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Is your fire extinguisher past its “pull date”?

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By Bob Difley

One of the most overlooked items you can find in a rig is the fire extinguisher. Most of us will never need one in a lifetime of RVing, but if you were to have a fire would yours work?

Unless you’re really organized, you probably don’t have a clue when your extinguisher needs to be replaced or recharged. If you inadvertently skip right by the date, if and when you need to put out a galley fire and it doesn’t work you could lose your whole rig — or worse.

Check the date now on the extinguisher itself. Replace or recharge if necessary. If not due yet, enter the upcoming date with audible and visual alerts on your phone or tablet’s calendar, write it in large red letters on your wall calendar, and appoint your spouse as equally responsible for remembering the date. To do otherwise could be foolhardy — and even deadly.

photo: Dmsar on wikimedia.org

You can find Bob Difley’s RVing e-books on Amazon Kindle.

Trying to save money? Read the fine print!

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Trying to save money? Read the fine print!

By Russ and Tiña De Maris

It seems a common thread among RVers is that of trying to get the most mileage out of the travel dollar. Whether shopping for cheap gas prices or the lowest rates on RV parks, you can count on RVers to do their shopping. But be careful, not every deal is a great deal — slow down and read the fine print.

This is certainly true for a woman trying to make reservations for Yosemite National Park. Not an RVer, the woman was shopping for accommodations in the park’s lodge, and she turned to an Internet site called NationalParkReservations.com. Sounds about right, huh?

She was good and happy to book 10 rooms for her extended family. She was completely turned on her head when her credit card was dinged — not only for the rooms — but an additional $758 charge for the reservation fees.

Turns out, the Internet site isn’t affiliated with the U.S. Government or the Park Service. But when we visited the website, front and center of the home page is the disclaimer:

“National Park Reservations is a reservation service providing lodging and activity reservations both inside as well as in the gateway communities of the United States National Parks. National Park Reservations is not an authorized concessionaire of any National Park nor are we in any way affiliated with the National Park Service of the Federal Government …. For this service, National Park Reservations charges a 10% non-refundable reservation fee based on the total dollar amount of reservations made. This reservation fee will be billed separately to your credit card and will be billed under the memo ‘National Park Reservations’.”

Call it a $758 reading lesson.

The reading lessons also apply when shopping for other RV stuff. The Internet auction service eBay is a great resource for finding hard-to-find RV parts and supplies. But always, always read the advertisement closely, and pay attention to shipping fees. If you’re not completely certain of what the seller is offering, don’t plunk down your money — send the seller a request for more information.

Pay close attention. Folks like these may not be illegal, but they’ll be happy to take your money and run.

photo: CJ Sorg on flickr.com

Selling your rig on Craiglist? Avoid these seller mistakes

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By Steve Savage, Mobility RV Service

I am a regular Craigslist reader. I check the ads offering RVs and RV accessories for sale nearly every day. At times I have seen ads posted for months — even years. That must be frustrating for the owners. If you find yourself in this position, the single thought I would share is this: You can sell anything if the price is low enough. When something doesn’t sell, it means you are trying to get more than buyers are willing to pay. It seems to me that should be obvious. The question is, why don’t folks get it?

Common mistake #1: An owner thinking what they have is worth much more than the market will pay, simply because something is in good condition. Here is an example. A local owner is advertising a very clean tag-along for almost double what it normally would bring. This trailer is 16 years old, has no slideout, and was a very basic model when it was new. Now, unless the owner is extremely lucky and finds someone who knows little about RVs, no one is going to pay the asking price. Because something is clean and everything works does not justify an extreme asking price. Old RVs are simply old RVs. Clean is better, but age rules!

Common mistake #2: Not understanding how to use NADA pricing or having an idea of how much basic repairs cost. Here’s an example of that. An owner lists a travel trailer. A graphic taken from the NADA listing is included in the ad, as is commonly the case in Craigslist ads. In the ad, the owner has included the base price and then added in the value of all the standard components as though they were options.

Standard components — things like refrigerators, air conditioners and so forth — are included in the base price, as clearly stated on the NADA site. They are not options. Adding those features in increases the asking price by $1,600. Now, in addition to the elevated price, the ad notes this trailer requires multiple repairs before it is even usable — a roof leak being one of them.

Will this trailer sell at the owner’s asking price? It seems doubtful. He is trying to get well above book value for an RV that will require something in the area of $1,500 to $2,000 worth of repairs, depending on who does the work. In my opinion, the asking price is not realistic, and given the ad says the asking price is “firm,” I have a hunch the owner will wait a long time to find a buyer. If someone is capable of making the necessary repairs in good fashion and shops the parts online, I think this no-slide, not-very-clean-looking trailer should bring half of the owner’s asking price.

The thought I would leave you with is this. Yes, you can ask for much more than your RV is worth to most people, but if you do, you must be willing to sit on it until just the right buyer comes along. And each month it ages, it becomes worth even less.

Traveling to Canada? Here’s how to get Internet connected

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Traveling to Canada? Here’s how to get Internet connected


By Greg Illes

When we began planning our Canada-Alaska trip, we knew we’d need to have Internet now and then — checking emails, paying occasional bills, tending to the various surprises that can come up when leaving home for many weeks.

 

Normally when we travel we use our cell phones and a 3G/4G hotspot, pay Verizon some extra bucks and we’re able to get Internet anywhere there’s cell coverage. But for reasons I have yet to understand, Verizon wants 100 times more money for the same service in Canada. Yes, that’s correct. Instead of $20 for a GB of data, Verizon charges $2 per megabyte of data. Simple arithmetic, that’s $2,000 per GB. No exceptions, take it or leave it. We left it.

So what about Canadian data/hotspot plans? All of the checking that I could do from the U.S. seemed to indicate that only Canadians can have Canadian data plans. I simply couldn’t get any other answer (but see below)

Okay, what about public Wi-Fi? Aha!!! We were assured by many people “in the know,” Canadians and travelers both, that public Wi-Fi was very common in Canada — at restaurants, libraries, visitor’s centers and so on. With nothing else to go on, we launched our trip with the intention of using only public Wi-Fi while in Canada.

Well, it worked okay at visitor’s centers for sure — when we could find them, when they were open. There weren’t many, and some closed at 4 p.m. or 5 p.m., often before we arrived at the location. We found one library in the far north — they had a one-hour limit per day. Eventually, we gave up on the “public” part except for the rare visitor’s center. I think that if you’re wandering around in Vancouver or Prince George, public Wi-Fi might be pretty usable. But out in the remote areas where we like to travel, it’s as rare as hen’s teeth.

Private Wi-Fi was a dismal disappointment. RV park managers generally have no clue about electronics or Internet details. They install a router, maybe put a high-gain antenna on it (maybe), done. RV park Wi-Fi just universally sucks. Only on rare occasions were we even able to do Web browsing. Usually it was email, and headers and text only. Horrible. And some we paid extra for, as well!

So, after going from Canada to Alaska and enjoying our U.S. 3G/4G hotspot again, I vowed to try to find a solution after we went back into Canada on our return home. It took several visits, many questions, and some phone calls, but eventually I did find the magic formula. Turns out, nonresidents can have cell plans in Canada, but there are some limitations and some caveats.

First, what didn’t work: Telus and Bell had deal-breakers of one kind or another. For example, Telus had an upper data limit of 1GB for only $30, but additional data overages were charged at $500 per GB. No expansion possible. Another thing that doesn’t work is trying to pay for cell service in Canada with a U.S. credit card. Sorry, no can do.

The SOLUTION: Virgin Mobile has a prepaid plan for either 1GB or 2GB, $60 or $70 (Canadian) respectively, with an overage charge of $20/GB. So how to pay for it? They won’t take a U.S. credit card, remember. I had to buy a “top-up” code, available from any Canada Post office (and other places, too). I also had to buy a SIM card, and I had to have a compatible device (smartphone or hotspot) to plug it in.

Then it gets really simple: I called Virgin, asked to activate a new account, and gave them the SIM card number. That got the device activated a couple of hours later. Then I called Virgin again and gave them the top-up code. Presto: About 15 minutes later I had 3G/4G data for all my computers, tablets and phones.

I did decide to buy a Virgin-compatible device. They didn’t have hotspots at the store, so I bought a low-end smartphone for $150 (Canadian). I used the hotspot feature of the smartphone to feed data to my other devices. And because it’s a smartphone, I downloaded some of my frequently used apps to use them direct.

It’s possible to use a compatible or unlocked device and just plug in the SIM card — but I was not sure about the status of the phones or hotspot that we already owned, so I elected to spend the extra bucks. Total cost for a month’s data, about US$180.

This isn’t a solution that’s very attractive if you’re only visiting Canada for a week or two (too expensive). But if it’s a month or longer, it can make sense. It did for us, and we have a data connection anywhere there’s a cell signal. Not that THAT is all that common way up north, but it’s a lot better than nothing.

Greg Illes is a retired systems engineer who loves thinking up RV upgrades and modifications. When he’s not working on his motorhome, he’s traveling in it. You can follow his blog at www.divver-city.com/blog.

Battery maintenance reminders

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Battery maintenance reminders

By Russ and Tiña De Maris

When your RV is “in storage,” and not in harness on the open road, don’t neglect the battery. A depleted battery not kept at full charge is one that can more easily freeze. If it does, you can expect the expansion to crack the case and ruin the battery. A simple maintenance charger that “floats” at full charge isn’t costly and will save big money.

Power consumption while your rig is in storage can create problems, too. Yes, you shut everything off, but there are loads that you may not have thought of. LP gas and carbon monoxide detectors that are hard-wired to the 12-volt system never shut off. One way to deal with this is to either disconnect the battery leads when not using the rig, or by pulling the fuse that sends power to these detectors. If you choose the latter route, put a BIG sign up in the rig, reminding yourself to plug the fuse back in before heading out on the road. And when you pull that fuse, shut off the LP supply valve for a little more peace of mind.

While you don’t need to be compulsive about it, keeping your batteries clean will keep them happier. That little bit of dirt across the top of the battery case can actually conduct electricity in the presence of moisture. A slight, but real, discharge of juice can occur. And keep those terminals clean — a little crud, corruption or corrosion will impede the flow of those healthy electrons and can lead to problems.

Fill ‘er up! ALWAYS keep the top plates of “flooded” batteries covered with electrolyte. This means refilling to the “split ring” or about a half-inch above the separators. ONLY USE distilled water, NEVER tap water. Minerals in tap water can cause real issues for batteries. On the other hand, don’t overfill your cells.

Cell phone signal sketchy? Wait for sunset

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Cell phone signal sketchy? Wait for sunset

By Dave Helgeson

Are you a baby boomer? Do you remember the Bell Telephone television commercial about Uncle Ralph calling long distance from California and phone calls being cheaper after 8:00 p.m.? Keep that in mind next time you arrive at a remote campsite and your cell phone shows “No Service,” or is receiving such a poor signal that you cannot complete a call.

Many times that unusable signal becomes usable once the sun sets. Why? Electromagnetic interference from the sun distorts and degenerates radio signals of all types during the day. If you listen to a radio in your RV or tow vehicle at night you have most likely experienced this phenomenon — being able to listen to distant radio stations (especially AM stations) hundreds or in some cases thousands of miles away. Turn on the radio the next morning and you receive nothing but static.

The same thing holds true, although to a lesser extent, with cell phones. I have arrived at many remote boondocking locations and found my cell phone without a usable signal. Checking my phone once the sun has set shows a much stronger signal and the ability to complete a call or send a text.

So the next time you find yourself setting up camp during the day without a usable cell signal, remember “Uncle Ralph” and try again while sitting around the evening campfire. It just may allow you to place that needed call.

A simple solution to that rockin’ trailer

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By Jim Twamley

If you have a travel trailer or fifth wheel you know about rock-n-roll — and I’m not referring to music. When you step onto your RV steps do they sink a little, causing the whole rig to move? You can brace the steps but that won’t solve the problem, especially in long rigs. You’ll still get movement whenever you walk around inside.

You could purchase those dandy braces that look like an erector set when you’re done, and they do help. Or, you could install two additional scissor jacks in front of the tires. This gives you a total of six stability points (seven if you have a fiver kingpin stabilizer).

I got this idea from an RVer who installed these on his Luxury by Design fiver. They really do add considerable stability to your rig. Now you can dance the night away without squeaking and creaking.

[Editor’s note: Jim’s thoughts aren’t all that expensive, either. For a little more than $40 plus shipping for 5,000 lbs. lifting capacity per jack, or about $75 with free shipping if you have Prime for 6,500 lbs. lifting capacity per jack, you can pick up a pair of stabilizer jacks from Amazon. These both provide up to 24″ extended height. They can be installed by an RVer with a small amount of do-it-yourselfer skill and some rudimentary tools.]

One way to save your motorhome’s rear end

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By Ron Jones

Screen Shot 2016-04-07 at 6.27.30 PMDragging the rear end of your motorhome, especially while flat-towing a car with the tow bar attached, is not good. This is a common way to cut or damage your safety cables. Plus the noise sounds like you are ripping apart the rear end of your coach.

Crossing depressions or ditches (very common in parking lots, fuel stops, or cross streets) is a prime time for you to drag the rear of your coach, especially if you are using a drop receiver. Sometimes the depression does not look too bad but a history of hitch marks in the pavement provides evidence that you, too, will likely drag. If possible, go around the block one time to take a closer look. We once entered a parking lot and were forced to exit onto a different street. It was nearly a disaster with its steep ramp.
Screen Shot 2016-04-07 at 6.32.28 PMWatch the traffic entering/exiting. If you observe vehicles going up or down, like the one in these photos, you will likely drag. After all, the distance from your rear wheels to the rear end of your RV may be 4-5 times longer than that of a car. Therefore, if you observe a car dragging (or almost), it’s practically guaranteed that you will, too.
Screen Shot 2016-04-07 at 6.32.45 PM
We suggest two driving maneuvers you can easily use to prevent this from happening.

Here’s the first trick… Approach the depression as straight as possible and keep your drive wheels pointing straight forward until both front wheels are down into the depression as far as possible. Then stop.

Turn your wheels as far as possible before moving the coach (no creeping while turning). Then creep out slowly—dead slow—less than idle speed!

Following this procedure will cause the rear wheels to pass through the lowest part of the depression at slightly different times. This, in turn, causes the rear end of the coach (where your hitch is located) to literally stay up, at a higher point above the pavement, and the result is no dragging. The one major negative in doing this procedure is that you need lots of time and little cross traffic. You literally have to put the front end of your coach into the lane of cross traffic, then stop, then maneuver out very slowly. You will need ample time as this must be done slowly.

Here’s the second trick… If possible, enter and cross the depression at an angle to make the turn into traffic. Doing this creates the effect of the rear wheels entering the depression at different times. If you have the space available, this is the easier of the two maneuvers.

As we always suggest in our driving seminar, find an empty lot and practice these driving procedures before you have to use them. The classic church parking lot at 10:00 a.m. on a Tuesday morning is a great place to practice or an empty mall or vacant store lot will also do nicely.

This suggestion is one of the more than 500 in All the Stuff You Need to Know About RVing by Ronald Jones and Robert Lowe.

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Portable generator is perfect for RVing

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Quiet, compact, and lightweight, the Powerhouse 2000Wi inverter generator provides clean, portable power that’s perfect for campground, tailgate party or any outdoor activity where you need your own electrical supply. With a maximum output of 2000 watts, the 2000Wi produces enough power to run several appliances at once.

The 2000Wi’s high-efficiency combustion system produces exceptionally low emissions. A recoil start makes it easy to power up and a convenient fuel primer bulb and manual choke ensures a fast start. Choose the variable speed setting to reduce engine noise and save on fuel costs or set it to constant speed when 100 percent full power is needed. Other features include an internal circuit breaker, emergency stop control, spark arrester and a convenient carry handle.

This inverter generator has one 5-20R 20-amp duplex receptacle. It’s backed by a one-year consumer warranty and a 6-month commercial warranty, and it’s EPA, CARB, and CSA compliant for use across North America.

Inverter Generator Technology
Where conventional generators produce a single square wave of AC power for every engine rotation, an inverter generator produces a clean sine wave just like that power from your home outlets with hundreds of overlapping AC sine waves per engine rotation that results in more electrical power produced from each rotation. The electronic processor in the inverter module “converts” three-phase, high-frequency AC power from the alternator into DC power, which is then changed by the inverter module to a clean and stable 120-volt, 60-hertz AC power signal. The technology programmed into the inverter allows it to control all functions of the generator for stable, consistent, clean power.

This clean sine wave power allows the generator to be used with any and all computer and electronic based appliances in today’s homes, businesses, construction sites, and outdoor recreation. An added benefit is the ability of these generators to produce 120-volt, 60-hertz current at various engine speeds, thus saving fuel running at slower speeds and low load conditions but with the power for full speed and output when needed. The generator is available at Amazon.com.

SOURCE: Powerhouse news release.

How to care for an RV awning

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By Chris Dougherty

An RV awning is a great addition to any RV and with a little care it will provide many years of service.There are many different kinds of awnings. They range from the “bag” style manual awning, which is popular for pop-up campers, all the way up to fully automated types. The ope

ration of all the various types vary, and careful attention to the manufacturers instructions will help ensure problem free enjoyment of your awning.

Most awning fabrics fall into one of two categories: Vinyl and Acrylic (i.e. Sunbrella). Some awnings have material all the way up to the awning rail on the side of the RV, and some have a metal weather guard, which wraps around the awning when stowed for travel.

Especially in the spring when the awning is opened for the first time, be sure to inspect and clean the awning thoroughly. The hardware can be cleaned using mild soap and water, or whatever “RV Wash” detergent you normally use on your RV. If the fabric is pretty clean, this may suffice for cleaning it. If, however, the fabric is more heavily soiled, there are commercially available awning fabric cleaning solutions available to help. In any case, be sure to carefully follow the awning and cleaner manufacturers’ directions for care and cleaning.

The awning hardware generally consists of the roller tube which the awning rolls up on, the springs and lock assembly contained within the awning tube, and the arms, which generally extend for adjustment and hold the awning taught. Again, there are numerous types of awnings, so your hardware may differ from what I discuss here. . .check you manual!

CARING FOR THE HARDWARE is pretty simple. Basically keeping it clean, and inspecting it for wear is the most you’ll ever have to do. Some issues I have seen include rusted adjustment knobs, broken springs and/or lock assemblies, and difficulty opening or closing due to dirt. The upper arm adjustment knobs should be worked and lubricated regularly to ensure proper operation. Once they seize with rust, they can be difficult to replace. Use an anti-rust lube like PB Blaster or WD-40. The springs and locking assemblies can occasionally fail, but there’s not much that can be done to prevent this other than cleaning, and a shot of lubricant.

One of the biggest issues is pooling of water and/or wind damage. When using your awning, THINK! It’s common sense, really, but watch the weather, and set the awning up appropriately. Make sure the awning is tilted enough for rain and/or air conditioner condensate water to run off, and not pool on the awning. Water weighs 8.33 pounds per gallon. . . that a lot of stress on the awning assembly. Also, if there is going to be a breeze, make sure the awning is secured, or stow it until the weather passes.

Just a few minutes of attention will ensure your RV awning works great when you want it.

Chris Dougherty is a certified RV technician who lives in Springfield, Mass., when he isn’t traveling with his wife Karen in their travel trailer.

Tips for women about self-protection

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By Adrienne Kristine

Women sometimes talk about using their intuition and trusting their instincts to protect themselves when they travel alone. One of the reasons I drive a motorhome is to avoid having to go out to go in. When I stop, I leave the keys in the ignition and check the surrounding area before I leave the RV. If I see or feel the slightest threat, I can drive away.

Everyone is familiar with the phrase, “If it sounds too good to be true, it probably is.” Women sometimes forget their gift of intuition and let themselves fall into the trap of ignoring a potential problem until it’s too late.

Here are my basic rules of self-protection based on 25 years of teaching classes on the subject to women from 8 years old to 66.

The primary factor in self-protection (not self-defense) is awareness.

Preparation is key.
The first preparation is mental: WHAT IF?
The second is emotional: WHY ME?
The third is psychological: WILL I?
The fourth is physical: CAN I?

If you choose to turn and walk away, be aware of your surroundings and means of escape.

If there is no escape and you are forced to defend yourself, remember as much as you can about the environment. Place your back against a wall if you can.

Maintain eye contact (you may be required to identify the perpetrator). The first person to look away usually loses.

The first assertion is verbal: distraction, diversion, humor, confusion, explanation, etc.

If assertion is unsuccessful, use aggression.
First, escalate the verbal aggression by raising the voice.
Second, invade the social space of the other(s).

At no time should the other person(s) be touched in any way — yet. Physical aggression on your part will be met by reciprocal action.

If you have tried all the above, you must be prepared to defend yourself. You will probably injure the other person or persons and may injure yourself in order to avoid possible life-threatening damage.

If the other person(s) are prepared to injure you, they have little to lose.

NEVER underestimate your opponent(s).

After any traumatic encounter such as that described above, seek a competent therapist or support group. This is also part of self-protection.

RV tires: How old is too old?

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By Russ and Tiña De Maris

Screen Shot 2016-04-07 at 11.04.00 AMA man goes into an RV dealership, interested in a seven year-old motorhome with 10,000 miles on the odometer. The tires on the rig have plenty of tread left on them, but on learning that they’re the original tires, he wonders about them being too old to be safe. The salesman tells the customer that worrying about the age of the tire is nothing more than buying into a myth. Should the customer walk away?

Tires on your RV are a critical issue: Blow a tire, lose control, maybe lose your life. Being concerned with tire safety is only right. So what about it? Does the age of a tire have any bearing on tire safety?

Absolutely, say tire and highway safety experts. Here’s why: Over time, a tire’s structural integrity really can degrade. When it happens, the tire can fail, leaving you in a bad situation. While government experts estimate that “only” about 400 fatalities per year can be attributed to tire failure, tell that to the loved ones of someone who died because of a catastrophic tire failure. Not withstanding, when a tire blows, the damage caused to the RV can cost plenty – ask us, we’ve been there.

Time is not the only factor in tire “aging.” The ambient temperature also plays a role. The warmer the climate, the faster the tire will age. Expose the tires to UV radiation, common in sunlight, and they’ll age faster. RV tires can be especially susceptible to rapid aging because they’re more prone to sitting still for longer periods of time. When a tire rolls down the highway, chemicals in the tire that help to preserve it are distributed. Parked and not used, those chemicals don’t get a chance to help with tire longevity.

Still tread left, but UV killed this tire It’s the latter issue that can really come to the fore with RV tires. A seven-year old RV with 10,000 miles on the clock translates to what? Driving an average of a little over 1,400 miles per year. Lots of tread left, yes, but is the tire safe? The dealer in the true-to-life scenario above says, ‘Quit worrying!’ Not so, says the National Highway Transportation Safety Administration (NHTSA). Speaking of tires on RVs or collector cars as an example, the agency notes, “In those instances, the structural integrity of the tire may be weakened – and potentially hazardous – even though the tire still has a great deal of remaining tread.”

Screen Shot 2016-04-07 at 6.35.31 PMIs there any way to tell if an older tire is still safe for use? There aren’t any industry-accepted standardized tests to tell. For the average consumer, looking at a tire won’t really tell you – even tire experts can’t really tell. While the NHTSA suggests having tires inspected once at they five-year mark, and every year thereafter, if even the experts aren’t sure, how can you be safe? And how do you know how old your tires are anyway?

Your tires’ “birthdates” can be determined by looking for the “DOT code.” Printed on a tire sidewall, the code begins with the letters DOT. The last four digits in that string of numbers are significant. The first two of the four digits are the week the tire was made, the last two digits represent the year. So a code ending in 2509 means the tire was made in the 25th week of 2009. You may have to look on the ‘axle side’ of the tire to find the DOT code – they don’t make it easy.

How old is too old? That’s the big – and controversial – question. Nobody really wants to stick their neck out and say what’s safe, and what’s not. Some tire manufacturers will tell you their tires should be good for ten years. But ten years under what conditions? Cold weather? Hot weather? Driven 50 miles a week? Standing still under your motorhome or travel trailer for months at a time?

A ‘rule of thumb’ adopted by some in the RV world says replace your tires when they hit six or seven years old. In parts of Europe and Asia, tire manufacturers recommend replacement of tires every five years. Why not in the U.S.? It’s a mystery – at least to the consumer.

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