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RVs: Stable in high winds?

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By Russ and Tiña De Maris
When high winds cut a path through Wyoming, at least one RVer learned the hard way that RVs can sometimes do tricks — call it, “Roll over and play dead.” Not funny if it happens to you, so how do you prevent a freak wind from ruining your day?

First rule: Minimize exposure. The less “profile” you present to the wind, the better your rig will be able to handle the oncoming blast. We use our research travel trailer as an example. Our travel trailer is 7 feet high and 23 feet long, giving it 161 square feet of surface area when parked sideways to an oncoming wind. A few wind load calculations are eye-openers (see charts below).

An 80-mile-per-hour wind will probably give my little rig a bit of a pause to think about — far more than a rock-a-bye-baby situation. But simply parking with my 7-foot x 8-foot nose to the wind, check out the wind load difference.

With my nose to the wind, I can certainly sleep better.

Of course, we can’t always predict how strong or from which direction the winds will come. To that end, when parking your rig for a spell put out the stabilizers, giving you a more solid footprint against rocking. If you’re in an area prone to high winds, then think about putting down a few “mobile home anchors” and link them to your RV frame with an appropriate system that will allow you to quickly disconnect when it’s time to hit the road.

In our years of being on the road, we’ve been in some hairy situations where the rig has rocked plenty hard. We’ve personally never capsized, nor known anyone who has, and taking simple precautions can give you peace of mind.

Shoosh bugs away from the front of your rig

By Bob Difley

Spring is here and along with the flowering trees and shrubs come the inevitable bugs — hundreds of which decide to end their short lives by splatting against the front of your RV.

Here are a couple of ways to ease the nasty chore of cleaning up after a long trip: First, wash and wax the exposed forward surfaces of your RV to offer up the slickest, cleanest surface to the intrusive bugs. They will find it hard to stick, and will also be easier to remove.

Second, rub a thin coating of baby oil on the front surfaces, creating a nice slick surface. A rub down with a wet rag at the end of your trip should remove most of them without too much hard scrubbing.

Be sure to catch Bob’s e-books: Boondocking: Finding the Perfect Campsite on America’s Public Lands and the Snowbird Guide to Boondocking in the Southwest, both available at Amazon.com.

Who really makes a quality RV?

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By Steve Savage
Mobility RV Service

In a week’s time I received an email and a campsite visitor, both of whom wanted to discuss quality control. The email was from a reader who wanted to know who made the best RV.

My answer is always the same: The best quality control is generally found with RVs from small manufacturers — make that, very small volume manufacturers, usually accompanied by price tags to match their quality control. They are not perfect, but at least with those you might have a fighting chance.

If the question is intended to ferret out the best from large manufacturers — Thor, Forest River, Heartland, etc. — here we go again. In my opinion, quality control is so variable that buying based on brand name and counting on finding a quality product is simply an impossibility. Yes, they all make some good RVs, but they also make some which are a nightmare for their owners. Again in my opinion, warranty coverage is no better from one than from another. Search the Internet for the model of your choice and add “complaints” to the search bar and you will see what I mean. Those complaints also match my experience as a technician.

My campsite visitor wanted to simply vent about the problems he had with his own unit, which he purchased new. In his opinion, such poor quality control was, in his words, “unethical” — an opinion I hear often. What he wanted to know is why things are the way they are, and I think the answer to that question is simple: Sales are going great guns. New RVs are rolling out the doors in record numbers. People continue to buy them while readily acknowledging they will have problems. It is analogous to purchasing a car and expecting the tires to go flat and windshield to leak water.

So here is where RV buyers are stuck. RVing is fun. People like to RV. My wife and I live to RV. We both grew up in RVing families and have been RVing almost our entire lives. In order to RV, people need an RV. Now think back to the years before Toyota dealerships were not on every street corner and we were forced to buy products from GM, Ford and Chrysler. Remember what quality control was like: No one thought in terms of owning a car for a couple of hundred thousand miles. Then Japanese manufacturers came onto the scene and the American manufacturers had to follow suit, and now we all can own a car for years and enjoy relatively problem-free ownership.

Where it gets hazy is RV buyers mistakenly believe owning an RV is like owning a modern day automobile when, in reality, it’s like owning a car made in the ’50s or, worse yet, an automobile of English persuasion made in the ’50s. They could be great fun, but keeping them on the road was a challenge.

Could the RV industry be transformed? Certainly — all it would take is a manufacturer willing to do the same thing the Japanese manufacturers did when they began selling in the United States: Build a quality product with a five-year guarantee on the box, no roof leaks, no slide leaks, no sidewall delamination. Toss in a dose of fixtures that match the quality found in most of our homes, and tires that last as long as those on our cars and trucks.

In order to keep the costs down, dispense with the five flat screens and stick with the stuff that works and is simple to repair. Do folks really need to have the ability to turn their water heater on or roll up their awnings with their cell phones? I think not. What the RV industry really needs is a Toyota Camry!

(photo: bluediamondgallery.com)

A visit with Sky King

If you know what I am referring to when I mention “Sky King,” then you are probably at least 60 years old.

sky-k-698Sky King was a TV series that ran off and on from 1951 to 1962, about a modern day cowboy who didn’t ride a horse, but chased bad guys with an airplane. Kirby Grant played an Arizona rancher who fought bad guys and rescued people in trouble with his twin-engine Cessna.

Grant, I learned at the Museum of Mountain Flying at the Missoula airport, was born in Butte, Montana. He is buried in a family plot in Missoula.

Like many little boys of my generation, I loved the old black and white TV shows about cowboys — Roy Rogers, the Lone Ranger, Hopalong Cassidy, Gene Autry, the Cisco Kid. Just thinking of those guys makes me feel warm and fuzzy and happy. They were all good guys —fighting a never-ending battle with thugs and outlaws, always winning, but never shooting anybody. When they fired their guns it was almost always when racing after a desperado on horseback (never hitting him) or, more likely, shooting the gun out of the bad guy’s hand.

kirby-698Kirby Grant, I learned yesterday, was really Kirby Grant Hoon. The show Sky King was his claim to fame, although he appeared in a few dozen B movies. Early in his life he played violin and even led a dance band. After Sky King, he bought and traveled with a circus. Sadly, he died in 1985 at age 74 in a car accident while on the way to a Space Shuttle launch where he was to be honored by astronauts for his contributions to aviation and space flight.

I enjoyed visiting Kirby yesterday. I stood at his grave for awhile and thought about all the hours he had entertained me as a little boy. I thanked him. I felt a bit sad as I drove off, reminded once again that all my childhood TV heroes are now gone.

If you are in Missoula and would like to pay tribute to “Sky,” he’s at the Missoula City Cemetery just a half-mile off I-90. Just park at the cemetery office and turn around. He’s right on the front row beneath a big shade tree.

If you never saw Sky King when it was on TV, you are in luck. You can watch a full episode on YouTube by clicking here.

Why is a water view so important?

A “lake view” space just opened up at the RV park where I’m staying. I’m tempted to pull up and move there. But I won’t because I’m too lazy to unhook the utilities and then reverse the process after moving.

water-703Why is it we love views of the water, whether a lake or ocean? I know that to me it’s pleasing, relaxing. At home near Seattle, my home overlooks Puget Sound. It’s somehow calming to look out over the water. It’s not exciting, but it always makes me feel good. I bet my blood pressure drops a few points.

I wonder if being in view of water has something to do with we humans being composed mostly of water, about 60 percent. Actually, men average 60 percent. Women are a little less, 55 percent, because their bodies contain more fat.

Or maybe looking at water is just pretty, and that’s why the sight of it is so pleasing. Maybe that alone is worth the extra price of a home or campsite.

What do you think?

The man who taught a dog to talk

Screen+Shot+2015-10-23+at+8.36.44+AMAlexander Graham Bell is remembered mostly for inventing the telephone. But did you know he once taught a dog to talk?

Bell, born in Scotland, moved to North America in his early 20s, living most of his life in out-of-the-way Baddeck, Nova Scotia. Today, the Alexander Graham Bell Museum there honors the inventor, his inventions and his life. Among his more interesting experiments, which came before he came to Canada, was teaching a dog to talk. He did it. Sort of. . .Here is what I learned on my visit to the museum. In Bell’s words:

“By the application of suitable doses of food material the dog was. . . taught to sit up on his hind legs and growl continuously while I manipulated his mouth, and stop growling when I took my hands away. . .

“The dog’s repertoire. . . consisted of the vowels ‘ah’ and ‘oo,’ and the syllables ‘ma’ and ‘ga.’ We then proceeded to manufacture words and sentences composed of these elements, and the dog’s final linguistic accomplishment consisted of ‘Aw-ah-oo-gamama,’ which, by the exercise of a little imagination, readily passed for ‘How are you, Grandmama?'”

Protect your engine and radiator with a grill screen


By Greg Illes

We were happily driving along the highway, enjoying the passing scenery, when suddenly a small flock of sparrows crossed our path, darting frantically about in front of our class-A before escaping. Alas, one of the tiny birds was not as adept an aviator as his fellows and I heard/felt a small “thwack.” So we pulled over to investigate.

We were both glad that we stopped. The bird had passed straight through the factory grill (in several pieces) and was distributed in a very messy fashion across two radiators and my hydraulic jack pump.

Needless to say, it was a sad (and yucky) task to clean up, and it left me with a resolve to try to avoid a recurrence. I might not be able to save a hapless bird, but I can do better to protect my engine compartment.

After some brief Interneting, I found an online provider of standard and unique metal products and I purchased a small sheet of what is called “expanded metal” — in stainless steel!

Trimming and mounting the sheet in place of my factory grill took less than two hours of fiddling and fitting, and the results are rewarding. I have a rustproof grill with openings only one-half inch wide now. Anything larger than a bumblebee is going to be denied entrance to my engine compartment, including birds, sticks, rocks and other would-be trespassers. And honestly, as an extra bonus, I feel that the appearance is much improved over the old retro-looking steel-bar grill that came with the coach.

For $60 delivered to my door, this was a worthy mini-project. If you are intrigued by the possibilities, the material is available in various metals, hole sizes, and gauges at metalsdepot.com.

Editor’s note: Amazon also has sheets of expanded metal.

photo: Greg Illes

Greg Illes is a retired systems engineer who loves thinking up RV upgrades and modifications. When he’s not working on his motorhome, he’s traveling in it. You can follow his blog at www.divver-city.com/blog.

Repair UV damage quickly and easily

By Jim Twamley
Look around the RV park and you’ll see examples of UV radiation damage. Window frames, vents and corner pieces that have yellowed are abundant. These items are still serviceable, but they will eventually become brittle and crack, allowing moisture into your RV.
 
You can purchase new frames and vents (they are inexpensive parts), or you can remove them, give them a good cleaning, then spray paint them — they will look as good as new. You should also clean off the old caulking and reapply fresh caulking at this time.

If you choose to replace them with new parts, I would still paint them with a high-quality paint before replacing them. Paint will stand up better to UV radiation than the PVC-type material these are made from.

Use the right tools for a cheery (and safe) campfire

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By Greg Illes

Just about everyone loves a campfire. There’s even a word in Swahili that means “dreaming the fire,” it’s such a compelling experience. Perhaps the first “tool” you need is a deep sense of appreciation — of the beautiful spirit of the fire and of your responsibilities with it.

It’s certainly possible to gather a bunch of wood lying around, stack it up and set fire to it. That’sif you find some wood, if it’s the right size and length, if you have some decent kindling, and if you have a safe place to burn it. And there are pitfalls.

One time, long ago, I gathered up some forest-floor wood, an eclectic lot of sticks and branches. I put a too-long branch across a rock and stomped on it to break it in half. Ouch!!! That hurt, and I suffered a slight sprain for a few days. After that, I used the proper tools.

To gather and prepare wood for a campfire, you’ll need at least a small bow saw or long pruning saw. What about an axe? Yes, an axe will cut wood — with the proper skill and patience — and it’s still the least-safe method. But the saw will rip through a three-inch branch in one-fifth the time it would take you to chop it. You’ll find out that an axe is mostly useful for splitting, and for this task a specialty tool like the “Fireside Friend” is better and safer (Amazon, about $40). You can also use the saw (when permitted) to cut deadfall branches off of dead or downed trees. For the hyper-macho types, a small electric chain saw (Amazon) is lightweight and takes only a little juice from your inverter/battery setup. Quiet, too.

An absolutely awesome kindling product is the wax-impregnated sawdust that is sold under different brand names like Sure Start, Safe Lite, etc. (Find them at Amazon.) These will get small branches going with no paper or other help.

A general rule is that large wood needs large fires. If you split your wood into small diameters, you can nurse a small fire along for hours with much less wood consumed. It just depends on whether you want a bonfire or a hunter-trapper fire.

Now, let me say that I do know how to start a fire with matches, or even flint and steel. However, it’s a tedious and painstaking process, and once you’ve done it, you realize why the Bic was invented. Unfortunately, the little wimpy lighters for cigarettes and barbecues are often not up to the capricious winds at a typical camp. Instead, I use a disposable propane bottle with an instant-light burner (same kind used for sweating copper pipe joints). Okay, slam me, but I get those fires started right now.

Once it’s going, there are always one or more “fiddlers” around the fire — you know who you are. You just can’t resist tweaking the logs and embers, poking the fire into a different configuration, or just plain fiddling with it. The most proper tool for this is not a poker (although it will do), but a scissor tong that lets you pick up pieces of burning wood and reposition them. There are a variety of these (Amazon) for $20-$50 depending on size and quality.

There are also other tools you may take a fancy to: grills, dutch ovens, and other cooking-oriented tools can turn a campfire into a kitchen. Sadly, not enough space here to get into this category. (But you can check out campfire cooking equipment at Amazon.)

But frankly, the most important fireside tool is a shovel. The shovel is used to help prepare a fire pit, and, vitally, to help fight any unwanted flare-ups from flying sparks and embers. However, DO NOT use the shovel to put the fire out. It’s been proven time and time again that buried embers can survive for days, re-emerging later to ignite the woods when you are not there.

Use water to put out the fire. If you hate using your precious water, be sure to burn the fire down to cold ashes — ashes that you can touch. Then you can use the shovel to cover the ashes and keep them from blowing around and messing up the camp.

Be safe with your fire building and burning. There are a lot of ways to get hurt, so exercise attention and care to keep your campfires joyous.

Happy dreaming.

photo: pixabay / public domain

Greg Illes is a retired systems engineer who loves thinking up RV upgrades and modifications. When he’s not working on his motorhome, he’s traveling in it. You can follow his blog at www.divver-city.com/blog.

Use a cell phone booster to get a (more) solid connection


By Greg Illes

There are a lot of places to go in an RV, but sadly only a small percentage of them have decent cell phone coverage. Fewer areas have good data coverage (3G) and only a fraction of the U.S. has any 4G.

tower-736What this means to us wandering nomads is that we have regular difficulty in getting email, browsing the Internet, or even just calling friends and family to keep in touch.

There are products intended to help us out. They are generally called signal boosters, and they have widely variable reviews from five stars (“wonderful”) to one star (“and I wish I could give a zero”).

The most significant aspect of a booster is that it is allowed a much higher broadcast power than cell phones. With higher power, it’s more likely to stay in contact with a distant cell tower. This, combined with an efficient antenna, is why any booster works at all.

There are caveats. Here is what you can expect from a good booster product:

•It will “increase your bars” — signal strength will be improved.
•It will improve reliability — fewer dropouts and lost calls.
•It will NOT create something from nothing — if you have absolutely no signal, you will still have absolutely no signal.
•It will NOT create 3G from 1X, or 4G from 3G — you might get improved phone calls, but if there’s no data signal, you won’t get data.

Given these limitations, a $200 investment must be carefully evaluated. So far, I’ve found it to be useful — but not earthshaking.

In order to get the best performance, I combined a cell phone booster with a dual band antenna. I mounted the antenna on an aluminum pole to about six feet above my coach roof. It can all be deployed or stored in a couple of minutes.

Several places I’ve been have been ideal for this setup: only a bar or so of signal, no reliable connection, calls don’t connect or are dropped. With the booster, things work again. Not like being in downtown San Jose, but, yes, working.

As they say, YMMV (your mileage may vary) but it could be worth a look.

Internet RV selling tips

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By Steve Savage, Mobility RV Service

Selling RVs on the Internet has become the hot item. So hot that dealers are having a hard time keeping used units on their lots because rather than trade, owners are trying to sell their old units before or after purchasing new. If you find yourself in this category, here are a few ideas that just might help you find a buyer:

1. Be sure your ad is complete. That means you need to include the year, the manufacturer, the model, the length, the number of slides, and some statement regarding overall condition that accurately reflects what you are selling. Often buyers use filters to narrow the number of ads they have to review and failing to put in essential information can leave your RV off the list.

2. For heaven’s sake, include pictures. You don’t need 30 or 40, but you definitely need more than three or four, and be sure to include shots of both the inside and the outside of the RV.

3. Before you take pictures, clean up your RV so it looks its best and then put the clean-up equipment away. Potential buyers want to see your RV, not your mop and vacuum cleaner.

4. Make sure the pictures are oriented correctly and are clear. Small pictures taken with your phone are seldom good enough to show detail and do not match the quality of a good point-and-shoot pocket camera. Pictures that are posted sideways or upside down say you are a careless person, and buyers may assume this carries over to how you maintained your RV.

5. Don’t lie about what you are selling or leave the defect you mention in your advertisement out of the pictures. When I read one thing and see another, I move on to the next posting quickly.

6. Be realistic with your price. NADA prices are nearly meaningless other than it works negatively to go over the average retail. Most folks will be shooting for below the wholesale price. Remember anyone can buy almost any RV for somewhere between wholesale and retail, so you’d better have something really exceptional if you’re asking high dollar.

7. Adding standard equipment to your asking price is a mistake and is not how the NADA guide is designed to be used. Standard equipment is included in the base price and listing minutia wastes a reader’s time. Stick to the stuff that’s important and try to tell a story about your listing.

The goal of selling is to capture the reader’s attention without wasting their time and providing them with a sense of what makes the RV you are selling special.

photo: NASA

Pull out storage organizes RV galley

By Duane Curtis
Can’t find those things on the back of the deep shelves in your RV kitchen? Here’s our solution, right off the shelves at Lowe’s. At the big-box hardware store we ran across slide out containers.

These can be easily mounted with just four screws, and it’s amazing what you can put in them. Our fifth wheel has a five-shelf deep cabinet next to the refrigerator. We took three of these pull out wizards and mounted them in the spaces of three of the existing shelves. Fill ’em up and put ’em away. Need something? Roll out the container and you can easily access the contents. Here’s a plus: Even if your cabinet door pops open when traveling, the contents will stay put rather than blasting out onto the floor.

Our units mount to the bottom of the shelf and allow a little space to the side of the bin. You’ll not only find these at Lowe’s but also at other stores, including Bed Bath & Beyond.