Dear Dave,
Our Norcold 2118X Series refrigerator is not cooling. —Rochelle, 2021 Heartland 3995FK
Dear Rochelle,
Your Norcold 2118X Series is an 18.3 cubic foot absorption refrigerator that operates on LP or 120-volt AC power. With any appliance that has dual operations, the first step is to try running it on both modes. If it cools sufficiently on one and not the other, than the cooling unit and thermistor are working and the issue is narrowed down to the insufficient mode.
Not cooling on LP
Start by inspecting the flame to ensure it is a steady, blue flame and high enough to touch the thermocouple. A jumpy or erratic flame that has spikes of orange indicates an LP flow issue that could either be the regulator not providing enough pressure, or an obstruction in the orifice. Spiders and mud wasps can be a real pain in this area, so start by blowing out the supply tube and the burner assembly.
If it still does not cool, you will need to have a service technician check the LP pressure going to the refrigerator.
Verify your control board is getting proper DC voltage. The Norcold service manual states that DC voltage should be between 10.5 – 15.4 volts.
If you are in a high altitude location (above 5,500 ft.), the refrigerator will not perform efficiently. In that case, Norcold recommends switching to AC power. Some aftermarket service locations have been able to install a different orifice to get a better air-to-LP mixture, but then the rig doesn’t perform well in lower altitudes.
Not cooling on AC
First, verify there is 120-volt power at the outlet to the refrigerator. Low voltage (below 108) would mean the heating elements would not be running at maximum capacity. If there is 120-volt power, then the heating elements are most likely defective.
Norcold refrigerator not cooling on both AC and LP
From what I can find on the floor plan layout, your unit has the kitchen in the upper 5th wheel location and your refrigerator is not in a slide out. So, I would make sure the roof vent is not obstructed and is allowing heat to escape. Then check to make sure the thermistor is not covered in ice or frost, as this would give a false reading to the control board.
Raising the location will also place the thermistor in a warmer area, as heat rises and the unit will cycle more often. Verify the thermistor is working properly by placing it in a glass of ice water, which will bring the temperature down to 32 degrees, and then get an ohm reading. At 32 degrees, the thermistor should be between 30 – 32 K. If it reads less, it should be replaced.
Temperature monitor control on Norcold refrigerator
Your refrigerator is equipped with a temperature monitor control (TMC) that is designed to shut off the refrigerator at a certain temperature to prevent damage to the cooling unit or boiler assembly. According to the service manual, the TMC will shut down operation if any of the following exists:
- Insufficient or obstructed ventilation
- Inadequate installation in enclosure
- Heat deflector cap blocked by insulation
- Heat deflector cap jammed against flue opening
- Exceeding off-level limits
- Cooling unit blockage
The TMC will create an “Open” if there is excess temperature readings. There will be a fault code on the panel that reads “Li” “oP”. This will stop the AC or LP operation. Check your panel for any other codes, as well, during operation.
You might also enjoy this from Dave
RV refrigerator hot weather tips; install fridge fan?
Dear Dave,
I’m thinking of installing a refrigerator fan in my Dometic fridge. Is a fan in the fridge or one behind the fridge to move the air thru the vents a better choice? Thanks. —Ron, 2022 Leisure Travel Van Wonder RTB
MORE FROM DAVE ON RV REFRIGERATORS
- How to disable auto defrost on an RV residential refrigerator
- Why does RV 12-volt refrigerator noisily cycle hourly?
- Should we run the RV refrigerator and the roof A/C between trips?
- Why does the RV refrigerator work on LP but not on 120-volt power?
Dave Solberg is a leading expert in the RV industry and the author of the “RV Handbook.”
Read more from Dave here.
HAVE A QUESTION FOR DAVE?
Send your inquiries to him using the form below.
##RVDT2628
Best option for a non cooling “No-Cold Norcold” fridge? Keep the fridge box and convert it to a two compressor residential fridge as we did. Zero problems in the last three years since our JC Refrigeration conversion.
Eliminates the fire risk as well! Ask me how I know that!
I have had that problem with our 12 ft Norcold refrigerator. I have found that turning the refrigerator off for a period of time to allow all the components on the back of the refrigerator to cool down to ambient temperature then create vibrations on the tubing with LIGHT taps with a hammer. For some reason that seems to clear some sort of blockage that happens. Cooling unit was replaced under warranty once for the same reason. The refrigerator has never been operated out of level, is on the shady side of rv and all ventilation is to manufacture specs (had to make slight modifications from factory installation). Haven’t seen any repeatable cause for the refrigeration stopping.
Thank you for the informative discussion, Dave! Have a great day and safe travels!