Should we run the RV refrigerator and the roof A/C between trips?

Hey Dave,
We store our travel trailer in our extended driveway and leave it plugged into a 30-amp circuit when not in use. Typically we go camping about every 4–6 weeks. But during the “down times,” is it better to leave the refrigerator (Dometic 120 volt + propane) running at lowest setting, or turn off completely? Also, what do you suggest with the air conditioner? We typically keep it set at around 85 during the hot summer months. Is this a good idea? Or should the A/C be turned off during times between trips? Thank you, sir. —Steven, 2021 Grand Design Imagine XL 17MKE

Hi Steven,
Wow, I did not think any RV manufacturer was installing the absorption refrigerators. At the six shows I did seminars this past spring they were hard to find!

I would shut the refrigerator down between trips as 4–6 weeks down time would mean you are most likely emptying the refrigerator and don’t need to keep anything cold or frozen. The only downside of that is cooling it back down when you get ready to go. This could take 8 hours or more. One little tip: Do not put warm food into a warm refrigerator and expect to go camping any time soon! Cool your food in the house refrigerator and add as many frozen items as possible to the RV fridge after cooling it down.

Keep in mind, your refrigerator needs to be level 3 degrees side to side, and 6 degrees front to back, so the liquid coolant doesn’t pool in the cooling unit and get clogged. Your driveway most likely has a slant more than 3 degrees.

Roof air conditioner

As for the roof air conditioner, I would leave it off and crack open a few roof vents if you have the Fantastic cover. If you have access to 120-volt power, you could install a few fans to get additional airflow and move some humidity around.

House batteries

One other consideration is the house batteries while in storage. Letting them sit without a charger or conditioner will cause sulfation and deplete the storage capabilities. If you are plugged into shoreline power, your rig most likely does not have a multistage charger and will only stay at a constant 13.2-volt maintenance charge.

In a recent post regarding Rolls brand batteries, the technician recommended a Victron IP22 charger to get the new batteries up to 14.7 volts for a bulk stage charge. I don’t think you need to go to that extreme. However, I do think a BatteryMINDer^® would be a good item to have. It uses high-impact waves to break up sulfation and would be good during storage. You can find them at Northern Tool here or Amazon.

If you have just one battery, you can use this model that is on sale at Northern Tool for $19.99, otherwise you will need the larger model. I have used these for many years and recommend them at all my seminars—they really do work.

 You might also enjoy this from Dave 

RV’s house and chassis batteries drain fast during storage. What causes this?

Dear Dave,
I went out to move the motorhome and discovered all three batteries were dead: the chassis (at 4V) and coach (both at 9V) batteries. The RV had sat for about two weeks (since last trip). We did not notice anything out of the ordinary when we had the RV out on our last trip. We were connected to shore power. The battery switches were set to “off” when we parked the RV at home. I currently have all the batteries isolated, hoping to see if I can recharge them one at a time and save them. Any ideas as to the cause? The RV is still under warranty but the dealer is 300 miles away. Thanks! —Jack, 2022 Winnebago Adventurer 29B

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Dave Solberg is a leading expert in the RV industry and the author of the “RV Handbook.”

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