Earlier this week, we had an owner in one of our RV Facebook groups ask what the difference between the two types of anode rods is.
The aluminum anode rod will corrode slower than magnesium; however, they don’t protect the water heater as well, depending on the water. The magnesium anode rod will give off a rotten egg smell at times. You need to change it if that occurs. Both have their pros and cons.
Both will leave some deposits in the bottom of the water heater. These need to be flushed out when you change the rods. Make sure to use a flush wand to remove all the settlement from the bottom of the tank. I want you to think about it like sand on a river bed. Unless you disturb it with a flush wand, it will not come out on its own.
Here is a short video showing what was removed during a water heater service on a 2-year-old unit.
DIY product links to prevent water heater explosions:
Common replacement parts
- Anode Rod for RV Water Heater Suburban
- Suburban 520900 Replacement Electric Water Heater Element Kit
- Suburban 232259 Electrical Element Switch – SW Series
- Suburban 232282 Switch Assembly
- SUBURBAN MFG 232306 Water Heater Thermostat Switch
- Pressure Relief Valve 1/2 inch
- Pressure Relief Valve 3/4 inch
- Water Heater Cam Lock
- Suburban 070874 Grommet, Black
- Pilot Assembly 161156 For Suburban SW
Water heater tools
- All Metal RV Water Heater Tank Rinser
- Pressure Valve Remover
- Heating Element Socket
- Anode/Element Wrench
- Screw-in Element Wrench
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Thank you,
Dustin
##RVDT2333
We normally change the rod in our water heater at least every two years. I now know from this article about the rotten egg smell we got not too long ago. I thought it might have been the electric element since I had not serviced it from the time it was new. I was glad I checked it as it was badly corroded. I’ll probably be replacing the element every two years as well.
Thank you, Dustin! I appreciate you sharing this information!
Fyi to Kim. Another page that was skewed left. Switching to Landscape “fixed” the problem for the duration of typing this fyi. 🙂 But as soon as I left the comment box, the page “jumped” left. Will make sure my cache is emptied next.
Most water in the Southwest is not fit to drink…let alone run through a water heater…therefor a six pack of anode rods is in order..along with a portable water softener.
We just bought a portable water softener and it sure makes a difference. We no longer get those pesky calcium stone deposits that clog our faucet and toilet water lines so we don’t have to clear the lines and screens all the time. Money well spent, We got this one from Amazon : H&G lifestyles Portable Water Softener for RV 16,000 Grains with Water Hose, 3/4″ Brass Fittings
I use this water harness map from USGS (United States Geological Survey) to help determine which anode rod to use in what areas of the US.
https://www.usgs.gov/media/images/map-water-hardness-united-states
Magnesium anode rods are expected to work better with soft water. Aluminum anode rods are appropriate with hard water and a high PH, but like what Dustin mentioned, Aluminum anode rods don’t protect the water heater as well as Magnesium, depending on the water.
We err on the side of caution and always use a Magnesium anode rod. We may need to change it more often in hard water areas, but at least we know our hot water heater is better off for it.
We camped in Florida and the water stunk so bad i thought we had a skunk onboard.
took out the rod and smell went away. Water heater was 14 years old when we sold it. Never had a leak. Was it REALLY necessary?