Dear Dave,
How safe are ladders and how many pounds can they hold? I don’t think they’re very safe. How are they tested? —Ruben, 2017 Thor 26 Class C, Ford E-450
Dear Ruben,
Several companies have manufactured aluminum ladders for RVs, and some RV manufacturers even produced their own at one time. For example, Winnebago had an aluminum extrusion division called Creative Aluminum Products Company (CAPCO) that made various aluminum components, including ladders. These ladders were rated to support up to 250 lbs. While I’m not certain of their exact testing methods, they did have a comprehensive facility capable of both computerized and physical component testing.
Most RV manufacturers purchase ladders from OEMs
Today, most RV manufacturers purchase ladders from original equipment manufacturers (OEMs), rather than producing them in-house. Based on online listings for your 2017 Thor Class C, your rear ladder appears to be the common design that mounts to the lower back wall, extends upward with two more anchor points, and curves in a “U” shape to attach to the roof.
My wholesale parts supplier, Northern Wholesale Supply, lists Stromberg Carlson, and Surco as the main OEM’s that RV manufacturers use. Some aftermarket options are etrailer and RecPro. All four companies list weight ratings of 250 lbs., though they do not specify testing methods. RecPro offers a universal ladder rated at 250 lbs. and states it has been tested to three times that capacity.
How are ladders tested
According to the Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) site, ladders must be tested as follows:
1926.1053(a)(1)(iii)
Each fixed ladder: At least two loads of 250 pounds (114 kg) each, concentrated between any two consecutive attachments (the number and position of additional concentrated loads of 250 pounds (114 kg) each, determined from anticipated usage of the ladder, shall also be included), plus anticipated loads caused by ice buildup, winds, rigging, and impact loads resulting from the use of ladder safety devices. Each step or rung shall be capable of supporting a single concentrated load of at least 250 pounds (114 kg) applied in the middle of the step or rung. Ladders built in conformance with the applicable provisions of appendix A will be deemed to meet this requirement.
The weakest point is not the ladder
While the ladders previously listed are generally rated for at least 250 lbs., the ladder itself is usually not the primary concern when it comes to an RV installation. The more important factor is how—and what—it is attached to. Your ladder’s design, which extends above the back wall and attaches to the roof, provides a solid upper mounting point and helps transfer weight effectively with side rails to transition to the roof.
In my opinion, the weakest point is typically the lower attachments. The bottom mounting point is mounted to the back wall, which is a layered structure consisting of fiberglass, lauan plywood or Azdel, block foam, and interior paneling. Fasteners are typically screws, often with little or no metal backing for reinforcement. This design falls short of any weight rating of the ladder and can loosen or weaken and not support much weight.
How to reinforce ladder lower mounting area
For that reason, I recommend visually inspecting the lower mounting area each time before using the ladder. If in doubt, install a metal plate inside the rig if you have access. Drill holes in the plate matching the holes of the ladder mounting plate and use bolts with nuts to “sandwich” the outer mounting rings to the metal plate inside. You may also need to add an exterior plate between the back wall and the mounting plates if the back wall material has already started to deteriorate. This will help distribute the weight across a longer plane.
You might also enjoy these posts from Dave
- Can I mount a backup camera on RV’s ladder?
- Can I walk on my RV’s roof? Can I add on a ladder? Help!
- Quick RV Tech Tip: The smart way one of our readers added a ladder to RV
- Can I install a roof ladder on my RV? Where and how?
DAVE HAS ANSWERED MORE THAN 1,000 readers’ maintenance and repair questions. Read a directory here. There is so much to learn!
Dave Solberg is a leading expert in the RV industry and the author of the “RV Handbook.”
HAVE A QUESTION FOR DAVE?
Send your inquiries to him using the form below.
RVDT2882
Neither of our trailers have a factory attached ladder. And I don’t miss them (okay, on occasion I wouldn’t mind using the rungs as a clothes drying rack as most parks do not allow any kind of line).
I have used an aluminum telescoping ladder for almost a decade. It weighs around 20 pounds, fits inside a bay, is at a comfortable angle for climbing, and extends above the roofline so I have good balance getting off and back on from the roof. And it is rated for 300 pounds. As a bonus, I can access the roof at multiple locations from the ground.
Our Class A has no ladder either. We carry a telescopic A-Frame ladder in the bay and it does just fine. I shudder when I see folks going down the road with bikes, grills and totes tied to their ladders as I’m thinking like Dave that every mounting screw isn’t going into a solid frame but rather just the exterior covering of the rig. Imagine knowing your ladder is attached with toothpicks and silicone filling the stripped out holes…..Yikes!
I once saw two bicycles fall from a ladder on a Class A motorhome on a busy LA freeway in California. It caused at least a 6 car pileup with injuries. The clueless MH driver just kept driving down the road unaware of the damage he just created.
On my old MH, I had to constantly check the screws that hold the braces to the body in the MIDDLE. They come loose over time and the average owner doesn’t tighten them up. If your ladder seems a little sloppy walking up, check those screws, along with all others as Dave mentioned.
My ’25 Tiffin doesn’t come with a mounted ladder. They started using telescoping ladders, which seem stronger. The downside is, you have to carry it in your storage area!
The one thing not mentioned was the angle of climb. You’re climbing straight up and, if you slip, you’re falling down not into the ladder. I can’t remember the formula of how far out for every foot of height but it’s taught in fire schools. They have attachable out-riggers for the base of the ladder for stability.
Any RV ladder rated at 250 pounds is lucky to hold HALF that weight! I strongly believe the ones permanently attached are only a cheap selling point (“And look, it even has a ladder!”). The ONLY permanent ladder I would trust is a welded aluminum or steel ladder bolted to the frame or bumper and roof.
Speaking of things falling off of the RV, we have lost at least 3 RV shrouds over the years. I was surprised to find them held onto thin sheet metal by very short mushroom screws that go through the edge of the fiberglass shroud, just 2 screws in the front and one on each side. Each time, it was with highway driving and I never knew it when it happened. The caps and awnings on our current MH essentially form a parapet around the roof blocking the ability to even notice the missing shroud from the ground. The shroud that hadn’t come off was similarly attached. That and the new one were subsequently better secured with #8 3/4″ hex washer head sheet metal screws, 4 on the front and both sides.