Issue 998 • November 1, 2018
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If you RV in a high-humidity environment, condensation can be a real pain. Here are a few tricks to try and help you dry up. When cooking on the stove top, try and keep a lid on your pot – less steam escaping. Use the microwave when you can. Run the range hood when cooking, and open roof vents, too. Keep the roof vents cracked a smidge at all times, allowing for escape of humid air. Open a window for a few minutes a couple of times a day to cycle in fresh air. A light layer of kitty litter in pans will also help absorb moisture, although a mechanical dehumidifier will work oh-so-much better.
Squeaky fan belt?
If your rig is old enough to even have such a critter, you may get that occasional obnoxious squeal. First, make sure the component that the belt is driving is adjusted properly. Still squeak? It could be the belt is glazed. Sure you can replace the belt, but if time is a factor and you need to put it off a bit, then put a few dabs of toothpaste along the belt. That abrasion that wears down your tooth enamel may clear the belt glaze and stop the squeak!
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Today’s brain teaser (answer below): Two cars were involved in an accident in the center of town. The man who was driving a little green car had overtaken a big black car. The driver had misjudged the distance between him and the on-coming traffic and had to swerve back in, causing the black car to swerve and crash into a shop window. When the occupants of the cars were examined everyone in the green car was okay, but in the black car was one dead man. However, the driver of the green car was not charged with manslaughter. Why was this so?
MORE QUICK TIPS
Keep those floor vents clean
“Floor vents are wonderful to disperse the heat but they can ‘collect’ items,” writes Jon Guenther. “We cut metal mesh window screen and placed over the hole and made sure it was large enough for the vent to push it down and still have some screen to trim off once the vent is in place. This keeps items and even dirt from falling into the duct.” Thanks, Jon, for pre-screening your suggestion!
When your motorhome is stored, operate both your main engine and your auxiliary generator under a load for 30 minutes at least monthly. This will circulate oil and pump a fresh supply of gas through carburetors and fuel injectors. Small engine repair shops sell gasoline additives that keep varnish from forming in fuel systems. For long-term storage, use it in recommended amounts. It is somewhat expensive, but wait till you see what fuel system repair costs are if you don’t use the additive. You can buy it here.
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WEBSITES OF THE DAY
Need something to cheer you up? Visit this website, which calls itself “a magazine for visual addicts,” to find articles such as “29 photos of animals in love that can warm a frozen heart” and “20 oil paintings show us how people with bad eyesight see the world when they take their glasses off.”
Check out the long list of great RVing-related websites from RVtravel.com.
PRODUCT OF THE DAY: A cutting board that does, well, everything!
Answer to today’s brain teaser: The black car was a hearse and was on its way to a funeral.
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There was a man who entered a local paper’s pun contest. He sent in ten different puns, in the hope that at least one of the puns would win. Unfortunately, no pun in ten did.
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Everything in this newsletter is true to the best of our knowledge. But we occasionally get something wrong. We’re just human! So don’t go spending $10,000 on something we said was good simply because we said so, or fixing something according to what we suggested (check with your own technician first). Maybe we made a mistake. Tips and/or comments in this newsletter are those of the authors and may not reflect the views of RVtravel.com or this newsletter.
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The Winter Warmup tip is wrong and would be harmful to your vehicle. Here’s what to do when storing a vehicle: Buy a bottle of Sta-Bil gas treatment at Walmart, Target, auto supply stores, etc. . Get enough to treat a full tank of gas. The regular size bottle, about $8.00, treats 20 gallons. At the gas station, dump the Sta-Bil in first, then fill the tank with gas. Now, drive for at least ten minutes to circulate the gas treatment throughout the fuel system. Now, park the vehicle and don’t touch it till you put it into service or 1.5 years, whichever comes first. The Sta-Bil will keep all of the fuel fresh. No need to start the engine to circulate fuel. Running the engine for a few minutes monthly will only cause moisture to accumulate and will, most likely, cause damage. Of course, put a battery tender on your battery, and it will be ready when you are. This probably does not apply to Diesels. I know nothing about storing them.
I can’t agree with the screen in the heat registers
Window screen is fifty (50) percent blockage. You are increasing the static pressure on the furnace and may overheat and even blow the overheat fuse. My Rv has only 2 hoses coming out of the furnace and the air was VERY hot .i added 2 more outlets and it made all the difference in the world.
Similar to Dr4Film, I measure the park water pressure first, and then install a regulator only if it is greater than 55 psi. I have tried both a cheap regulator, and a pricey one, and found that both restricted flow too much if their inlet pressure was below 55 psi.
On the restrictor poll… I put never, as I always use an adjustable and gauged water pressure regulator. When I started out with a trailer (many years ago), I had three of those in-line restrictors fail on me in about a 5 year span. After the third, I invested in a quality regulator and have never experience another failure, plus I can increase/decrease the pressure as needed. Typically, I keep the pressure at 60 psi.
And I also agree with those who don’t agree with running your diesel engine without driving it… for the reasons stated by Dave and George. Cummins recommends not allowing your engine to idle for more than a few minutes….cold or hot.
The municipal park in Boardman, OR (back in 1989 at least) ran their water pressure near 100 psi. I have for years always used an adjustable pressure regulator. The one I have now is made by Valterra. Last year the needle in the dial got stuck, I sent them a photo, and the company sent me a new gauge at no cost. They were really good to deal with. I find 45-50 psi, in the non-adjustable regulators, just a little low for showering so I run it at 60 psi. Big thing to remember is put the regulator on at the park tap which protects your hose. Also shut off the water when you leave your RV for any extended time. Thirdly, when you shut off the water at the park tap, release the pressure by turning on a tap “in house”. If you don’t there is no place for the increased pressure to go should the sun hit and heat your hose, which may cause it to weaken or burst.
I don’t agree with WARMING up your engine for 30 minutes. When you do that, you don’t get it hot enough to evaporate the moisture in your engine & oil pan when you shut it off & thats not even good, better off not starting it at all! As far as running your generator under load is good once a month, but my Onan dealer told me to run it for TWO hours under load for my Diesel generator. The same guy told me to run my other M/H gas generator for only one hour. Go figure!
Dave, I agree in not running a diesel engine at idle for any extended period of time. My son is a journeyman (I suppose it should be journeyperson) mechanic and works with Kenworths. If the diesel isn’t run at operating temps, ie: going down the road under load, the engine doesn’t get warm enough to heat up the pistons and rings and diesel will seep into the crankcase contaminating the crankcase oil necessitating an oil change earlier than it should. If not under load unburned fuel can also cause needless pollution. Plus, every time a piston travels up and down a cylinder, the rings and cylinder walls wear just a little bit. The best rule is, if you’re not underway, turn off the engines.
I’m been a mechanic for 40+ years.
I’m in total agreement about running the engine at all, the generator too, over the winter. Beside moisture in the oil and crankcase, the exhaust system never gets hot enough to steam it away so it promotes rust and corrosion on the inside, where you can’t see it. I’ve found that by using a brand name fuel (like Mobil, Sxxon, Shell) and in the fall changing the oil, everything is just fine come springtime.
Good Day Bob: Interesting dissertation on starting or not during storage. One expert says yes many say no! Who to believe? (I trust the mechanic!)
My question concerns wear and corrosion (rust) on cylinder walls, timing chain slack-stress, etc. I use Mobil 1, 10w-30 in my GM 454 in a Class A MH. It is outside stored in ND seasons (+95f w/humidity -30f low humidity). what is your opinion on engine pre-oilers? Thanks.
i boon dock 99.99% of thevtime. so not a issue for me. but in the couple times i have been in a oark. yes i did use a regulater.
am fat fingers of mine sorry about the tyops.
I have always used a pressure regulator – except one time. I checked the hose bib with a pressure gauge and it showed 45 psi. What the heck. I left the regulator off. About an hour later water came gushing out beneath the lav door. GUSHING! A hose blew on the back of the toilet – ripped a gash in it. Wifey ran outside to shut down the water while I foolishly tried to squeeze the hose and stop the flow.
Turns out it was a combination to two things. We had just replaced the toilet and ran new hosing (which we bought using the recommendations of an ‘RV expert’ at “State Trailer Supply” in Phoenix). Got rid of that piece of wrong strength hose and replaced it with a chunk of our fresh water hose and a couple old style hose clamps. Problem solved.
Oh, and we NEVER don’t put the pressure regulator on! That was the second thing,
I have the pressure restricter installed permanently on the trailer inlet, not at the park rv hose bib. This way I never have to consider it. The supply hose always has full park pressure but this has never been a bursting issue.
When the shore water pressure is so low there is really no need for a pressure reducer so I leave it off. I always measure the water pressure at the spigot before hooking up the water line. If it is 50 psi or below I leave it off. I also have the on-board water pump activated 24/7 so if the water pressure goes below the preferred level the water pump kicks in to supplement the pressure.