By Russ and Tiña De Maris
Like many RVers, we suffered through holding tank leaks on a variety of RVs. One memorable occasion, when parked on a slanted post office parking lot, we found the top of our holding tank leaked. Our BLACK water holding tank. Embarrassing, to say the least; difficult to fix, an understatement.
We’ve tried all sorts of tank repair nostrums, to a variety of results, usually disappointing. Those that have worked (for our black tank disaster) were complicated and posed major safety issues. Others often just peeled off or didn’t hold. We’ve now tried a new flexible holding tank repair, and we’re really jazzed.
Dreary dribble issue

Our current dreary dribble issue made itself known when we were preparing to dump tanks. Under the trailer, a stream about the size of a pencil point was splooshing down on the gravel parking pad.
Thank heavens this wasn’t a manifestation of horrifying black water, just the ghastly gray water. Just where the stream started wasn’t clear, as it trailed across the rig’s underbelly.
We ended up cutting a large area of the coroplast to find the source. Right there, in a corner, right down at the bottom of the tank, was a minute but prolific crack.
Being “on the road,” there’s never a “good time” for something like this to happen. We were parked at a fairly forgiving relative’s place, so we had some breathing room to get the situation fixed. By dumping the tank, we were able to slow the flow, but the issue was how to fix it?
Some other stuff works—but a lot doesn’t
The last tank repair we undertook was a major issue. A crack along the top of a different rig’s black tank stretched nearly 40” and allowed the flat, thinnish top of the tank to separate from the tank walls. If we overfilled the tank or, in our point of discovery, got off-level, then the contents would spill right out and into the fiberglass insulation-stuffed belly space.
For that repair, we worked with a product called Plasti-Mend. That stuff is a resin substance that melts into the existing plastic and effects a new repair. It worked great! Trouble is, the stuff emits highly toxic fumes and requires the user to wear a NIOSH (National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health) approved respirator when anywhere near the stuff. We didn’t have that kind of equipment with us, and visions of trying to apply the stuff overhead just didn’t work.
We’d faced similar “small cracks” in other holding tanks. That was a few years back, and then we’d tried commercially available “holding tank repair kits” that promised stellar results.
Their definition of stellar and ours were light-years apart. We needed something that really worked, didn’t require special safety equipment and would be quickly available.
We ran into some flexible holding tank repair material we’d never heard of: West System® G/flex epoxy. Initially designed for marine use, we found good things reported about it.
“Resist a peel or delamination”

What sets G/flex apart from other repair potions is its ability to stick to just about any sort of plastic (more on that in a second) and its elasticity after the repair is cured.
When your RV is rattling down those bumpy roads, if the repair material doesn’t “give,” then something’s gonna give—typically the repair itself.
G/flex, says the manufacturer, is formulated to elongate up to 30%. When the repair twists, expands, contracts, or vibrates, G/flex hangs on tenaciously. “This helps it,” says West Systems, “resist a peel or delamination from starting.”
Well, believe us, we’ve been down the road of peel and delaminations with other tank repair compounds.
G/flex is also suitable for tanks other than ABS, commonly found as black and gray water reservoirs. G/flex will also stick to polyethylene plastic—think fresh water holding tanks. These guys can be a bearcat to repair, but G/flex will work on both LDPE and HDPE materials.
Oh, did you say you poked a hole in your fiberglass canoe, your plastic roof carrier, etc.? Look to G/flex.
How we stifled our drizzle—prep work…
Here’s the lowdown on how we used this flexible holding tank repair material to stifle the gray water drizzle in our lives.
After we tracked down the actual source of the leak (that little bitty crack in the corner), we cleaned up the mess. We rubbed and scrubbed the holding tank with a cloth and cleaner to expunge the ick that’s associated with gray water. With the tank empty (and drains blocked inside to prevent accidental water intrusion), we prepped the repair site.
West Systems suggests that when working with ABS or PVC, prep work includes using an “appropriate solvent.” They don’t specify what solvent, but we used alcohol. Don’t use a laundered rag; better to use white paper towels.
Why the difference? Rags may leave traces of fabric softener on the repair area, which could create adhesion issues.
Follow up by making a better grip surface by sanding with 80-grit sandpaper. Dust off and ensure the area is dry.
While you can purchase large quantities of G/flex, we found that a little more than one “set” of G/flex 655 syringes worked well. Yes, the stuff is an epoxy, and the double one-ounce syringes spit out equal portions of the two-goop poop.
A small paper plate with a plastic utensil worked well for the mixing surface. Two minutes of mixing made the G/flex ready to apply. With a pot life of more than an hour, you don’t have to be in a big hurry to do the fixing.
… and application

After we applied a layer of the mixed epoxy onto the repair area, we added a layer of plastic window screen, just for good measure. Working with rubber gloves helps you keep your paddies out of the mess.
With the fiberglass in place, we molded a bit more G/flex over the fiberglass.
The cure time is about 7 hours. Sad to say, before our “cure” could be effected, we goofed. A small amount of water ran down the drain. The next day, when we put a big amount of water in the tank, we found a tiny drip of water from the repair area. Rats!
So we drained the tank, dried everything out, and between what was left of our first ounce of unused G/flex and a bit from a second syringe, we recoated the repair area in earnest. An overnight cure proved all that was required. A refilled tank leaked nary a drop.
2,000-mile test coming up
How will the G/flex repair hold up to the rigors of the road? We’ll be putting it to the test shortly. We have close to 2,000 miles to cover before we return to home base. Will this flexible holding tank repair material prove to be truly flexible and watertight? We’ll report back with our findings.
West System G/flex 655 is sold on Amazon.
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RVDT2850



thank you. hope I never need it haha
Sounds good. Add to Amazon order.
Another useful article, thanks. Will add to the ever-growing items to haul along the roadways.
Looking forward to reading about the final test of your repair.
I will wait for the proof in months. Having tried repairs of a former RVs holding tank, piss is brutal corrosive and ate through at least ten repairs I attempted. Just when thought it works, weeks later drip drip drip. Fabrics, epoxies, glue, patches, Flex seal, caulking, etc none could withstand pee after a month. Short of having a plastic welder patch it, I traded it in!
Did you tell the place you traded in that you had a leak ?? Or is a new owner cursing the dealer ??
Hope you’re not peeing in your grey tank. This article covered repair of their grey tank.
I pee in the grey tank. Have to: Black tank is too small for two weeks of boondocking.
Never had a tiny tank leak. Had a big tank leak once though. I was on a very well-designed concrete dump pad with a ground-level drain (as opposed to elevated). When I pulled the handle for the black tank, the dump valve assembly pulled off the tank! The entire contents of the tank emptied onto my legs, arms, and the concrete pad. My tank-rinse hose was already hooked up, so I turned it on full blast and rinsed me and the dump pad off for 15 minutes. That pad design really saved me because everything flowed right into the drain. I had been kayak fishing, so was wearing a swimsuit and water sandals. And I used a rope from my kayak to tie the valve up. All’s well that ends well!
No gray tank issues but twice for black tank. 35 years ago in a KOA in Montana noticed flies near my drain pipe. Not good. Leaking just before the outlet valve. Lots of duct tape held everything in until I got home. Another time, went into the trailer in the spring and got a terrible smell. Seems someone forgot three potatoes in a cupboard. That cleaned up okay but same smell a few years later. Tore the basement apart in the 5th wheel and didn’t find the issue. Seems the black tank had developed a leak. Called an RV Proctologist who did repairs. He had to drop the plastic cover so had the valves changed at the same time as they were sticking. It was a father and son team. He was a huge man..
…and amazed that he got under the trailer but got it all fixed. Several years later everything is still holding together. I highly recommend mobile rv repair people.
Has anyone thought of using a plastic electric welder, along with the appropriate ABS, LDPE, and HDPE plastic rods? Seems like it should work just fine, even for the corrosive black tank…. [Such as this one on Amazon: JOUNJIP Standard Plastic Welding Kit- UL Certified Welder 80W- Professional Grade Plastic Repair Kit for Automotive Car Bumper, Kayak, Tank Repair.] Thoughts?
2,000 miles is nothing for many of us. The winter trip is 9 weeks away from home, then 4 weeks in June, and 4-8 weeks in the fall.
If it doesn’t last it’s just to make it home where the tank would be replaced. I’ll be buying a couple of syringes when we get home.