Friday, June 2, 2023


Residential-type vs. absorption refrigerators in an RV

Dave Solberg is a leading expert in the RV industry and author of the “RV Handbook” as well as the Managing Editor of the RV Repair Club. Today he discusses refrigerators in RVs.

Residential/compressor-driven refrigerator versus RV/absorption refrigerator

There has been quite some discussion on residential versus RV refrigerators not only on but on almost every forum out there. So I thought I would climb up on my dunk tank and let everyone take a shot!

Residential refrigerators

I first saw the residential refrigerators pop up in the RV market back in the late 1990s, but only on the larger diesel rigs. The reason was, people were getting frustrated with the RV refrigerators that didn’t cool very well in extreme temperatures. Also, there was the fear of fires as well as the recalls, which we will discuss later.

When I was with Winnebago we did not go the residential route as the rig needed to be plugged for 120-volt power or have a huge battery bank, which we were not known for. Plus, our test results showed they did not hold up well when the RV was rolling down the road. The larger diesel, like the Monaco, Newmar, and American Series, had much nicer-riding air suspensions and large battery banks with four 6-volt batteries, inverters and more.

How the compressor-driven refrigerator works

A residential refrigerator uses an electrical compressor to compress the refrigerant inside. The compression results in the refrigerant raising its pressure while getting very hot and traveling up through the coils on the back outside of the refrigerator. Once the hot gas meets the cooler air in the room, it turns into a high pressure liquid. It then cools down as it passes through the expansion valve and passes through the evaporator inside the freezer and refrigerator. The refrigerant draws the heat from both areas and pulls it out. Then, as it gets hot again, it turns to a gas and travels to the compressor to start all over again.

The advantages of a residential refrigerator

The electrical compression method works better in hot temperatures and cools down faster when you are getting ready to take a trip. It also works better in high altitude, although I do not think this is a fair comparison. You need to be running on electricity or inverted battery power, so you can do the same with an RV refrigerator and it will run efficiently. So I don’t compare the propane operation versus 120 volt.

Residential refrigerators typically have more interior space as they have no condenser fins inside. They also take much less time to cool down before a trip, typically 2-3 hours.

A residential fridge is a completely sealed system with no open flame, and the refrigerant is not combustible if it does leak. They also do not require ventilation to the outside and do not need to be as level.

Typically a residential refrigerator is less expensive than absorption in smaller 8-cubic-foot models from discount appliance stores.

Disadvantages of a residential refrigerator

Probably a better reference would be issues you need to know about, as everyone’s situation can be a little different. If you are planning to remove your RV refrigerator and replace it with a residential model, make sure the residential one will fit in the door. Most are wider and deeper, and sometimes you will need to take out a large window or even the windshield to get it into the RV. Also make sure it fits in the existing compartment. It is easier for product managers to design cabinetry around the larger footprint of a residential model, especially with slide rooms. Older models might not have the walking space in the aisle for a deeper unit.

Who does warranty or repair work? I talked with my Winnebago contact and several service managers and they said that warranty work must be performed by an authorized appliance dealer – which is typically not the RV dealer. Also, if the unit needs to be removed, the appliance dealer will not touch it. So the RV dealer has to remove it and then the appliance dealer can work on it. Sometimes you get lucky and the repair is on the front of the refrigerator, but not often. However, my Winnebago contact said there are very few units that fail while under warranty.

You must have 120-volt power such as a campground source or generator, or a large battery bank with inverter. In the past this was more of an issue as battery technology was not what it is today. However, even with high amp hour batteries and even lithium ion and solar panels, you can’t boondock too long without needing to fire up the generator. Having said that, I did see some great gains in this aspect at the Hershey, PA, RV show. There are 200-watt panels that can be connected with more panels, and lithium ion batteries with amazing amp hour ratings that might make it through long boondocking days. But is the price worth it? Time will tell.

RV refrigerators

RV refrigerators are commonly referred to as absorption refrigerators and run off either 120-volt power or propane. Some smaller units also run off 12-volt power. Older models, up until the mid 1980s, did, as well. But both Norcold and Dometic went to 120-volt and propane only, as the 12-volt mode did little more than turning the unit off and leaving the door shut while draining the house batteries quickly.

Here is how an absorption refrigerator works

A rich solution of ammonia, water, hydrogen, and sodium chromate is kept in the absorber vessel and flows to the boiler, where it is heated by either a flame on propane, or a heat element on 120-volt power. The ammonia turns to a vapor and travels up the pump tube to the condenser fins at the top of the refrigerator on the outside. At this time, the water separates. As you can see by the diagram, the various components go to the evaporator in the freezer and through the condenser fins in the refrigerator, going through various changes in vapor versus liquid to flash and draw heat out of each section, similar to the residential refrigerator.

I’ve always maintained that I am a handyman, not an engineer or physics expert. I’m not even sure if physics is the right word, and I did have to use “spill chick” on that one. Plus, I have not stayed at a Holiday Inn Express for more than 4 years. So before you bombard the comments, it’s just a handyman’s overview for reference and not designed to be that specific. Thanks!

Lions, Fires and Bears (Recalls) – “Oh, my!”

Sorry, couldn’t resist. However, this is probably the highest-ranking internet RV topic other than maybe tires. So let’s address the elephant in the room. Both Norcold and Dometic have issued recall notices on their refrigerators. Here is what I have been able to find on both recalls.

The issue began when some units started leaking the rich solution from tubing coming off the absorber vessel due to a variety of reasons. Since the rich solution has hydrogen and ammonia, which are flammable, the open flame used in the propane mode could cause an ignited state. It is amazing how many articles have been written about the recall and what prompted them without any factual information. Several that I read claimed it was due to excess heat that weakened the propane line that caused a rupture and leak. Not true. The propane line is downstream of the gas valve and burner assembly and is not subjected to the heat of the cooling unit. Plus, most units have an excess flow valve in the POL connection at the tank or cylinder that will shut the flow off. The issue as stated above is a leak of the ammonia and hydrogen in the cooling unit tubing. We will address more of these “Fake News” issues later.


According to my sources at Dometic and their website, they initiated a voluntary recall on units built between 1997 to May 2003, then again for units built from 2003 to 2006. This included 1.6 million units and more than 90% of these units have been contacted for the recall. Dometic also claims that the recall was voluntary and they had no reported fires or casualties. The fix was a temperature sensor/shut off mounted to the upper cooling unit tube and container kit. It covers the burner assembly area to keep any leaks contained to that area, which has been incorporated to all newer designs. To find out if your unit is included in the recall or has been addressed, visit the recall page here.


Norcold initiated a recall on all units built from 1997-2010 which also incorporates a temperature sensor and shut off. Although nobody at Norcold will go on the record as to documented fires, I know from my time at Winnebago that there were cases of units that did have these issues. Norcold also does not list the number of units affected by the recall. However, the actual documented cases were very small and my Norcold contact, that asked to not be identified, stated it was less than .01% of units. Norcold recall information.

The Real Problem!

I have talked with several dealership service managers, RV manufacturer representatives, and even owners that had issues. The underlying theme seems to be the heat generated in the cooling unit. If the unit is operated in a normal condition, the cooling unit can reach temperatures of 300 degrees. However, if the unit is out of level 3 degrees side-to-side or 6 degrees front-to-back, the solution in the cooling unit cannot flow down the zig zag pipes. Thus, it sits and gets hotter and can reach temperatures over 800 degrees! This overheats the tube and literally burns off the powdercoat paint. Prolonged use in this condition can even weaken the metal and eventually cause it to crack.

Both Norcold and Dometic have redesigned the cooling unit so the rig does not need to be perfectly level. They have provided a bubble level to help identify what is good. As long as the bubble is half way in the ring, the rig is OK.

Talking with a design engineer from Norcold a few years ago, he indicated another issue is RV manufacturers stuffing loose fill insulation around the refrigerator cavity and getting too much in the vent cavity. This was confirmed a few times from seminar attendees that told me they had pulled out their RV refrigerator that had a clogged cooling unit. They found slightly charred wood and burnt insulation on the back side. Nothing should be in the vent area, which compounds the issue of overheating the cooling unit.

Plus, neither recall swaps out the cooling unit. Rather, they install a temperature senser up on the evaporator coils that will shut the unit off when it gets uncommonly hot, to eliminate the problem.

Advantages of absorption refrigerators

Probably the biggest advantage of an absorption refrigerator is the flexibility of either 120-volt power or propane. If you do a lot of boondocking or dry camping off the grid, it’s a great choice. And understanding how it works, performing some minor maintenance, and doing the little tips to make it run more efficient makes it my preferred type of refrigerator.

The RV refrigerator was more durable in the tests we conducted at Winnebago. However, there is no test data showing the durability of the residential models out in the real RV world.

Disadvantages of absorption refrigerators

As stated above, the RV refrigerator does have some efficiency issues in hot conditions. However, in my seminars I ask attendees about their refrigerators, and the largest majority have not had issues. There is more maintenance required such as cleaning out the burner assembly and checking the roof vent. However, that is only required once a year or longer.

Then there is the price. I have talked with owners that had a cooling unit get clogged and the replacement cost was more than $2000. A new unit was $3000. Or they could go to a discount store and get a residential model for under $1000.

The bottom line: If you understand how each type of refrigerator works and the efficiencies or inefficiencies as to your type of RVing, and understand that what works for some does not work for others, means it’s your choice.

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Dave Solberg
Dave Solberg
Dave Solberg is a leading expert in the RV industry and author of the “RV Handbook” as well as the Managing Editor of the RV Repair Club. He has been in the RV Industry since 1983 and conducts over 15 seminars at RV shows throughout the country.


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3 months ago

First off you DO NOT have to replace your fridge with a residential unit. I replaced the back of my absorption fridge “guts” with a residential conversion kit from JC Refrigeration in Shipshewana, In.
A more efficient residential fridge conversion is 12V, direct to the batteries so no need to go through an inverter. Less power usage as well.
My Norcold fridge never kept ice cream to a correct temperature, so this was a pleasant change with our residential conversion. We loved the size of our fridge, so no modifications needed to any cabinets.

I had a fire with my Norcold unit last year. Only the back of the fridge burnt and not the whole RV. I got lucky! I am not sure what started it, however my propane line was severed at the connection.
Bottom line is that there is much more to your article that you could have included to allow other RV’ers to make more informed choices on the topic of fridges, IMHO.

Tommy Molnar
3 months ago
Reply to  Leonard

The problem with the JC conversion is that you are still stuck with a small fridge because a lot of space at the rear of the fridge is taken up by the propane ‘works’.

3 months ago
Reply to  Tommy Molnar

I have the larger Norcold fridge box in my 5th wheel Montana, so zero issues with space. Although it is not as deep as a traditional residential fridge, I can easily go a week or more before we need groceries.
I stand by highly recommending JC fridge conversions! Better than another fridge fire, no?
FYI, we went with the 12v conversion for ease of operation and energy efficiency.

Last edited 3 months ago by Leonard
Tommy Molnar
3 months ago
Reply to  Leonard

Our Norcold RV fridge died last year when we were down in Houston. It was 106 degrees that day. We were unable to locate another RV fridge anywhere near where we were, and were desperate to get a new fridge – NOW. My wife found an AC fridge of the exact same size as our RV fridge at Lowe’s. It was ‘only’ $450 so we went for it. So far, we love it. It’s bigger inside than the Norcold was, makes great ice that doesn’t stick together in the container we keep ice in, and as a bonus, actually keeps ice cream frozen. We run it off an inverter and lithium batteries when boondocking. I would have preferred a 12v DC fridge but that wasn’t an option when looking for a fridge RIGHT NOW.

3 months ago
Reply to  Tommy Molnar

I hear you there! Ours died at a park in Alabama and went to Lowe’s to buy a little bar fridge to keep our necessities from spoiling. As long as you are happy, all good!

Richard Pendleton
3 months ago

My wife and I have been RVing for 50+ years and have used everything from ice chests to residential fridges. We have had a residential fridge for over 6 years now and would never go back to any other way.

3 months ago

How is it powered; shore power, generator, battery bank via inverter? Is it on all the time?

3 months ago
Reply to  Les

Hi Les,

We have had a residential fridge for four years and love it, but we are not “long term” boondockers. Our refrigerator runs on all sources you mention. While traveling it’s on the inverter with batteries being charged by the alternator. At a campsite with hookups…120V AC. When we do spend a night or so unplugged it is on the inverter but our auto gen start will kick in if the batteries run down to our preset level. We have a large 3 door fridge and we can get by on 2-3 hours a day of genset time with the inverter and AGM battery bank covering the rest of the time. Our inverter us wired to everything, not just the fridge.

3 months ago

Our old 120v/propane Dometic decided to work somewhere between occasionally and rarely. Bought a smallish 120v residential reefer to replace it. 12 volt DC units weren’t as popular at the time. The old Dometic must have seen us unloading the new one and has worked pretty good ever since. If and when we do replace it, it will be a 12v compressor model that can run when we are driving. Our propane is always off before the RV moves.

1 year ago

We’ve been RVing since 1994. Propane has never been a safety problem, nor have absorption fridges. We avoided the years that were mentioned above, as problem years for either Dometic or Norcold. Just lucky, I guess. Only problem I have experienced in all those years was control board failure. It was over 7 years old. Absorption fridges are more sensitive to ambient temperature so you will likely have to adjust the setting occasionally. Our preference is State & Nat’l Parks, so boondocking ability is helpful.

It takes a little time to become familiar with the operation & use. Buy one of the little battery operated fans to move the air around in the fridge section. It will even out the cycling & temp, both in the fridge or freezer. We removed the ice maker, in current RV, to make more room for items. We buy ice in bags and keep in a cooler.

David Mckenna
1 year ago

Of the 6,810 RV fires reported in one year,(2017) 953 (14%) were caused by the refrigerator, according to a report issued in 2020 by the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA). I think we can safely assume that the majority of those at fault were absorption refrigerators.
I am a retired safety professional, who has been a full time RVer for 11 years. I frequently boondock, so prefer the absorption refrigerator for it’s low amperage draw when operated on propane. However, I would not operate an absorption refrigerator without the protection provided by the Fridge Defend device made by ARP. It is the only solution I know of that prevents the overheating that can lead to fires or premature refrigerator failures.

RV Staff
1 year ago
Reply to  David Mckenna

Thank you for your helpful information, David. Here is a link to an article from Russ and Tina De Maris about the Fridge Defend: Stay safe, and have a great day! 🙂 –Diane

1 year ago

I replaced my cooling unit myself and it cost around $750. I am not in the refrigeration field, but am service technician for other electrical equipment. The new one works great.

Sam Sprott
1 year ago

JC Refrigeration up in Nappanee converted our Dometic RM-1350 to a 12V compressor and we love it. In sixty degree weather we had trouble getting low fifty and mid forty temps on the fridge set at five. We tried adding fans and the safety devise who’s name I don’t recall, all with no improvement. We now run mid thirties with the fridge set on three. JC submitted a claim to our extended warranty on the faulty unit and all over my deductible was covered. And this with no modifications to our beautiful Newmar cabinetry!

Gary Smith
1 year ago

I had my 2016 or so Dometic fridge spew yellow a couple of years ago. After much research I determined that my best option was to replace the cooling unit with an Amish built absorption unit. I did so and the total cost was about $750.

The most difficult part was reinstalling the refrigerator with just the help of my small framed wife. If I had to do it again I would 1, do it inside on the floor of my coach and 2, ask or hire someone a little stronger to help put it back into the cavity.

Michael Galvin, PhD
1 year ago

Another advantage of absorption 12 v is you can run the fridge while running down the road with propane off.

Tommy Molnar
1 year ago

We run down the road with our 120v/propane reefer on AC power running off our inverter. It actually works quite well and there’s not the propane worry.

Warren G
1 year ago

Great article! The traditional electric/gas absorption refrigerators seem to get a lot of criticism, but we’ve been happy for the most part with ours in our travel trailer. I’ve come to the conclusion that one type isn’t necessarily the best for all, as it depends on how you camp. We do a lot of no-hookup stays with just a portable solar suitcase, and are happy with our setup.

Victor Whitmore
1 year ago

I’m astounded that you did not mention 12V DC compressor fridges. The small highly efficient modern Danfoss-type compressors in these units make them the best alternative to absorption fridges. Since they are DC powered off the standard 12V house batteries, no invertor is needed to run them while underway or boondocking. The power draw is significantly lower than typical AC units so your battery capacity is stretched out many more hours. If I were to change out my 7 cubic foot absorption unit, i could replace it with one for these DC units and gain 3 more cubic feet of interior room in the same space as the old one.
I have heard only one “objection” to this upgrade. Some say these units are noisier. Yup the running compressor makes more noise than a small flame in the back. That really seems to be nit-picking as the Danfoss compressor is extremely quiet, and makes less noise than an AC unit.
I have no experience running DC fridges in a RV but did so in a boat for many years!

1 year ago


I think as time goes on and there are more of them out there, then the Danfoss fridges might be more of viable choice (or not). There’s another issue too and it’s the ability to get one serviced/repaired. Although I’m a, there may be some things I couldn’t do with these.

David Telenko
1 year ago
Reply to  Drew

Drew, I’ve had an ARB fridge freezer that I got over 10 years ago as a backup to my absorption refer on my 99 Winnabago. Also has been in my 06 jeep on every occasion & has operated flawlessly, sometimes even use it for parties on our patio! You mentioned there will be more of different brands out there! Well wait no longer as China has hit the market about 3 years ago with about the same specs, except they are China junk & have hurt the good Danfoss name. My ARB cost me $850.00 15 years ago & now you can a fridge freezer with that TYPE of China compressor for $350.00, Hmmm!

Marcy Beard
1 year ago

Victor, we agree, and we now have a DC fridge in our travel trailer. Our 2007 Jayco came with the standard propane/electric absorption fridge. In our quest to remove all propane from our living space, we converted it to a compressor (via a kit from JC Refrigeration). That sort of worked but also created problems including control board issues and lots of frost build-up. Finally we found a Unique brand DC “solar” fridge, and we love it.

Electricity usage numbers:
Original fridge when running on electricity = 5-6 kWh/day
Retrofitted fridge = 0.8-1.5 kWh/day
New DC compressor fridge = <0.4 kWh/day (very low on the scale of "things that use energy while boondocking")

I don't notice any noise issues, it is barely noticeable when it's running. We've done one defrost in the past year to remove a small amount of ice build-up. Zero issues so far in our travels around the west, although of course this is an experiment of one and it's still early in the process.

More details for anyone interested:

Joel Lefkowitz
1 year ago

How about some comments on the 12 V compressor type refrigerators that are designed for RV use. I have one in my Class B and am pleased with it. I obviously do not have a “large battery bank” to run it.

1 year ago

What about longevity of residential fridge in a moving vehicle. Vibration etc. takes a toll. Mfr warranty may be void if bouncing down the road breaks stuff. Let’s get the whole story. I’m not a fan of absorption but it’s worked well for us for numerous RVs

Tommy Molnar
1 year ago

I’m going to join the crowd here Dave, and thank you for an understandable, well written article about the subject I’ve been chasing for a couple of years. We almost jumped into a residential type fridge for our travel trailer. A mobile RV repair guy down in Texas couldn’t say enough good about them and wanted to install one for us. We didn’t do it. Then, a repair guy in Reno did a fine job of talking us out of it. Good for him . . . In over 25 years of RV’ing with the stock fridge (propane/120) we’ve had zero problems. And since we do probably 90% boondocking, the “old trusty” seems to be the way to go – for us.

Ernie Powell
1 year ago
Reply to  Tommy Molnar

Do you keep the temperature between 33-40 degree with that gas abortion fridge?

Tommy Molnar
1 year ago
Reply to  Ernie Powell

As a matter of fact, we do. Last summer we were forced to spend a night in Quartzsite where the temp was 120° when we arrived. The fridge was struggling to stay below 40° at that time. Otherwise it works fine. On this same Quartzsite stop, our ac could only bring the trailer temp down to a ‘crisp’ 90° after running all night. Ordinarily we wouldn’t be caught dead down south during the summer but we had no choice on this trip.

Scott Ellis
1 year ago

But wait. There is an entire third category not mentioned: compressor refers *designed for RV’s*. They are drop-in replacements for the standard Dometic/Norcold opening and use surprisingly little power. They might not be the solution for the rolling-mansion market, but one will go into my truck camper when the Dometic dies, if not before.

1 year ago

Very well-written and informative article. Good job Dave. I now have a residential fridge in my DP. There was definitely a learning curve of what worked best to conserve battery power when overnighting at Walmart or boondocking for a couple of days. We do have the use of four 6V golf cart batteries and a 2000 watt inverter. We never had a problem with the absorption fridges in our first two motorhomes. Turned them on before the first trip in the Spring and shut them down in the fall, they served us very well. To choose between the two, we like the size, 20 cube, and the cooling of the residential fridge with a generous size freezer and fast-acting ice maker.

Michael Roach
1 year ago

Very well written article that us handy types can easily understand, Thanks Dave !
I extensively boondock and the only issues I’ve had have been at high altitude where there was not enough oxygen to keep the propane lit. Around 10,000 feet or higher.This usually happens in inclement weather. ( high humidity conditions ? ) When in extreme heat it helps to keep the fridge on the shady side of the rig if possible, or put up a tarp or something to shade the fridge backside.

Steve Comstock
1 year ago

Thank you, Dave! Your well-thought-out article answers the questions many of us have had on the operation of these fridges, particularly the absorption variety. This is the type of fridge I have and in 5 years since new, has never had a problem. It cools rapidly, stays cold, and offers more options for dry-camping. Obviously, there are advantages to both types of fridges and you’ve stated those succinctly in your article; a perfect addition to RV Travel!

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