Free boondocking at the world-famous Bagdad Café on Route 66

In 1987, German director Percy Adlon released a small, gentle film that went on to touch hearts all over the world. Bagdad Café was never a mainstream American hit, but it became a phenomenon almost everywhere else.

In the U.S., it found an appreciative arthouse audience, and its haunting theme song, “Calling You,” earned an Academy Award nomination (listen and see the video with scenes from the movie here). There was even a short-lived American sitcom loosely based on the movie, starring Whoopi Goldberg and Jean Stapleton. It was atrocious! Thankfully, it disappeared quickly, lacking the heart, charm, and quiet magic that made the original film so beloved.

Abroad, however, Bagdad Café was huge—especially in France—despite being a German film shot in English and set in the California desert. On a recent stop along iconic Route 66 in California, I was reminded just how deeply this little movie still resonates with people around the world.

Airstream trailer at the Bagdad Cafe, Newberry Springs, CA
Airstream trailer at the Bagdad Cafe

The story itself is simple, sweet, and quirky: strangers forming bonds and finding meaning in the most unlikely of places. That gentle message created legions of devoted fans who still hold the film close decades later.

You’ll find the real-life Bagdad Café in the tiny town of Newberry Springs, California. This is the actual building and landscape where the movie was filmed. The neighboring motel, also in the movie, has since been demolished, though its foundation and old neon sign remain.

Bagdad Cafe water tower in ruins
Bagdad Cafe water tower in ruins

The iconic water tower was blown over in a windstorm and now lies on its side, rusting away—further evidence that the movie’s “magic” (fans will get the reference) has faded from the physical world.

Free overnight boondocking

Visitors should know that the café offers free overnight boondocking for self-contained RVs in its parking lot. It’s quiet, safe, and a popular stop for travelers following Route 66.

To be honest, in its current state, the stop is underwhelming—unless you’re a fan of the movie. But underwhelming is kind of the point. The film itself reminds us that you never know where, or with whom, you’ll find real connection and meaning.

Today, there is no café serving meals—just a Route 66 gift shop filled with memorabilia and movie history. The longtime owner passed away just a week before my visit, so I didn’t get to meet her, though the shop was still open. As a self-confessed superfan, I was thrilled to be there—and I wasn’t alone.

Marian, behind the counter of the Bagdad Cafe
Marian, behind the counter of the Bagdad Cafe

While I was inside, a carload of Korean tourists arrived, buzzing with excitement. We struck up a conversation, and I learned that the movie—and its theme song—are still deeply loved in Korea. The group’s host lives in Orange County and told me he regularly brings his Korean friends and clients out here to the desert to see the place where the movie was made.

Watching these Korean businessmen laugh, and pore over memorabilia while chatting warmly and taking souvenir photographs with their arms around Marian—the woman behind the counter who has lived in the desert for decades—brought tears to my eyes. That moment of connection between people who otherwise might never cross paths felt like the true spirit of the film made real.

Tourists from all over the world stop at the Bagdad Café

Marian says this happens all the time. Tourists from all over the world stop here, but the French, in particular, adore the movie. Busloads of French visitors regularly arrive just to see where their favorite film came to life.

I count Bagdad Café among my top ten favorite films, and I can’t help but wonder how many boondocking RVers over the years have watched—or rewatched—it in that very parking lot. I know I did, and I’ve seen it so many times I can practically recite it.

It’s a remarkable testament to the power of storytelling that this obscure, rundown desert stop still draws visitors from across the globe, all because of a quiet little movie released in 1987—never a blockbuster, but clearly a film that mattered.

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RVT1246

Cheri Sicard
Cheri Sicardhttps://cannademy.com/
Cheri Sicard is the author 8 published books on topics as diverse as US Citizenship to Cannabis Cooking. Cheri grew up in a circus family and has been RVing on and off her entire life.

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Mtryalex
5 months ago

Have stayed at the Newberry Springs RV Park a few times, not because of the movie*, but because the location is the right distance for an overnight stop on trips to or from the central coast of California to parts of Arizona. Try to stay as far from the railroad tracks and freeway as possible, because of lots of noise from both.

*We really liked the movie, along with the unforgettable song.

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Tony Barthel
4 months ago

We just stopped at the Bagdad Cafe last week – what a delightful experience! Marion was there and she is just a hoot. We did a recap of that on our ongoing Route 66 blog here: https://www.stresslesscamping.com/our-journey/bagdad-cafe