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Travel Drive for phones and tablets

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By Chris Guld, GeeksOnTour.com

Expand your Phone's Storage with a Wireless Drive
A Smartphone and a Wireless Drive is a Complete Computing System

You probably know about Travel Drives for storing computer data files, photos, videos, music, etc. We call them by various names, Thumb drives, Flash drives, USB drives, Data Sticks, and more. But we’ve always needed a computer with a USB port in order to use them.

Now you can get a wireless drive that will work with your smartphone or tablet, Android or iOS! There has never been a more fully appointed office that fits in the palm of your hand! We did a Beginner’s Lesson on this drive, in Episode 80 of the Geeks on Tour What Does This Button Do? show, May 8, 2016. You can watch the entire 45 minute show, or use this link to jump to the point where we demonstrate using the drive with an iPad and then an Android phone.

The drive comes in 16GB, 32, 64, 128, and even 200GB storage size. Wow! Think about it – you can have all the power and all the storage capacity of a laptop computer, without the laptop! With this setup, there are many things you can do:

  1. Have your complete library of music, videos, and photos with you. Even full-length movies if you want entertainment. You can stream them to your phone or tablet for listening/viewing anywhere.
  2. Be able to back up all photos taken by your phone or tablet. The App that comes with the drive has an option for backing up all photos and videos. All you have to do is check the box to turn it on and from then on, anytime the drive is nearby and turned on, it will check for new photos and make copies.
  3. Carry all your important documents that you may need for Doctors, Lawyers, etc., and copy them to/from your phone or tablet to the professional’s computer (this is a regular USB drive as well).
  4. Carry the complete library of Geeks on Tour’s tutorial videos to watch at your leisure on any smartphone or tablet – without an Internet connection!

We use the Sandisk Wireless Flash drive and its accompanying App for both Android and iPhone/iPad. We bought from Amazon. The 32GB model is $29.99, and the 64GB is $39.99.

What can we do about vandalized public property?

Dear RV Shrink:
rvshrinkOne of the comments someone made under last week’s column caught my attention.

We have not spent much time in campgrounds during the past 30 years. Now that we have retired, that has all changed. One thing we notice constantly is the disrespect to public property. We do not remember so much blatant graffiti, vandalism, defacing and littering. It is sad to think that so many people find pleasure in degrading infrastructure for no apparent reason. —Bewildered in Butte

Dear Bewildered:
Graffiti is nothing new, but I agree we have moved way beyond the obscene bathroom stall scratch art stage. More parks now use reflective metal in bathrooms because they cannot afford to continually replace mirrors. Try finding your face with a razor while staring into a poorly reflective, graffiti scratched metal plate.

We all suffer because of the actions of a minority of people I can only describe as “puppy minded.” They must have the same mental capacity of a puppy that insists on chewing shoes.

As a long-distance hiker I know that this tendency is not exclusive to the front country. I am amazed at how many people spend the time and energy to get into remote country and have so little respect for not only trail and signage work, but the landscape itself. You will find trailhead kiosk displays scratched beyond recognition, gates crushed, signage broken and trash scattered to the wind.

We can only combat this behavior by being good stewards ourselves and overwhelming this deviate behavior with spontaneous voluntary service. Picking up trash is our main contribution. Most of the abuse you encounter is already beyond repair.

A sad state of affairs, but I assure you there are hundreds of good stewards for every poor one. You just never see the evidence of them because they practice LNT (Leave No Trace).

Depending on the campground host, or the management philosophy, you can find a campsite pristine or trashed. But in many cases a campsite needs some tender loving care after the last tenants have vacated.

When you leave a site, consider how you would like to find it on arrival. —Keep Smilin’, RV Shrink

#RVS742

Video: An RV technician’s tool guide for RVers

  Certified RV technician Chris Dougherty shows what he believes are the best tools to carry in an RV to deal with routine maintenance and emergency repairs. You’ll be mighty happy to have these along if ye ol’ RV or tow vehicle starts causing you mechanical trouble.

##rvt744

It’s time to clean your fresh water tank

By Russ and Tiña De Maris

If your RV has been sitting “in the mothballs” all winter and you’re readying it for travel season, don’t neglect the fresh water tank. It only takes about one mouthful of “yecchh!” water to convince you that water can go stale. What’s to do? Well, this is the same trick we recommend when you buy an RV prior to using it.

water-742You’ll need to completely drain your fresh water holding tank, and run the water pump until all water is out of the system. If your water heater is “in the circuit” (meaning not winterized, but holding water) drain it too, using the drain cock on the heater. Of course, you’ve shut it off first.

Determine the fresh water tank’s capacity — easy if you have the rig’s owner manual. If not, locate the fresh water tank and measure it. Break down the feet and inches to decimals, i.e., a 4′ 6″ run is 4.5′. Multiply the height, width, and depth figures to come up with total cubic feet of capacity. Now multiply the capacity times 7.48051945, which is the conversion factor for cubic feet to gallons.

With gallon capacity on hand, drag out the household bleach — NOT the scented variety. In a clean container (a one-gallon cleaned juice jug is ideal) pour 1/4 cup of bleach for every 15 gallons of tank capacity. Top off the jug with clean, fresh water.

Be sure your fresh water drain valve is closed (and the water heater if applicable), and pour this bleach solution into the holding tank. Now completely fill the fresh water holding tank with clean, fresh water. At this point if you can, move your RV around the block to thoroughly swish and mix the solution in the tank.

Now turn on the water pump and pump the bleach solution through all the plumbing. You’ll know when you’ve pumped enough as you should smell the bleach solution at the fixture. Let solution stand in the plumbing and fresh water tank overnight. Next day, drain the fresh water tank (and again, water heater if applicable), and refill the fresh tank with clean, fresh water. If you’re concerned about the chlorine taste or odor, mix up a solution of 1 quart of cider vinegar for every five gallons of tank capacity and dump it in the fresh tank, repeating the same process you did for the bleach job.

#rvt742

Reminder: Tighten your (hidden) air conditioner bolts

By Russ and Tiña De Maris

As Federal Highway Administration funds get tighter, the condition of America’s roads reflects this budgetary bulimia: Potholes and rough roads abound, and you and your RV are the recipients. Those washboard workouts are not only hard on your dentures, but your RV gets thoroughly rattled as well.

One area not often thought about: the RV air conditioner. Sitting up there on the roof, all by its little lonesome, the AC unit is subject to vibration and rattle like everything else. And buried under the “inside cover” are four bolts that hold all that machinery tight on the roof. Those bolts, sadly enough, can get shaken (not stirred) by rough roads and vibration from running. In time they can loosen, and may first make you aware of the situation by allowing the passage of precipitation from the roof to fall into your rig. Not a happy situation!

What’s to do? Remove the inside housing of your air conditioner and carefully check the tension of the four bolts that hold the unit in place. Torque them down carefully and live without rain another day. After weeks of frustration, and long days with the rig covered with a blue tarp, the light came on: We torqued ours and a couple of days later, Maw Nature put it to the test: Rain, rain, rain, all night long, and not a drop inside. Now the family RV tech feels like an old fool, but at least he’s a dry old fool.

#rvt742

Coffee, tea, and advertising in Small Town USA

By Chuck Woodbury

A guy, a stranger, walks into Kelcy’s Cafe in Tehachapi, Calif., and asks, “How would you like 100 free ceramic coffee mugs?”

cup-742 Then he walks into two other cafes in the small town and asks the same thing. They all say yes. Free is good.

Then he knocks on doors around town offering business people ad messages on the cups. He sells six ads. He orders the 300 coffee mugs. After awhile, the finished cups come back. He delivers them to the cafes. They place them on tables. In them, they serve coffee and tea and other hot beverages. Theoretically, the locals and tourists read the ads, respond once in awhile, and everybody is happy.

The guy, meanwhile, pays for the cups with the ad revenue and keeps what’s left over as profit. Then he heads down the road to the next down and repeats the process.

table-742Well, this is pretty much what happened awhile back in Tehachapi, a once thriving railroad town in the shadow of a thousand giant windmills in the Tehachapi mountain range midway between Bakersfield and Mojave.

The cafe looks like it has not changed in 50 years. Same with the adjacent formal dining room, where the cups with the advertising are placed on tables right along with silverware and neatly rolled paper napkins. Locals out for a night on the town dine here and probably high school kids on prom night, too. The tables are not bare, but no tablecloths. Instead, they’re plastered with ad messages as you can see in the picture.

Stop by Kelcy’s. The food is good. The waiters are friendly. And check out the clock above the counter — ads there, too.

This was originally published in January, 2015

How to care for your RV slideout

By Russ and Tiña De Maris

How do you keep your slideout happy? A little bit of maintenance and forethought will go a long way to making sure your RV experience doesn’t get unhappy when your slideout room won’t slide like it should.

slideout-smFirst, when opening or closing a slideout room, check the floor. Sand, grit, or other “foreign” substances can get under the slideout and scratch the flooring. Doesn’t make Mama happy, and if she ain’t happy–well, you know the rest. Likewise, before retracting the slideout, check up topside. Branches, leaves, bird nests, all manner of odd things can wind up on the outside of your slideout, even if you have a retracting slideout awning. If this “junk” gets trapped in the retraction process, you can be in a world of hurt.

Read and follow the instructions provided with your rig. Some hydraulic slide mechanism builders suggest you keep the extend/retract button pushed for a few seconds after the slide has made the full travel–somehow keeping the hydraulic system pressurized. Others simply tell you to get off the button when the room is in or out. Others are “death” on changing room movement direction unless the slideout has gone full cycle. In other words, if you’re in the middle of retracting the room and change your mind, they don’t want you to try and extend the room until after you’ve retracted it all the way.

In terms of periodic maintenance, seals certainly need to be looked after. Seals can dry out, leaving you without protection from the elements. What does your manufacturer recommend? There are some commercial nostrums available, but we’d suggest you be careful of something that contains silicone. We’ve been on this lectern before, silicone can dry rubber out.

What about the slide mechanism? Here’s where things can get contrary. Nearly everyone agrees that slides should be lubricated regularly, it’s just what lube to use is where it gets dicey. One prominent RV technician says you should never use a “wet” lube like WD-40. He feels that the lube may well attract dust and dirt to the mechanism. Others suggest using silicon sprays. Ach! Again, what’s your manufacturer recommend? If you’re under warranty, best to use what they call for in case you develop a problem that they’ll need to fix.

Hydraulic reservoirs should be checked regularly. If they’re low, you’ll need to find out why. Is there a system leak? Follow the lines from the hydraulic fluid reservoir through the pump, and out to the actuating cylinders. If you need to ‘filler’up’ then again, be sure to use what the factory calls for. Some slideouts call for transmission fluid, others specialty hydraulic fluids. Know what you need before you pour!

Finally, this golden rule applies to ALL types of slideouts. KEEP THE BATTERY CHARGED! There’s nothing more difficult than being in the middle of nowhere and having that slide refuse to go back in because your battery is low or kaput. Cranking that slideout back in by hand is a long, and slow process.

#rvt743

Trailer hitching: Keep your rig where it belongs

By Russ and Tiña De Maris

For a “heart sinking into your stomach” experience, there’s nothing like looking in the rearview mirror and finding your travel trailer isn’t there. Friends of ours recall one such occasion when theirs “got loose” and rolled off the road and into the brush. Theirs was a “good” experience of a runaway trailer—nobody got hurt and the damage was minimal. But every year innocent folks are killed by runaway trailers. How can you ensure your travel trailer trip comes off without a hitch? Start with safety at the hitch.

The correct equipment is at the heart of the matter. The hitch ball must not only be the correct physical size to match the trailer hitch, but needs to be able to tote the weight of the trailer. There are three different sizes of hitch balls: 1 7/8 inches, 2 inches and 2 5/16 inches.

hitch-742
Illustration courtesy maricopa.gov

The smallest might be found on a lightweight pop-up trailer; the 2-inch balls are typically used on mid-sized trailers, and the largest balls—well, sure enough—on large trailers. The large size hitch balls have different weight capacities, and you need to be sure the capacity of the ball is greater than the total weight of your loaded trailer. You MUST match the size of the hitch ball on your tow rig to the size required by the coupler. Going with too small a hitch ball is to invite a disaster.

Hitch balls attach to the tow vehicle with a nut and lock washer. The larger the ball, the greater the torque required for a safe attachment. The hitch ball mounts through a drawbar and the thickness of the drawbar determines how long the shank, or threaded portion of the hitch ball, needs to be. Rule of thumb: At least one thread should be visible beneath the lockwasher and nut when the ball is installed in the drawbar.

When installing a hitch ball the philosophy of “just throwing a wrench on it and tugging” isn’t a safe one. If in doubt, have a hitch shop attach your tow ball. Trailer couplers need to be kept lubricated with grease. We prefer lithium grease, and we keep our hitch ball greased, and we cover it with a ball cover when not in use.

WHEN HOOKING UP, you’ll need to spot the ball directly under the trailer coupler. Set the coupler in the open or loose position and make sure the clamp inside the coupler is open. If you haven’t hitched up in a while, or the coupler isn’t well lubricated, the coupler clamp may not open properly. Lower the coupler onto the hitch ball. Some couplers have levers that slide shut to indicate the clamp has closed down over the ball. Don’t take it for granted. A physical inspection—looking or feeling to make sure the coupler clamp is securely clamped around the bottom of the hitch ball—is essential. If it isn’t, the only thing holding your trailer and tow rig together is gravity, and a bump in the road will break you loose in a hurry.

Next, connect the safety chains securely to the trailer hitch or tow rig by crossing them underneath the coupler in an X formation. That is, the trailer’s left chain should attach to the tow rig to the right of the hitch and vice versa. Safety chains should only be long enough to allow for tight turns; if they are longer they may not work if there is a breakaway. Don’t allow the safety chains to drag the ground. Not only can you damage the chains, but chains dragging the pavement can produce sparks – which in turn, can set fire to dry grass.

Hooking up the breakaway switch lanyard is critical. If the trailer does break loose and the safety chains fail, the breakaway switch system should activate the trailer brakes, stopping the trailer. Make sure the lanyard is long enough for tight turns—we’ve watched one RVer lock up the trailer brakes pulling a tight corner after an improperly routed lanyard pulled the safety switch open.

The breakaway system only works if the trailer battery is charged and the brakes are adjusted properly. You can test this in an empty section of a parking lot. With your rig hitched up, pull the breakaway switch open and drive forward with a spotter walking beside the rig. The trailer brakes should literally lock up if adjusted properly.

#rvt742

Duped at the dump station?

rvshrinkDear R.V. Shrink:
We enjoyed your column on investing in gas. We don’t go that far, but we do like the instant gratification of not having to pay for services that are often free. We use every travel app available to find inexpensive camping, dump stations, gas and propane. We recently went to a Loves Truck Stop in California that our app said, “Free dump with a fill-up.” After filling up we found that the dump costs $5, with or without a fill-up. I feel it was a bait and switch tactic. Do you agree they should honor the promise you find on their website? Maybe I am being petty? Just down the expressway we found a free state dump station at the next rest area. —Down five bucks in the dumps

Dear Down:
I think I see your mistake. Correct me if I am wrong, but I have only made a mistake once in my life. I thought I was wrong once, but I was mistaken. Having used both Loves dump stations and many dump Apps, I know that the apps are not always correct. You should always check with management before assuming the app is correct. Businesses change management and policies all the time. Apps may not always be up to date. They are great if used as a reference, but not gospel.

It seems I have had free dumps at Loves in the past, but not recently. They do offer a very convenient island that has a dump, water and propane all in the same location. A convenient pit stop can be well worth five bucks. They often have good fuel pricing, so a single stop can be very efficient. You can’t expect them to honor old or out of date information, but often they will with the least bit of complaint. My suggestion would be to check with the attendant before proceeding. Armed with up-to-date information, you should be able to make the best decision. Next time you are down in the dumps, be sure to use sanitizer. —Keep Smilin’, R.V. Shrink

Fifth wheel tire wearing on inside and smoking

By Chris Dougherty
Certified RV Technician

Dear Chris,
I have a question about a tire on a 5th wheel we own. The back left tire wears on the inside. We bought the RV less than a year ago. Camped in it a few times at local area parks. Noticed the back left tire was worn on the inside. Bought a new tire, camped a few times and just got back home last night and noticed the same tire was worn badly on the inside. My husband also noticed on the way home, smoke coming from the tire, got out and checked, but said the tire was not hot.-Joy

Dear Joy,
Thanks for writing in. Sorry to hear about your problem. It should be looked at professionally as soon as possible. For just one tire/wheel position to be exhibiting these symptoms, I would think that it could be a hub/bearing problem. If the bearing has worn or broken, and/or the hub is loose, the wheel when weighted will tilt outward and backward causing this kind of scuffing. This is dangerous and doing damage the more you use it.

There are other possibilities, which include worn spring bushings, loose or broken axle bolts, the trailer could be overloaded (which it still could be, leading to the bearing failure), mis-aligned axle (but this would likely cause the other tire to show wear as well). and a bent axle or spindle, especially if that wheel hit something hard.

You best option would be to get it to you RV or trailer repair center for diagnosis and repair.

How to watch YouTube videos using little bandwidth

By Chuck Woodbury,
editor, RVtravel.com

For many RVers who travel a lot or even full-time, Internet access is hit and miss. For RVers who want to be online whenever they want to, the choice is often a cell phone used as a WiFi hotspot, a mobile hotspot, or the Wifi at an RV park or other public place, like McDonald’s or Starbucks.

At an RV park, the access speed is often very slow, making it difficult and frustrating to watch a YouTube video. Many RV parks also ask their guests to not watch videos: there is only so much bandwidth to go around and if someone hogs it watching a video, other campers may not be able to get on or if they do at a snail’s pace.

RVers who get online with a plan from Verizon, AT&T or other carriers are often very limited in the amount of data they can use. For them, watching a video takes just too much bandwidth. So they seldom watch.

In this video, I show you how to watch YouTube videos using very little bandwidth. There are two ways to do it, and I show you both. I recorded this at standard definition, so watching won’t use much data.
#rvt742