By Janet Groene
To RV travelers in Alaska and the Pacific Northwest, “collecting” totem poles with a camera is addictive. They are colorful. They are deeply rooted in North American culture. Each tells its own story, and the more you learn about their meaning and magic, the more you fall under their spell.
Here are some factoids to consider as your collection grows:
Totem pole symbols, style and meanings
Totem is the symbol. A totem pole is a collection of these symbols. Traditionally it’s a single log of red cedar that is carved by First Nations peoples of the Pacific Northwest Coast. It is to be respected, honored and preserved.
The original totem poles in the Pacific Northwest are credited to the Haida people, the Nuxalrts, the Kwakwaka’wakw, the Tlingits, the Tsimshians, and the Coast Salish.
While each tribe has its own style of pole, most are made up of animal symbols that have almost universal meanings that make sense to modern ears. The Bear represents strength, motherhood, and teaching, just as we use Mother Bear today as a symbol of fierce nurturing. Beaver is a creative builder. Owl is wise. Cougar is power. Bat means death. Crow is cunning, while Fox is stealthy and sly. Sound familiar?
Where to see totem poles
Not all major totem pole collections are in the Northwest. Major museums with important collections include the Alaska State Museum, Juneau, Alaska; the American Museum of Natural History, New York City, New York; Burke Museum of Natural History and Culture at the University of Washington in Seattle; and the Canadian Museum of History, Hull area of Gatineau, Quebec.
Ketchikan, Alaska, is home to a large collection of poles and is said by many to be the totem pole capital of the world.
Admission is free to Potlach Totem Park in Ketchikan. In addition to the totem poles, the park also has a carving center, a traditional tribal house, and an auto museum.
Admission is $5 to Totem Bight State Historical Park and Saxman Native Village, also in the Ketchikan area. When in downtown Ketchikan, pick up a free walking tour where you’ll see many totem poles around the central area.
Cape Fox Lodge in Ketchikan is a hotel but visitors are welcome to see its collections of totem poles, masks, carvings, baskets and more native artifacts.
Even the most independent travelers find that many of Ketchikan’s totem package tours are worthwhile. Solve parking and navigation problems, incorporate a salmon bake or crab feast in the day’s fun, and tour with knowledgeable guides who provide the backstory for what you’re seeing.
For many years, British Columbia banned totem poles, which were considered pagan. Now the province cherishes its rich heritage of all native arts.
The largest collection of totem poles
The small native village of Saxman Alaska is 2.8 miles south of Ketchikan and claims to have the largest collection of standing poles in the world. The totem park’s 29 poles were carved by Tlingit and Haida natives. Each tells a different story.
More trivia
- It’s possible to order your own totem pole, authentically crafted by a skilled master carver at the Spirits of the West Coast Art Gallery on Vancouver Island in Comox Valley, British Columbia. Visit their website to arrange a tour of the gallery.
- The tallest totem pole is said to be at Alert Bay, Cormorant Island, British Columbia. See several dozen historic totem poles, including one that is 173 feet high. The island is reached by ferry from Port McNeill.
- McKinleyville, California’s totem pole is 125 feet high. Standing behind a supermarket, it was erected in 1962 to commemorate the opening of the shopping center.
- Observer’s eyes usually focus on the most decorative symbol at the top of the pole but experts in First Nations culture say that the lowest figures on the pole are often the places of honor.
- And the most trivial trivia: According to Hollywood insiders, Clint Eastwood did his own stunts, including climbing the “Totem Pole” (actually it’s a rock spire), at Monument Valley during the filming of The Eiger Sanction.
Traveling to Alaska soon? This is the guide you need!
RELATED
- If you’re a history buff, stop at these Midwest living history museums
- 20 things we wish we knew before RVing to Alaska
##RVT1154