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Renting an RV? Questions to ask first 

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By RVTravel Staff

Not everyone owns an RV — perhaps you’re “sticking your toe in the water” first to determine whether or not to jump in. Here are some questions you should ask before renting a recreational vehicle, as reported in Arthur Frommer’s Budget Travel magazine (along with some suggestions of our own):

1. Which type of RV is right for me? Motorhome? Trailer?

2. How many people will it sleep?

2. Do I need a special license or extra insurance?

4. Where do I camp and how much does it cost?

5. How much does it cost for the RV?

6. Am I too old or too young for this?

7. When and where do we eat?

8. Where should we go?

9. Which season is best? (Rental bargains await outside of the prime travel season.)

10. What kitchen items, linens and other basic necessities will an RV rental company furnish?

Avoid tow bar tragedy

By Russ and Tiña De Maris

Imagine looking in the rearview mirror and seeing traffic behind you scattering in every direction – trying to avoid your toad. It could be every motorhome owner’s nightmare: A runaway towed car because of a fault with a tow bar. Make sure this stays a nightmare and not a real-life scenario; keep up with tow bar maintenance.

What could cause a tow bar failure? Most often abuse, and sometimes age. Folks with the tow bar industry say that the most common form of tow bar abuse is backing up, a definite no-no, or because of jackknifing the toad when a panic stop is made and there’s insufficient or non-existent towed vehicle braking. The stresses placed on tow bar components because of these actions can severely compromise or kill your tow bar system. NEVER back your toad vehicle with the tow bar, it’s as simple as that.

But what about age? At what age should you consider retiring your tow bar? Like the joke among us old folk runs, it’s not so much the age, it’s the mileage. Your tow bar is a lot like you: Every mile you put on the tow bar begins to slowly wear away at the joints. There’s not any real practical “joint replacement” operation available for tow bars. At least once a year, experts recommend, push and pull on your tow bar, feel for looseness. If it feels loose, have it inspected by a professional.

What applies to the tow bar also applies to that all-important connecting surface to the vehicle — the baseplate. Here’s an inspection habit for you: Every time you hitch up the toad car, grab those connecting points. Pull up and push down. You should feel “give” in the toad car’s suspension system, yes, but never should you feel looseness or “give” in the baseplate or connecting bracket. If you feel any give or looseness, towing can put you at big risk. Don’t tow — get it fixed.

Check out your tow bar manual for lubrication instructions and follow the suggestions given. Tow bars and accessories need to be cleaned and lubed with regularity. And when you’re not using the tow bar, store it away from the weather. Rust can cause you grief over the long haul.

Need a new tow bar system? Have a reputable shop do the install, and ask them to walk you through the hitch-up procedure. Smart RVers will want to use their phone or video equipment to make a record of how it’s done for future reference. Keep a copy of the owner’s manual in the rig and in easy reach.

photo: Jim Twamley

Tooling around — with a truck toolbox

By Jim Twamley

I pulled my 5th wheel next to my assigned RV site in the pouring rain. I had a hard time backing into a tight spot at an RV park in Arizona. I wasn’t expecting rain — after all, it was Arizona — so I was glad to have all the tools I would need for a quick set up close at hand.

For a travel trailer or a 5er you need a stabilizer crank, some boards for the landing gear, tire chocks, water hose, channel lock pliers, electric cord adapter, water pressure gauge, and a multi-meter (to check out the utilities). I kept all these things in my handy locking truck-bed toolbox.

These toolboxes come in various sizes and are made from aluminum, steel or plastic. They can insert in your truck bed with wings that hold the box up off your truck deck so you can slide lumber and other long items under it. You can also get boxes that rest on the bottom of the truck bed without wings. Downdraft off the face of a 5th wheel trailer will blow stuff out of your truck bed if it isn’t secured, and these toolboxes keep your stuff safe and dry.

Clearance is an important consideration if you’re pulling a 5th wheel because the thickness of the toolbox could interfere with the operation of the king-pin pivot overhang. So before you purchase one, make sure you have adequate clearance tolerances. I enjoyed my truck-bed toolbox because it held a large amount of gear and it locked so I didn’t have to worry about people walking off with my stuff. Since I used the truck as a touring vehicle, I liked having my tools with me.

My biggest problem was keeping it clean and organized. Most of them come with sliding trays that will help you with this task. Even trucks with modified tow bodies employ these boxes. They are a “must have” if you pull a travel trailer or 5th wheel. Some folks even mount them on the back of trailers.

Replacing RV door glass — Don’t lose your temper!

By Russ and Tiña De Maris

Strange things happen along the road. A flying baseball, rock or tree limb can make a mess of that “relight,” or window, in your RV entry door. If your glass is a mess (or you get to that point down the road), it’s sometimes tempting to look at the cheap side and just charge down and replace that broken glass with an off-the-shelf chunk of window glass at the local glass shop. Cheap, but not wise.

The original glass is tempered — for a good reason. When broken, non-tempered glass has a nasty way of shattering into long, deadly, sharp shards. When replacing glass in an RV, code calls for tempered glass which, when broken, typically chunks into smallish, rounded pieces, far less likely to cause great bodily harm.

Your local glass shop can probably sell you tempered glass, but it may require a few days from order to readiness. Tempering requires cooking the cut-to-size glass in an oven, and many shops have to send out the glass for the tempering process. Yes, you could replace your door glass with acrylic, but don’t use inexpensive Plexiglas. Plexi is easy to work with, but it gets brittle at low temperature and breaks easily. Lexan, although more expensive, is your best alternative.

Before you fire off an order for tempered glass through a glass outfit, check with local RV parts dealers. Many keep replacement glass in stock, and their price and availability may shine in comparison. Or, if you know you have a change-out job coming up, look on eBay or Amazon— you may find sellers that will equip you with a complete two-piece frame and glass for far less than you’d imagine.

While we’re on the subject: Entry door window frames are a two-piece design. You’d think to replace the frame you’d just go down and buy a “pair” of frame pieces. Here’s one of the RV manufacturing world’s great mysteries: The frames are sold as halves, either an exterior half for the outside of the door, or the interior half. But you’ll probably find a dire warning printed on the packaging: “It is strongly recommended that both interior and exterior frames be replaced at the same time.”

The “duh” question then becomes, “Why not sell both halves at a reasonable price, together in one package?” And what’s the big deal, anyway? Our job was to replace a weather-cracked exterior frame half, and cheapskates that we are, we simply bought the exterior half because the interior side looked good enough to us. We later found out one possible flaw in the reasoning. There was a slight bit of warping in our old interior frame, which made alignment a bit tricky. Like any good follower of the “Red Green Show,” we said, “What the heck?” and grabbed screws that were just a bit longer than the originals. After all, that little bit of extra length made alignment so much easier. The first screw put in practically nicked the helper’s hand on the far side of the door — the screws you take out are precisely the correct length.

So get the right glass and, if you can hack it, buy both sides of the frame when you need ’em. You’ll be happier in the long run.

Keep that closet rod in place

By Jim Twamley

Those of you with rear kitchen 5th wheel RVs know just how hazardous a bumpy road can be to the stuff in your cupboards. The rear section of an RV is the most vulnerable to the rock-n-roll of the RV road.

On one of our trips, after we pulled into camp, Mrs. Professor opened the rear clothes closet to discover the wooden clothes hanger bar had fallen down along with all the clothing. On closer inspection I found that the plastic retainer screw was yanked out of the wall. It is amazing to me that one little screw was holding up that bar of clothing.

For a fix, I busted out the cordless electric drill (a tool every RVer should have) and promptly reattached the retainer with not one but four new screws. I didn’t drill a hole, just powered the screws through the existing plastic plate. I did the same with the opposite side retainer which already had two screws. Now all is well in closet-land.

Looking for a campground? Think alternatives

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By Bob Difley

Traveling unfamiliar territory and need a place to put up for the night? Pull out your Trailer Life or Woodall’s Campground Directory and find one, right? Or there’s always the National Association of RV Parks & Campgrounds that will point you to the fanciest of amenity-filled RV resorts or a near-the-freeway overnight mom-and-pop campground with easy in and quick entry back on the freeway in the morning.

But, hey! Not all of us are blessed with excess cash on our RV excursions. Simply put, not all of us can afford campgrounds that have excess funds to spend on advertising and camper magnets like swimming pools, recreation halls and golf courses. Or maybe you just like a little more space for yourself and don’t need a bunch of amenities.

Think alternatives: Forest Service (both federal and state) campgrounds usually have overnight fees less than half of what privately owned campgrounds and resorts charge, but don’t expect hook-ups, Wi-Fi or cable TV connections. Go to the Forest Service website to find federal campgrounds along your route of travel, or do a Google search for state forest campgrounds wherever you are.

When traveling on Bureau of Land Management Lands, which are spread over the 11 western states, primitive camping (boondocking) is allowed anywhere you can pull safely off the road. Follow a dirt road for a hundred yards or so and you may discover a nice, quiet, desert campsite all to yourself — and it costs you nothing.

When traveling through the countryside of many states, particularly in the Midwest, stop at small-town police stations, chambers of commerce or recreation departments and ask about local or regional campgrounds (almost always for the use of local campers and usually deserted except on weekends) that are never advertised or listed in campground directories.

Also look for camping possibilities when in or near national or state wildlife refuges, fishing access areas, regional or county parks, Indian reservations, national monuments, national grasslands, state fairgrounds and on public utility lands.

If you use a GPS, log what you find into your waypoints or locations log so you can find them the next time through.

You can find Bob Difley’s RVing e-books on Amazon Kindle.

photo: Grand Canyon National Park on flickr.com

How do I test my propane leak detector?

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By Steve Savage, Mobility RV Service

People have asked me: “How do I test my propane leak detector?” The short answer is: Most detectors cannot be reliably tested. Some detectors even come with directions noting attempted testing will void the detector warranty.

The reason you can’t simply spray propane or butane at the detector is straightforward. Detectors are designed to sample what is called “parts per million.” If you spray hair spray or something which uses butane as a propellant at the detector and it goes off, it tells you only it will detect a 100% concentration. In most cases, you would already be on fire with that high a concentration.

Propane detectors are to be replaced every five years or according to the date sticker on their face. Carbon monoxide detectors also have a five-year life span, and smoke detectors have a 10-year life span. No detector can be repaired.

photo: blprnt_van on flickr.com

Keep your hitch ball covered — DIY RV project

By John Cook with Russ and Tiña De Maris

After walking into the hitch ball on my tow rig while wearing my “dress” blue jeans, not long after greasing the hitch ball, I ran the risk of using some colorful metaphors.

What a shame that I was still a couple of years from hearing from our reader, John Cook. John, too, hates the risk of having a greased hitch ball exposed to the elements, or is it having the human race exposed to a greased hitch ball? In any event, John has come up with a simple, inexpensive cover for his hitch ball, which he’s graciously shared with us.

John obtained a 3-inch PVC drain pipe end cap to use as a hitch ball cover. Inside the cap, he affixed a 3/4-inch round “super magnet,” using JB Weld as an attaching medium. The magnet, glued to the cap, ensures the cap will stay in place atop the hitch ball, no matter how much grease is sitting atop the ball. To make sure the entire ball (and shank) is covered, John coupled the cap to a 3-inch PVC drain coupler, sawed off to the correct length to cover the hitch ball. The coupler is glued to the cap using general purpose PVC cement.

All of the “parts” can be purchased at your local Home Depot. Cap: Store SKU # 811440. Coupling: Store SKU # 18903. Magnet: Store SKU # 63380.

Thanks to John for his ingenious “coverage”!

photos: Home Depot

Swing your wall heater out for better coverage


By Greg Illes

We’ve been running non-fan-driven heaters for quite a while now, for all the well-known reasons: outstanding propane efficiency, zero battery usage, silent operation. We’ve used ceramic heaters like Mr. Heater, but those have altitude limitations, and we switched over to a true catalytic heater, the Wave from Olympian.

But whether the units were ceramic or catalytic, we always found that they were fairly directional in nature. Being radiant heaters, they tend to heat up whatever is in front of them. Stuff off to the sides gets warmed only by radiation and convection from other things getting warmed up in front.

That was all well and good while our heaters were free-standing on the floor, because we would just rotate them to point at who/what we wanted. But I wanted a tidier cabin and decided on a wall-mount configuration. It was obvious in advance that a fixed wall-mount would have too-limited coverage, so I needed a way to redirect the heater output across a more diverse area.

I thought at first about having the unit dismount from the wall, but that would involve a folding stand and more complexity than I wanted to deal with. Quick and simple was what I wanted.

I decided on a swing-out configuration, where the heater would swing away from the wall and be pointed through about a 75-degree arc. To do this, I mounted the heater on a plywood board, and hinged the board to the wall (a cabinet, in my case).

To keep things snug and rattle-free during travel, I used another hinge, with a removable pin, as a latch. This turned out to be less rattle-prone than any standard latch I could find. The propane feed is on a flexible line, and as a bonus I installed a friction-slide from a storage chest lid to hold the heater in position (it’s at the bottom, out of sight in the photo).

This whole setup works like a charm and takes mere seconds to deploy or hook back up for travel. I can point the heater toward the dinette when we’re eating, or back toward the kitchen and bedroom for whole-coach heating.

I stained everything a nice golden oak to match the RV woodwork, and sewed up a vinyl cover with embedded magnets to keep the dust away from the catalytic bed. This setup has traveled to Alaska and the Arctic Ocean and worked flawlessly anywhere and everywhere.

photo: Greg Illes

Greg Illes is a retired systems engineer who loves thinking up RV upgrades and modifications. When he’s not working on his motorhome, he’s traveling in it. You can follow his blog at www.divver-city.com/blog.

Not all TPO roofing is created equal

[Editor’s note: This information is provided by roof membrane manufacturer Dicor. While there’s plenty of “promotion” for their product included, some of the information and principles may be of assistance to our readers.]

In 2011, some RV manufacturers started using new formulations of TPO (thermoplastic olefin) roofing material that has come into the RV marketplace. To stay on top of the situation, Dicor tested some of these new formulations against sealants currently available on the market. We found some TPO roofing membranes are not chemically compatible with on-the-shelf lap sealants. When these sealants are used on some new TPO membranes, bloating and disfiguration of the membranes results. This is mostly a cosmetic problem, and does not reduce the performance of the roofing material or sealant, but it’s something you probably want to avoid.

If your RV was built in 2010 or earlier, you needn’t be concerned. But, if you have purchased a 2011, 2012 or later RV model, and you need to do repair work that involves resealing the roof membrane, you should determine if your roofing is TPO or EPDM.

Important Notes:
•If your roofing is EPDM (Ethylene Propylene Diene Monomer), indicated by a colored top and black bottom, you can confidently use Dicor Lap Sealant.
•If your roofing is a solid color all the way through the membrane, or if it has a fleece backing, it is TPO.
•If your TPO has a fleece backing then regular Dicor Lap Sealant will probably be the right choice.
•But if your TPO does not have fleece backing then Dicor Ultra Sealant System should be used.

How to store a small vacuum in your RV

By Jim Twamley

Vacuum cleaners come in various sizes and therefore the storage requirements differ. My wife and I use a DirtDevil hand-held vacuum because it’s small and we need to get on our hands and knees to get to the cracks and crevices anyway, so we get along just fine with this little jewel.

We store it in a plastic tub in an overhead cabinet. This keeps the cabinet clean and the cord out of the way. (We also store the toaster in one of these plastic tubs under the sink and it’s amazing to see how many bread crumbs it collects).

Most full time RVers we hang out with have learned this trick. You might want to try it.

Dry camping? Remember your batteries

By Russ and Tiña De Maris

There’s a lot of beauty that can be reached only when “dry camping” or boondocking. If you’re new to the idea of RVing without hookups, here’s a good reminder regarding battery life.

RV batteries take a LONG time to charge, particularly if you’re trying to charge them with the typical RV converter-charger. Here’s a scenario: “I’ve been out here a couple of days and my lights started going dim. So I fired up the generator and it’s been running for hours, but my battery is still low!”

The standard “factory equipped” converter-charger rarely sends more than 3 or 4 amps to the battery when “shore power” or generator power is available. At that rate it can take many, many hours to really charge up the RV battery. If you don’t have solar or wind power and don’t have a built-in high current charging system, here’s how to make your RV generator help out:

Use a fairly high current freestanding battery charger — like you’d pick up at an auto parts store — and hook it directly to the RV “house” battery — the one that operates your interior lights and water pump. If you need an extension cord, be sure to use a suitably “gauged” (heavy enough) cord for the charger.