RV refrigerator does not work, but there are no error codes

Dear Dave,
Our Norcold DC/propane fridge stopped working but there are no fault lights to indicate the problem. We have been in F/T spot for 10 years, so nothing really changed. Weather warmed a bit during the week it failed, but it was not that hot (upper 70s–low 80s). How can I tell what part needs fixing? —EJ, 2011 Dutchmen Rainier

Dear EJ,
I believe your Norcold refrigerator runs on either 120-volt AC power or liquid propane (LP). Since you are in a full-time spot, I would assume you are plugged into a power source and running on the 120-volt mode.

Check circuit breaker

The first thing I would check is the circuit breaker in the distribution panel. This would provide 120-volt power to the outlet accessible in the outside vent area.

Refrigerator outside vent
Refrigerator outside vent

Check power to the outlet

Verify there is power to the outlet with a non-contact voltage tester or multimeter.

Ref Outlet
Refrigerator outlet

If there is no power at the outlet, you have an issue at the circuit breaker or somewhere between the breaker and the outlet.

Could be GFCI is tripped

It could also be something as simple as the GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter) button is tripped. Some have the test button on the outlet like the one pictured here. Some have a “dummy” switch and the outlet is “ganged” or connected to one in the kitchen or bathroom that might be tripped, as well. If there is power at the outlet, remove the cover of the control module and verify the fuse is good.

Typically with this type of refrigerator you have a switch on the upper control board inside that has an “Auto” and LP setting. When on the Auto setting, the refrigerator operates on 120-volt power and will automatically switch to LP if power is interrupted. When it is on the LP setting, it will only operate on the LP mode. I would suggest switching the setting to LP and see if it works.

Could be 12-volt DC power

Another issue could be 12-volt DC power to the refrigerator. Both modes need 12-volt power for the thermistor, which is the temperature sensor inside, as well as the control panel. Check the fuse in the distribution center that supplies the refrigerator and also check the inline 12-volt fuse in the control panel.


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Dave Solberg is a leading expert in the RV industry and the author of the “RV Handbook.”

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Dave Solberg
Dave Solberghttp://www.rv-seminars.com/
Dave Solberg is a leading expert in the RV industry and author of the “RV Handbook” as well as the Managing Editor of the RV Repair Club. He has been in the RV Industry since 1983 and conducts over 15 seminars at RV shows throughout the country.

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2 Comments

Neal Davis
10 months ago

Thank you for the trouble-shooting advice, Dave! Have a great day and safe travels!

SeaDog
10 months ago

When my old Norcold stopped working it was caused by a small fuse behind the cover that says caution high voltage; it was blown when the campground had an electrical spike.