By Cheri Sicard
In the video below, the team from Playing with Sticks shows how to convert a cargo trailer into a functional camper in just one day without any building.
While they have since upgraded, this family of adventurers lived out of a no-build camper for more than 10,000 miles across Alaska, Canada, and the Lower 48. They spent four straight months, two years in a row, on the road, homeschooling and balancing adventure with everyday life.
The foundation: The E-Track system explained
What exactly is an E-Track system? It’s a way to mount cargo attachment points to a trailer to secure items. The best part? You can move those attachment points anywhere within the rail system. This gives limitless customization. Plus, you don’t need any tools to make adjustments. Watch the video to see it in action.
Essential components
- E-Track rail: This is the base of the whole system. It provides the tracks where everything connects.
- E-Track wood bracket: This connects standard 2×4 or 2×6 lumber to the E-Track.
Building the base platform
- Cut the 2×4: Cut a 2×4 to the width of the trailer. Don’t worry about being too precise—the system is forgiving. Even a cheap $5 yard sale saw will work if power tools aren’t available.
- Install the 2×4 into the bracket: Simply drop the 2×4 into the bracket. Now, move the bracket wherever needed on the E-Track.
- Optional: 2×6 stop: A 2×6 can act as a stop for the bed, preventing it from sliding during travel. It can also serve as a bunk guard. It’s OK to use fewer braces than shown; it’s a flexible setup.
Adding the plywood bed platform
Plywood is the final layer. Like the 2x4s, precise cuts aren’t crucial. If you don’t have tools, Home Depot or Lowe’s can make “rip cuts.”
Horizontal vs. vertical E-Track mounting
- Horizontal mounting: This provides flexibility from front to back but limits vertical adjustment.
- Vertical mounting: This offers up-and-down adjustability for beds and other components.
Securing the platform
To secure the platform, you can drill the plywood into the 2x4s for extra security. However, the weight of the bed and bedding might be enough to hold it in place. This allows for quick and easy reconfiguration. Plus, no screws makes it easier to change the setup.
Configuration options: Layout adaptability
Here are some layout ideas to consider:
- Layout 1: Queen Bed + Upper Bunk: A queen bed on the bottom with a bunk above for adults or children. There’s still decent standing space for cooking, prepping, and hanging out.
- Layout 2: Queen Bed on Top + Lower Bunk/Gear Platform: Move the queen bed to the top, creating a bunk below for sleeping or gear storage. Two layers of gear storage are possible under the upper bed. The lower bunk can even be removed entirely to haul gear. A futon can be added for seating that converts to a bed. This allows 4-6 people to sleep comfortably.
The beauty of this system is how easy it is to switch between configurations based on needs. For example, use it to haul gear during the week, then quickly convert it to a camper for the weekend.
Think about whether to mount E-tracks horizontally or vertically. This impacts bed height and gear space. It’s a trade-off between headroom and gear space under the bed.
Essential gear: Outfitting the cargo trailer camper
Here’s a list of gear to consider:
- Mattress selection: Choose a mattress that isn’t too thick. This maximizes headroom, especially for the bunk.
- Refrigeration: A dual-zone fridge is recommended for longer trips. It allows keeping items frozen and cool at the same time. A single-zone fridge is a more budget-friendly option that still works well.
- Smaller power stations: They’re easier to move and more affordable. Two smaller units can be more versatile than one large unit. Advantages of smaller power stations include being easier to move and use in multiple locations, plus quick charging capabilities. However, for running high-wattage appliances like hairdryers or AC heaters, choose a larger power station.
- Ambient lighting: Fairy lights create a nice atmosphere. Use USB or 12V lights to minimize energy consumption.
- Utility lighting: Small, portable lights provide ample light.
- Mounting lights: Use 3M Command Hooks for easy, no-damage installation.
- Storage: Sterilite drawers are a simple and effective storage solution and can be secured with bungees during transit.
- Ventilation: A vent fan isn’t always necessary. Use magnetic bug mesh on the doors for ventilation and a small 12V fan for additional airflow.
- Solar power: Use portable solar panels to recharge power stations. A 200-watt panel is a good size for easy portability. Look for a flat panel that can easily slide under seats or the bed.
- Sink and camp kitchen: One option is a portable wash system with a rinse bucket and water container with a pump and camp stove. Watch the video for options.
- Additional table space: Use a drop-down table for extra prep space. Consider a tire table that attaches to the tow vehicle.
- Buddy heaters: Portable propane heaters.
- Toilet: The video suggests using the Joolca GottaGo toilet.
- Creating privacy: Create a partition wall for privacy using a Velcro system, track system, or hula hoop. This helps at night when one person is sleeping and the other person is working.
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Great video! Thanks
This reminds me of our time in Vietnam when we lived out of a M113 ACAV . Many times we let the back ramp down part way to use as a “patio” of sorts…worked quite well to stay out of the mud while imbibing in our warm beer. Cant say as much for the cramped inside though.
Great video! Using E-tracks I can make adjustable or removable shelves in our cargo trailer as needed too, which I hadn’t thought of until the video.
Thank you for noting the video and summarizing it, Cheri! Fascinating stuff and impressive creativity. Would be much more attractive to me 40 years ago. Now? Not so much. Still, was an extremely entertaining video. Have a great week and safe travels!