By Cheri Sicard
In the video below, we join Ross from RV Tips & Travels, one of the winners of our 2024 RV video awards, for a discussion of RV winterizing techniques, specifically the pros and cons of using antifreeze versus compressed air.
This is the first of three videos Ross made about RV winterizing, but making the decision of whether to use antifreeze as opposed to using compressed air to make sure all water is out of the lines is a logical place to start.
Ross says the video is not about which method is right or wrong, as there is no such thing. Instead, he wanted to give viewers the pros and cons of both so that they could use the RV winterizing method that works best for their rig and circumstances. Ross personally uses the antifreeze method in his RV. However, he stresses that if done properly, both methods work.
One thing that may surprise you is that both methods require antifreeze and both methods will also require an air compressor. Why? Because even when using antifreeze, you will still need to blow out certain lines, such as the black tank flush port. Conversely, even when using the compressed air method, you still need to add antifreeze to your P-traps.
If any of this sounds confusing, it won’t be after watching Ross’ follow-up RV winterizing videos, where he shows you exactly what to do using each method.
But for now, let’s examine the advantages and disadvantages of these two RV winterizing methods.
Ross says because of the different steps in each method, it’s difficult to say which takes more time. He says the antifreeze method might be slightly quicker, but the difference is insignificant enough to not be a factor in your decision of which to use.
Antifreeze method pros
- Confidence level: Blowing out the lines with compressed air will never get 100% of the water out of your lines, so for the most confidence, use the antifreeze method.
- You can visually see when all the water has been pushed out of your plumbing system.
Antifreeze method cons
- Cost: Antifreeze costs $4 a gallon or more. Plus, you’ll use a lot of paper towels with this method. On the other hand, air is free.
- Chemicals: Some of the chemicals in antifreeze are potentially carcinogenic despite being common food additives. Ross discusses this further in the video.
- You will need to sanitize: When spring comes, expect to sanitize the system after winterizing with antifreeze.
Compressed air method pros
- Cost: Air is free, so, compressed air wins on this point.
- Natural: Air is about the only thing that doesn’t cause cancer, so there’s that. However, it’s not like you will be ingesting the antifreeze.
Compressed air method cons
- Possible damage: As you can’t blow out 100% of the water in the entire RV, some damage potential is significantly reduced but not eliminated with this method.
What is your preferred RV winterizing method and why? Be sure to leave your thoughts in the comments below.
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I use the pink stuff. As far as the black tank flush, I use a hand held pump (weed sprayer) with the appropriate fitting on the end.
I have used compressed air for my supply lines for 17+ years, wintering in temps that have hit -40 degrees, and never had a problem. I installed a Floe system in my current trailer to make winterizing even quicker and easier.
I use both methods. I blow out the water, then pump antifreeze through the lines. Once the antifreeze is in the lines, I blow it out so that my p-traps and waste tanks have antifreeze in them.
I have had our 5th wheel for four years and have always blown out the lines and poured antifreeze down all drains so that there is a little in the tanks and J-traps. Has worked perfectly, even with the lines for the washer/dryer combo.
Bottom line is use whichever you feel the most comfortable with.
I use the A/F method using propylene glycol. It does cost more though. The few dollars does not bother me.
One thing to consider when using only air, is things like the toilet flush valve and the water pump. When using air, you are pushing air after the pump and the check valve in the pump stops the air from entering the pumps valve body.
Also, unless you open the low point drains while using air, water is trapped in that tube.
When using A/F, I do open the drains as the last step.
Sanitizing should be done no matter what process you use.
Gee, I never thought of blowing the black tank flush out. Luckily, no harm has ever come to our trailer but I may do that next winter.
The article says air is free. but you will need to buy a compressor. While most small compressors have adequate PSI, not many have the volume, CFM, to push the water.
You need a minimum of 5-10 CFM and a compressor able to hold the pressure and volume during the blow out.
I’ve had 9 motorhomes over the span of 40 years and have used compressed air to winterize each one of them and never had any problems with a frozen line. I do put the pink stuff in the traps and also the holding tanks. I run the water pump as I’m blowing out the lines and never had an issue with the pumps freezing either, and it doesn’t cost anything as I need a compressor for airing up tires anyway.
Probably depends on your area, hard freeze or not.
We did both. Air on a class C we had, and now we use AF. The air, absolutely took longer. The AF, we used the built in pump (boondocking) and the outdoor shower, bath, kitchen, outdoor kitchen, took all of 15 minutes. Yes, it’s a pain, and messy, but air will not blow out ALL the water, so you can still break lines (unless you blow each and every line for 15 minutes to “dry” it out.
And we double filter all the water we drink, so no after taste anyway.
I’ve been using compressed air and it works just fine. Contrary to what some people will say, you don’t need to get 100% of the water out of the system. Frankly, you can’t unless you’re willing to pump air through every line until they’re dry, which could take days. You only need to remove as much water as you can, then leave your faucets open to prevent any pressure buildup should there be water in a line and it freezes. Here’s a video that explains the issue. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AuPO5hKdo8A
Remove water filters and make sure that the screen chamber on the water pump is empty.
You do need antifreeze in the P traps, and I put a little in the gray/black tanks, too.
Thank you, Cheri! We do neither and instead travel in our rig year ’round. Between trips we keep the RV plugged into power and the water tanks heated. Happy new year and safe travels! 🙂