

So, I’ve learned a good lesson. I’ve changed my routine and I’m going to slow down a little and be a lot more careful. Thankfully, the lesson didn’t cost me more than a little embarrassment. Hopefully, you have learned a lesson from my close call, too.

photo: Prerana Jangam on pdpix.com

Looking for RV parts? Difficult if you’re “locked out” by manufacturer

By Steve Savage, Mobility RV Service

One of the things that you as an RV owner may not realize is some manufacturers sell parts only to their own dealers. For example, if you need a part for a Keystone product, you’ll find their parts are only obtainable through a Keystone dealer. In principle, I understand why they want to favor their dealers and why the dealers want to lock out competitors. Automobile manufacturers do the same thing.

Here’s where it gets tricky. If I were working on your Ford, all I need to do is go to the local Ford dealership —and there are at least four within an hour’s drive. With RVs that’s not the case. For many RV brands, the nearest dealer might be a 100 miles away. That means I have to get the part shipped to the dealer, then the dealer has to ship it to me. That’s a lot of downtime for the RV owner. I’ve had more than one owner say if they’d known this was the case, they would never have purchased their given brand of RV.

Realizing many dealers have a tremendous investment in their bricks-and-mortar locations, I would not propose any manufacturer treat me like a dealer. Some of them have hundreds of thousands (or millions) of dollars worth of inventory on their lots, and I respect that. But I wonder if a more moderate solution would work that might offer owners faster turnaround time.

Perhaps the manufacturer could maintain a listing of approved technicians and sell me, for instance, parts for the retail price the customer might pay at a dealership. The manufacturer would keep the wholesale cost and credit the dealership nearest to me with the profit margin. That way, the manufacturer and dealership would turn a profit, and I can make my profit on the labor.

I realize dealerships are bending over backwards to try to lock in customers with lifetime warranties, and to lock out competitors, but it just isn’t going to work. When someone buys an RV, in my estimation they do not want a good warranty — they want a good product and the ability to obtain prompt service, no matter where they are.

No matter how hard they try, RV dealerships will never be like automobile dealerships simply because RVs are not like automobiles. No one needs an RV. They are a toy that most folks buy for fun. Making it hard for people to get service wherever/whenever is going to do nothing more than make folks angry — or angrier — at dealerships than they already are.

photo: Guyon Morée flickr.com

Freezing foods for easy fixin’ — Part 1

By Ralph Graner

When on the road RVing, or camping in national parks like Yellowstone or Grand Tetons, you don’t always have the time or desire after hiking all day to start cooking meats and dinner from scratch.

We solve these problems days before departure by precooking “basic” meats and freezing them in “one-meal” ziplock freezer bags.

We eat a lot of chicken in many forms, so when it comes to dinnertime, all we have to do is pull out a bag and easily mix it with fresh ingredients for fajitas, cacciatore, Chinese veggies and fried rice, wraps, and a gazillion other meals. Chopped beef is another set of bags for us. If you make a favorite spaghetti sauce, do a pretrip prep and “bag it.” We don’t put our special meatballs in the sauce (yuck … mushy), just “bag ’em.”

We always use bags as opposed to containers because the bags take less space. Be sure that when you put the bags in your freezer at home for the first time, you shape them as flat as possible. Be sure to prefreeze in your home freezer first, then take them to your RV.

Of course, we have a variety of other meals on vacation, but on those days when we want “quick and easy,” we have enough space in our trailer’s freezer for several weeks of “one-meal bags.”

Editor: See Part 2 to cover safety tips for freezing foods from health and nutrition specialists.

photo: skey on flickr.com.

Kill flies with electric zapper. Fun, too!

The Electric Fly Swatter will easily kill all flying insects including mosquitoes, flies and gnats just by waving at them with the swatter, and it is small enough to take with you — wherever you go. The output power is relatively low and is no real hazard to humans or pets.

The Electric Fly Swatter has no smell, and contains no poisonous or harmful materials. However, the net will become hot when activated, so keep away from your skin and from children.

It’s safe for indoor or outdoor use. The product is billed as the most effective, convenient, and hygienic insect terminator, as it leaves no smudge, smear or mess to clean up.

Flying insects — we have been annoyed since day one by these nasty pests, running around trying to find a means to squash them. Now this patented Electric Fly Swatter kills/electrocutes all flying insects such as mosquitoes, flies, gnats on contact, “just by waving the bug swatter at them.” Any insect, really!

It looks like a small tennis racket. A must for the home and garden! You can take the Electric Fly Swatter anywhere you go such as camping, the BBQ, beach, and your fishing trip. No more chasing down flying insects, just zap them with the Electric Fly Swatter with a simple wave!

Another great thing about the product is that if there’s a group of you, you won’t have to swat flies or insects yourself: everyone else will want to do it!

 You can find this bug zapper and many similar ones at Amazon.com.

Freezing foods for easy fixin’ – Part 2

Editor’s note: Adding to Ralph Graner’s ideas for freezing foods for easy fixin’, here’s a little extra freezin’ foods wisdom from Alice Henneman, MS, RD, Extension Educator and Dietitian with the University of Nebraska-Lincoln Extension in Lancaster County, and Joyce Jensen, Registered Environmental Health Specialist with the Lincoln-Lancaster County Health Department.

STEP 1. Cool foods “slightly” at room temperature before refrigeration. It is not necessary for a food to be completely cool before it is refrigerated. To help food cool slightly before refrigeration:

•  Place a shallow container of food on a cooling rack to allow air to circulate all around the pan for about 20 to 30 minutes.
•  Limit depth of food to 2 inches.

STEP 2. Complete cooling of foods in the refrigerator. Cool foods to refrigerator temperature before bagging them for your freezer. It is OK to refrigerate foods while they’re still warm. LOOSELY cover food upon refrigeration. This allows heat to escape and protects the food from accidental contamination from other foods during cooling.

STEP 3. Pack foods into freezer bags. Use “freezer” bags, not “storage” bags, for storing food in the freezer. Freezer bags are thicker than storage bags and will keep the food fresh longer. Speed freezing and hasten thawing by freezing foods in a thin, flattened shape in freezer bags. A rounded shape takes longer to thaw through to the middle. Flatter packages also will stack better in your freezer. To avoid getting food on the outside or stuck in the closure of the freezer bags, use a wide-mouth funnel (available in the kitchenware section of many stores).

Place the freezer bag in a container such as a quart measuring cup. Standing the bag upright also helps if you are filling the bag with a more liquid-type food. You may wish to double-bag liquids as an added precaution against leakage. Open the top of bag and enclose the edges around the bottom of the wide-mouthed funnel. Add food, in desired amount, through the funnel. Hold edges of the bag in place as needed. OR use some type of scoop — such as a measuring cup with a handle — to transfer the food to the freezer bag.

STEP 4. Label foods. To avoid mystery meats and other foods of unknown age and possibly origin, label foods using freezer tape, gummed freezer labels or permanent marking pens/crayons. Include:

•  name of food;
•  packaging date;
•  number of servings or amount;
•  additional helpful information, such as form of food (sliced, chopped, etc.), any special ingredients.

It is helpful to place filled freezer bags on a flat surface in your freezer, such as a metal pan. Do not stack freezer bags until frozen so they will freeze faster. After they are frozen solid, the bags may be removed from the pan and stored, stacked, directly on the freezer shelf. Or turn them on their edge and store them vertically. This is an especially good idea when freezing liquid foods, such as soups and stews.

STEP 5. Thaw and cook frozen foods. DO NOT thaw perishable foods at room temperature. If perishable foods are left at room temperature too long, bacteria may grow and produce heat-resistant toxins that can cause foodborne illness. Cooking may not be able to destroy these toxins.

It’s best to plan ahead for slow, safe thawing in the refrigerator. Small items may thaw overnight in the refrigerator. Up to five pounds of food should thaw in about 24 hours. If there is the possibility a thawing package might leak, you may want to thaw it on a plate or a pan.

If food is thawed in the microwave, finish reheating it right away. Unlike food thawed in a refrigerator, microwave-thawed foods reach temperatures that encourage bacterial growth. Cook immediately to kill any bacteria that may have developed and to prevent further bacterial growth.

Food may be transferred from a freezer bag to a microwave safe container for thawing in the microwave. If the freezer bag manufacturer says it is OK to thaw foods directly in their freezer bag, follow manufacturer’s directions for such things as venting, recommended heat settings, types of foods suitable for microwave-thawing, etc., for that specific bag. Also, follow manufacturer’s directions for your microwave.

While you may be able to satisfactorily defrost food in some freezer bags in the microwave (check manufacturer’s directions), DO NOT cook the food in the freezer bag — unless recommended by the microwave manufacturer. At the higher temperatures used in the microwave cooking process, it is possible for the plastic to reach melting temperatures.

photo: skey on flickr.com. 

Tips on portable waste tanks

By Jim Twamley

There are several portable “dump” tanks available to RVers. Most are familiar with the blue tanks with wheels, but these come in gray as well. These tanks will help extend your stay while dry camping without having to move your rig to the dump station.

Simply hook the tank up to your sewer hose and empty your black or gray tank into it. Make sure you have one large enough for the job. You may need to make several trips. You don’t want to overfill and overflow one of these when the “fecal express” is connected.

I like the type with a “T” valve so you can attach a sewer hose when you dump. The larger units have a handle easily attached to the back of a truck or golf cart and pulled to the dump station.

These are real convenient tools when you need one, but where do you store these tanks for travel? Some folks like to strap them to the ladder. Others load them on the roof if they have a storage rack. I’ve seen them tied to bumpers and strapped on the roofs of tow cars.

Editor’s note: Here are portable waste tanks in all sizes, plus accessories, at Amazon — at great prices.