We once wrote about keeping your tires safe when stored in a hot, sunny climate. One of the points we made is this: “Old Sol can make a proper job of burning things up with UV rays. Outside, be sure to thoroughly cover your tires. Industry folk tell us that tires are best preserved when blocked from all light — so dark (black) covers that fully wrap around are best.”
One of our readers took a bit of exception to this advice. He writes, “I can’t agree with using anything black to cover the tires. Black absorbs sunlight and the extra heat is not what you want on the tires. Light transmission has nothing to do with the color of the material but the material itself.”
We asked industry expert Marvin Bozarth about how to best protect tires from UV light. Mr. Bozarth is the Tire Industry Association technical expert. Marvin noted that indeed, black actually absorbs UV radiation; therefore, UV rays will get through to a tire covered with a black cover, white or other colors, unless specially treated to block UV rays.
We then called on one of the top-selling RV tire cover manufacturers for their take on the situation. A representative from ADCO Products, a maker of tire covers sold by outfits like Camping World, told us that, yes, their tire covers are made with “automotive vinyl that’s pressed with a UV inhibitor.” When we asked for information as to just how resistant to UV radiation their covers are, the representative said he couldn’t tell us — not without laboratory analysis. Push come to shove, he did say that ADCO tire covers were “in some way UV resistant.”
The Tire Industry Association’s Bozarth also told us that tires that are not completely covered with some material that resists UV radiation are susceptible to radiation damage wherever they are uncovered. UV radiation doesn’t have to fall directly on a tire — it can “bounce,” as it were, and cause damage to the back side of the tire if unprotected. He did add that the additional heat captured by a black tire cover was not a concern in terms of damaging a tire.
Mr. Bozarth said his best advice for RV owners when it comes to tire longevity is this: Don’t let your tires stand idle for months at a time. Tires are manufactured with anti-ozonate chemicals which travel to the surface of the tires to protect them against UV radiation. However, these chemicals only migrate when the tires flex — meaning, the tires must be driven on to flex. He recommends that an RV be driven a bit every one to two months for best protection.


For years my wife and I were more amused than concerned about cell phone coverage on the road. It was almost a “badge of courage” for us to find ourselves out of contact — a condition emblematic of our isolation. At times we reveled in how far away from civilization we had managed to wander.
Just how effective are those RV wind deflectors you see on trucks pulling 5th wheels and travel trailers? Though somewhat technical (what you’d expect from a Professor of RVing), this information could save you some serious cash.
For the hot water drain I selected a 1/2-inch “SharkBite” fitting with a 1/2-inch male threaded standard garden hose valve. The “SharkBite” fittings are great because you just push them on and they form a tight seal with absolutely no leaks. They can also be easily removed by compressing the release collar. This particular fitting has a braced back for securing it into the wall.
On the fresh water tank drain I used a standard 1/2-inch barbed hose connector with a 1/2-inch threaded male end attached to a standard garden hose valve. This is held in place by a hose clamp. You probably already figured out why I’m using a standard garden hose valve, and you would be correct. When I drain my fresh water tank I want to be able to attach a standard garden hose and water the trees or run it down the sewer instead of making a small lake under the coach.
That’s not entirely accurate anymore as the average age of an RVer has dipped below 50. Still, there are a lot of older RVers on the road, many over 70. So how well does the safety record of these older drivers compare those of younger ones? Darn good according to the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety.
I advise staying away from any RV that falls into the entry level, i.e., the cheap price range. The only way the manufacturers market entry-level products is by “decontenting”* the product or by pushing it down the line. I have seen some of these wherein appliances were not even wired before leaving the factory. I would also advise against buying from any manufacturer that has not been in business for at least five years. Everyone needs a track record.



The typical RV refrigerator is smaller than the one in your home and many RVers tend to overstuff it, making it difficult for air to circulate and maintain an evenly-distributed temperature. This can also cause some meat and dairy items to smell a bit after just a couple of days.
The answer is “not much!” There is very little maintenance required on a well designed solar electric battery charging system. Solar panels have no moving parts to wear out, no fuel to consume and no filters to replace. All you have to do is clean them occasionally with a non-abrasive cleaner and check the mounts and fasteners to make sure they are tight. Vibration, expansion and contraction from temperature changes have a way of loosening up hardware.
Every so often, depending on how much you have driven your RV or car, or before you embark upon a long road trip, check your tires for wear and damage problems. One easy way to check for wear is by using the penny test. All you have to do is grab your spare change and follow three easy steps.
In the classic monster movies, the mad scientist zaps his new “creation” with a huge blast of electricity — and it all goes bad from there. As RVers, the wrong kind of voltage can raise all kinds of problems for us; and it’s not just any voltage to worry about, but low voltage.
HOW CAN YOU PROTECT YOURSELF? Buy, install and use a power line monitor. You can use yours as an added safety benefit against bad electrical wiring at the RV hookup. One inside the rig watches the monitor as another plugs in the power at the pedestal. The inside person verifies that the power monitor shows “good” wiring — no reverse polarity, no “no ground” situations — any of which can lead to safety issues. Other RVers take the safety a step farther: Using the appropriate adapter, they plug their monitor directly into the power outlet on the campground pedestal, getting a “read” on the power even before plugging their RV in. The latter is a smarter approach.