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Give your faded dipstick the brush-off

By Jim Twamley

All RVers need to be mindful of the fluid levels in their towing vehicles and motorhomes. You should check all your fluid levels prior to hitting the road — but after a few miles your dipstick may begin to look a little tired.

Sometimes you can’t even tell what the fluid level is because the stick is too dark and the fill lines are hard to make out.

There are a couple things you can do to make this situation better. You can drill a couple of small holes through the stick where the “low” and “full” lines are, and as the fluid covers these holes you can readily tell the level.

I used a wire wheel brush to clean up my automatic transmission dipstick. Now I can clearly see where the lines are and I don’t have to guess what the level is.

Many of these dipsticks are so long you could use them as a flag pole. I curl mine around into a loop when I take it out so I’m not dragging it in the dirt.

Yikes! What a hat!

I spotted this mannequin in a New York City store window. How about that hat?

Where do you suppose someone would wear it? Not when they’re with me, I hope. Still, I kinda like it.

Motel offers free rooms. But maybe few takers?

The Idle-A-While Motel in Twisp, Washington is cute as can be with its white, yellow-framed cottages. It advertises all the usual motel creature comforts and then some. “We invite you to relax in the hot tub, enjoy a sauna, play a game of tennis or barbeque in the picnic area,” its brochure explains.

It also advertises a special deal — a free room for two! Sound good?

Here’s the scoop, word-for-word from the motel’s literature. “For that special person over age 80, accompanied by their parent, your room is on the house.”

In the 28 years since the offer was first made, nobody has taken it up. Big surprise, huh?

All 30A outlets are not created equal. Does your electrician know?

by Steve Savage, Mobility RV Service

Here’s a common mistake. An RV owner decides he wants to be able to run everything in his RV including the air conditioner. It’s convenient, to be sure, so he wants that ability at home. The next call is to a local electrician who then wires a new receptacle for the RV.

Sounds good so far, but most electricians think wiring a 30-amp receptacle is a 240-volt job, like they would for a welder. The problem is an RV needs 120-volts, not that higher, welder-friendly 240 volts. That is to say, they wire the receptacle with a black, red and ground, rather than a black, white and ground.

When having a new 30-amp receptacle installed, be sure to make your electrician aware of what you need. Plugging into 240 volts rather than 120 volts makes bad things happen quickly. Normally, any 120-volt appliance that is turned on or powered at the time — think the power converter and microwave — will go up in smoke instantly when hit with 240 volts, as they are always “on.” How much else is damaged depends — although I have seen high-end entertainment systems fried, to name another common finding in these cases. Just remember, most electricians do not routinely wire for RVs, so there is no reason to assume they will automatically know what is necessary. Just say “120-volt, 30-amp circuit” and you should be free of any disaster.

photo: OpenClips on pixabay.com, public domain image

Awning in danger of high winds? Milk to the rescue!

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By Bob Difley

Blasting winds can come up unexpectedly and blow with strong gusts, then fade away. Trouble is, they can leave a trail of bent awning hardware. You may not always receive adequate warning signs and get caught with your awning extended when you’re snoozing or away for a short walk.

Here’s a quick and easy safeguard: Fill plastic gallon jugs with water and hang from the outward ends of your awning. The weight of the water will minimize the lift and flap of the awning and reduce the possibility of damaged fabric or arms if a sudden wind rushes through your campsite.

Use an “Arizona room” or have screens attached to your rig? The same idea can be used to protect them as well. Filled jugs placed on the bottom edge of screen rooms or sunscreens will also do the job.

photo: Si Griffiths on wikimedia commons

Never lose that bumper hose cap again

By Mel Goddard

There are so few places to store your RV sewer hose. You can put it in the basement storage area — if you have such an area and have the room — but the smell can really get to you. For trailer owners, and a few motorhomers, too, it’s great to be able to just stick them away in that convenient square-tube bumper.

But you know the routine: How many of you have lost the cap in transit? Now you’re having to use the “spare” cap — because you keep losing them! The cost isn’t that great but it’s still a sting — who wants to blow a big chunk out of a $10 bill as the price of forgetfulness?

I solved that problem by drilling a 1/4-inch hole through the bumper tube and the cap, then using a 1/4-inch “pip” pin held by a lanyard to keep the cap in place. While the cap may loosen in transit, it’ll never fall off. Save your $10 bucks and buy you and your better half a cup of coffee!

photo: Mel Goddard

Replacing RV door glass or window frames

By Russ and Tiña De Maris

If it’s time to replace your entry door window glass or the associated frame, it’s not a tough job. Entry door window frames are a two-piece design. The frames are sold as halves, either an exterior half for the outside of the door, or the interior half. But you’ll probably find a dire warning printed on the packaging: “It is strongly recommended that both interior and exterior frames be replaced at the same time.”

So why not sell both halves at a reasonable price together in one package? Since our own job was to replace a weather-cracked exterior frame half, and cheapskates that we are, we simply bought the exterior half because the interior side looked good enough to us. We later found out one possible flaw in the reasoning.

When replacing door glass, don’t run to the big box hardware store looking for a replacement. The original glass is tempered — for a good reason. When broken, non-tempered glass has a nasty way of shattering into long, sharp, deadly shards. When replacing glass in an RV, code calls for tempered glass which, when broken, typically chunks into smallish, rounded pieces, far less likely to cause great bodily harm.

You can get the glass from the local glass shop but it may require a few days from order to readiness. Tempering requires cooking the cut-to-size glass in an oven, and many shops have to send out the glass for the tempering process. You can use plastic, but don’t use inexpensive Plexiglas. Plexi is easy to work with but it gets brittle at low temperature and breaks easily. Lexan, although more expensive, is your best alternative. Before ordering either one check with local RV parts dealers. Many keep replacement glass in stock and their price may beat the glass shop. If you know you have a change-out job coming up, look on Amazon — you may find sellers that will equip you with a complete two-piece frame and glass for far less than you’d imagine.

You’ll need a helper, as the actual glass is not directly attached to the window frame, and you’ll find yourself juggling three pieces — one of them breakable. For easy removal, use a cordless drill equipped with a #2 Phillips screw bit. There are 12 screws that hold the frames together. Zip out the screws while your helper stabilizes the whole shooting match. If the sealant on the exterior frame is still intact, remove the interior frame and glass from the inside of the door.

With the frame removed, clean up any frame piece you’ll be reusing. A flat scraper and at times a rag with solvent are about all you’ll need. If the glass is intact, use a scraper to remove sealant and clean the glass with glass cleaner. Using a bench or table to complete your prep work makes the job easier. Lay the exterior frame on the bench with the “outside” down. Put a layer of butyl putty tape around the far outside perimeter of the window frame. By covering about half of the surface of the frame with putty tape then coming back and cutting off the excess (the tape is much wider than the frame’s flange), you may be able to use the cut-off piece to complete the “puttying” of the frame.

Next, silicone sealant is used to form a complete bead around the interior perimeter of the exterior doorframe. This is the bed that the door glass will seat into, and keep the rain from coming in around the glass. We opted to go with a nonstandard approach and use an acrylic sealant instead. We hate the “nothing will ever stick to silicone” issue, and if we need to reseat the glass in the future, prep work will be much faster. If you have time to wait, put down the bead of sealant and lay the glass in place. Leave putting on the perimeter of putty tape until after the other sealant has set up and now firmly holds the glass to the frame. This will make handling the glass and frames oh-so-much easier. Since we were living in the trailer when we had to replace our glass, we didn’t have that luxury, and manipulating two frames and a chunk of glass — all nicely wet with sticky sealant — was like a page from the Laurel and Hardy playbook.

Using help, bring the exterior frame and its glass companion around and shove them in the open hole of the door. By the way, the exterior frame has no screw holes in it. The screws go in from the interior frame only. With the new window frame in place, align the interior doorframe with the exterior frame. Here’s where buying both interior and exterior frames brand-new may make a difference. There was a slight bit of warping in our old interior frame, which made alignment a bit tricky. Like any good follower of the “Red Green Show,” we said, “What the heck?” and grabbed screws that were just a bit longer than the originals. After all, that little bit of extra length made alignment easier. The first screw put in practically nicked the helper’s hand on the far side of the door — the screws you take out are precisely the correct length. Snug the screws down tight enough to squish out some of the putty tape, but don’t overdo it.

If your installation is anything like ours, now is not “Miller Time.” The hash job we made with not having enough hands to juggle fresh glass adhesive and the addition of plenty of putty tape spillover meant an extra 20 minutes spent rubbing off “goofs,” in addition to using the scraper to remove the excess putty tape.

Despite the hassles, the new window frame is a big improvement over its predecessor.

RV campfire manners

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By Jim Twamley

Let me state this clearly: RVers who leave campfires unattended are thoughtless. Besides the fact that an unattended fire has the potential to burn down the camp, many people are allergic to the products in campfire smoke. Some may have mild reactions such as congestion or watering eyes. Others can have more severe reactions such as throat constriction and asthma attacks.

Many RVers don’t realize this and allow their campfires to smolder until the campground looks like Los Angeles back in the ’60s. If there is a constant breeze to carry the smoke away this isn’t usually a problem. However, when there is little or no breeze, and you insist on having a campfire, then please keep it a fire and not a “smoke generator.” By that I mean, you need to keep feeding the fire so that you see flames. There will still be smoke, but flame indicates that you are achieving a more thorough burn and dissipating less smoke into your neighbor’s RV.

And please, when you are done with your campfire put it out completely! Drown it with water, stir the ashes, drown it again, stir the ashes and repeat. When you are finished, there should be no smoke coming out of your fire pit. Don’t worry, the fire pit will dry out for the next campfire. If, however you leave your fire pit smoldering, you could be causing a kid to have an asthma attack. Many kids (including one of my grandchildren) have asthma and carry inhalers. If you’ve never experienced an asthma attack yourself or seen someone have one, you have no idea how painful and dangerous this condition really is.

So, please, when you have a campfire, use it responsibly, namely keep it fed and put it out when you’re done. Helping kids have a pleasurable camping experience is one of the joys of the RV lifestyle.

RV battery disconnect switches: how, when and why

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By Steve Savage, Mobility RV Service

Got a battery disconnect switch on your RV and wonder how to use it? Whether your switch is the “manually thrown” style or an “automatic push-button,” they all do the same job: They break the connection between the battery and the 12-volt fuses providing power to lights, appliances and so on.

You should know that basically all appliances depend on 12-volt battery power to activate module boards, even if the appliance like an air conditioner runs on 120-volt power.

It all boils down to this: When the disconnect is thrown, the only way things depending on 12 volts will work is when the RV is plugged into the shoreline. Once plugged in, the power converter or inverter/charger provides power even when the disconnect is thrown.

So suppose you are plugged into shore power and your refrigerator is set on the “auto” function, which means it would normally switch over to propane if the RV was unplugged from shore power. If the disconnect is turned off and if shore power should go out or you unplug your rig from shore power, the refrigerator will not switch to propane. This is because the module board has no 12-volt power. The lights won’t work, either, nor will the furnace or water heater, until you plug the shore line back in or you turn the disconnect back on.

So what is a disconnect for? The disconnect should be turned off when you store your camper so your batteries discharge more slowly. Mind you, they’ll still discharge spontaneously over the course of several weeks, but with the switch off it’ll take longer. Using your disconnect switch in this way ensures longer life for your batteries. So if a little is good, how about turning it off every time you leave your RV? Doing that when you are plugged into shore power also disconnects your batteries from the charging circuit of your power, meaning that even if the rig is plugged into shore power, your batteries will not charge.

My advice? Keep it simple. Turn the disconnect off when you’ll be away from your rig for a significant period of time, as in a week or more — otherwise, leave it on. There is enough to remember when camping without having to remember the position of the disconnect switch on your batteries!

What should you do if you are going to store your RV and do not have a disconnect switch? You can simply remove the negative lead from your battery — but a better solution would be to install a manual disconnection switch. They are cheap and take only a few minutes to install.

Put some good skid wheels on to protect your rig


By Greg Illes

My RV is a 2003 Itasca model, and it came equipped with some simple skid bumpers bolted to the back ends of the frame rails. I would often notice the horrific Wham! of the skids hitting solid pavement while negotiating a driveway, drainage or other significant ground undulation. I learned to approach those disturbances slowly and “bash” the chassis as gently as I could.

Despite my care and caution, the skids were nearly ground away in less than two years and 20,000 miles of wandering. In addition, I noticed that my driveway (sharp deflection at the bottom) was showing some scarring. The skids were pretty narrow, only about 1.5 inches wide, and sharply pointed. So they would tend to dig into any softer surface and cause a lot of drag when I least needed it.

Along my travels, I also noticed that not every RV was equipped with any skids at all. The lower-cost units would usually show the consequences of lack of skids with various degrees of damage to chassis, body, bumper, hitch and even tow bar.

The “proper” solution came to me after a diligent hunt across Amazon, eBay, and quite a few RV suppliers. Various manufacturers produce roller-skids for just the purpose of protecting the rear ends of heavy vehicles. These rollers range from small 2.5-inch diameter units, some of which can attach to a tow hitch, to big 6-inch and larger wheels like you see on the back of dumpsters and cargo trucks.

Being a proud extremist, I chose a pair of 6-inch wheels rated at 5,000 pounds each, and welded their brackets up onto the ends of my tow hitch. The wheels are heavy-duty enough to support the entire weight of the rear end, although of course if this happened the rear wheels would be off the ground and I’d be going only downhill. But the idea is to be fail-proof, and that’s what they are. I’ve added only about 15 pounds to the back of my rig, and there is no longer any driveway or drainage culvert that causes me any grief.

Whether you decide on a simple, single roller on your tow hitch or an aggressive setup like mine, you’ll be happy to “hear the silence” from the back of your rig when next you go through a V-shaped road.

photo: Greg Illes

Greg Illes is a retired systems engineer who loves thinking up RV upgrades and modifications. When he’s not working on his motorhome, he’s traveling in it. You can follow his blog at www.divver-city.com/blog.

Does your RV need “drinking water freshener”?

By Russ and Tiña De Maris

Perusing the RV accessory shelves at Walmart, we ran across a bottle labeled “CAMCO Drinking Water Freshener.” Water freshener?

A squint at the fine print of the label reveals this bold promise: “Keeps stored water fresh tasting and odor free.” Simply pour one ounce into your fresh water tank for every 20 gallons of capacity. All this, and the price at your friendly Walmart store? $4.95 for a 16-ounce bottle — enough to treat 320 gallons of water.

Does your rig need this stuff? And what is it, anyway?

Get out your magnifying glass and you’ll quickly learn the active ingredient in this product is sodium hypochlorite. In other words, bleach, as in laundry bleach. Do you need to add bleach to your RV fresh water tank? Much depends on how you use your water. If you fill your tank with clean, fresh tap water and use it within a few weeks, you’ll likely find it works just fine without any additives. Water left in a tank unused for long periods of time can go “stale” and some fear that algae could grow. Yeah, maybe, but algae growth requires light and most RV fresh water tanks are locked away in a compartment, away from light, so the real chance of algae growth (which isn’t harmful, anyway) is pretty slim.

Still, if you’re concerned that your fresh water might not taste so fresh, you can simply drain your fresh water tank between RV trips. If you’re water conservation aware, gauge how much water you use and don’t fill the tank full before leaving. Water scales in at eight pounds per gallon, and if you don’t really need a full tank you’ll have less weight on board when traveling, which could reduce your fuel consumption.

Some people feel that chlorinated water is a health hazard; if hooked up to a city water tap they go to great pains to filter out the chlorine before drinking or showering in it. If you choose to add drinking water freshener, remember, it’s basically the same stuff that municipalities put in their water to chlorinate it.

In the end, if you really want to put a water freshener in your tank, here’s a money saving tip: Pass on the $4.95 a pint stuff, head out to the laundry detergent aisle and pick yourself up a bottle of laundry bleach. Get the straight bleach with no preservatives, fragrances or other added ingredients. Then, following public health official recommendations, use this formula: one teaspoon of bleach to five gallons of fresh water tank capacity. Use it by filling your tank up about one-fourth with water then adding the appropriate amount of bleach to a quart of water. Toss that mixture in the tank and top off the tank with tap water. Don’t drink this until after a half hour of treatment.

Not only will this “freshen” your tank water, keep down algae growth and make your fresh water tank smell like kitchen tap water after a long rainy spell, health authorities say it will also kill off a host of nasty organisms that might make you sick. Of course, if you’re taking your water from a municipal supply or safe well system, there probably aren’t any bugs to begin with.

Weird superstitions about death and dying

Here are a few superstitions about death and dying that I learned about from a pamphlet at the Missoula Cemetery.

Screen+Shot+2015-07-11+at+8.48.14+PMPASSING A CEMETERY: Hold your breath when passing a cemetery or you will breathe in the spirit of someone who recently died. Tuck your thumbs into your fists when passing a cemetery to protect your parents.

MIRRORS in the house with a corpse should be covered or the person who sees himself will die next. If a mirror should fall from the wall and breaks itself then someone in the house will die soon.

EYE TWITCHING: If a person’s left eye twitches there will soon be a death in the family.

THUNDER following a funeral means the person’s soul has reached heaven.

PREGNANT WOMEN attending a funeral who walk on the grave will result in a child born with club feet.

PHOTOGRAPHY: If three people are photographed together the one in the middle will die first.

REMOVING A CORPSE: A corpse should be removed from the house feet first to prevent his or her spirit from looking back into the house and beckoning another member of the family to follow.

CURES: Being near or in an open grave cures all manner of illnesses including toothache, boils and incontinence.

Screen+Shot+2015-07-11+at+8.49.51+PMWITCH: A witch must be buried face down to prevent the community further supernatural spells. If this doesn’t work, unbury her and turn her clothes inside out, then re-bury her face down. This should do the trick.

DOG HOWLING: If a dog howls three times it means someone is going to die. If a dog howls at night when someone in the house is sick it is a bad omen. This omen can be reversed by reaching under the bed and turning over a shoe.

BELLS ON A GRAVE (This is actually a fact): The fear of someone being being buried alive led coffin makers to design caskets with an internal chain attached to a bell on the grave. If the person should awake they would pull the bell and alert the community to their premature burial. Hence the saying “Saved by the bell.”

SHOES ON THE TABLE: Leaving shoes on the table will bring sickness and possibly death by hanging.

TOUCHING THE DECEASED: If you touch a loved one who has died you won’t have dreams about them.

MAZES were placed at some cemetery entrances to prevent spirits from returning to the world as it was known that ghosts could only travel in a straight line.

(Researched by Mary Ellen Stubb, Missoula Cemetery Sexton)