By Dave Helgeson
There is a saying that goes something like this: “Ain’t she pretty, ain’t she fine, I am going to make her mine.” Unfortunately the decision to buy an RV is often based on looks (curb appeal – inside and out) rather than function. Yes, buyers consider floor plan and amenities in their buying decision, but many fail to take a close look at specifications until after the sale – often discovering the unit doesn’t fit their planned uses for it.
Some items to look for in an RV:
- Cargo Carrying Capacity (CCC): The CCC is the weight of items the RV can safely carry without becoming overloaded. For the past ten years or so RV manufacturers have been required to post the CCC on the RV, but unfortunately few feel obligated to include the CCC in brochures or on the specifications listed on their websites. Following is how to calculate CCC if you are looking to purchase an older RV that does not include a CCC sticker or you need to calculate it for a new unit based on the basic information you are able obtain from the manufacturer.
The Cargo Carrying Capacity (CCC) of an RV can be calculated by taking the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) then subtracting the dry weight of the RV, the weight of the full water tank, the weight of full propane tanks and the seating capacity weight rating (SCWR). Detailed instructions:
- Find the vehicle’s gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR) on manufacturer’s specifications.
- Subtract the vehicle’s dry weight aka unloaded vehicle weight (UVW).
- Subtract the weight of the fresh water (water tank and water heater) the unit is designed to carry. Note: Water weighs just over 8.3 pounds per gallon.
- Subtract the weight of propane the vehicle can carry. Note: Propane weighs just over 4.2 pounds per gallon
- If the RV is a motorhome, subtract the weight of the seating capacity weight rating (SCWR) (150 pounds times the number of seating positions).
A low CCC might not be a problem for a couple using the RV on short trips where they are carrying minimal food, gear, etc., traveling to a full hookup RV park. That would negate the need to travel with a full potable water tank and returning home with full holding tanks. However, a low CCC will most certainly be a problem if you are looking to live full time in the RV taking all of your worldly possessions with you. Click here to learn more about dreaded low Cargo Carrying Capacities and some options to counter them from RVTravel’s own Russ and Tiña De Maris.
- Towing Capacity: If you are looking to purchase a motorhome and plan on towing a dinghy, boat, cargo trailer, etc., be sure and check what the unit is rated to tow before completing the purchase. You will need to check the towing capacity of the drive train as well as carrying capacity (both total weight and tongue weight) of the hitch.
- Tank Capacities: I am not sure manufactures ever place much thought into tank capacities (potable fresh water, grey and black tanks) other than what will conveniently fit in the remaining space after everything else in the unit has been laid out. Maybe they think everyone stays in a full-hookup RV park and tank capacities don’t really matter.
You will typically find one of the following two scenarios: 1) A large fresh water tank and insufficient black and grey tanks to handle the downstream side of the equation, leaving you wondering how you could ever use all of your fresh water before overflowing your waste tanks. 2) A modest-sized fresh water tank and huge holding tanks, leaving you wondering in what situation could you ever utilize the full capacity of the waste tanks.
There are plausible answers to both scenarios, but they don’t apply to the average RVer, so be sure to review the specifications and make sure the capacities are in line with how you plan to use the RV.