By Russ and Tiña De Maris
Those who love—and preserve—an older RV often find a reality in their treasure: soft spots in the flooring. The problem is usually traced back to a water leak that’s compromised the integrity of the floor. It can sometimes be ignored for a while, but it can eventually get downright dangerous. Having a guest fall through your bathroom floor is not a pleasant thought.
Replacing a bad spot in the floor is challenging, but not impossible for the do-it-yourselfer. It takes time and patience, and at times a bit of imagination. We’ll walk you through the process.
Dry rot in RV flooring is dangerous
Extensive dry rot can endanger anyone walking on the floor. We’ve undertaken soft floor issues in our elderly travel trailer. A previous owner had let a toilet leak go to the point that an area of the plywood floor in the center of the bathroom developed dry rot. When we first acquired the trailer we tried to ignore it, but after a few months, it became apparent that ignorance wasn’t bliss. Something had to be done.
The first step in dealing with floor rot is to pray intensely that the underlying floor material is plywood. Particle board flooring is a curse, and will quickly turn to powdery fluff. Much can be learned by dismounting a floor heat register near the soft spot and taking a squint at the floor material underneath. We found 3/4-inch plywood under our vinyl floor, which meant we’d only need to cut into “solid wood” a few inches beyond the damage. If you have particle board rot, you’ll be cutting back a long way.

If at all possible, it’s best to leave the old plywood intact, as opposed to beating it into little pieces. This can give you a template to use in cutting the replacement wood.
Figure out the area you’re dealing with
In our case, the vinyl flooring was only fastened to the plywood around the borders, so we were able to use the cutout flooring as our template piece. By judicious tapping and pressing, we managed to figure out how large an area of soft wood we were dealing with, and then went a few inches farther away from the soft spot and determined that this would be the floor area that had to go.
Using a square and a felt-tip marker, we carefully drew out a rectangle on the floor as the target lines for our cut. Setting a circular saw to the thickness of the floor (and no more), we then cut along the lines. From there, it was a matter of using a pry bar and hammer to wrench the old plywood out of the hole, as the manufacturer had used plenty of long staples to install the original plywood decking.
Even with the plywood out, you’ll still likely have plenty of work getting the remaining staples out of the floor joists. We found that grabbing the staple close to the joist with diagonal pliers, and then twisting the pliers on the joist, gave enough leverage to yank the long-legged staples out of the wood. A shop vac will quickly suck up the dust and plywood fragments, keeping your work area clean and making it much easier to work.
Create a new base of support for replacement plywood RV flooring
You’ll need to create a new base of support for your replacement plywood. In some cases, you may be able to use suitably sized dimensional lumber to create new floor joists, but there will be areas where you can’t run and attach them to the existing joist system. Since you can’t have the new (and remaining good) plywood hanging in midair, a system of cleats to form that support is called for.
Basically, a cleat is a chunk of dimensional lumber (2 x 4’s are good for this) laid on its side and tucked underneath the edge of the good remaining plywood. Stick the cleat up under the existing plywood so that half of the cleat is sticking out from under the plywood, like a tongue. Using 2 1/2-inch drywall screws, we drove screws down through the existing flooring into the cleat, spacing the screws close to 3 inches on center. Purists would demand wood screws—which might be better.
When you lay the new plywood replacement piece in the hole, it will be supported by the cleat and you simply run screws through the new plywood into the cleat. Voila! The new “plug” is firmed into the spot.
In some areas, you may be very close to an existing floor joist—say the cut is right along the edge of a joist. In this case, you can make a “sister” by screwing another joist piece onto the existing joist. Here, the plywood screws into the sister.
Fill up the cracks in the flooring
Alas, the width of the circular saw blade will likely leave a kerf that’s seemingly as wide as the Grand Canyon. Depending on what you’ll use for replacement floor coverings, those cracks need to be filled up. The floor-leveling compound sold at lumberyards works OK for sticks-and-bricks homes, but it’s a plaster-based substance that easily cracks with motion. Bounce your RV down the highway a few times and if your floor-leveling compound breaks up, you’ll have it ruining your new flooring. We were stumped for a while.
Then a contractor friend said, “Bondo it!” Sure enough, automotive body filler was our answer. This turned out to be the longest part of the job. Mixing the fiberglass-like compound up, smoothing it into irregularities and cracks, drying it, then sanding it with a belt sander seemed to take forever.
Don’t try to fill deep voids or irregularities in one shot; you’ll need to come after them in a multi-layered approach. If you’re re-covering the floor with vinyl, be sure your screws are driven down deep and covered with body filler. And be sure to follow the precautions with regard to safety. Boxed up in an enclosed RV with fumes from this stuff filling your lungs is a surefire way to damage your organism.
If you’re doing a replacement vinyl floor, you’ll really need to pay close attention to getting this floor prepped smoothly, as imperfections will show. Laminates or carpeting cover a multitude of sins.
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- What to know about RV floor replacement
RVT1223



Good to confirm the process with this article. We are hiring the work for a bathroom floor. Could I do it? Probably. However, between tight spaces, having to remove and replace the fixtures and do it on-site 1,600 miles away from my workshop using my on-hand tools – it was time to hire an experienced pro.
This method works good for the campers with a wood frame. Campers with an aluminum frame and vacuum pressed construction the process would be different, especially if the very thin aluminum rotted away
Have replaced a portion of the flooring in one of the slide corners about 15″ wide due to water damage, not from window or roof roof leaking, but nonexistent drip edges on the slide. Tested with moisture meter on ceiling and walls. After unbolting and removing screws from below the slide, used a circular saw and multi tool to remove the damage, replaced with new plywood encapsulated in epoxy, beveled as the original and secured in normal fashion as the removed section and joined with pocket screws on the other end about 2″ spacing in between them. Bottom of the slide was covered with water proof tarp material, added a drip edge using a rubber seal extending a half inch below the wall.
Thank you for the information, Russ and Tina! Sounds like the worst of it would have been putting replacement wood around the toilet drain pipe. I guess that ultimately was not necessary. Have a great week and safe travels!