Tuesday, January 31, 2023


RV Electricity – Just Ask Mike (J.A.M.): Battery bank accounts – deposits and withdrawals

By Mike Sokol

Welcome to my J.A.M. (Just Ask Mike) Session, a weekly column where I answer your basic electrical questions. If you’re a newbie who’s never plugged in a shore power cord (or ask – what’s a shore power cord?), or wonder why your daughter’s hair dryer keeps tripping the circuit breaker, this column is for you. Send your questions to Mike Sokol at mike (at) noshockzone.org with the subject line – JAM.

Dear Mike,
Later in the year when it gets below 40 degrees out I run the camper off a generator. A small ceramic heater and the furnace keeps it nice and warm. Problem starts when the generator runs out. Something sucks the life out of my batteries, presumably the furnace. Checked the battery, no problems. Even bought a new deep cycle. Still only lasts about 45 minutes running the furnace off the battery. I bought a gauge and hooked it to the battery and unplugged the generator and watched it go from 100 percent to 90 to 80 in 5 minutes. I know this shouldn’t happen when “boondocking” but it does. Any help would be appreciated. —Frank

From Glen Thompson: You mention a small ceramic heater. Is the ceramic heater plugged into the inverter? That would kill the battery in a very short time.

From Mike Sokol: Good point. I had first assumed he was running the small space heater on shore power or generator since most pop-up campers I’ve seen don’t have inverters to make 120-volts AC from the battery. But maybe he does have an inverter that will power a space heater or microwave from the battery.

Even at a low 600-watt setting a portable space heater would drain a single 100 amp-hour battery down to 50% of its capacity in 30 minutes or so. That’s because a 100 amp-hour battery only has about 1,200 watt-hours of power. And if you limit the discharge down to 50% of capacity for best life, that’s only 600 watt-hours of power available from a fully charged 100 amp-hour battery while boondocking. So you can see that if your battery only has 600 watt-hours of usable power, a 600 watt space heater will use it all up in an hour of running. Turn the space heater on the high 1,200 watt setting, and you’ll only be able to run it for 1/2 hour. That’s because 600 / 1200 = 1/2 and 1/2 of 60 minutes is 30 minutes of run time.

Battery bank accounts
Okay, I think it’s time I show you my internal thought process of charging and discharging batteries in RVs. While you may have read some of my articles about converting 12-volt amperage to 120-volt amperage and back, there’s an even easier way to calculate how long a battery will last powering an appliance. So if we keep everything in watts (the amount of wattage something draws) and hours (how long that something is running), it’s much easier to understand why even a small electric space heater can drain a big battery pretty rapidly.

A storage battery is just like a bank account. But instead of depositing and withdrawing money, you’re depositing and withdrawing watt-hours of power in and out of the battery. So a few quick definitions and we’re off to keeping our battery bank out of the red and not bouncing checks.

The only thing you really need to understand is that a 100 amp-hour battery can provide up to 100 amps of current for 1 hour. (Get it? Amp-hours?) Now 100 amps times 12 volts is equal to 1,200 watts, which tells us that a standard 12-volt house battery listed as 100 amp-hours of capacity is really 1,200 watt-hours of capacity.

But we really don’t want to empty our battery down to 0 watt-hours since that shortens its service life considerably. That’s why you’ll hear not to discharge a battery to below 50% of its capacity. That tells us that we only have 600 watt-hours in the account to work with. Okay, we’re done with the main calculations for now.

Writing those checks
Yes, your mom and dad probably told you not to write checks you can’t cover with money in your account, and the same is true for your battery. Every time you hook up to shore power or run a generator you’re making a watt-hour deposit in your RV’s battery. But instead of a bank account that will allow you to deposit as much money as you want, your RV battery will only let you deposit a total of 1200 watt-hours, which is just 600 watt-hours of energy above its lowest 50% capacity. So you have 600 watt-hours of energy to work with in your battery bank account.

Making a withdrawal
Now it’s pretty simple to calculate just how many watt-hours you’ll be withdrawing from your battery bank account by looking at the listed wattage for each appliance and figuring out how long you’re running it. So if your daughter has a 1,200-watt hair dryer and she runs it for 10 minutes, that’s 1/6 of an hour at 1,200 watts, and 1,200 watts times 1/6 hours = 200 watt-hours of the 600 watt-hours you have in your battery. Yes, you can calculate that 10 minutes of running a 1,200-watt hair dryer just used 200/600 or 1/3 of your available battery capacity. Yikes.

Bigger/longer withdrawals
The same goes for a space heater. On the low setting it’s probably drawing something like 600 watts. So if you run it for an hour, that works out to a withdrawal of 600 watts times 1 hour = 600 watt-hours. Yikes, again. Yes, that little ceramic space heater set on low (600 watts) will use up all of the 600 watt-hours of power you have in the battery in about an hour of run time.

Now get an even larger space heater and set it to 1,200 watts, and just need to divide 600 watt-hours / 1,200 watts and you’ll see that an electric space heater on high (1,200 watts) will deplete your battery bank account in 1/2 hour or 30 minutes. Just like your kids at college using the ATM card to buy Starbucks lattes for their friends, you’ll soon drain out all your available cash (or watts) and be dead broke (have a dead battery).

Making deposits
Of course, all is not lost since, like your bank account, you just have to put in more money. That’s what the generator or shore power does through your RV’s converter. Smaller converter with a 40-amp charging output are depositing power into your battery bank at a rate of around 480 watts (because 12 volts times 40 amperes = 480 watts), so they should be able to put back 600 watt-hours of energy into your battery in a little over an hour (600/480=1.25 hours). After that first hour or so, they slow down to a trickle charge of maybe 20 watts.

If they’re a modern 3-stage charger they’ll then go into battery tender/maintenance mode, which monitors your battery bank account and deposits a few watts here and there to make up for small withdrawals like your RV’s tank monitoring systems and such. And because it’s actually looking at the balance in the battery bank account, it never over-deposits (over-charges) the battery, which can cause even more damage such as boiling out the water, warping the plates, etc.

Hope this helps you understand your battery bank account.

OK, everyone. Remember that electricity is a useful and powerful force, so we all need to pay attention to safety precautions while using it.

Let’s play safe out there….


Mike Sokol is an electrical and professional sound expert with 50+ years in the industry. His excellent book RV Electrical Safety is available at Amazon.com. For more info on Mike’s qualifications as an electrical expert, click here.

For information on how to support RVelectricity and No~Shock~Zone articles, seminars and videos, please click the I Like Mike Campaign.



If you value what you learn from RVtravel.com, would you please consider becoming a voluntary subscriber by pledging your support? Every contribution, no matter how modest, helps us serve you better. Thank youLearn more here.

Facebook Groups you might like
RVing with Dogs
RV Tech Tips
RV Advice
Towing Behind a Motorhome
RVing Over 70
. . . and the official RVtravel.com Facebook page

Winterizing your RV this season? Amazon has a wide choice of RV antifreeze.


0 0 votes
Article Rating
Subscribe to comments
Notify of

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.

Inline Feedbacks
View all comments
2 years ago

New to rv electricity problems would like to run my fusion 40″ led tv I have 200 watt solar set up to Install and a 2000/4000 watt msw inverter will this do the job

2 years ago

Hi Mike, always enjoy reading your articles here. I don’t see how I can email you directly so I’ll post a question here as we just had an issue arise last night.
I installed a manual Reliance transfer switch in our trailer. Purpose is to draw power from shore out the rear or from gen up front where gen is.
All has worked well.
Lately I installed a 1000 watt inverter. It is in mounted in front storage close to batteries.
Now I manually unplug from gen and plug into inverter. I installed the remote inverter switch inside the trailer and beside it installed a switch to turn off “converter” when we use the inverter. All has worked fine until last night.

We are boondocking and plan to sit at this location for some time so I used a long heavy cord and set the gen out aways from the trailer connecting it to the rear shore power plug.
Half way through our movie I went out to shut the gen off. Then I switched transfer switch so as to disconnect gen and connect inverter.
Inverter turned on and converter off yet we had no power??
I found his confusing. I then noted the breaker on the inverter had blown, but when I tried to reset… it would not.
Thinking about this for a bit I finally went and unplugged the gen from back of the trailer, even though doing so I thought, could not make a difference because the transfer switch in my mind had that line totally disconnected.
But it did!!??
The inverter breaker now I could reset, and all is well.

This has me puzzled.
I believe the transfer switch alternates between the hot sources but possibly the ground is common.
Is the inverter seeing the gen when it is plugged in even though it is not running and finding “fault” with this?

2 years ago

Why don’t we make the calculations even easier, and define a watt-hour as a Sokol?

RV Staff
2 years ago
Reply to  BacklotBob

Yeah, that sounds more “official,” doesn’t it? Works for me. 😀 —Diane at RVtravel.com

Randy Shrimplin
2 years ago

The other unnoticed large draw would be the fridge on inverter. If the inverter powers the fridge and it is set to Auto, it will try to run on AC which would kill a battery in no time. Also, if the fridge is 3-way allowing it to run on 12v will kill a battery almost as fast.

Margo Armstrong
2 years ago

Mike, this is the most user-friendly and well written article about battery power allocation that I have ever read. Thank you for all your expertise. I plan to link to this article in my latest book, “Condo-on-Wheels, Luxury Home Under $30,000” due out in March 2020.

Ruben Delzer
2 years ago

We like to camp in a campground in the mountains, no hookups. Several times I have talked to new campers who were upset with their new camper because the batteries died overnight. Each time I found that when they unhooked from their pickup they accidentally pulled the switch on their electric trailer brakes. Drains the batteries overnight. Just a thought.

Subscribe to our newsletter

Every Saturday and Sunday morning. Serving RVers for more than 20 years.