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Decisions based on RV weight? Do you know what yours weighs?

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Decisions based on RV weight? Do you know what yours weighs?

By Steve Savage, Mobility RV Service

I don’t understand. Given how simple it is to weigh an RV, whether driven or towed, and how little it costs, why aren’t folks weighing their RVs? On the Internet, I read frequent discussions related to weight: “Can my truck pull this?” “Can my tires carry that?” Yet it is seldom the case that the folks participating in the discussion know the actual weight they will be towing or carrying, let alone the total weight of their truck or tow vehicle when it is full of fuel and loaded as it would be for whatever foray they have in mind.

For those who are not sure how to weigh their tow vehicle and trailer, I normally proceed like this:

1.  Find a travel center that has a CAT scale where tractor trailers weigh their trucks. You can find a list here.

2.  Go to one with your rig in tow. You can do this on a trip. Fill whatever is going to do the pulling with fuel, along with whatever will be riding in it on the trip.

3.  Tell the person at the counter you want to weigh your RV. They will say, “Go for it” — as your money spends just like truckers’ money does!

4.  Drive up on the scale and run your front wheel over the first divider. Your rear wheels will be on a separate part of the scale and your trailer will be on its own pad.

5.  In a second, a green light will signal you to come in and pay your money and get your weight receipt. On the receipt will be weights for your steer wheels, your drive wheels, and your trailer.

The procedure may vary slightly, but it is always very simple, and never once has anyone sent us packing when we asking about weighing our truck and RV.

Now, in the best of all worlds, it would be great if you weighed your truck by itself and then hitched up, but I will take what I can get. At least a single run will tell you where you stand in relation to manufacturers’ ratings.

I know some folks get caught up in side-to-side weights, and you can get those by making a second run with only one side of your wheels on the pads, provided there is room around the scale— but in most cases I think that is overkill.

Yes, I understand there are exceptions and the weights on each wheel can be helpful, but that is probably more easily obtained at an RV show where the RV Safety & Education Foundation (RVSEF) is present. They are great folks and they will have scales to weigh each wheel. Their schedule is here.

Editor: Here is additional information from RV tire expert Roger Marble:

One simple step to add when you only know your total load by axle but not side-to-side weights. Simply assume the weight split side to side is not 50/50, but more likely something like 47%/53%— except you don’t know which side is heavier. Just use the 53% figure when consulting the Load & Inflation tables.Another thing to consider is you have a multi-axle trailer. You also need to assume the axle-to-axle load split is more like 47/53 on a two-axle trailer, and on a triple it probably isn’t 1/3-1/3-1/3, but one axle might have 35% of the total. After that calculation I would still apply the 47/53 and be concerned if the 53% number is higher than the tire max capacity. If it is, then it becomes very important that you at least get the load on the individual axles if not on the individual tires.

Remember: Axle weights can only give the average weight is you simply divide by the total number of tires, but in all probability the tire with the heaviest load is the one most likely to fail first, unless you have a different tire lose air for some reason.

photo: public domain

A simple step can keep your tank monitor probes clean

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By Bob Difley

How much water is in your gray water tank? Can you push the button on the monitor panel and be really sure that the reading you get is accurate? Many RVers would say, “No!” It’s true — a major curse in RVing is those faulty readings. Why so?

Food particles and other debris that collect in your kitchen sink from food preparation and washing dishes ends up in your gray water tank and can cause odors, can get caught on your gray water tank monitor probes resulting in inaccurate readings, and can get stuck in your dump valve preventing it from closing tightly, causing leaks.

You can prevent these problems with a stainless steel drain screen, available in hardware stores, that fits into your sink drain. Throw whatever it collects in the trash, before it enters your waste tank.

Abandon your black tank!

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By Chris Noble

I’ve seen so many tips and tricks on dealing with the dumping of black tanks on RVs that my head is spinning — but here is what I consider the absolute best tip of all: Don’t even use a black tank. What? I hear you say, “But that isn’t going to work; who can hold it all weekend,” right? Well, here is my tip and by far the single best investment I have ever made in my motorhome.

Composting toilets need no plumbing connection

My wife and I decided to live in our RV full-time and do a lot of boondocking. We hated the idea of having to dump the tanks, so we found a little device called a composting toilet and have never looked back. If you are not sure what it is, follow the links and research them and you, too, may find them to be amazing. Even if you are only a weekend warrior, a composting toilet has so many benefits that you may find it well worth the investment.

I can hear the questions now, so I will try to answer the main ones.

Does it smell? Yep, like dirt. Seriously, it smells like soil and not at all like poop. When you set up your toilet, you place peat moss in the “tank” and as it gets filled and mixed, the stuff turns into nature’s intended role and the “waste” becomes compost.

How do you get rid of it? You can either bury it, put it into your compost pile, or it can go into the landfill because the bad stuff gets broken down into good stuff. Here is the key to successful composting, though: You have to keep the yellow liquids separate from the brown solids, period. If the two mix, you get the nasty stuff that you normally find in an RV black tank — P.U.!

So where does the yellow stuff go? The composting toilet is designed to separate the two and the yellow stuff goes into a small enclosed container of about two gallons that you can easily remove from the unit to dump. So, yes, you still need to dump the yellow tank but you can do that in any toilet in any rest area or gas station and it doesn’t smell like you might think. (Insider’s hint: After you dump and rinse it put a cap full of bleach inside the empty “yellow” tank when you reinstall). The yellow tank only holds a couple of gallons so we dump it just about every other day. As for the compost bin, it depends on how much it is used, but we can go for two to three weeks before it needs to be emptied.

What’s the next question — Oh, yeah. Is it hard to install? It can be quite the task if you are not mechanically inclined as you have to remove your existing toilet, have 12-volt power and have a place to run the vent line — but once you get that done, your black tank woes are gone forever. (Here is another insider’s tip: When you remove your old toilet, use the existing water line that would have provided the flush to plumb in a small spray handle so you can rinse the toilet after use.) It took me the better part of a day for the install, but the results have paid off so much that I will never own an RV with a “normal” toilet again.

Why 12-volts and how much power does it use? There is a small computer-type fan that runs constantly which creates a negative pressure inside the toilet and draws out the odors and exhausts it out of the coach. As for how much power? It would take weeks/months to drain the house batteries depending on your battery capacity, but the drain is so low it really is a non-issue. If you are a weekend warrior and rarely use your rig, a small trickle charger connected will more than keep your batteries in good shape and run this small fan. Another insider tip: Keep the lid closed and you will have much better luck at keeping the air clear.

Now for the vent line: When I installed ours I removed a panel that exposed the black tank vent line that just happened to run behind the existing toilet. I then installed a tee fitting, using a hole saw. I drilled a hole in the panel for the tee to protrude and reinstalled it, hooked the fan line to that tee and voila!

So how much does it cost? This is where the painful part comes into play. These units can run about a thousand dollars, but not having to dump a black tank and being able to camp in sites without a dump station is priceless.

Any other bonuses to consider? Yep, there is the weight savings to consider as there is no need to haul gallons of yuck around and the unit weighs next to nothing compared to an RV toilet (especially if it is porcelain). There are very few moving parts, so this thing will last. The entire unit can be easily removed from the RV for the occasional thorough cleaning — take it outside, remove the “contents” and hose the crap out of it — pun intended. You can use REAL toilet paper because it will breakdown in the composting process and you don’t have to worry about clogging any drain lines; so, therefore, the paper that falls apart in your hand can stay at the camping store. You don’t need gallons and gallons of water to flush it so you can use that water for other, more valuable things. Oh, and did I mention that you will never have to dump a black tank again?

The model in the image is from a company called ## Natures Head.

photos by the author

Use bicycle bottles for your handy drinking water suppliers

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By Greg Illes

After many years of anywhere from serious to casual cycling, bicycle water bottles had become a familiar accessory to us. So it was no leap of imagination when we saw opportunities to use them outside of our cycling activities.

We’ve found these bottles to be extremely versatile for many venues. They have so many virtues:

•  Inexpensive — Good ones run only $5-$8 apiece, a lot cheaper than those hard-plastic fancy water bottles. You also save cash by not buying disposables.
•  Recycleable — You use these bottles over and over; they don’t add to a landfill like disposable water bottles.
•  Leak-proof — Most are good, but check before you buy with a squeeze-test. The empty bottle should hold air with no hissing.
•  Spill-proof — Even if it’s in the “open” position, only a dribble comes out if you drop it or knock it over.
•  Unbreakable — Truly tough bottles, won’t crack and split like the throwaway water bottles.
•  Quiet — The pliable plastic doesn’t rattle and clatter when you’re on the road.
•  Unforgettable — Park one everywhere you need one, and never forget to bring it along.

•  And best of all, you can buy those clever clip-rack bottle holders to hang a bottle almost anywhere you like. The one in the photo is at our bedside, for those nighttime sips.

We must own ten or more of these little gems. Here’s a partial list of where we park them:

•  In our backpacks,
•  Near the motorhome captain’s chairs,
•  In the toad,
•  At our bedside,
•  Near the dinette,
•  In the bathroom,
•  And, of course, on the bicycles.

They’re cheap enough that we don’t worry about moving them from spot to spot. If we find a new place, we just add a bottle.

The only caveats are: They aren’t good for hot, flavored or carbonated beverages, and — you have to remember to fill them up (grin).

photo: Greg Illes

Greg Illes is a retired systems engineer who loves thinking up RV upgrades and modifications. When he’s not working on his motorhome, he’s traveling in it. You can follow his blog at www.divver-city.com/blog.

Fixing a leaky toilet valve seal

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By Russ and Tiña De Maris

One of the more frustrating aspects of RVing can be dealing with odors in your bathroom. Chemical manufacturers have made tons of money selling a variety of brews and drop-ins, all said to eliminate the odors, and largely emptying pocketbooks. At times the real problem isn’t so much what’s in the black water tank, but a poor seal at the bottom of the toilet that allows that black tank odor to migrate back up into your bathroom.

An oft-cited culprit: the blade valve used in many RV toilets. The blade valve rests at the bottom of the toilet bowl. Its function is to hold water in the toilet bowl and to prevent gases from coming back up. Step on the toilet evacuation pedal, the blade swings back, allowing the contents to drop. Lift up off the pedal, the blade swings back, forming a water- and gas-tight seal. Or so it goes in theory.

In practice, however, things can happen to prevent the valve from making a tight seal. RVers have thrown up all sorts of “fixes” for this problem — they’re a staple of RV forum group discussions. Very often a “cure” that’s shared is to open the blade valve and then apply some sort of grease —often advised is petroleum jelly — to the rubber seal that the blade valve seats in.

Please don’t follow that advice.

Putting any sort of gunk that contains a petroleum product on that rubber seal will simply cause it to degrade — and more than likely create a situation where it will leak even worse. Here’s the advice of professional RV repair technicians:

First, get a handle on the issue. Often the cause of the leak between seal and blade valve is that “foreign material” (we don’t mean stuff made in China) gets caught in the rubber seal. That unwelcome gunk can create gaps where water and gas can pass. Get rid of the foreign material and often you’ll get rid of the leak factor. Take a round toilet bowl brush in hand and step on the evacuation pedal to open the valve. Now scrub all around the rubber seal to release the junk. You may need to repeat this a few times.

Did it work? Great! No? Well, more difficult measures may need to be brought to bear. This may call for actually disassembling the toilet to access the seal and giving it a more careful and thorough cleaning. Before reassembly, coat the seal with something that will not damage the rubber seal. One recommended product is Dow Corning 111 Molykote, which is a sealing compound specifically made for use with rubber seals — the stuff won’t damage them. It’s not real cheap, but can be found on Amazon.

Push come to shove, you might even have to replace the seal. Whatever you do, pass on the petroleum.

Using a propane heater in your RV? Be careful!

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By Jim Twamley

RVers have been using propane heat for almost as long as there have been RVs. Most RVs come with a forced air heater that operates on electricity for the blower and uses a propane burner for a heat source. These heaters provide a warm, comfortable environment for your RV but take a big bite from your budget.

Alternative heating sources are more common now, but they all need to be handled safely. Properly installed, catalytic heaters are very cost effective. They should be vented to the outside of your rig and installed in a safe place away from anyflammable material. [Editor’s note: Not all catalytic heaters offer the feature of outside venting. Still, they may be used safely — read on.]

As with the heaters I’m going to talk about, they all require that you keep a window or vent open to allow for replenishment of oxygen (the stuff your body requires in order to keep breathing). Propane heaters with ceramic elements are very popular because many of them provide both radiant and forced air heat. The Mr. Heater company (Mr. Heater) makes many portable heater models, but the BIG Buddy (available at Amazon) is a good choice for the RV. This BTU beast has multiple settings allowing you to pump out 4,000, 9,000 and 18,000 BTUs an hour.

The nice thing about this unit is that it has a built-in oxygen shutoff sensor and tip-over cut-off switch for safe indoor operation. I put a unit like this in one of my previous 5th wheels and I ran a flexible connector hose from the propane storage rack to the heater inside my coach. You can use a portable propane bottle with this model as well; however, you may not bring the bottle indoors. Follow the manufacturer’s directions carefully when using it in this manner.

Mr. Heater also makes the “Portable Buddy” (at Amazon) that has the same safety features as its big brother but uses a one-pound cylinder and lasts 3 to 6 hours. It can also be connected to a larger propane tank. The nice thing about these heaters is that you can take them with you to workshops, enclosed porches, cabins, hunting blinds, tents and anywhere you need heat.

Tank-top heaters are for outdoor use only — NEVER use this kind of heater inside your RV. Please do not use your propane oven or stove top burner to heat your RV. People die every year because they try to heat their living spaces like this. Finally, check your fire extinguishers to make sure they are fully charged and ready to go to work in an emergency.

[Editor’s note: Buddy heaters are “ceramic” heaters, which operate differently than catalytics.]

Should I buy a motorhome with a gas or a diesel engine?

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Should I buy a motorhome with a gas or a diesel engine?

Steve Savage submitted this article to RVtravel.com when he was a Master Certified RV Technician with Mobility RV Service.

Should I buy a motorhome with a gas or a diesel engine? Good question. Not a simple answer.

In general, I do not think one type is always better or worse. Rather, I encourage buyers to consider size and weight. When you get into larger motorhomes — which I define as more than 34 feet and certainly more than 36 feet — I tend to think in terms of diesel power. As motorhomes reach those sizes, they need more torque or grunt than gas engines can achieve.

The biggest advantages of diesels are their power, along with better mileage and less complexity. The disadvantage comes when repair time rolls around. Anything diesel is heavier and costs much more to repair. Some folks also have very little tolerance for the smell of diesel fuel, and filling at truck stops virtually guarantees diesel on the carpet. The normal life expectancy of diesel engines is 500,000 miles, an irrelevance for most owners given how long motorhomes are kept before being traded.

The advantage of gas engines is their much lower cost compared to diesels — they average $20,000 less. The industry says life expectancy is about 200,000 miles, and I think their longevity and reliability improved dramatically starting in about the year 2000. At times it is easier to find gasoline than it is diesel fuel, although this is much less a problem than in years past.

Buy diesel if you need the power. I question that diesel power is ever necessary in any class C motorhome, where the current lineup of GM and Ford power trains do very well. I also see little advantage for diesel in shorter class A coaches, unless cargo carrying capacity (CCC) is very large. I think many consumers have gone overboard with the weight issue and seldom use the thousands of pounds of cargo carrying capacity they demand.

Snob appeal? Diesel wins, hands down!

Valve extenders — getting air in your tires with ease

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By Dicor Corporation

We want to tell you about a small accessory that can make a big difference in creating a safer and more pleasant RV experience.

Maintaining proper tire inflation is a critical area of both safety and economics for the RVer. Both underinflated and overinflated tires can affect functions like handling and braking, making the motorhome more hazardous to drive. Most disturbingly, improper inflation could produce a sudden blowout that might cause a catastrophic accident. Excessively uneven treadwear and poorer gas mileage are some of the detrimental economic effects.

As well, tires will lose air over time even without a puncture. Bridgestone-Firestone estimates a tire will lose 1 to 2 psi a month simply by diffusion through the sidewalls. And here’s the big thing —Bridgestone-Firestone also estimates that 40 percent of RVers only check their pressure once every six months.

It’s safe to say that most RVers don’t keep tabs on their tire pressure anywhere close to the recommended checks by manufacturers, which could be as often as once a day when on a long driving trip.

A big part of the problem is inaccessible valve stems that make checking tire pressure a chore. If your motorhome has wheel covers or simulators, the factory stems become very difficult to reach. And, as far as checking the pressure on the inside tire on dual wheels, forget that!

Here’s where a pack of valve stem extenders provide an easier way to check inflation, starting with the rear dual wheels. The up-to-eight-inch-long valve extenders can loop from the inside tire out through the hand hole of the exterior wheel, allowing you to check pressure of both tires from the outside of the exterior wheels.

For front wheels with covers or simulators, a shorter, all-metal, angled valve extender enables the inflation valve to peek out from the hand holes for easy access. This makes checking tire pressure relatively quick and easy, so you are more likely to check your tires more often. The result: a safer RV experience, with less wear and tear on your tires and on you!

The valve extender “hoses” can be made out of different materials and have different burst strength ratings. We suggest using quality stainless steel braided, high pressure, hydraulic hoses. These have a slim profile and won’t kink and form weak spots like rubber will. They are so flexible, in fact, that you can practically tie them in a knot. Whatever you choose at whatever the cost, it is a small price to pay for the convenience and peace of mind this kind of product can provide, which makes the whole RV experience just that much better.

Editor’s note: RVtravel.com tire expert Roger Marble adds a couple of thoughts to Dicor’s piece. First, Marble says, pay particular attention that whatever valve extender hoses you use have the ability to ensure that the “free” ends of the hoses are firmly tied down — as shown in the photo above. The last thing you want is for one of these to be flapping around loose as you head down the highway.

Many extension kits require removing the lug nuts for installation. It’s critical that RV lug nuts be torqued down to specifications — and not many RVers have the equipment to do that. Hence, Roger recommends these extender kits which don’t require taking off lug nuts. All three are available on Amazon:

For 16″ – 19.5″ wheels
For 22″ steel wheels
For 22″ aluminum wheels.

Mounting a spare tire carrier on your RV

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By Russ and Tiña De Maris

Having a spare tire with your RV is a great thing — provided the tire is small enough for you to safely handle. But not every RV comes with a place to carry a spare —apparently some manufacturers think you should sleep with your spare. We’ve been asked, “How do you mount a spare tire carrier?” For RVs with a 4-inch-square tube bumper (which means a whole lot of travel trailers and fifth wheels) the project is an easy one. We did it in less than 10 minutes — that means the average RVer could probably do it in five!

Many RV dealers and part stores can sell you a new bumper-mounted carrier. For a quite a few dollars less, we picked one up from a surplus RV peddler on eBay for less than $23 (including shipping). This typical carrier is formed from square metal tube and flat plate, and mounts on your bumper with u-bolts.

We had a completely “clear” bumper, free of other objects, so we were wide open on choices of where to mount the carrier. Keeping the spare out of the way of taillights is obvious, but there are other considerations. We plan on mounting our wind-powered electrical generator tower on the right side of the bumper soon. And maybe this is just psychological, but keeping the tire away from the left side of the bumper has more appeal to our family tire changer — something about staying as far away from speeding semitrucks while parked in the break-down lane enters into the picture. Whaddayaknow — We wound up with our carrier dead center on the bumper.

Set the tire carrier on location on the bumper. Ours had a welded tab that sits atop of the square bumper, which made installation much easier. Slip one of the u-bolts through from the back of the bumper and through the mounting plate. Be sure to install a lock washer before sticking the nut in place, as vibration will surely loosen that nut without it. We found it easy with one nut in place to then install the second u-bolt, then the balance of the lock washers and nuts. Torque all the mounting nuts firmly.

For our carrier, two studs hold the tire on board. Place the spare tire with the inside of the wheel toward the trailer, running the top stud through a stud hole in the rim. Lock down the mounting nut — the lower stud of the carrier should be roughly centered in the center hole of the rim. Place the holding plate between the rim and lug nut over the stud, and after a good torque, your spare tire should stick with you through thick, thin, and potholed roads.

[Editor: Similar bumper-mounted tire carriers are available at Amazon.]

photos, R&T DeMaris

It’s in the bag: One with a few basic tools can handle most simple fix-it jobs

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It’s in the bag: One with a few basic tools can handle most simple fix-it jobs

By Bob Difley

You can make life a bit easier by keeping some standard fix-it tools in a canvas bag which you keep in a handy and easily accessible location inside your rig.

When you need to do a simple repair or task it is easier to grab the bag than have to find the individual tools among many others in your outside tool compartment.

Include in the bag:

•  screwdriver with two sizes of interchangeable Phillips and slot heads,
•  wrench set with both standard and millimeter sizes,
•  adjustable wrench,
•  compact flashlight,
•  duct tape,
•  Allen wrench set,
•  rag,
•  WD40,
•  knife,
•  sandpaper or file,
•  small scissors, and
•  disposable latex gloves.

With this small set of tools — and some others you find useful — you can perform the majority of small jobs without it becoming a major production.

Got the tools, but no bag? Make a quick trip down to your nearby Harbor Freight Tools — they have a variety of tool bags you can pick up inexpensively. Missing some of these tools? The same outfit can set you up with nearly everything on the list. (Editor: There are lots of tool organizer tote bags around $20 on Amazon.)

You can find Bob Difley’s RVing e-books on Amazon Kindle.

photo: hnnbz on flickr.com

Choose the right vacuum cleaner to keep your rig tidy

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By Greg Illes

Whether we live in stick-and-brick houses or in our cherished RVs, the grime of daily living always seems to intrude. Dust, dirt and debris find their way into our pristine living quarters and suddenly— we just can’t stand it anymore.

Break out the broom, hand brush, damp rag or the vacuum cleaner.

At home, a vacuum simply means a little extra noise for awhile. But in the RV, a vacuum is a major strategic appliance decision. AC or DC? Hand-held or wand-style? Built-in or closet storage?

Until fairly recently, a decent vacuum cleaner meant a 120V AC model, which also meant that it required generator or shore power to operate. This is not a big problem if you’re hooked up in an RV park, but in the boonies it’s anathema to run a generator, and most boondockers avoid generator usage as much as possible.

Historically, non-AC vacuums meant rechargeable battery vacuums, with their wimpy suction and short endurance. But in 2015, we are not only in the lithium battery era, we are solidly into the high-voltage lithium battery era. The anemic rechargeable vacuums of yesterday have given way to some truly surprising appliances now available.

My personal story is a perfect example of this evolution. After boondocking for several years with our built-in vacuum, we found that we seldom wanted to fire up the generator to provide the 1,300 watts of power that it needed — so we looked for a suitable replacement in the rechargeable domain. When I searched the market for a useful unit, I found that the old 12V-to-15V battery-powered vacuums have been totally eclipsed by 24V, 28V, and even 36V units. Based on “okay” results with a 15V hand-held in my garage, I ordered a wand-style 24V vacuum.

To put it mildly, I was astonished. The 24V vac was a Black & Decker BDH2400FH (available on Amazon), and it was everything and anything that my 27-foot class A needed to keep ship-shape (they have a 36V model too). The suction was equal to 80 percent or more of my built-in, and the endurance was well over what was needed for a full cleaning of the floor and the most-dirty surfaces. It even has a carpet-roller head attachment.

We had already been happily using a Dyson DC44 (22V) in our house for small cleanup jobs, and it too was very well suited to the RV environment. Its battery, for example, is removable, which means it can be recharged without lugging the vacuum over to a suitable area in the RV. Eventually, we installed the 24V vac in our house and slid the Dyson into a convenient corner in the RV.

Recharging these units is pretty simple. They all come with a standard 120V AC charging module, so you can simply use a portable inverter and plug it into a 12V socket, then plug the vacuum charger into the inverter. Of course, if your RV already has a built-in inverter, you can use that. For the technically adroit, there are 12V-to-??V converters available that have interchangeable tips. These can be used directly in any 12V socket. And, with the newer lithium technologies, it takes only a couple of hours to fully charge the vacuum’s battery.

The Black & Decker and Dyson models appear to be the most RV-friendly, based on their form factors and ease of recharge. But, of course, there are many other models as well. A little research can turn up some pleasant surprises, and the market is continuously developing. (Editor: There are lots of rechargeable vacuum cleaners available on Amazon.)

Greg Illes is a retired systems engineer who loves thinking up RV upgrades and modifications. When he’s not working on his motorhome, he’s traveling in it. You can follow his blog at www.divver-city.com/blog.

Displaying your travel collection — in a unique way

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By Jim Twamley

RVers love to collect things. The problem is that some collectables are too large or heavy to carry along with you in the confines of your rig.

I ran across an RVer who loves to collect stickers from the places he’s been and at the events he’s attended. As you can see, he can enjoy them as he lounges outside under his awning enjoying a NASCAR race.

But what happens if you trade-out RVs? He’s got it figured out. The stickers are mounted on Plexiglas so that he can transfer them to his next RV without much effort. In fact, he’s already transferred them from his old rig. Here’s a problem, though — he may need to buy a longer rig with more storage bays if he keeps this up.

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